De’Longhi SpA will acquire the stake from parent company De’Longhi Industrial, as well as from other minority shareholders. Together with La Marzocco and Eversys (which De’Longhi fully acquired in May 2021), the Italian small appliance manufacturer will create a powerhouse global coffee equipment hub.

Although La Marzocco will continue to operate independently, De’Longhi SpA will control over 61% of the new business. And there is no doubt the company is gearing up to capitalise on the renowned espresso equipment manufacturer’s branding as much as possible.

So with acquisitions becoming more and more common in the industry, are they the end goal for successful specialty coffee brands? And if so, is this truly beneficial to the wider sector?

I spoke to Benjamin Hohlmann, founder of Kaffeemacher, to find out more.

You may also like our article on why Chobani’s acquisition of La Colombe shows roasters can’t be complacent about RTD coffee.

Behind the acquisition: The history of De’Longhi and La Marzocco

Both De’Longhi and La Marzocco are hugely successful Italian brands, but their relationship extends beyond this. In April 2021, De’Longhi Industrial purchased an additional 33.34% stake in La Marzocco International – increasing its shares to 62.6%.

The move received some criticism from the coffee industry. Shortly after, La Marzocco CEO Guido Bernardinelli publicly stated that only De’Longhi Industrial had shares in the company. Additionally, he specifically mentioned that De’Longhi SpA (the division of the group which manufactures and sells home kitchen and coffee appliances) did not – in a possible attempt to retain La Marzocco’s premium brand identity.

However, De’Longhi Industrial’s stake in the espresso machine company will now reduce to 26.6% as De’Longhi SpA will acquire more than 61% of shares in the first quarter of 2024. La Marzocco International minority stakeholders’ shares will also drop from 37.4% to 12%.

So this means the NewCo will include:

• Small domestic appliance manufacturer De’Longhi SpA, which specialises in coffee and food preparation equipment
• Premium home and commercial espresso machine and grinder brand La Marzocco 
• Swiss superautomatic coffee machine company Eversys – which De’Longhi SpA fully owns
  • All three companies will continue to operate independently

La Marzocco: a “cult” brand

Although De’Longhi is one of the leading entry-level domestic coffee appliance manufacturers, it doesn’t command quite as much respect as La Marzocco – especially in specialty coffee.

Founded in 1927 by the Bambi brothers, the company was one of the first to patent both a horizontal and a dual espresso machine boiler in the mid-1900s. And over the past few decades, La Marzocco has developed some of the most well-known machines in the industry, including:

• The semi-automatic dual-boiler GS in 1970
• The redesigned GS2 in 1982, which was used in Starbucks stores for many years
• In 1990, the company launched the Linea Classic – which became one of its most recognisable machines
• The Linea PB in 2013, which allowed the user to control extraction time and yields
• The Strada AV – the “barista’s espresso machine”
• In 2015, La Marzocco developed the Linea Mini – a dual-boiler home machine with thermal stability technology

Benjamin Hohlmann is the founder of Swiss company Kaffeemacher. He is also a Q-grader, a German Cup Tasters Champion, a Swiss Brewers Cup Champion, and runs a coffee YouTube channel.

“La Marzocco is a cult brand,” he says. “It’s highly regarded in the specialty coffee community and its machines are found in many coffee shops.”

The company’s position as one of the leading espresso machine manufacturers also stemmed from its sponsorship of the World Barista Championship from 2000 to 2008 – helping to establish the pioneering competition.

“La Marzocco is where it is today because baristas worldwide identify with its brand, in stark contrast to De’Longhi,” Benjamin adds. “De’Longhi is known for price-accessible, ‘transition’ coffee equipment which it has built its brand on.”

Could this stifle coffee equipment innovation – or drive it even further?

Considering the history between the two companies, the acquisition was certainly foreseeable. But there are other obvious reasons – including the expertise that De’Longhi and La Marzocco (and Eversys) bring to the table.

Arguably, De’Longhi will benefit the most. The company experienced a 2% decline in full-year 2022 revenue, citing a “tough geopolitical” environment in Europe and “unfavourable inflation dynamics” affecting consumers’ disposable income. 

Its coffee equipment sales that same year, however, were strong – no doubt driven by the brand’s acquisition of Eversys in 2021 and an ad campaign featuring brand ambassador Brad Pitt. So leveraging La Marzocco’s wealth of knowledge and strong brand identity is sure to add to this.

“For B2B customers, a company salesperson can now offer a premium espresso machine and a high-quality super-automatic coffee machine – depending on which product is right for them,” Benjamin says.

La Marzocco, on the other hand, also stands to gain from the business move.

“The merger between Eversys and De’Longhi is huge, and also offers potential for the further development of La Marzocco’s products,” Benjamin tells me. “Eversys has succeeded in developing some of the best super-automatic coffee machines on the market.

“So, are we going to see increasing automation with La Marzocco espresso machines in the future? It’s not unlikely,” he adds.

However, while the three companies are clearly going to leverage one another’s knowledge and brand power, what does the acquisition mean for the wider coffee equipment market?

Well, considering that La Marzocco and Marco Beverage Systems recently surrendered intellectual property rights to their integrated scale technology, other companies can utilise this to develop their own products. So the push for innovation could certainly continue – if De’Longhi permits, of course.

Another sign that acquisitions are inevitable?

Every year, the number of acquisitions in the coffee industry continues to grow – and is only going to continue. Whether you think they truly benefit specialty coffee businesses or not, acquisitions are a huge part of how the industry will evolve and scale into the future.

This then raises questions, however, about how smaller regional businesses can remain profitable, and whether successful brands “need” to be acquired to maintain their place in the market.

“When larger companies acquire smaller ones, there is always the question of whether values and goals will remain the same after the smaller company is absorbed,” Benjamin explains. “I would like to see more smaller companies look towards new solutions.

“Baristas identify with the La Marzocco brand,” he adds. “With this in mind, there should have been transparent communication about ownership and shares two years ago. This could lead fewer people to resonate with the core brand in the future.”

De’Longhi’s acquisition of La Marzocco is a huge milestone for the coffee equipment market, and is sure to shake up the sector for the ensuing years. And with Eversys also a part of the new subsidiary, the three companies could become a force to be reckoned with.

What this means for the wider coffee sector, however, remains to be seen. In an ideal world, innovation in coffee equipment will continue to thrive.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why acquisitions are becoming more common in the coffee industry.

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Over the ensuing decades, we have come to define specialty coffee even more rigorously – largely using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point quality scale.

Our definitions, however, are not just technical. More holistic terms like “sustainable”, “traceable”, “transparent”, and “direct trade” are ubiquitous with specialty coffee, yet it’s challenging to pinpoint what these terms actually mean in the wider context of the supply chain.

Additionally, it’s always important to remember how far the industry has come – as well as to question what the future holds – and ask if these terms are still as relevant and applicable today as they were several years ago.

To find out, I spoke to Tony Dreyfuss, co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee, Rohan Kuriyan, a producer at Balanoor Plantations, and Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver, founder of the Happy Coffee Network.

You may also like our article exploring the language of specialty coffee.

Technical vs holistic definitions of specialty coffee

There is a language of specialty coffee that many of us easily recognise. Terms like “third wave”, “craft”, “artisan”, and “single origin” resonate with coffee consumers around the world.

Some of these terms, however, are becoming less and less relevant. For example, “craft” and “artisan” – which we associate with a more hands-on approach – are arguably less applicable when automation is playing such a prevalent role in the industry. 

But to objectively define specialty coffee, the majority of industry professionals use the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale. Once cupped, if a coffee scores 80 points or above, it is classified as specialty grade. 

There are also varying degrees of quality between 80 and 100 points:

• Coffee which scores 80 to 84.99 is “Very good”
• Scores of 85 to 89.99 are considered “Excellent”
• Coffee scoring from 90 to 100 points are graded “Outstanding”

The number of defects is also important when objectively defining specialty coffee. Within a 350g sample of green coffee, there must be no more than five defects.

Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver is the 2019 World AeroPress Champion, a Dutch Barista Champion, and an authorised SCA trainer. She explains that although cup scores are important, they aren’t always an indicator of whether a coffee is objectively “good” or “bad”.

“I have worked at a roastery for ten years and we didn’t buy coffee based on cup scores alone,” she says. “We sometimes bought coffees that were less than 80 points, and I tasted so many amazing coffees that weren’t specialty grade. 

“Not crossing the 80-point threshold doesn’t make a coffee bad or inferior,” she adds. “It won’t be specialty, but it can still be good coffee.”

The increasing role of sustainability in defining specialty coffee

Over the past few years, sustainability, traceability, and transparency have all become increasingly important for specialty coffee consumers. In turn, these terms have helped to redefine specialty coffee in more broader ways – and are very much still relevant today.

While we can easily define these terms on their own, their relationship to specialty coffee can be less straightforward.

Tony Dreyfuss is the co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee – a roaster in Chicago, Illinois, US.

“A lot of factors go into sustainability,” he tells me. “There is economic sustainability for both producers and the overall market, as well as ecological sustainability in terms of minimising harm to the land, environment, natural resources, and people.

“For a coffee to be specialty grade, it is extremely important for it to be produced sustainably,” he adds.

Social sustainability is also key. With more consumers (especially younger generations) choosing to buy from socially responsible brands, supply chain actors and stakeholders are looking for more ways to benefit the industry as a whole. These can vary from encouraging waste reduction in coffee shops to improving access to clean water in producing communities, for example.

Rohan Kuriyan is a coffee producer at Balanoor Plantations in India, which focuses heavily on sustainability.

“For producers, specialty coffee comes full circle – including looking after our staff and workers, the environment, our entire farm ecosystem, and the coffee we harvest,” he says. “All these intricacies and factors put together help define specialty coffee, in my opinion.

“Without sustainability, it would be nearly impossible for us to survive,” he adds. “Being economically sustainable through practices like multi-cropping and implementing new farming methods are indispensable for the future.”

The push to make specialty coffee more inclusive, approachable, and accessible

As part of its marketing and branding, specialty coffee is inherently quite exclusive, and therefore comes with a higher price tag. In an effort to scale the market, however, there has been a push to make specialty coffee more accessible and approachable.

With entry barriers like price, equipment, and knowledge, it’s more than understandable that specialty coffee isn’t affordable for many people. Moreover, the sometimes judgemental mentality of the sector – such as attitudes towards dark roasts and adding milk and sugar to filter coffee – means some consumers may not feel that specialty coffee is for them.

“Coffee needs to be simplified – you don’t need to be an expert to experience and understand good coffee,” Rohan says. “Consumers can just focus on their experience without having to undergo thorough, in-depth education about coffee. We want everyone to get a taste of specialty coffee that producers work so hard to grow.”

Ultimately, making specialty coffee more inclusive would be, in a way, an attempt to change its definition. Because it’s marketed as a premium product – which is also an important part of the industry’s ethos and values, especially with paying producers fairly – specialty coffee will always remain somewhat exclusionary. 

Democratising and simplifying specialty coffee, however, is becoming increasingly relevant to ensuring the market continues to grow.

“Specialty is just a grade of coffee, it shouldn’t define who can consume it,” Tony tells me. “Having a mark or a symbol on packaging to indicate that it’s specialty coffee could be helpful, not just in educating consumers but also to enable more people to purchase and enjoy a good cup of coffee.

“That way, customers can see the mark on the bag and know that the beans they’re buying have been produced sustainably, are excellent quality, and are certified specialty grade,” he adds.

So what might the future hold?

The specialty coffee industry is ever-evolving, so ensuring the language we use to describe it stays relevant is important. In fact, even objective definitions seem to be broadening and changing to become less rigid.

In its 2021 white paper entitled Towards a Definition of Specialty Coffee: Building an Understanding Based on Attributes, the SCA explored a new framework of how to define specialty coffee:

“We can conceive the specialty-commodity relationship not as a duality but as a continuum, with coffees becoming more special as they exhibit more distinctive attributes,” the paper states. “Through this lens, it is easier to identify specialty coffee by simply assessing its attributes – both intrinsic (absence of defects, flavour attributes, bean size, etc.) and extrinsic (origin, producer, agricultural style, etc.).

“This framework makes obvious the importance of traceability and transparency since these programmes make more extrinsic attributes a part of the product,” it continues. “An untraceable coffee must be evaluated on its intrinsic attributes alone, whereas a transparently traceable coffee may have dozens of extrinsic attributes on top of the intrinsic ones, potentially making the coffee much more valuable in the marketplace.”

In April 2023, we then saw this new framework put into practice as the SCA officially launched its Coffee Value Assessment. Essentially, the new system reduces the intersubjectivity of cupping and allows industry professionals to gather much more information about a specific coffee.

Interestingly, alongside assessing its physical, affective (the cupper’s personal opinion on coffee quality based on the 100-point scale), and descriptive characteristics, cupping scores can also be based on extrinsic factors. These include “identity”, certification, and origin – so sustainability and traceability could become increasingly relevant to how we define specialty coffee.

Creating broader definitions – but not too broad

It’s evident that the industry is changing the definition of specialty coffee to become more inclusive and far reaching. But we still need to keep in mind that objective definitions are essential, too.

“The definition of specialty coffee must broaden to include sustainability, but also remain narrow enough that we’re not defining a ‘feeling’,” Tony explains. “It also needs to expand to include the terms and attributes that come with newer and more innovative processing methods.”

Wendelien, meanwhile, believes that opening up specialty coffee to more people will further help to define it.

“The power of making an impact lies with the masses,” she concludes. “The more we educate people about specialty coffee, the more they become aware of what went into producing it and what it’s worth.”

To progress and build a thriving coffee industry for the future, we need to continuously clarify and refine what we mean when we say “specialty”.

The definition must signify the efforts of everyone in the value chain, and only then will be truly relevant. But one thing is for sure: the term “specialty coffee” has evolved significantly over the past few decades – and it may have even further to go.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on if we need to redefine specialty coffee.

Photo credits: Balanoor Plantations

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Alongside the rise of specialty coffee has been a preference for lighter roast profiles. And with this shift has also been a wave of more novel and innovative taste and mouthfeel descriptors – including “crème brûlée”, “structured”, and “melted chocolate ice cream”. 

These flavour notes are certainly exciting, and are sure to spark a lot of interest from both seasoned and new specialty coffee drinkers. At the same time, however, it’s crucial that tasting notes remain accurate – or roasters could risk losing the loyalty and trust of their customers.

To learn more, I spoke to Dakota Graff, Director of Coffee and green buyer at Onyx Coffee Lab, and Manny Carrera, owner of Argyle Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article on whether tasting notes for specialty coffee are going too far.

Tasting notes serve an important purpose

As an industry, we often assess and score coffee based on the balance of five key attributes. These are:

• Acidity
• Sweetness
• Bitterness
• Mouthfeel (or body)
• Aftertaste
  • We sometimes talk about umami (a Japanese word that is often used to describe savoury flavours in food, as well as full-bodied textures) characteristics in coffee, too

Additionally, though, we also use specific flavour notes to describe what we experience when drinking coffee. In 2017, World Coffee Research published the second edition of its Sensory Lexicon, which formally identifies 110 flavour, aroma, and texture attributes in coffee – ranging from chocolate and brown sugar to pineapple and fermented.

Tasting notes are usually selected by roasters and green buyers during cuppings, and are printed on the majority of specialty coffee packaging.

The idea behind this is to create reference points to describe coffee flavour and aroma. This is so that roasters can communicate to consumers how a particular coffee tastes.

In turn, flavour notes can serve two important purposes: reassuring the consumer that they will know what to expect and to help introduce new people to specialty coffee. In both cases, the consumer can enjoy their drinking experience even more.

The subjectivity of tasting notes

Although they are certainly useful, flavour notes are also subjective and largely based on the opinions of a small number of coffee professionals. For example, while one person may taste strawberry jam in their cup, another may taste fresh strawberries – and they could both be “right”. Ultimately, what you taste is dependent on your palate and the foods and cuisines you have been exposed to.

Moreover, the resources we use to identify tasting notes, like the Specialty Coffee Association Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel, are more relevant for people in consuming countries such as Europe and North America). And even with the development of localised Flavor Wheels in places like Taiwan and Indonesia, for example, criticisms still remain about the lack of inclusivity with flavour notes in specialty coffee.

Manny Carrera is the founder, owner, and head roaster at Argyle Coffee Roasters in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, US.

“We never really wanted to put flavour descriptors on our bags because we felt it would alienate some customers,” he says. “People just felt terrible when they weren’t able to pick up baker’s chocolate or pineapple acidity, so we chose not to print them on our packaging.”

Instead, Manny explains that Argyle prints “what we taste” on their bags to acknowledge the subjectivity of coffee flavour notes. He believes this language provides consumers with more room to identify their own tasting notes with less influence from roasters.

The rise of unconventional flavour notes

It’s been hard to ignore the more and more unusual and unorthodox flavours appearing on specialty coffee packaging. Tasting notes such as melted chocolate ice cream, banana pudding, crème brûlée, and orange creamsicle have been referenced by certain roasters, as well as World Coffee Championship competitors. While these descriptors can certainly be exciting and help to draw people in, they also have the potential to alienate certain consumers.

“Tasting notes should be about welcoming people further into specialty coffee,” Manny tells me. “I think it’s possible for roasters to take flavour notes too far in an attempt to stand out.”

Similar to the “what we taste” concept, Manny explains that he often refers to coffees using flavour descriptors like “traditional”, “modern”, or “exotic” to better explain sensory characteristics to less experienced consumers.

Acknowledging the importance of subjectivity

More than 800 volatile aromatic compounds have been found in coffee, which creates a somewhat endless number of possibilities when it comes to identifying flavour. Developing your palate and having more exposure to a wide range of different foods and cuisines certainly helps with this.

Dakota Graff works at pioneering roaster Onyx Coffee Lab in northwest Arkansas, US.

“We don’t taste without referring to other benchmarks or references, and so unfortunately, our coffee flavour lexicon is complex, but also limited to personal experience,” he says. “[There are always] extra opinions when it comes to flavour.”

Improving accuracy while maintaining interest

One way that Dakota believes roasters could better communicate tasting notes – while also acknowledging personal preferences – is to follow in the footsteps of other craft beverage industries such as wine and beer. 

For example, a consumer buying beer first decides on the type of beer they would like to drink, and several factors may influence their decision. They may want to buy sour beer or IPAs in the warmer months, and opt for stout and ale in the colder seasons, for instance.

It’s also likely that the consumer will already have expectations about what each type of beer will taste like, largely based on region or method of production.

In line with this, Dakota emphasises that educating consumers (especially those who are new to specialty coffee) about how origin, processing methods, and roast profiles can impact coffee flavour could help to improve accuracy of descriptors – and thereby enhance the customer experience.

Ultimately, when identifying and selecting tasting notes, a better approach for roasters could be to develop a more thorough understanding of the preferences of their consumers in conjunction with the flavours they are tasting.

Flavour notes on coffee bags are important for both roasters and consumers, and even producers. And while tasting notes certainly need to draw consumers in, roasters also have to ensure descriptors are accurate and balanced.

If not, roasters risk losing consumer trust and loyalty – something which many cannot afford to do.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how producers and roasters can develop specific flavour profiles for coffee.

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Although some Geshas still fetch eye-watering prices – like the 96.5 point washed Carmen Estate Gesha which sold for US $10,005/kg at the 2023 Best of Panama auction – it’s not uncommon to see the variety served in more high-end coffee shops around the world. Technically, Gesha is no longer an “ultra-rare” coffee.

In more recent years, specialty coffee roasters and competitors alike have started looking elsewhere for more exclusive coffees – think Wush Wush, Sidra, eugenioides, and Pink Bourbon, to name a few.

So why do these varieties (or species) start to become more popular? And why do some of them eventually start to fade into the background?

To find out, I spoke to James Fairbrass, green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US.

You may also like our article questioning why some roasters are willing to spend more than US $10,000 per kg on Gesha.

Gesha: a variety for the ages?

Many of us know the story of Gesha – largely considered the first ultra-rare coffee variety. First found in the Gesha region of Ethiopia in the 1930s, the seeds were eventually transported to research centres in Kenya and Tanzania – where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha”. 

It was during the 1950s that CATIE (the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre) in Costa Rica acquired Gesha seeds. By the 1960s, Don Francisco Serracín of Don Pachi Estate had planted the variety in the western parts of the Boquete region of Panama.

Over the course of the next four decades, more and more Panamanian producers planted Gesha, but it took some time for the industry to fully recognise its excellent quality potential and desirable sensory profile.

The breakthrough moment came at the 2004 Best of Panama auction when Hacienda La Esmeralda set a then-world record of US $21 for the highest amount paid for a pound of coffee. 

In the years since, it’s a huge understatement to say this record has been broken, as we have seen buyers pay increasingly more for Gesha at a number of auctions:

• Panama’s Ninety Plus sold an undisclosed micro lot for US $10,000/kg (or US $4,535/lb) at its own private 2019 auction
• At the 2022 Lamastus Family Estates auction, a honey processed Gesha produced by Elida Estate sold for an unbelievable US $6,034/lb. This equates to more than US $12,068/kg – by far the most expensive coffee in the world
• The highest bid at the 2023 Best of Panama auction was US $10,005/kg for a washed Gesha. In total 1,250kg of coffee received US $1,085,275, which set a new record for the Best of Panama auction

Why did it become so popular?

Once you taste Gesha, it’s easy to understand why it has become one of the most sought-after exclusive varieties. Its uniquely floral flavours and tea-like body make it one of the most exceptional coffees available on the market. Additionally, Geshas also often receive 90 points or above when scored using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale.

As a result, many baristas and coffee professionals have opted for Gesha at some of the most prestigious coffee competitions over the past two decades, including the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup.

Events such as these often have a direct influence on trends in the wider specialty coffee industry. As such, despite remaining relatively expensive, it’s become more common to see Gesha on the bar or retail shelves in some of the world’s more high-end coffee shops.

But has its popularity waned? 

We always see Gesha on stage at high-level coffee competitions. But its popularity at these events has noticeably dipped in recent years, particularly at the 2021 World Barista Championship and Brewers Cup where competitors were opting for even more exclusive varieties or species.

James Fairbrass is a green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US – a pioneering roaster which specifically focuses on more high-end coffees. 

He emphasises that when questioning whether Gesha has become less popular, looking exclusively at competitions doesn’t always provide us with the full picture.

“To look at barista competitions as an indicator for what’s popular in specialty coffee is quite a narrow view of the industry as a whole,” he tells me. “It’s a niche within a niche.”

James continues that in his experience, demand is actually higher than ever – with both roasters and consumers willing to pay more. 

“Just look at the vast majority of coffee auctions, from Cup of Excellence, to Best of Panama, to single producer private auctions,” he says. “The highest scoring – and often highest valued – coffees are usually Geshas.

“If the popularity of Gesha was waning, I’d argue that we would also see a decline in the amount of money that roasters around the world are willing to pay – and we’re simply not seeing that,” he adds.

The emergence of other ultra-rare varieties (and species)

Given that Gesha has become more widely available in specialty coffee shops in recent years, it’s fair to say we can’t really refer to it as an “ultra-rare” variety anymore.

We can, however, look at competition trends as an indication of which other exclusive varieties (or even species) could be on the rise.

Eugenioides

At the 2021 World Coffee Championships, this “forgotten” coffee species very much had the spotlight. Coffea eugenioides is a parent species of arabica, and is believed to have originated from east Africa.

Both the 2021 World Barista Champion (Diego Campos) and World Brewers Cup winner (Matt Winton) used eugenioides in their routines, with several other competitors also using it that same year. And there’s a reason for this: the species has a fascinating sensory profile – with strong notes of tropical fruit, high levels of sweetness, and a silky mouthfeel.

Although interest in eugenioides certainly remains, demand is still very low. Moreover, growing this species is especially challenging and yields are relatively small.

Sidra

Another variety that has quickly gained more popularity is Sidra. In 2019, Jooyeon Jeon used a Sidra from La Palma y el Tucán in her winning WBC routine. Likewise, Cole Torode – who placed third – used the exact same coffee.

Three years later, Sidra also won the World Barista Championship when Australian competitor Anthony Douglas used it in his routine.

The exact origins of Sidra are somewhat unknown. Many believe, however, that the variety originates from the Pichincha province in Ecuador. Claims about its origin vary from that it’s genetically similar to Ethiopian heirloom varieties to that it is the result of crossbreeding Typica with Bourbon.

But again, as with other more exclusive varieties and species, scaling production of Sidra is challenging – largely because it requires full-shade conditions and is highly susceptible to certain pests and diseases.

Pink Bourbon

During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety – including the winner, Boram Um. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile (similar to Panamanian and Ethiopian coffees), interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about its origins. Owner of Aromas del Sur Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia is often credited for helping to discover the variety. Recent research indicates Pink Bourbon is genetically linked to Ethiopian landrace varieties, but this study has not yet been scientifically verified.

The potential for more producers to grow Pink Bourbon is currently largely limited to Colombia, which means it will most likely take some time for production to scale.

Wush Wush

Originating from the Wushwush region of Ethiopia, the Wush Wush variety can now also be found in Colombia. With a fairly varied range of flavour notes (including blueberries, vanilla, maple, and lavender), this coffee became particularly popular a couple of years ago.

Proud Mary Coffee, meanwhile, has been buying Wush Wush from Nancy and Oscar Maca at Finca El Zafiro in Colombia since 2016.

“If people are still sleeping on Wush Wush, they need to wake up – it’s delicious!” James says.

In fact, Proud Mary sometimes sells Wush Wush as part of its “deluxe” range.

“We often see these coffees purchased for competitions or for special events, which is great, but it inevitably means that very few people actually get the opportunity to taste them,” he adds. “To sell more, we need to get more customers to taste them and realise that they are special coffees. And that’s where the deluxe menus in our cafés have had a huge impact.”

Laurina

In 2018, MAME Coffee co-founder Emi Fukahori used an anaerobically fermented Laurina for her winning World Brewers Cup routine. In partnership with Daterra (which produced the coffee), Emi helped to re-introduce specialty coffee to one of the most exciting varieties in some years.

As well as having a desirable flavour profile (including flavour notes of melon and citrus fruits), Laurina is also naturally low in caffeine. In turn, the variety has been a unique selling point for many roasters looking to offer higher-quality alternatives to decaf coffee. 

Laurina has definitely become more popular in recent years, so it’s not exactly “ultra-rare” in comparison to other varieties and species. But it’s still difficult to grow at scale – mostly because it contains less caffeine, which is a natural pest repellant.

Are ultra-rare varieties destined to rise and fall?

Competitions will always continue to have an impact on which rare varieties and species become popular in the wider specialty coffee sector. And with competitors always looking for the “best” coffee to use during their routines, it’s becoming more important for them to rediscover more unique coffees.

“As an industry, we’re always searching for something new and exciting,” James says. “Innovation has always been a part of the specialty coffee industry. From what we’re seeing, the varieties that people are looking to experience are a part of that mindset, too.”

However, considering that Gesha has seemingly fallen out of favour with competitors, is it inevitable that other varieties will face the same fate?

For most of these “rediscovered” coffees, there is still a lot of potential for them to remain in the spotlight. What’s more, outside of competitions, it’s likely that they will stay popular for even longer – but production of these coffees will remain low for the foreseeable future.

Based on James’ experience at Proud Mary Coffee, demand for Gesha continues to be high – so it’s possible that the same will apply to other ultra-rare varieties.

“We’re selling more Gesha than we ever have before,” he asserts. “Both as pour overs in our coffee shops and through our e-commerce platforms.” 

The impact of experimental processing methods

In conjunction with a growing interest in more exclusive and ultra-rare coffees, there has been a rise in more experimental and advanced processing techniques. These methods can have a huge impact on flavour and mouthfeel, and open up new possibilities when it comes to experiencing coffee.

They can, however, often mask the innate characteristics of coffee, which can pose challenges when it comes to more delicate varieties and species.

“As an industry, we have spent the better part of the last 25 years telling our customers that origin, variety, terroir, and processing are all important – that these are the things that make coffee special,” James explains. “With the rise in popularity of experimental processing, I worry that we’re going to lose a lot of that.”

The range of ultra-rare and exclusive coffees is continuing to grow. And if Best of Panama prices are anything to go by, some roasters are still willing to pay a premium to secure them. 

“We’re going to continue buying as much deluxe, rare, and exotic coffees as we can, and we’ll find ways to sell them,” James concludes.

But whether these varieties and species will retain their levels of popularity – or eventually begin to fade – remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring whether coffee competitions are moving away from Gesha.

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Here are this week’s coffee news stories.

The word of the week is acquisition.

Mon, 18 Dec

• Mill City Roasters launches RoastPATH specialty coffee roasting software. The software aims to offer roasters high level collaboration with peers through exportable roast profiles, real-time “live roast” sharing, greens data, and peer-reviewed forum discussions.

• Ralph’s Coffee opens first permanent café in Paris, France. The Paris store is the fourth international café opened by luxury fashion brand Ralph Lauren. It previously operated a pop-up store at the same location in 2019 and will expand into the UAE in January 2024.

• Third Wave Water launches Low Acid Profile coffee water solution. The manufacturer says the solution reduces acidity by up to 300% and is rich in magnesium for reduced bitterness. Users simply need to add it to distilled or reverse osmosis water and shake.

• Tchibo appoints Erik Hofstädter as new CEO. The German coffee roaster and retailer says Hofstädter has previously held roles Coca-Cola, Red Bull, and Lindt & Sprüngli and will “vigorously drive forward the initiated expansion of the business”.

• National Yemen Coffee Auction scheduled for 11 January 2024. The auction features 17 Yemeni coffee lots from several regions, including an anaerobic fermented Ja’adi produced by Mukhtar Hafaz-Allah Ahmed, which received a score of 91 points. Auction samples are available now.

• Compose Coffee announces K-pop star Kim Taehyung as new brand ambassador. The South Korean coffee chain will launch various promotional media featuring Kim, also known as V, a member of K-pop boyband BTS. Compose Coffee is currently the fourth largest branded coffee chain in the country.

• Natural SL-28 receives 91.70 points at Los Rodriguez Collection Nº2 Private Collection Auction. The coffee, which topped the Exotics category, was produced at the El Fuerte farm in Samaipata, Bolivia. The winner of the Geisha Washed category received 91.20 points, while the winner of the Geisha Natural category received 91.50 points. The auction will take place on 6 February 2024.

Tue, 19 Dec

• Nominations process opens for 2024 SCA Sustainability Awards. The SCA is now welcoming all nominations for the awards, which recognises non-profit organisations that “advance sustainability in the coffee sector while inspiring others to design and initiate similar endeavours innovations”.

• Starbucks CEO says people boycotting the company over Gaza genocide have been “influenced by misrepresentation”. In a letter to employees, CEO Laxman Narasimhan said that people protesting against the company’s stance on the Israel-Hamas war have been “influenced by misrepresentation on social media” as it continues to face pressure from boycotts.

• Importers are turning away from African coffee as EU prepares to implement deforestation laws. Reuters reports that coffee importers in the EU are already scaling back purchases from African farmers, citing the cost and difficulty of complying with the EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR).

• Metric and We Will Destroy You collaborate on Artists Series limited coffee release. The series aims to “bridge the gap” between music and coffee, featuring collaborations with several artists. The first release is a washed El Rojo Geisha from northern Peru.

• Report concludes climate change is making coffee more bitter and expensive. According to Bloomberg, increasingly erratic weather is leading to more demand for robusta coffee. However, research warns that the world could lose nearly half of its robusta production capabilities by 2040.

• Cotti Coffee expands into Thailand and Malaysia. The Chinese coffee chain has opened stores in Bangkok, Thailand and Johor Bahru, Malaysia, marking its seventh and eights markets outside of China, respectively.

• SCA announces new Spain Chapter and Portugal Chapter coordinators. The SCA has announced the newly-elected members of both committees:
  • Spain:
    • National Coordinator: Ricardo Oteros
    • Community Coordinator: Claudia Sans Witty
    • Education Coordinator: Maria Jose Garcia Martinez
    • Judges Coordinator: Marcos Zoya
    • Marketing & Communications Coordinator: Pablo Caballero Agudo
    • Events Coordinator: Sandra Lahuerta
  • Portugal:
    • National Coordinator: Sofia Ferraz
    • Community Coordinator: Paulo Assuncao
    • Education Coordinator: Felipe Orioli
    • Judges Coordinator: Manuel Tiago Pereira
    • Marketing & Communications Coordinator: Shannon Lawn
    • Events Coordinator: Elizaveta Maximova

• Lavazza and Paris Baguette launch new signature coffee blend. The Paris Baguette Blend is the chain’s first-ever packaged coffee available for in-café purchase. The company describes the blend as robust and full-bodied with sweet, chocolatey undertones.

Wed, 20 Dec

• Ricardo Pereira steps down as Ally Coffee chief operating officer. Pereira has spent 11 years at Ally Coffee, leading growth across sourcing, sales, marketing, quality control, and education. The company thanked him for his “immense contributions” to making Ally a global leader in specialty coffee.

• Submissions open for World of Coffee Copenhagen 2024 lecture and workshop proposals. World of Coffee is calling on prospective presenters to submit their proposals for lectures and workshops at World of Coffee Copenhagen 2024. The deadline is 24 January.

• Labour coalition hopes to “reset” Starbucks’ relationship with its employees. The Strategic Organizing Center, a shareholder of Starbucks, says it will only be able to judge Starbucks’ commitment to improving employee relations “based on what the current Board does, not what it says”. The coalition has nominated three candidates to the Starbucks board of directors.

• Thai company allegedly claims US $2.86 billion in compensation from Luckin Coffee. Following the Chinese chain’s failed lawsuit against 50R Group, the Thai operator of Luckin outlets has reportedly claimed US $2.86 billion in financial losses from Luckin Coffee. Luckin notes that the claim has yet to be verified.

• Saudi Ministry of Culture approves grants for 20 coffee research projects. The initiative will fund projects from Saudi Arabia and abroad, aiming to encourage research that focuses on Saudi coffee’s role in the country’s cultural heritage.

• Ugandan coffee exports fell by 4.8% in November. The Uganda Coffee Development Authority says heavy rains delayed harvesting and disrupted drying, causing exports to fall by 4.8% year-on-year. Uganda remains Africa’s second-largest coffee exporter.

• Monster Energy set to launch RTD coffee in the UK. According to reports, the company has applied to trademark the term “Java Killer Brew” in the UK ahead of the anticipated launch of its ready-to-drink coffee in the country.

Thu, 21 Dec

• Weber Workshops unveils BIRD no-bypass coffee brewer. The company says the brewer is not espresso, french press, or pour-over, instead functioning as a “no-bypass brewer”. It generates piston-actuated vacuum pressure to brew coffee in a glass carafe, creating a novel new brewing method that the company says “helps any barista achieve a delicious, repeatable, and enjoyable brew”.

• Ethiopian coffee production forecast lowered by 12%. The USDA says dry conditions led to lower yields in Ethiopia in the marketing year ended September, with production falling short of previous estimates by 1 million 60kg bags of green coffee.

• KFC China plans to scale up KCOFFEE expansion in 2024. KFC China currently offers the premium coffee option at nearly all of its 10,000 stores. It now aims to open around 100 standalone KCOFFEE outlets in 2024 and expects to achieve 30% sales growth by the end of 2023.

• Cup of Excellence to host Origin immersion Program: El Salvador in 2024. The course, taught by CoE Head Judge Luis Rodríguez, will take place at the Instituto Salvadoreño Del Café in San Salvador from 26 February to 1 March 2024. Attendees will learn about a range of topics, including cupping and scoring coffee and the history of the Salvadoran coffee industry.

• Ludlow Coffee Group rebrands Coffee Planet Roastery as Jigsaw Coffee Company. Ludlow says the change represents a “pivotal shift” in its global roasting capabilities. Jigsaw Coffee Company will deliver bespoke roasting solutions, while Coffee Planer will now exclusively focus on coffee solutions including machinery and support.

Fri, 22 Dec

• WatchHouse secures US $10 million in Series A funding. The UK coffee company says the funding will help it achieve its rapid growth plans in both the UK and New York over the next year and a half. It now predicts 60% year-on-year growth in FY 2024.

• Taf opens new café at Athens International Airport. The Greek chain has partnered with Air Canteen to open its latest location, offering high-quality coffee including the Pianeta Blue, Yirgacheffe To-La, and Thuti blends.

• The Independent Coffee Lab to host The London Coffee Tasting Club on 20 January. The coffee tasting session will take place at the company’s headquarters in London, England and includes an 8x100g sample pack.

• Vollers Group acquires Sensible Development Limited’s online coffee auction platform. Vollers Group says the acquisition reflects its commitment to enhancing services and setting new industry standards. It promises a seamless transition for all users and has rebranded the platform as V-Auction.

• Toraja Mountain Coffee launches Happy Holidays Gift Box. The festive package includes five Indonesian coffees, a hand-printed gift box, stickers, and a logo-stamped card. The company directly sources coffee from local producers, giving it access to exclusive small lots.

• VOLT Bikes unveils Café VOLT at its London, England headquarters. The e-bike brand says the café sources its products from independent producers, with sandwiches and snacks prepared in-house, while it sources its specialty coffee from Scenery Coffee.

Here are a few coffee news stories from previous weeks that you might find interesting. Take a look.

• Thu, 14 Dec – Labour board wants Starbucks to reopen 23 shuttered US locations. The US National Labor Relations Board says Starbucks closed the cafés in retaliation to unionisation efforts and has asked a judge to force it to reopen the stores. The company denies all allegations.

• Fri, 15 Dec – Chobani acquires La Colombe for US $900 million. The yoghurt and dairy manufacturer says the acquisition will help it chart its “next chapter of growth”. La Colombe will continue to operate as an independent brand.

• Fri, 15 Dec – TIPA and ATI unveil fully-compostable coffee capsule lids. The companies say the patented lidding material solves previous issues like poor sealing, delamination, leaching, and inconsistent flow. It’s received OK Biobased’s highest accreditation of four stars and is compatible with all compostable coffee filling lines.

• Sun, 17 Dec – Caffè Nero to close 19 Harris and Hoole stores before Christmas. The cafés operate out of Tesco supermarkets in the UK, but Caffè Nero says it wants to focus on standalone stores going forward.

Coffee news image credits:

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Want to keep up with current affairs in the coffee industry? Check out last week’s coffee news stories and make sure to read the latest Coffee Intelligence article on Chobani’s acquisition of La Colombe.

The post Coffee News Recap, 22 Dec: Chobani acquires La Colombe for US $900 million, climate change could halve global robusta production by 2040 & other stories appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

One of the latest and most prominent acquisitions was in July 2023, when Keurig Dr Pepper purchased a US $300 million minority stake in La Colombe. As part of its 33% stake, KDP now sells and distributes La Colombe’s ready-to-drink (RTD) coffee beverages, and also manufactures, sells, and distributes La Colombe-branded K-Cup coffee pods under a licence agreement in North America.

More recently, however, iconic US Greek yoghurt brand Chobani bought La Colombe for US $900 million. The two companies have a close history, with Chobani CEO and founder Hamdi Ulukaya often publicly stating his interest in the pioneering coffee roaster.

So it’s clear that Chobani wants to expand even more into the RTD coffee segment, and La Colombe is determined to maintain its grip on the market. But what does the acquisition mean for the future of RTD coffee — and what does it say about the opportunities for smaller specialty coffee roasters?

To find out, I spoke to Tony Dreyfuss, co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee Company.

You may also like our article on whether Keurig Dr Pepper’s minority stake in La Colombe is a sign that acquisition is inevitable in specialty coffee.

Chobani & La Colombe: A history

Given how influential both brands are, the reasons for the recent acquisition are quite clear. But it’s also important to consider that the relationship between Chobani and La Colombe dates back some years.

Founded in 1994 by Todd Carmichael and JP Iberti, La Colombe was one of the first roasters to help establish third wave coffee culture in North America, with the vision “to make the world better through coffee”.

With this focus on craft and quality – alongside a commitment to supporting both local and coffee-growing communities and improving sustainable practices – La Colombe quickly became a pioneer in the industry.

Fast forward nine years and it had started manufacturing RTD cold coffee drinks, including cold brew and its innovative draft lattes. The latter include a valve mechanism at the base of the cans which injects the liquid with nitrous oxide – mimicking the creamy mouthfeel of steamed milk.

Around the same time, Chobani CEO and founder Hamdi Ulukaya expressed interest in investing in La Colombe. Between 2014 and 2015, Ulukaya has previously offered La Colombe US $60 million for a controlling stake in the company. And since then, the brands have collaborated several times – ranging from projects supporting refugees to cold brew creamer beverages.

It’s also easy to point to this as a natural partnership between the two brands. Chobani’s historic focus on alternative milks and La Colombe’s pioneering RTD beverages both align with where specialty coffee is going — making it a perfect match.

What does the acquisition mean for RTD & the wider coffee industry?

There’s no doubt that this acquisition will see La Colombe’s operations expand and continue to push sales for its wildly successful RTD draft lattes. Within 18 months of their launch, the draft lattes already comprised more than 1% of the total US RTD coffee market share.

Most notably, the acquisition shows just how important RTD really is for coffee roasters. This is a landmark, high-value acquisition in a segment that the industry has long since heralded as being fast-growing.

For roasters who are able to tackle RTD and diversify their beverage portfolio, this acquisition shows the sheer amount of potential in the segment. It’s also important to acknowledge that it reflects the direction of consumer behaviour.

Most modern specialty coffee consumers are interested first and foremost in factors like convenience and customisation rather than chasing down higher quality micro lots at any costs. In other words: RTD is a key segment for specialty coffee brands looking to diversify and reach a wider audience. This understandably presents a huge opportunity for brands who can access the market.

However, consolidation like this does inevitably mean that it can be challenging for smaller roasters to compete in this market — especially compared to distribution networks like Chobani’s and La Colombe’s.

Metropolis manufactures and sells canned cold brew, kegs, and concentrates in partnership with co-packers, so Tony has an in-depth understanding of the market.

“Distribution of RTD coffee products can be very complicated because it’s all cold chain,” he says. “Unless you’re backed by a big company which specialises in cold chain distribution, it’s difficult to have access to that kind of network.

“What’s more, most specialty coffee companies aren’t interested in shelf-stable RTD products because they tend to be lower quality, so they have to sell and distribute on a smaller, more local scale for a higher price,” he adds.

How can smaller brands keep up?

This acquisition is just another sign that the investment into RTD coffee is only continuing to grow. As we’ve said, it might not be easy, but for the companies who can reach this consumer base, there is an immense amount of potential.

Despite the focus on convenience and customisation, it is important to meet the quality standards that consumers have come to expect — especially as more and more players recognise how valuable this segment is.

“Sales of our RTD cold brew are more than five times the amount they were over three years ago – mostly through kegs and concentrate sales, as well as through food service distributors,” Tony says.

Ultimately, however, it’s about more than just using high-quality coffee and creating innovative RTD drinks.

“Marketing is essential,” Tony tells me. “Consumers don’t really know many of the smaller RTD coffee brands outside of their home market, so you need to invest a lot of money on marketing and branding.

“You need to consider a combination of factors, including manufacturing availability and costs and distribution issues,” he adds. “But there’s still a massive market for smaller players.”

By delving deeper into the relationship between Chobani and La Colombe, the recent acquisition makes a lot of sense. But the industry definitely needs to keep an eye on how this strategic partnership influences the RTD coffee market in the coming months.

We can surely say that it will only drive RTD coffee quality even further – and specialty coffee roasters will need to stay ahead of the game if they want to keep up with the bigger brands.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why acquisitions are becoming more common in the coffee industry.

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Every coffee competition, however, needs a group of highly skilled and experienced judges to assess performance, and ultimately determine the rankings and overall winner. Judges not only need to stay sharp, but they also have to be transparent, honest, and thorough when providing their scores and feedback. In short, we often don’t realise just how challenging it can be to judge competitions.

So is there a way to minimise this pressure and ensure a fairer process for both competitors and judges? I spoke to Trent Rollings, a certified World Coffee Championships sensory judge, and Sonja Björk Grant, a pioneering figure in creating the World Barista Championship’s judging format and procedures, to find out more.

You may also like our article on the new rules for the 2024 World Barista Championship.

How are coffee competitions judged?

There are many coffee competitions that take place every year, but the World Coffee Championships (WCC) are some of the most prominent and exciting. These include:

• World Barista Championship
• World Brewers Cup
• World Coffee Roasting Championship
• World Cup Tasters Championship
• World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship
• World Latte Art Championship
• World Cezve/Ibrik Championship

Every WCC event (largely excluding the World Cup Tasters Championship) relies on a panel of judges to score all competitors’ performances. Scores are assessed and based on different sets of rules and parameters which are unique to each competition. This means judges must have a thorough understanding of the specific rules, and need to be attentive to every aspect of a competitor’s routine and presentation. 

Moreover, there are different types of WCC judges. For instance, technical judges assess participants’ skills and workflow – including hygiene and food safety. Sensory judges, meanwhile, focus on coffee and beverage quality, as well as how accurate flavour and mouthfeel descriptors are.

In addition to passing a certification course and attending recalibration sessions, WCC judges need to keep up with any new rules and regulations – as well as any changes and developments in the wider specialty coffee sector.

In addition to being a WCC judge, Trent Rollings is a SCA trainer and competition consultant.

“Every year, there are some rule changes,” he tells me. “Last year at the World Barista Championship, the rules were changed to allow plant milks. 

“There are also the usual updates in how scoring is done and with the prompts on the sheet,” he adds. “Judges must be updated about all of these changes.”

Exploring the challenges of judging competitions

There are countless articles focusing on WCC competitors which highlight their dedicated journey in taking part, or ultimately winning. But the process isn’t exactly straightforward and easy for the judges either.

From sensory fatigue and mental exhaustion to keeping up with rule changes, being a coffee competition judge requires a lot of time and investment.

Palate fatigue

Taste bud exhaustion or palate fatigue can be one of the biggest challenges for competition judges. At events like the World Barista, Brewers Cup, Coffee in Good Spirits, and Coffee Roasting Championships, judges are required to taste every beverage prepared by all competitors.

Sonja Björk Grant is a co-founder of Kaffibrugghúsið in Reykjavik, Iceland, and has been a WCC judge for 22 years.

“At the World Coffee Championships, there are judging slots throughout the day which are usually between two and five routines,” she says. “[If they are certified to do so], judges will sometimes switch between sensory, technical, and head judging. 

“Every judge should know the limits of their palate and their tolerance,” she adds. “For example, you can’t judge too many WCIGS routines because you would drink too much alcohol. You can also eat bread and biscuits and drink water in the calibration room to clean your palate.”

Mental fatigue

In addition to sensory fatigue, listening to and judging so many competitors can be mentally exhausting. Judges need to be just as focused and stay just as sharp for the last competitor of the day as they were for the first person.

“When they are performing, the competitors are providing you with a lot of information – it can be overwhelming for the judges sometimes,” Trent explains. “So you have to prioritise intaking the information. I avoid writing too many notes and try to focus on understanding the competitor – how they’re explaining what they are doing, which ingredients they’re using, and what they have pre-prepared for their routine.

“It’s important, however, that competitors feel that the judges are engaged with them and are paying attention to what they are saying and doing,” he adds.

Sonja emphasises how concentration is absolutely essential for judges.

“When I walk on the stage, greet the competitor, and a new routine starts, there is nothing else on my mind. I have a scoresheet before me, and I am looking for answers to the questions on the sheet,” she tells me. “Once the routine is done, I leave the stage, finish writing my comments in the calibration room, turn in my sheet, and then I forget the routine that just finished so I am ready for the next competitor. 

“I want to be very focused on staying in the moment of the routine so I don’t miss anything the barista is saying that is relevant to the drinks they are serving,” she adds. “This comes with practice and experience.”

Staying calibrated and minimising variance

As part of the WCC recertification process, judges must attend calibration sessions before the competitions take place. This is critical to ensuring all judges’ palates are as calibrated and aligned as possible to make sure the judging process is fair and consistent.

And this is especially important considering that judges often come from different countries and cultural backgrounds. In turn, they will have varying levels of exposure to different foods and cuisines, which will ultimately influence their palates.

Judges also need to ensure they are well-rested for each day of the competitions, and should avoid eating certain foods which could inhibit their ability to taste flavour notes in coffee.

“You shouldn’t eat spicy and strong-tasting or smelling foods – or anything that can taint your palate – just before and during the championships,” Trent explains.

Communication challenges

Just like the judges, WCC competitors come from all over the world. Naturally, this can present language barriers – especially considering that the championships must take place in English or with an interpreter. 

On top of that, communicating with the other judges – especially during deliberation – requires excellent verbal skills. 

“You need to know when to assert yourself and your reasoning for the score you gave, and when to say that you might not have been fully calibrated,” Trent says. “Judging is a team sport and it requires everyone to be in sync.”

As part of debrief sessions, the judges speak to every competitor to discuss their routine. While most debriefs are amicable and run smoothly, disagreements between competitors and judges are certainly possible. If this happens, it’s important to remain respectful at all times.

How can competitor organisers improve the judging experience?

First and foremost, Trent points out that consistency in the format and structure of the competitions is an important step.

“Improving consistency between the regional, national, and world levels of the championships would make a big difference,” he says. “It would help the judges, as well as the competitors, to be better prepared.”

Given how competitors receive feedback on their routines, it could be beneficial to implement a similar system for judges. For instance, head judges or WCC representatives could potentially provide individual guidance on how to improve judging techniques or how to remain calibrated.

Acknowledging the positives

Sonja emphasises that the judging experience can be highly rewarding, of course.

“I have loved my journey of being a WCC judge for 22 years,” Sonja says. “It was definitely not all a walk in the park, but what I enjoyed the most was being able to understand different coffee cultures from around the world and the people working in them.”

While it can be a difficult process, becoming a WCC judge is considered a prestigious and honourable position – and Trent recognises this.

“It’s not about competitors vs judges – we’re not looking to take away points and punish the competitors,” he says. “For the most part, we are very supportive. We want the competitor to feel like we are engaged with them.”

Taking part in the World Coffee Championships is an opportunity for coffee professionals to learn and grow. And while we mostly associate this opportunity with the competitors, it also rings true for the judges.

Ultimately, by encouraging open communication and providing better support to the judges, organisers can improve the competition experience for everyone.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how coffee competitions have changed in recent years.

Photo credits: Trent Rollings, Specialty Coffee Association, World Coffee Events

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Although the espresso martini is very much a product of the 1980s, the drink underwent a period of re-invention in the 1990s. Today, it’s experiencing something of a renaissance against the backdrop of ongoing nostalgia for Y2K aesthetic and fashion. 

So how was the espresso martini invented, and what makes it such a classic cocktail? And does it really have a place in specialty coffee?

To find out, I spoke to Dan Fellows, two-time World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion, and Chris Nolte, co-founder and Managing Partner at Per’La Specialty Roasters.

You may also like our article on adding coffee cocktails to your menu.

Where did it all begin?

At the Soho Brasserie in London in the early 1980s (the exact year is up for debate), the legendary British bartender Dick Bradsell invented the espresso martini. 

According to his daughter Bea, a supermodel approached the bar and requested he make her a drink that would “wake her up and [mess] her up”. Contrary to popular belief, the model in question was not Naomi Campbell or Kate Moss – and they still remain unknown.

In any case, the Soho Barasserie had just installed a new espresso machine. As per the customer’s request, Bradsell added a shot of espresso to coffee liqueur and vodka, shaken and then poured over ice in a tumbler. The tradition of serving the cocktail in a martini glass didn’t really start until the 1990s when flavoured martinis became more popular. 

For his original espresso martini, Bradsell added the following ingredients:

• A 25ml “ristretto” shot of illycaffè’s Classico blend
• 50ml of Wyberova rye-based vodka
• 15ml Kahlúa coffee liqueur
• 10ml of Tia Maria cold brew liqueur
• A dash of sugar syrup

To honour her late father’s recipe, Bea recommends to “shake it like you hate it”, which helps to create the distinctive foam head. Finally, Bradsell garnished the cocktail with three coffee beans.

The secret to the espresso martini’s success

In recent years, coffee cocktails across the board have become immensely popular. Similarly, the spike in craft and small batch coffee liqueurs has certainly helped push for higher-quality coffee-based alcoholic beverages.

When made to Bradsell’s (or a similar) recipe, it’s easy to see why the espresso martini has become so iconic. The result is a wonderfully balanced, silky smooth cocktail.

Chris Nolte is the co-founder of Per’La Specialty Roasters in Miami, Florida.

“It’s very easy to understand this cocktail, it’s approachable and comfortable,” he says. “You know what a martini is and you know what espresso is. I also think the combination of alcohol and coffee is a classic balance.”

Despite its popularity, however, the drink has earned a reputation among bartenders and baristas.

Dan Fellows is a coffee and cocktail content creator. He admits the espresso martini is “actually really hard to do exceptionally well”.

A large part of this is because many bars and restaurants – even including more high end venues – either don’t use specialty-grade coffee or haven’t received formal training to dial in coffee to high enough standards.

While Bradsell’s recipe called for a commodity-grade dark roast espresso blend, more and more baristas and bartenders have recognised that coffee quality plays an integral role in the cocktail. 

“When you talk to bartenders, it’s clear that a lot more labour goes into the espresso martini compared to other traditional cocktails,” Chris tells me.

How to elevate the drink

Given how popular coffee cocktails have become in recent years, it makes sense that coffee shops would want to serve them. Without the right resources and training, however, quality could easily slip.

First and foremost, Dan emphasises that using good quality coffee is integral to preparing an exemplary espresso martini.

His recipe calls for 40g of espresso extracted at a 1:2 or 1:2.2 ratio, and Dan recommends using a coffee with notes of chocolate and some citrus flavours.

The next step, Dan adds, is to find a spirit that complements this flavour profile. For his recipe, he uses 20ml of both white rum and vodka kept chilled to minimise dilution.

Rather than using coffee liqueurs like Kahlúa or Tia Maria, Dan recommends adding 20ml of a homemade (and also zero-waste) coffee saccharum. This is a syrup made by blending sugar with used coffee pucks.

The final ingredient in Dan’s recipe is 1g of saline solution – which helps to highlight the more complex flavours. Lastly, once all the ingredients are added to the shaker, he recommends shaking vigorously with plenty of high-quality ice, and then double straining into a chilled coupe cocktail glass.

But is it time to move past the espresso martini?

There’s no denying that the espresso martini is an absolute classic cocktail. But has it been done to death?

We have to appreciate how the drink – and pioneering bartender Dick Bradsell – has paved the way for further innovation with adding coffee to cocktails and mocktails.

There have been, however, a number of eyebrow-raising variations of the beverage in recent years – including grating parmesan over the top – which may indicate that its popularity is waning.

While there may be some method to the madness, Dan doesn’t exactly sing its praises. “I don’t hate it but I don’t love it either,” he says. 

Looking for inspiration elsewhere

The world of coffee cocktails extends much further beyond the espresso martini. We only have to look at competitions like World Coffee in Good Spirits and Coffee Masters to see the endless possibilities – including adding coffee to drinks such as the negroni and the spritz.

Additionally, the popularity of cold brew has also inspired a number of high-quality coffee cocktails. The complex sweetness of cold brew can often be more complementary to a number of spirits, and helps to minimise the more bitter flavours in espresso.

When it comes to cocktails, respecting the classics is certainly encouraged. At the same time, however, allowing room for creativity and reinvention is key. 

We should honour and celebrate the espresso martini for what it is. And while it can certainly be elevated by using high-quality ingredients, it’s also clear that other coffee cocktails are also taking up more of the spotlight – and will continue to do so.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on six summer cocktails you can make at home.

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Also known as drip coffee in the US, filter coffee has a longstanding history in the country and is vastly popular both in and out of the home. This sets it apart from many other majority coffee-consuming countries, where espresso-based beverages tend to hold top spot for out-of-home (OOH) consumption.

Furthermore, with the evolution of specialty coffee in recent years, filter coffee has been in the spotlight – and has become increasingly prominent in a number of major consuming markets. But how did it get here? And what happens next for filter coffee in the US? Read on to find out.

You may also like our article on which filter brewing method is best for you.

A history of coffee in the US

Robert Thurston is the Managing Director of Oxford Coffee Company and Emeritus Professor of History at Miami University. He is also the author of Coffee: From the Bean to the Barista.

Robert explains that while filter coffee as we know it might not have been popular decades ago, a percolation brewing method was still standard midway as early as midway through the 19th century.

“The old way of making coffee in the US was with the percolator,” Robert explains. “It definitely wasn’t using filter methods.” 

James Nason patented the first percolator in the US in 1865. Conversely, through the late 19th and early 20th century, espresso technology began to arrive in Europe – leading the two markets on two completely different paths.

Where does filter coffee come from?

Filter or drip coffee as we know it today can largely be traced back to Germany. Melitta Bentz launched a brewer in 1908. Within decades, stovetop percolators and filter coffee brewing became the two most prominent brewing methods in the country. 

They were so prominent, in fact, that GIs in Italy during the Second World War were forced to dilute espresso with water – the americano – to create a beverage more to their tastes.

This trend continued with automatic coffee brewers through the 1970s. The first home drip coffee brewer, Mr. Coffee, was launched in 1972, and famously promoted by baseball player Joe DiMaggio for decades.

“[Filter coffee’s popularity] is because of machines like Mr. Coffee on one hand, and on the other because coffee drinkers like the taste better than other brewing methods,” Robert explains. He adds that pretty much everywhere a coffee drinker would go in the US, they’d get filter coffee, “even at convenience stores”.

Fast forward to today, and while espresso-based beverages have gathered speed thanks to the rise of chain coffee shops like Starbucks, filter coffee still retains the top spot. 

“Drip coffee machines comprised 43% of all machines sold in the US in 2019,” Robert adds.

How did drip coffee become so popular?

So, we know how prominent filter coffee is in the US – but why?

To find out more, we spoke to Peter Giuliano, Executive Director at the SCA’s Coffee Science Foundation.

“It’s always tricky to speculate on why something is popular,” Peter explains. “However, coffee drinking became popular in the US during the 19th century, when many immigrants were coming to the US from places like Germany and Scandinavia. These cultures preferred relatively dilute cups of coffee.”

Peter adds that after this, the practice of filtering coffee became more prominent both in and out of home.

“With the launch of the paper filter in the early 20th century, it was popular among Americans making coffee at home,” he explains. “This was mainly thanks to its convenience during cleanup.

“Soon, large format paper filter machines were developed for restaurants, and the filtered cup of coffee became the standard both in the home and when ‘eating out’.”

Differences compared to other countries

Other historic and cultural factors also become apparent when we compare the evolution of coffee consumption in the US to other major markets. For example, coffee came to Europe as early as the 17th century, thanks to colonial influence overseas. This led to centuries of evolution in consumption, which saw coffee intermittently become a luxury and the centrepiece of debate in coffee houses. Coffee’s arrival in the US, meanwhile, was fundamentally different – which is perhaps linked to differences in how it has been consumed over the years.

There are also cultural differences in how consumers drink coffee today. Filter coffee – which can be brewed ahead of time in large quantities to be kept warm – caters perfectly to a growing focus on convenience and service speed in the coffee industry. And while this is a global trend, it is especially prominent in the US market. We only have to look at the growth of drive-thru coffee in the country as one major example.

Furthermore, while some European countries – such as the UK – exhibit the same focus on speed and convenience, others have a fundamentally different relationship with coffee consumption. In countries such as France and Italy, cafés and restaurants tend to be less predisposed to providing coffee to-go, for example. Sweden is another example, with its longstanding tradition of fika – a leisurely coffee break.

What happens next for filter coffee?

In view of filter coffee’s seemingly impenetrable status as the US’ favourite brewing method, it’s important to ask what happens next.

Peter explains that while espresso did broadly start to appear midway through the 20th century, its presence hasn’t grown tremendously in the last few years.

“Espresso began to make its broad appearance in the 1960s,” he says. “However, it really took off during the coffee bar ‘boom’ of the 1980s and 1990s.

“Since 2017, espresso and espresso-based beverages have kept a relatively stable market share – about 25% of all coffee drinks consumed.” 

What’s the future for espresso in the US?

Peter acknowledges that as the decades pass, filter coffee’s dominance may come into question. 

“For many consumers in the US, filter coffee is the default style of coffee brewing, while others are more ‘special’,” Peter says. “Many consumers drink filter coffee on a daily basis and other types as a treat.

“However, there is a stark age difference; younger consumers are more likely to favour espresso-based drinks over traditional filter coffee.”

Altogether, this shows that the short and medium term future for filter coffee is likely to be reasonably stable – with innovation in pour over brewing driven by third wave coffee. 

Furthermore, while in the long term, younger generations’ relationship with espresso-based drinks may prove to be more disruptive, it’s likely that filter coffee will still retain a solid presence at the top of the market. Espresso’s market share hasn’t grown significantly for the last few years, and it would be an incredible surprise if it was to dethrone filter coffee across the board.

Ultimately, all the evidence shows that the US’ fundamentally unique relationship with drip coffee will dictate its future. Beyond the next few decades, this could change, but at least for now – it’s not going anywhere.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on batch brew vs pour over: how long you should wait for filter coffee.

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Here are this week’s coffee news stories.

Mon, 11 Dec

• SCA announces World of Coffee Panama 2026. The SCA has partnered with the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama and the Panamanian government to expand the World of Coffee trade show to Central America. The event will take place at the Panama Convention Center in October 2026.

• Triesteespresso Expo will return to Trieste, Italy from 24 to 26 October 2024. The eleventh edition of the annual coffee event will once again be held at the Trieste Convention Centre, featuring three days of “full immersion in the world of coffee”. The 2023 event attracted over 13,000 visitors.

• Nescafé says soluble coffee remains key to recruiting more coffee consumers in Asia Pacific region. The Nestlé company says it hopes to increase coffee consumption and sales in countries like India and China, using soluble coffee as a way to introduce consumers to the wider coffee category.

• Suntory BOSS Coffee says iced coffee is the drink of choice for 88% of young Australians. The company commissioned a study that found that around four in five young Australians are “obsessed” with iced coffee, with 61% of the remaining demographic “eager to jump on the bandwagon”.

• UK specialty roaster Established Coffee celebrates ten year anniversary. The roaster announced a special release to mark its 10th anniversary. The Finca Kilimanjaro is a washed coffee from El Salvador, with notes of blackcurrant, ruby grapefruit, and nougat. Customers are eligible for a 10% discount on all wholebean coffee and brewing equipment to celebrate.

• Quattro R fund acquires 50% of the capital of Massimo Zanetti Beverage Group. The deal will result in a capital increase of US $98 million, helping to bring MZBG back onto the stock market after it withdrew in 2021.

• Limited sponsorship opportunities remaining for Australia’s Richest Barista competition. The Melbourne International Coffee Expo is calling on all interested parties to submit applications to sponsor the coffee competition. It says that sponsors will gain “unparalleled visibility” for their brands “in front of the global coffee industry and coffee lovers alike”.

• JNP Coffee offers holiday sale on spot coffees from Burundi. The green coffee sourcing company says several of its fully washed and natural lots from Burundi are available at discounted rates to celebrate the holiday season.

Tue, 12 Dec

• Potential buyers eye Mercon following bankruptcy protection filing. The company is continuing to trade while Chapter 11 bankruptcy proceedings are underway. However, five “strategic potential purchasers” have already contacted the company to discuss acquiring its assets.

• Nicaragua’s CISA Exportadora closes following Mercon bankruptcy filing. The main marketer of Nicaraguan coffee suspended operations following a bankruptcy protection filing by its parent company, Mercon. The national government says it will support producers with legal measures to ensure the company fulfils its obligations.

• China overtakes the US as the branded coffee shop capital of the world. The Guardian reports that China’s branded coffee shop market grew by 60% in just a year, reaching a total of 49,691 stores to overtake the US as the world’s biggest coffee shop market.

• Latest Finlay’s Global Beverage Report says 2024 trends include fads, hyper-targeted health, and statement spending. The annual report outlines anticipated market trends for 2024, noting that consumers expect more speed and sustainability from beverage brands.

• Eversys invites consumers and clients to learn more about its Asia Pacific partners. The fully automatic espresso machine manufacturer has compiled several updates on its partnerships in the region, including stories about Roots, Fore Coffee, Tim Hortons, and Tomoro.

• Equator Coffees opens third Southern California café in Laguna Beach. The company has partnered with electric automaker Rivian to open a café at the Rivian South Coast Theatre. The café will serve specialty coffee, signature drinks, and a café menu.

• ICO forecasts 5.8% increase in global coffee production in 2023-24 season. The organisation says total output could reach 178 million 60kg bags in the upcoming season, citing shifting trends in arabica and robusta varieties, regional dynamics, and considerations around adverse weather.

Wed, 13 Dec

• Yara announces imminent acquisition of Agribios Italiana’s organic-based fertiliser business. Yara says it’s in the process of acquiring the business, adding that the “bolt-on” acquisition will support its organic strategy in Europe. It says it remains committed to promoting regenerative agriculture and improving soil health.

• Registration opens for 2024 Specialty Coffee Expo. The SCA says attendees can now register for the event, set to take place at the McCormick Place Convention Center in Chicago, USA from 12 to 14 April 2024.

• National Yemen Coffee Auction scheduled for 11 January 2024. The auction features 17 Yemeni coffee lots from several regions, including an anaerobic fermented Ja’adi produced by Mukhtar Hafaz-Allah Ahmed, which received a score of 91 points. Auction samples are available now.

• Robusta coffee futures prices reach highest levels in over 15 years. Reuters reports that robusta prices grew by 1.7% to reach US $2,769/tonne, marking the highest price since January 2008. In related coffee news, Brazilian farmers remain reluctant to sell, while Vietnam is beginning to export its most recent crop.

• Tim Hortons launches in South Korea. The Canadian coffee chain has opened a store at Sinnonhyeon Station in Gangnam, Seoul. It adds that it plans to open a total of 150 outlets across the country within five years.

• Finnish researchers successfully develop lab-grown coffee. Scientists cultured cells sourced from arabica leaves before freeze drying, grinding, and roasting them to create “lab-grown coffee” that partially mimics some flavours and aromas of conventional coffee.

• Cultivated Biosciences develops yeast-based, dairy-free coffee creamer. The Swiss startup says its coffee creamer is made using yeast-based fat, adding that it matches the performance of dairy creamers. It contains no binders or additives.

Thu, 14 Dec

• ProfilePrint completes Series B fundraising for its AI ingredient quality platform. The Singaporean company says its platform empowers users to “swiftly identify specialty-grade coffee for export”, among other features. The new funding will help expand into new markets.

• Sucafina continues working towards responsible sourcing with IMPACT programme. The company says it’s committed to tackling climate change, deforestation, unsustainable farming practices, poverty, and human rights issues through the programme. It currently includes the IMPACT Sustainability Standard and five clear IMPACT Goals to “drive measurable, positive change”.

• Bellwether Coffee partners with The Hagen Project to expand into Europe. The company has announced its expansion into the European market with its first fully-electric roaster installation in the region in collaboration with Hagen, London. It adds that the partnership will pioneer electric roasting in London.

• Registration opens for Coffee Technicians Guild Summit 2024. The summit is set to take place at Middleby Innovation Kitchens in Lewisville, Texas on 15 & 16 February 2024, featuring two days of networking, learning, and activities. Early bird tickets are available until 19 January.

• Krispy Kreme opens first flagship store in France. The chain has partnered with Wagram Finances to open a flagship store at the Westfield Forum des Halles shopping centre in Paris. It adds that it plans to open several dozen “access points” in France in 2024.

• ofi AtSourceV and AtSource+ recognised as equivalent schemes to the GCP’s Coffee Sustainability Reference Code. The Global Coffee Platform has recognised two of ofi’s sustainability management systems as equivalent to its CSRC, second party assurance, noting the company’s dedication to sustainability.

Fri, 15 Dec

• CAFEEX Shanghai 2023 set to take place from 29 to 31 December. The third edition of the international coffee expo will be held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, featuring an extensive exhibition hall, a specialty coffee forum, cupping sessions, and various competitions.

• Team We are the 1.33% wins The Barista League Atlanta 2023. Marissa Yoree and Addison Mathis won the multi-disciplinary barista competition, which was hosted at Eventide Brewing on 2 December. Guest judges included Kat Melheim and Anthony Ragler of Black & White Coffee Roasters.

• THAIFEX-HOREC Asia set to take place from 6 to 8 March 2024 in Bangkok, Thailand. The HoReCa expo will feature numerous exhibitions, including the latest products from coffee businesses. It will also host the ASEAN Barista Team Championship.

• SIGEP The Dolce World Expo scheduled for 20 to 24 January 2024 in Rimini, Italy. The 45th International Trade Show of Artisan Gelato, Pastry, Bakery and the Coffee World will take place at the Rimini Expo Centre, featuring extensive business opportunities, exhibitions, and several competitions.

• Cotti Coffee opens first Vietnamese stores. The Chinese café chain has entered its sixth foreign market with three stores in Ho Chi Minh City. It now operates more than 6,000 stores in China alone.

• Third Wave Coffee lays off 120 employees just months after securing US $35 million in funding. Reports suggest that the Indian company is restructuring to consolidate its teams, giving redundant employees a choice between immediate departure and two months’ salary or the option to continue working until mid-February 2024.

• Greggs opens 500th franchised store in the UK. The café chain has reached its target of 500 franchised UK stores, which now account for around 20% of its total business. It now aims to reach 3,000 total stores in the UK.

• Alimentaria 2024 set to take place from 18 to 21 March in Barcelona, Spain. The annual food, drinks, and gastronomy experience will be held at the Gran Via Venue, featuring over 3,000 exhibitors and numerous networking opportunities. Organisers expect more than 100,000 visitors to attend.

Here are a few coffee news stories from previous weeks that you might find interesting. Take a look.

• Thu, 23 Nov – co-cre8 launches nationwide paper cup collection and recycling service in the UK. The service is designed for all participants in the paper cup life cycle, regardless of size or volume. The company will also offer businesses guidance on on-site cup recycling.

• Thu, 30 Nov – Ripple Foods secures US $49 million in new funding round. The plant-based dairy alternative brand, which manufactures plant milk from yellow peas, has now accumulated US $274 million in funding, aiming to expand into new markets.

• Thu, 30 Nov – Allegra World Coffee Portal releases Project Café East Asia 2024 market report. The report surveyed over 4,000 Chinese coffee shop consumers and includes over 300 consultations with leading industry stakeholders in East Asia. It outlines the coffee market forecast for 2024.

• Thu, 7 Dec – Fairtrade America forecasts transparency, regenerative programs and private label opportunities in 2024. The organisation says that as businesses continue to adapt to regulations and greater consumer skepticism around greenwashing, “accountability and demonstrable impact for people and planet are more necessary than ever for brands and retailers alike”.

• Sat, 9 Dec – Nicaraguan coffee producers form committee to “influence” Mercon’s bankruptcy process. At least 60 producers met on Friday to discuss how Mercon Coffee Group’s bankruptcy process will affect the livelihoods of thousands of coffee workers in the country. The producers intend to take part in “any type of negotiation” to ensure their interests are prioritised.

• Sun, 10 Dec – India and Vietnam set to lead Asia’s growth in coffee consumption. According to Euromonitor Asia, coffee consumption is correlated with discretionary income and urbanisation. It forecasts that India and Vietnam will experience consumption growth of 37% and 32%, respectively by the end of 2027.

• Sun, 10 Dec – Lavazza partners with Sainsbury’s and Waitrose to bring Cuban coffee to the UK for the first time. Lavazza will distribute its Tierra coffees through the retail chains, aiming to help kickstart the Cuban coffee sector. Despite economic sanctions, Cuba produced more than 7,000 tonnes of coffee during the most recent season.

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