In recent years, producers have been creating and implementing more diverse experimental processing methods to stand out in the specialty coffee market. As a result, sensory profiles have become more unique and complex.

On top of this, the number of producers growing more exclusive arabica varieties (or even different species) has been increasing, too. In turn, the specialty coffee sector is becoming even more exciting.

However, with more producers taking a similar approach, is it becoming more difficult for them to differentiate their coffee?

To find out, I spoke with two coffee producers and a green coffee buyer. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why more producers don’t market their coffee.

Keeping up with innovation in coffee processing

It’s often said that post-harvest processing practices are responsible for up to 60% of overall coffee quality. But not only that, processing methods have a huge impact on coffee flavour and mouthfeel.

In line with this, experimental processing methods have become immensely popular in specialty coffee. By tweaking and tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create exciting, deeply complex flavours in their coffee. In some cases, they can even increase cup scores.

It’s then no wonder that producers – especially those who have the resources and right level of support – are trying out new processing methods. Some of these include carbonic maceration, lactic fermentation, and anaerobic fermentation, which are all quickly becoming more and more common in specialty coffee.

Jamie Jongkind is the European sales manager at Nordic Approach. He says innovation in processing methods is a natural progression of the specialty coffee market.

“Processing methods which were once thought to be novel are now the new baseline, which helps to drive innovation,” he tells me. “As long as the level of innovation is reasonable, roasters will keep buying these coffees. As a result, they push the industry to do better.”

Growing rare varieties

In recent years, another noticeable way that producers have started to differentiate their coffees is by growing rare and exclusive arabica varieties. Some of these include:

• Gesha – often considered the darling of specialty coffee
• Sidra – an unknown variety believed to have come from a breeding facility Ecuador
• Pink Bourbon – which won the 2023 World Barista Championship 
• Sudan Rume – used by 2015 World Barista Champion Sasa Sestic in his winning routine
• Java – an Ethiopian landrace variety with high quality potential
• Laurina – a naturally low-caf variety which won the 2018 World Brewers Cup

While it is certainly more difficult to successfully grow some of these varieties, there are benefits to doing so – including higher prices in some cases.

José Giraldo is a third-generation coffee producer and the founder of Café 1959 in Colombia – a farm which has been growing coffee for more than 50 years. 

He explains that in Colombia there has been somewhat of an evolution in the coffee sector. Increasingly, producers are focusing on growing rare varieties and carrying out novel processing techniques.

He says between the 1970s and 1990s, Colombia was mostly known for producing milder-tasting coffees such as Caturra and some Typica varieties.

“More and more Colombian producers are growing native Ethiopian varieties like Gesha and Wush Wush, other varieties like SL 28, Sidra, and Mokka, or even species like eugenioides,” José explains. “A growing number of producers are also using natural, anaerobic fermentation, or carbonic maceration processing methods.”

So is it becoming harder for producers to differentiate their coffees?

With more producers than ever before now implementing experimental processing methods and growing rarer varieties, is it becoming more difficult for them to stand out in the market? 

Jamie actually believes it’s becoming easier.

“With producers using more innovative processing techniques, it’s now more accessible for a wider range of producers to differentiate themselves by offering a bigger selection of coffees or by having more unique protocols which are more suitable to their terroir,” he says.

José agrees, saying that better access to the internet is helping producers to drive innovation on farms.

“Today, farmers have much more access to a lot of information and resources so they can discuss different varieties or processing methods with each other,” he says. 

However, that’s not to say producers don’t face challenges when it comes to differentiating their coffees.

“‘Trending’ coffees and processing methods change so fast – even between harvests – which makes it even more difficult to forecast what’s coming next,” José says. “I think this is driving producers to innovate and create novel processing methods or plant different varieties to stand out in a highly competitive market.”

Jorge Raul Rivera is a second-generation coffee producer at Finca Santa Rosa in El Salvador, which predominantly grows Pacamara.

“People are paying high prices for Gesha, so it’s a trendy specialty coffee variety,” he says. “People want what’s trendy.”

Is there growing pressure on farmers to innovate?

Continuous innovation is key to driving growth in the specialty coffee market. However, demand for more “exciting” coffees is undoubtedly putting an increasing amount of pressure on producers.

For instance, deciding to implement a new processing method or grow a different variety can involve serious risk that producers may need to absorb themselves. Farmers ultimately need to ensure they can find buyers for these new coffees. At the same time, they also may need to make some difficult choices when carrying out these new farming practices – as well as investing significant amounts of money upfront.

“This situation is sometimes more dangerous than pests or diseases,” José tells me. “It’s a huge investment in terms of money and time. And it’s not always guaranteed that producers will receive a premium price just because they grow this variety.”

Helping absorb risk

Jamie acknowledges there is growing pressure on producers to become more innovative. But, he believes roasters are also becoming more aware of how much work they are asking from producers.

“The hype about having new varieties every other year – which is largely driven by roasters – seems to have been replaced by a bigger emphasis on processing methods, which for the producer is much easier to handle,” he says.

Jamie explains that Nordic Approach follows certain procedures to ensure producers can sustainably carry out these processing methods. This begins by working closely with producers to understand their specific motivations, abilities, and skills, as well as the equipment and resources they already have access to.

Following this, Jamie adds that Nordic Approach helps producers to make sure experimental processing methods are controlled. However, he stresses it’s important to also clearly communicate that it’s not always guaranteed they can replicate results. Pre-contracting and pre-financing coffees can also help to ensure producers don’t bear the brunt of the financial risk.

Ultimately, trying new processing methods means producers must have a deep understanding of different market needs, as well as the willingness and ability to experiment with different variables.

José, meanwhile, says that scaling new experimental processing methods can be a huge risk, but the results are sometimes worth it.

“You need to try different things to get different results,” he says. “It can be difficult, but if you account for the responsibility of all the supply chain stakeholders, you can reduce the risk.”

Quality comes first

For any coffee business, standing out from competitors is vital – and this includes producers, too.

However, Jorge explains that farmers’ financial risks will increase more if they don’t focus on quality first and foremost.

“I don’t think farmers lose money if they don’t differentiate their coffee,” he says. “I think they lose money if they don’t strive for and prioritise quality.

“If you are able to produce coffee that stays fresher for longer and has desirable flavour notes then people are likely to pay more for that coffee,” he adds.

Is it possible to become even more experimental?

With so many innovative processing methods used in specialty coffee now, it’s important to ask just how much room there is for further growth and experimentation.

Jamie says that similar to the wine and tea industries, there is always space for more innovation.

“The coffee industry has never stopped developing, but previously the space for growth was smaller,” he tells me. “Now, there are influences from across the value chain, as well from other industries. I don’t think innovation in specialty coffee will ever stop.”

Jorge, however, thinks experimentation (especially with processing methods) should remain as natural and localised as possible. 

“We were talking to a microbiologist in Colombia. He carries out fermentation with local microbes on the coffee farm, which I believe is the right way to do things,” he says. “Some people use yeast and bacteria that comes from other parts of the world, which I think can create imbalance as nature takes its own course.”

Additionally, Jamie points out that we must keep social and environmental sustainability in mind when pushing for innovation in specialty coffee.

“We have the opportunity to not only demand the next ‘big thing’, but to simultaneously incorporate sustainability and ethics across the supply chain,” he tells me. “We want to make sure value is created out of respect for shared effort, dedication, and vision.”

In an ever-growing competitive market, it’s essential that producers stand out and showcase their highest-quality coffees.

But as the specialty coffee industry continues to diversify, and producers continue to use new processing methods and varieties, it’s important we keep the right approach in mind. Ultimately, there needs to be a balance between innovation and sustainability.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how producers can define sensory profiles for their coffee.

Photo credits: Zacharias Elias Abubeker, Jorge Raul Rivera

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