In fact, when it comes to processing methods in particular, it doesn’t take long to realise just how much specialty coffee producers draw inspiration from winemaking. We’re seeing the influence of the wine industry more and more in recent years, with producers using advanced processing methods more often – and thereby continuing to expand the range of flavours we can experience.

To learn more, I spoke to Camilo Merizalde, founder and director of the Santuario Project, and Carlos Pola, owner of the San Antonio, Las Brisas, and San Roque farms in El Salvador. Read on to learn what they had to share.

You may also like our article comparing coffee & alcohol production.

How has coffee processing changed in recent years?

For many specialty coffee professionals and enthusiasts, experimental processing is one of the industry’s most exciting topics. Although most coffee is processed using the three “traditional” methods – natural, washed, and honey – more advanced and novel techniques have been appearing at pace over the past few years.

We’re all well aware of how far coffee processing has evolved recently. But fewer of us may realise that winemaking has been key to this level of innovation.

For example, 2015 World Barista Champion Saša Šestić famously showcased carbonic maceration during his winning performance. He used the Sudan Rume variety which quickly caught people’s attention for its intense, fruity aromas, and heightened sweetness.

Saša’s WBC performance instantly thrusted carbonic maceration into the spotlight, and helped to generate even more interest in experimental processing. He wasn’t alone, however.

Camilo Merizalde is the founder and director of the Santuario Project, a specialty coffee producer and exporter with farms and wet mills in Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil, and Mexico. Together with Saša, he developed the carbonic maceration process.

Similarly, 2019 World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion Dan Fellows won using a frozen fermented Pacamara coffee. Like Saša, Dan collaborated with another coffee processing expert: Carlos Pola.

Exploring the influence of winemaking

Wine and coffee share several fundamental similarities. First and foremost, their unique sensory qualities are influenced by several factors, including:

• Terroir
• Fermentation
• Processing methods

Terroir describes a group of location-specific environmental conditions that include climate, terrain, soil, farming practices, and the effects of local culture and heritage. Although winemakers first coined the term centuries ago, it’s now commonly used in the specialty coffee sector.

However, the biggest similarities between winemaking and coffee production are found in processing methods.

“So many of the processing methods we use in coffee are the result of trends in winemaking, as well as extensive research about the anatomy of the coffee cherry and all the ways we can modify and accentuate flavour and quality,” Camilo says.

Carlos tells me has been experimenting with carbonic maceration and cold fermentations since 2018. He believes that because winemaking is such an ancient profession, the coffee industry can learn so much from it.

“The characteristics of the fruits are similar and, most importantly, winemaking dates back centuries,” he explains. “The practices and protocols used in the wine industry can be replicated in the much newer specialty coffee sector.”

He adds that processing methods like carbonic maceration and cryo-maceration – both influenced by winemaking – help his coffee to stand out in an increasingly competitive market.

“These techniques have helped us differentiate our coffees through creating extraordinary sensory attributes and higher scores,” he explains. “In our experience, it helps us to enhance flavour profile and prolong the shelf life of coffee.”

Fermentation is key

Fermentation is a chemical reaction that uses enzymes to break substances down into simpler ones. Typically – as mostly in the case of anaerobic fermentation – it requires a total absence of oxygen and the presence of yeast or bacteria, sugar, and heat. 

In alcohol production, enzyme-producing yeasts break sugars down into ethanol and other compounds, which gives different alcoholic drinks their distinctive flavours and aromas. 

All processing methods involve some level of fermentation, but not all of them have an impact on sensory profile. Some producers ferment coffee to more easily remove the seeds from the skin and mucilage (like washed processing), while others will use fermentation to heavily influence tasting notes and mouthfeel.
When carried out under controlled conditions, fermentation can produce a highly diverse range of flavours in coffee.

Anaerobic fermentation

Anaerobic fermentation always occurs in a low-oxygen environment. Typically, producers de-pulp coffee (although not always) before sealing it in airtight tanks or other vessels. A valve is also used to expel gases created through the fermentation process.

In turn, this method substantially alters the final sensory profile. In most cases, the flavours tend to be more intense, highly complex, and rather unconventional – especially compared to washed coffees.
As a result of these more unique flavour profiles, anaerobic fermentation is becoming more common. Some do believe, however, that this process can lead to inconsistent results if variables aren’t controlled tightly enough.

Lactic fermentation

La Palma y El Tucan, a farm in Cundinamarca, Colombia, is widely believed to have championed the lactic fermentation process. Technically, it’s a variation of anaerobic fermentation because it also occurs in a low-oxygen environment. 

After sorting coffee cherries, producers seal them in tanks. The anaerobic environment encourages the growth of lactobacillus cultures – the same bacteria used in dairy production – which convert sugars into a lactic acid solution. 

Producers often kick-start the process by inoculating the tank with a starter culture. However, like other complex and extended fermentation methods, lactic fermentation can be difficult to execute successfully.

To avoid this, some producers add a salt solution during the processing stage to control the rate and level of fermentation. If done correctly, the process produces a very sweet coffee with a medium-to-high body, with more fruity and yoghurt-like flavours and mouthfeel.

Yeast-assisted fermentation

Yeast application (also referred to as yeast inoculation) is the processing method that is perhaps most directly influenced by winemaking. Humans have been using yeast to ferment food and drink for thousands of years.

Under the right conditions, certain yeasts will grow directly on the skin of coffee cherries. However, it’s important to differentiate between spontaneous (wild) fermentation and commercial inoculation. 

Like winemakers, coffee producers can choose whether to allow yeasts to develop naturally or to intentionally add them. There are advantages to both methods, so the decision often comes down to which method is most accessible and sustainable. In other cases, it’s more about achieving a specific outcome in terms of flavour and quality.

Similar to lactic fermentation, producers begin the commercial inoculation process by introducing a starter culture to the coffee cherries. Typically, producers will use Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is a type of yeast that works especially well for processing coffee. 

Spontaneous fermentation, meanwhile, happens much more slowly. It’s also less predictable, which means stricter quality control methods are essential to achieving good results.

Carbonic maceration and winemaking

Probably the most famous processing technique borrowed from winemaking – especially in specialty coffee – is carbonic maceration. In the 1930s, wine producers in France’s Beaujolais region helped the method become more well known.

Wine from this region is generally made using the Gamay grape, which results in light red wines with pronounced bitterness and acidity. Carbonic maceration softens the grapes, giving the wine a sweeter and fruitier bouquet.

Like other experimental processing methods, carbonic maceration uses fermentation to amplify certain flavour attributes, or even introduce new ones.

Firstly, producers de-pulp the coffee cherries before sealing them in plastic or stainless steel tanks. Next, they flush the tanks with carbon dioxide. This forces oxygen out through a one-way valve. 

During fermentation, the same valve allows other gases to escape. Finally, after a predetermined period of time, the producer places the coffee on raised beds so it can dry. Here, it undergoes further fermentation – similarly to natural processed coffees.

“Carbonic maceration gives us the opportunity to delve deeper into more complex flavours,” Camilo says.

However, he notes that while carbonic maceration is inspired by the winemaking process, there are some notable differences.

“One of the most notable is the concentration of the mucilaginous layer on both coffee cherries and grapes, as well as the microbial composition of both,” he adds. “We personally believe that the coffee industry is still lightyears behind the wine industry in terms of processing.”

What does carbonic macerated coffee taste like?

In a previous article for PDG, Saša explains that he uses carbonic maceration to “target specific microorganisms by controlling different variables during fermentation”.

“These variables include tank temperature, environment, time, yeast and bacteria esters, and many more,” he elaborated. “Doing so allows us to elevate the flavour profile of the coffee, raising its cup score and changing its taste in a specific way.”

One style of carbonic maceration encourages the growth of microorganisms like Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, which both produce acetoin. Saša says that this gives the coffee a creamy, buttery mouthfeel.

The microorganisms present in the fermentation tank break down the sugars in the cherries more slowly. This results in coffees with complex flavours – often described as bright and winey.

In Panama, where producers consistently grow high-scoring specialty coffees, innovation in carbonic maceration is a growing trend. Producers say the resulting coffees are more layered and complex than those processed using other methods. They also have higher levels of acidity and a wider range of flavours and aromas.

Considering humans have been drinking wine for much longer than coffee, winemaking has left an indelible legacy on coffee production. As more coffee producers experiment with methods like carbonic maceration, it’s likely that the industry will continue to lean on winemaking for inspiration.

“While we have been experimenting with wine for thousands of years, coffee processing with similar fermentation techniques has been around for just a few years, so there is much work to be done and many more years of experimenting,” Carlos concludes. 

“In the process, the possibilities for better and different profiles in coffee are enormous.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on experimental coffee processing in Panama.

Photo credits: Camilo Merizalde, Carlos Pola, Finca Campo Hermoso Quindio, Edwin Noreña

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With this rapid innovation in processing, however, has also been a much broader discussion about transparency – especially regarding how producers create new flavours in coffee. That brings us to a hot topic among many industry professionals and enthusiasts: flavoured and infused coffees. This is when producers purposefully introduce other ingredients when processing coffee so the green beans absorb or take on certain sensory attributes.

While some prefer the terms “flavoured” or “infused”, others opt for “co-fermented” – making it seem as though they are interchangeable, which can only add to confusion in some cases. So what are the differences, if any?

To find out, I spoke to Rodrigo Sánchez Valencia, owner of Aromas del Sur, and Vicente Mejia, founder of Clearpath Coffee – who both have extensive experience with infused and co-fermented coffees.

You may also like our article exploring whether there’s a difference between infused and flavoured specialty coffee.

Flavoured vs infused vs co-fermented coffee

Understanding the distinction between flavoured and infused coffees can be challenging, largely because there are no formal definitions. We therefore have to rely on the perspectives and opinions of coffee professionals. 

In a previous article published in March 2023, Perfect Daily Grind interviewed Saša Šestić, founder of ONA Coffee and Project Origin, and Steven Restrepo, Head of Coffee at Café de Colita, to gain their insight.

Steven asserts that flavoured coffees are typically created through fermentation, as well as the addition of yeasts, bacteria, and artificial flavours. And while Saša believes that infusion can occur at any point along the supply chain, Steven disagrees – and states that he thinks you can only infuse coffees with artificial flavours after roasting.

So what about co-fermentation?

Looking at other resources, in a recent article, Ally Coffee explains that coffee is co-fermented in one of two ways: either by adding ingredients to the “mother culture” before processing, or by incorporating them directly with the coffee during fermentation. By this definition, co-fermented could be the same as flavoured or infused.

But it’s clear that not everyone agrees. 

Rodrigo Sánchez Valencia is a third-generation producer and owner of Aromas del Sur in Huila, Colombia. He tells me he avoids using the term “infused” to describe co-fermented coffees altogether. From Rodrigo’s perspective, co-fermented coffees are more natural, and are therefore more preferable in comparison to infused coffees. 

This is largely because he believes the term “infused” can imply artificial additives and flavours. Conversely, the flavours in co-fermented coffees are usually created during fermentation using exclusively natural ingredients, such as fruits or other microorganisms.

How do you co-ferment coffee?

Given the growing conversations around infused and flavoured coffees, let’s look more closely at the co-fermentation process.

Before experimenting with co-fermentation, Rodrigo says he explored the beer, wine, and dairy industries to learn more about fermentation and using certain microorganisms to create new flavours.

He tells me he soon realised how all three industries use the same basic microorganisms. For example, when fermenting beer and wine, manufacturers commonly use saccharomyces microbes. 

Rodrigo says initial trials involved co-fermenting coffee with wheat and various fruits. He adjusted variables like total fermentation time, sugar content, and acidity to find the best possible balance. Over time, he was happy with the results.

“We chose the term ‘co-fermentation’ to transparently convey the unique combination of flavours created and the more natural process behind it,” he explains.

Essentially, the process involves several steps:

• Firstly, Rodrigo ferments the “mother culture” for 190 hours. This mixture includes various microorganisms derived from coffee plants on his farm
• Next, he feeds the mother culture a mixture of fruit juices, fruit, and a sweetener (such as molasses)
  • This mixture enhances inherent flavours in the coffee and increases the total sugar content – fuelling the fermentation process
• Rodrigo then measures the sugar (or Brix) content of the cherries before adding them to a floatation tank to identify and remove lower-density beans
• The cherries are then pulped and placed in a sealed tank with the mother culture for 180 hours
• Following this co-fermentation period, the cherries are dried in direct sunlight for a few days, and then under shaded canopies until they reach a humidity level of 10% to 11%

Is there a market for these coffees?

While industry professionals and enthusiasts alike may not agree on how to formally define infused, flavoured, and co-fermented coffees, Rodrigo says there is increasing demand for them.

“We’re here to meet that demand and give our customers the one-of-a-kind coffee experiences they’re looking for,” he says.

However, producers still face certain challenges regarding these processing methods, including convincing roasters to try these coffees. Rodrigo explains that some roasters are hesitant to buy co-fermented and infused coffees, while others are more curious.

Vicente Mejia is the founder of Clearpath Coffee – a specialty coffee exporter in Colombia. He explains that even in an increasingly innovative specialty coffee sector, some believe that infusing or co-fermenting coffees isn’t always a good thing.

“Some refuse to even try the coffee or don’t want to offer it to their clients,” he says. “They argue that it doesn’t meet their standards of authenticity.”

He adds that Q graders and roasters – who often have years of training and well-developed palates – can sometimes feel that infused and co-fermented coffees lack depth.

“However, some seem to forget that it’s not them who will ultimately purchase and consume the coffee, but rather the everyday drinker who might enjoy trying coffee with flavour profiles that are easier to taste,” he explains.

Acknowledging the positive reception to these coffees

Consumers seem to be increasingly embracing co-fermented and infused coffees. Rodrigo says that buyers in Asian markets like Japan, Taiwan, China, Singapore, and Malaysia are showing the most interest. Additionally, co-fermented coffees have been well received in Arab markets like the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait, Qatar, and Saudi Arabia. 

Vicente, meanwhile, says he’s received positive feedback from roasters who have taken the “leap of faith”.

“Co-fermented coffees can provide a fun tasting experience for end consumers, allowing them to appreciate the nuances of flavour and learn about the fermentation process,” he says. “This is especially beneficial for those who may not have extensive training or knowledge in coffee, as it offers a more accessible option for trying something new and special.”

How can transparency contribute to success?

Following growing positive reception, infused and co-fermented coffees are certainly one way to drive innovation at the heart of specialty coffee. 

Vicente, however, emphasises that if producers and roasters want to be successful selling these coffees, the process must be transparent. For example, issues can arise if producers and roasters fail to disclose how the coffees are processed.

“They might say they are achieving these flavour profiles with more traditional processing techniques and new technologies,” he argues. “This is dishonest and creates a number of problems.”

Ultimately, transparency and traceability – two factors that are more important to specialty coffee consumers than ever before – are essential to marketing and selling infused and co-fermented coffees.

What’s more, inconsistencies in how we as an industry describe these coffees can further complicate matters – causing confusion or even misinterpretation. And although we’re still not close to formally defining infused or co-fermented coffees, being careful and mindful about the language we use is important.

In summary, there are differences between infused and co-fermented coffees. However, it all still seems subjective and very much based on different opinions, albeit from qualified professionals.

Establishing universal terminology is one way to dispel any confusion about the differences between flavoured, infused, and co-fermented coffees. But who gets to define these terms in the first place? That is the ultimate question – and it’s essential that we prioritise producers’ perspectives.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article answering some common questions about infused coffee.

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Historically, the wider coffee industry has focused on what we might refer to as the “big three” processing methods: natural, washed, and honey. In recent years, however, we have seen more and more producers deviate from these “traditional” methods, which often include different and diverse levels of fermentation. In turn, these more experimental techniques are now redefining the way we talk about coffee processing. 

To learn more, I spoke to two pioneering specialty coffee producers: Felipe Sardi, co-founder of La Palma y El Tucan, and Jorge Hernán Castro Molina, Production and Sales Director at Inmaculada Coffee Farms. 

You may also like our article exploring trends in experimental processing.

Traditional vs. experimental

When we talk about experimental coffee processing, we often refer to techniques which deviate from the widely accepted and more formalised protocols for washed, natural, and honey processes. But it’s a little more complicated than that.

Felipe believes looking at the unique history of individual coffee-producing countries is an important starting point.

Using Colombia, as an example, he says: “For over a hundred years, we’ve been washing arabica varieties for between 18 to 24 hours in tanks,” – a standard approach in the country’s coffee sector.

“In the case of Colombia, I think the baseline is clear,” he adds. “So anywhere that producers start deviating from that point could be though of as innovation or challenging the status quo.”

This rule could also apply to other producing countries, such as:

• Brazil and Ethiopia, where many producers opt for natural processing methods
• Costa Rica, where honey processing is vastly popular
• Kenya, where the washed process has been the standard for decades

The role of fermentation

To most consumers and industry professionals, experimental processing usually implies some kind of extended fermentation. It’s worth noting, however, that all coffee is fermented at some point during processing. Ultimately, what matters is the duration and type of fermentation, as well as the conditions under which it happens.

Felipe tells me that one of La Palma y El Tucan’s unique fermentation processes was the result of an accident when a few bags of cherries were left behind a door. The cherries began to ferment in a way that Felipe now describes as “anaerobic pre-fermentation”.

“From there we started to improvise in a more artisanal way,” he adds. He explains that the farm partnered with the National University of Colombia’s biochemistry lab and two private labs in Bogotá to conduct further research.

Jorge says that Inmaculada Coffee Farms is also committed to understanding the science behind fermentation – a process which began around 11 years ago. Inmaculada’s experiments have ranged from different lengths of fermentation to temperature-controlled fermentations, with the overall goal to understand how different variables affect flavour.

Moreover, all of the farm’s coffee is natural, which in the context of Colombia is a deviation from traditional processing methods.

“The factors you need to change are how rigorously you do things and to understand why you do things,” he says. “Five years ago, we were producing natural aerobic coffees, but what we are doing now is sharpening and polishing our processing methods.”

Re-defining experimental processing

In just a few short years, experimental processing in specialty coffee has evolved from accidental fermentation to highly-controlled conditions. Notably, this shift has also occurred alongside a movement in the wider food and drink industry where fermented flavours are becoming more popular across many different cuisines and cultures – which has undoubtedly influenced specialty coffee consumers’ preferences.

“I love it,” Felipe says. “If you follow what happened in the craft beer industry or the natural wine movement, I think these trends will remain. The spike in popularity is temporary, I’m sure about that, but I believe demand will continue to grow.”

The impact of more novel and advanced processing methods has been felt across the entire coffee supply chain over the past few years. So with more and more research undertaken to understand these techniques, do we have a clear definition of them – or are we even redefining them in a sense?

Generally speaking, the answer still remains unclear. But Jorge explains that no matter how an individual or farm defines their approach, it’s still important to try to showcase terroir and inherent characteristics.

He uses Gesha as a specific example: “We process this variety as ‘plain natural’ because anaerobic fermentation results in very fruity profiles. You don’t always want those types of flavours in a Gesha – customers usually expect very floral and elegant tasting notes, which is what we want to showcase. 

“Meanwhile, varieties and species like Sudan Rume, Laurina, or eugenioides often better suit anaerobic fermentation, compared to natural, washed, or honey processing, for instance,” he adds.

Have experimental processing methods even become more mainstream?

Although the prevalence of processing methods such as anaerobic fermentation, lactic fermentation, and carbonic maceration still remains relatively small in the context of the wider coffee industry, their presence is notably increasing. Could we therefore be reaching a point where these techniques could even become mainstream?

Given that the Specialty Coffee Association’s Green Coffee Course module now covers controlled fermentation, this is clearly a sign that times are changing – and fermented flavours are no longer seen to be strictly defects.

At the same time, however, “mainstream” could be too strong of a term. But it certainly appears that wider acceptance of and encouragement to implement novel and advanced processing methods has opened doors to further experimentation, such as thermal shock and infused coffees. 

The former involves controlling the temperature of different fermentations to influence the final cup profile. The latter, meanwhile, is when producers add ingredients such as fruit pulp, aged beans, and essential oils to coffee to infuse new flavours.

Infused coffees in particular have caused some division between producers and other industry professionals, especially in regards to whether they should be considered experimentally processed or something else entirely.

“We want to highlight variety genetics and terroir, so we don’t add any yeast, infusion ingredients, or artificial flavours,” Jorge says. 

This argument does, however, raise an interesting discussion about whether we don’t always have to define experimental processing methods by exerting rigorous control over different variables. Instead, producers may be able to make more holistic choices which best suit their needs.

So what does this mean for the industry?

There’s no denying that specialty coffee has embraced experimental processing techniques. But with standards and protocols evolving and changing, what are some of the key considerations we need to keep in mind?

With regards to infused and flavoured coffees in particular, Jorge flags some ethical concerns about transparency with labelling.

“If you sell infused or flavoured coffee and neglect to clearly inform the customer, it harms specialty coffee,” he says. “[In my opinion], when farms add ingredients to create new flavours during experimental processing, they undo all of the effort put in during production because they are not accurately portraying the challenges behind growing coffee.”

Issues are not always just limited to ethics, however. If producers don’t tightly control variables, coffees can easily over-ferment. This leads to undesirable off-flavours like sour milk, rotten fruit, or low-quality wine.

As such, many farmers who carry out experimental processing do so in smaller batches, which allows them to change and control variables more effectively.

Weighing up the pros and cons

Not all producers have the capacity or resources to carry out experimental processing methods. But for those that do, the risk can still be high. Over or poor fermentation can lead to lower yields, not to mention the increased costs associated with these types of processing techniques.

“We should be very cautious about thinking these methods are easy for most producers,” Felipe believes. “In fact, it’s very dangerous to promote it without acknowledging the level of risk.”

One way that producers can absorb less risk is by partnering with roasters.

“I’ve worked with a few roasters in Panama who want to be more hands on with processing,” he adds. “They want to inoculate with yeasts, change temperatures, and use the tanks themselves – and pay an amount regardless of the result. 

“As a producer, I say of course, let’s do this together,” he concludes. “I think with these sorts of incentives, we can see more of these great tasting coffees with different sensory profiles.”

With experimentally processed coffees continuing to command high prices – and increasingly helping roasteries and baristas win the most prestigious industry competitions – their popularity is sure to grow. With this in mind, it’s important that the risk for producers is fairly minimised.

However we may define them, whether as an industry or as individuals, experimental processing methods are leaving their mark on specialty coffee. And the future seems promising.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how experimental processing can help producers overcome challenges.

Photo credits: La Palma Y El Tucan

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Despite its positive impact on coffee flavour and quality, however, the washed process is not without its limitations and challenges. One of the biggest that has been discussed for years now is the large amount of water required to carry out this process – which some producers already have little access to.

At the same time, coffee farmers have started to adapt to the ongoing effects of climate change. Depending on their geographical location, this could mean increased or reduced access to water sources. In turn, this could ultimately force them to “redefine” washed processing methods or find alternatives altogether.

To learn more, I spoke to Régine Léonie Guion-Firmin, a coffee quality expert, and George Ngure, a coffee specialist and washing station manager.

You may also like our article exploring trends in experimental coffee processing.

The washed process: A breakdown

Now more than ever, specialty coffee producers use many different processing methods. But no matter which ones they choose, the overall goal is to improve coffee quality and develop specific flavour profiles.

Alongside a growing number of experimental and advanced processing methods, there are also more traditional techniques. These are:

• Natural – the cherries are fully intact while drying (including skin and mucilage)
• Pulped natural – producers remove the outer skin and some mucilage from the cherries before drying
• Honey – various levels of mucilage are left on the cherries as they dry
  • Black: most similar to natural processing, with almost all mucilage left intact
  • Red: less mucilage left on cherries
  • Yellow: producers remove more mucilage compared to black and red honeys
  • White: similar to washed processing, when most mucilage is removed

In addition to these processing techniques, the washed process is one of the most popular in the coffee industry. Also known as wet processing, this method involves removing the fruit of the cherry, including the skin and pulp. This leaves only the parchment and silverskin on the beans.

The pulped coffee is then placed in water tanks, which helps to loosen any remaining mucilage. Here it technically ferments, but it’s not to be confused with intentional and controlled fermentation processing methods.

Following this, the wet parchment travels through washing channels. Running water and brushes push the coffee through the channels, while it’s also pre-graded according to density. In some cases, washed coffee is also soaked overnight to fully remove all mucilage. We refer to this as fully-washed coffee.

The final step of the process involves drying parchment coffee on raised beds before it is milled and ready for export.

Why is it so popular?

In certain producing countries, many farmers favour washed processing methods. One of the most notable is Kenya, which is largely down to the country’s colonial history.

Régine is also an authorised SCA trainer in Kenya. 

“Essentially, British colonial powers wanted to sell coffee on the market faster,” she says. This is because it is easier and quicker to dry washed coffees compared to other processing methods as you remove all the mucilage.

“Additionally, many people used to believe that natural processing was ‘bad’,” she adds – a statement which has of course now been widely disproved.

Across the global coffee industry, the washed process has become so popular because of the highly desirable sensory profile it tends to result in. Most washed coffees are well-balanced and bright with a very clean finish – and generally considered a “true expression” of terroir.

That doesn’t mean, however, that this process isn’t without its significant challenges.

“The washed process is expensive to carry out,” Régine says. “Drought or no drought, it’s expensive for producers.”

George manages a coffee factory (or wet mill) in Kenya.

“We were paying monthly water bills of up to 500,000 Kenyan shillings just for pulping and washing the coffee,” he says. “In that regard, we would rather switch to natural processing.”

This is because the washed processing method uses high volumes of water at almost every stage of the process. From pouring the cherries into the pulping machine to placing pulped cherries in fermentation tanks to transporting wet parchment coffee through washing channels, producers need access to a lot of water.

“And afterwards, you have to recycle the used water because you can’t put it back in rivers or lakes,” Régine adds. “The water is too acidic, so you would destroy wildlife and the ecosystem.”

Considering the impact of climate change

The amount of water needed for the washed process is huge. For a long time, rivers have been the main sources of water, which is why many wet mills are built close to them. Over the past decade, however, many rivers around the world have been gradually drying up due to the ongoing effects of climate change.

This has left wet mill workers with little choice but to find alternative water sources. One option is to dig boreholes, which are narrow shafts drilled into the ground either vertically or horizontally. But for many producers and co-operatives, this is an expensive practice – not to mention that the water extracted from boreholes must be purified, which only adds to costs.

With dwindling water supplies, more farmers have started to use other processing methods which use less water – especially the natural process.

“I don’t need to employ as many people to dry cherries, as opposed to pulping, washing, and then drying,” George says.

He adds that a growing number of traders and roasters who buy Kenyan coffee are also starting to see more value in other processing techniques.

“We used to sell a honey processed coffee called Kaldi City Roast for US $24 per retail bag, whereas our washed coffee sold for US $16,” he explains. “What’s more, we didn’t require extra workers to wash and pre-grade the honey processed coffee, which helped reduce costs.”

The future of the washed process

We can safely assume that the washed processing method will never go out of style. However, with sustainability increasingly at the forefront of issues in the coffee industry, it’s clear that more producers are also looking for alternative ways to process their coffees.

And in countries like Kenya – where the washed process has been so popular for so long – this is particularly groundbreaking.

“Most of our customers who previously bought washed coffee switched to honey processed and natural coffees when we introduced them, regardless of the price,” George explains. “We were amazed at how the less labour-intensive coffees were fetching higher prices.”

Régine agrees that farmers and co-operatives should be open to exploring other processing methods.

“Times change and producers need to see beyond that,” she says. “They should try using different processing methods – honey, natural, anaerobic fermentation, carbonic maceration, and more.

“And if buyers can’t come to us, we go to them through Instagram, Facebook and other social media channels,” she adds. “Very few farmers even have a Facebook page! It’s time for them to utilise social media to their advantage.”

Supporting producers with their decisions

No matter which processing methods producers use, they should always receive the right level of support from other industry stakeholders. But for some smallholders, diversifying processing techniques could be integral to improving sustainable practices – and potentially receiving higher prices.

In line with this, more formal training and educational opportunities on how to carry out different processing methods are essential, or producers could risk reducing coffee quality. In the context of Kenya, however, many co-operative members and managers still don’t have enough access to information about how to successfully implement techniques other than the washed process.

“You can carry out more variations of the natural process, such as anaerobic fermentation or carbonic maceration, so why not do it?” Régine asks. “In Kenya, we tend to think washed processing is good, while natural processed coffee is Mbuni – which is a negative term in Swahili. But this attitude needs to change.”

The washed process will forever be one of the most popular in specialty coffee – revered for the bright, clean flavour profiles it produces.

However, with the impact of climate change forcing farmers to adapt to new and existing challenges, we could see some of them opt for processing methods which have less of an environmental footprint.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how experimental coffee processing techniques can help producers overcome challenges.

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One of these methods is lactic fermentation: a process championed by the innovative La Palma y El Tucán in Colombia. Classified as anaerobic fermentation, the process involves creating an ideal environment for the growth of lactobacillus cultures. This usually results in a creamier mouthfeel, as well as more yoghurt-like flavours.

So considering how lactic fermentation can impact sensory profiles, it’s also fair to assume that these coffees need to be roasted and brewed in different ways to highlight their best characteristics.

To find out more, I spoke with Felipe Sardi, co-founder of La Palma y El Tucán, and Christopher Feran, coffee industry consultant and expert. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article exploring trends in experimental coffee processing.

What is lactic fermentation?

Although lactic fermentation is a relatively novel processing method in the specialty coffee sector, it’s certainly not new to the food industry. For centuries, professional chefs and home cooks alike have been using fermentation to preserve different foods – or even enhance flavour. Some common lacto-fermented foods include:

• Pickles
• Kimchi
• Sauerkraut
• Yoghurt
• Certain cheeses
• Kombucha
• Sourdough bread
• Specific types of hot sauce

So let’s break down what lactic fermentation is. Essentially, it’s a type of anaerobic fermentation, which means no oxygen is present during the process. The dominant microorganisms are Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB), which thrive in oxygen-free environments. LAB converts simple carbohydrates into lactic acid – as well as carbon dioxide, ethanol, and sometimes acetic acid.

Felipe Sardi is the co-founder and CEO of La Palma y El Tucán in the mountains of Zipacon, Cundinamarca in Colombia. In 2019, seasoned coffee professional World Barista Champion Jooyeon Jeon used a Sidra coffee from La Palma y El Tucán in her winning routine, which helped to cement its position as a pioneering specialty coffee farm.

He explains how they developed their own lactic fermentation process.

“After depulping the cherries, the coffee is sealed in tanks to remove (or significantly decrease) the presence of oxygen during the fermentation process,” he says. “This allows facultative anaerobic lactic acid bacteria like Leuconostoc mesenteroides – which is naturally present on the beans – to rapidly multiply and consume the sugars in the mucilage. This produces lactic acid. 

“Compared to natural processing, up to 90% of glucose and fructose are removed from the beans,” he adds. “The drop in pH level from the increase in lactic acid also triggers enzymatic reactions, which can impact flavour, too. We closely monitor variables like temperature and pH at multiple stages to control fermentation.”

Finding the best method

In specialty coffee, there are two primary lactic fermentation methods that producers currently use: either inoculating with a specific LAB starter or using a 2-3% salt brine. Both are implemented in a low-oxygen environment under strict control to promote healthy LAB growth. 

Christopher Feran is a coffee consultant, green buyer, roaster, and lapsed Q-grader. He explains in detail how these processes work. 

“LAB are halotolerant or halophilic, which means they grow or thrive in high-saline conditions,” he says. “This obviously gives these bacteria an advantage compared to microbes that are halophobic or require oxygen.

“I believe the best method for lactic fermentation is the one that achieves the desired result in the most reliable, safe, and economical way,” he adds. “In most cases, using a 2% salt brine is sufficient to produce a good cup profile. But for producers who have the resources, inoculation is certainly the most reliable and repeatable method.”

Felipe tells me how La Palma y El Tucán developed its lactic fermentation processing method in a way that highlights the farm’s unique terroir.

“We found that strict anaerobic conditions and extended fermentation times beyond 80 hours produce the best results,” he says. “We also adapted our process based on field observations. For example, lowering temperature will inhibit fungal growth which can create undesirable flavours.”

What’s the impact on coffee flavour and mouthfeel?

When drinking lactic fermented coffees, there are notable differences in flavour and texture. Research has shown that using LAB during processing will produce more distinctive floral, fruity, creamy, and buttery flavour notes, as well as a creamier mouthfeel. 

“Based on our experience, lactic fermentation can create more intense sweetness,” Felipe says. “Lactic fermented coffees also have more notes of chocolate and butter, and a more velvety body. 

“The high lactic acid content contributes directly to the coffee’s sensory profile,” he adds. “These are highly distinctive flavours which aren’t typically found in conventionally processed coffees.”

Christopher, meanwhile, points out that there are many types of lactic fermentation. Each one can influence the final cup profile and overall sensory experience in different ways.

“For example, you can ferment cherries before using a pulped lactic fermentation process, or implement a carbonic maceration-style processing method,” he says. “It’s difficult to generalise lactic fermentation.

“The results vary depending on how you develop your processing technique,” Christopher adds. “Salt-lactic fermentations using dried cherries tend to result in brighter and more complex coffees with a creamier mouthfeel. In comparison, pulped lactic fermentations usually produce brighter and more floral and tropical flavours.”

How to roast & brew lacto-fermented coffees

Roast profile development is based on a wide range of variables, but processing methods are one of the most prominent. 

Felipe believes lactic fermented coffees can benefit from roast profiles which enhance sweetness and chocolate flavours. 

“Pour over brewing methods can also help highlight more of the unique and subtle flavours,” he explains. “Since these processing methods are so novel, leveraging specialist and customised roasting and brewing techniques is useful.”

Why interest in these coffees is increasing

Like other processing methods, lactic fermentation can provide certain benefits to some producers. For instance, one study from 2016 showed that these techniques can improve the fermentation process itself – as well as increase quality and cup score.

“The complex flavours and aromas created during lactic fermentation seem to have the potential to improve quality, but it requires in-depth knowledge and a lot of trial-and-error to achieve desirable results and no defects,” Felipe tells me. “When done properly, we have found that lactic fermentation can increase the quality of coffee which has more unique flavours.

“However, the process may not improve the flavour profile for more traditional coffee drinkers,” he adds.

On another note, Christopher tells me the lactic fermentation process isn’t a be-all and end-all solution to improving coffee quality.

“I don’t believe that processing is a silver bullet,” he says. “If a producer is using other methods, lactic fermentation can be a cleaner and safer alternative, but I would argue that the process differentiates a coffee rather than improves it.”

Will lactic fermented coffees continue to be popular in the future?

Lactic fermentation and other experimental processing methods will undoubtedly continue to progress and evolve. As a result, they are sure to have a positive impact on the specialty coffee sector – and remain popular, too.

“Many lactic fermentations are easy to execute and are lower risk than other advanced processing methods,” Christopher tells me. “Additionally, they require more simple and widely available materials, such as sea salt, so it’s likely they will grow in popularity.”

While Felipe agrees, he adds that lacto-fermented coffees will largely remain a more niche segment of the specialty coffee market.

“As processing techniques improve and consumer awareness increases, lactic coffees certainly seem poised to become more popular among specialty coffee enthusiasts who are looking for new experiences,” he says. “However, given the complexity and the degree of control required, these techniques are likely to be a smaller part of the wider market.

“But for producers who are focused on innovation and creating distinctive flavours, lactic fermentation offers a promising path forward,” he concludes.

It takes plenty of dedication, knowledge, and time to carry out lactic fermentation to the highest standards. But Felipe and Christopher both believe these processing methods are some of the most reliable and economical ways to change coffee flavour and mouthfeel.

When done right, there are clear advantages to implementing such techniques. Without the right resources and level of knowledge, however, producers may struggle to see as much success as they would hope to.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee roasting and experimental processing methods.

Photo credits: La Palma y El Tucan

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On top of this, the number of producers growing more exclusive arabica varieties (or even different species) has been increasing, too. In turn, the specialty coffee sector is becoming even more exciting.

However, with more producers taking a similar approach, is it becoming more difficult for them to differentiate their coffee?

To find out, I spoke with two coffee producers and a green coffee buyer. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why more producers don’t market their coffee.

Keeping up with innovation in coffee processing

It’s often said that post-harvest processing practices are responsible for up to 60% of overall coffee quality. But not only that, processing methods have a huge impact on coffee flavour and mouthfeel.

In line with this, experimental processing methods have become immensely popular in specialty coffee. By tweaking and tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create exciting, deeply complex flavours in their coffee. In some cases, they can even increase cup scores.

It’s then no wonder that producers – especially those who have the resources and right level of support – are trying out new processing methods. Some of these include carbonic maceration, lactic fermentation, and anaerobic fermentation, which are all quickly becoming more and more common in specialty coffee.

Jamie Jongkind is the European sales manager at Nordic Approach. He says innovation in processing methods is a natural progression of the specialty coffee market.

“Processing methods which were once thought to be novel are now the new baseline, which helps to drive innovation,” he tells me. “As long as the level of innovation is reasonable, roasters will keep buying these coffees. As a result, they push the industry to do better.”

Growing rare varieties

In recent years, another noticeable way that producers have started to differentiate their coffees is by growing rare and exclusive arabica varieties. Some of these include:

• Gesha – often considered the darling of specialty coffee
• Sidra – an unknown variety believed to have come from a breeding facility Ecuador
• Pink Bourbon – which won the 2023 World Barista Championship 
• Sudan Rume – used by 2015 World Barista Champion Sasa Sestic in his winning routine
• Java – an Ethiopian landrace variety with high quality potential
• Laurina – a naturally low-caf variety which won the 2018 World Brewers Cup

While it is certainly more difficult to successfully grow some of these varieties, there are benefits to doing so – including higher prices in some cases.

José Giraldo is a third-generation coffee producer and the founder of Café 1959 in Colombia – a farm which has been growing coffee for more than 50 years. 

He explains that in Colombia there has been somewhat of an evolution in the coffee sector. Increasingly, producers are focusing on growing rare varieties and carrying out novel processing techniques.

He says between the 1970s and 1990s, Colombia was mostly known for producing milder-tasting coffees such as Caturra and some Typica varieties.

“More and more Colombian producers are growing native Ethiopian varieties like Gesha and Wush Wush, other varieties like SL 28, Sidra, and Mokka, or even species like eugenioides,” José explains. “A growing number of producers are also using natural, anaerobic fermentation, or carbonic maceration processing methods.”

So is it becoming harder for producers to differentiate their coffees?

With more producers than ever before now implementing experimental processing methods and growing rarer varieties, is it becoming more difficult for them to stand out in the market? 

Jamie actually believes it’s becoming easier.

“With producers using more innovative processing techniques, it’s now more accessible for a wider range of producers to differentiate themselves by offering a bigger selection of coffees or by having more unique protocols which are more suitable to their terroir,” he says.

José agrees, saying that better access to the internet is helping producers to drive innovation on farms.

“Today, farmers have much more access to a lot of information and resources so they can discuss different varieties or processing methods with each other,” he says. 

However, that’s not to say producers don’t face challenges when it comes to differentiating their coffees.

“‘Trending’ coffees and processing methods change so fast – even between harvests – which makes it even more difficult to forecast what’s coming next,” José says. “I think this is driving producers to innovate and create novel processing methods or plant different varieties to stand out in a highly competitive market.”

Jorge Raul Rivera is a second-generation coffee producer at Finca Santa Rosa in El Salvador, which predominantly grows Pacamara.

“People are paying high prices for Gesha, so it’s a trendy specialty coffee variety,” he says. “People want what’s trendy.”

Is there growing pressure on farmers to innovate?

Continuous innovation is key to driving growth in the specialty coffee market. However, demand for more “exciting” coffees is undoubtedly putting an increasing amount of pressure on producers.

For instance, deciding to implement a new processing method or grow a different variety can involve serious risk that producers may need to absorb themselves. Farmers ultimately need to ensure they can find buyers for these new coffees. At the same time, they also may need to make some difficult choices when carrying out these new farming practices – as well as investing significant amounts of money upfront.

“This situation is sometimes more dangerous than pests or diseases,” José tells me. “It’s a huge investment in terms of money and time. And it’s not always guaranteed that producers will receive a premium price just because they grow this variety.”

Helping absorb risk

Jamie acknowledges there is growing pressure on producers to become more innovative. But, he believes roasters are also becoming more aware of how much work they are asking from producers.

“The hype about having new varieties every other year – which is largely driven by roasters – seems to have been replaced by a bigger emphasis on processing methods, which for the producer is much easier to handle,” he says.

Jamie explains that Nordic Approach follows certain procedures to ensure producers can sustainably carry out these processing methods. This begins by working closely with producers to understand their specific motivations, abilities, and skills, as well as the equipment and resources they already have access to.

Following this, Jamie adds that Nordic Approach helps producers to make sure experimental processing methods are controlled. However, he stresses it’s important to also clearly communicate that it’s not always guaranteed they can replicate results. Pre-contracting and pre-financing coffees can also help to ensure producers don’t bear the brunt of the financial risk.

Ultimately, trying new processing methods means producers must have a deep understanding of different market needs, as well as the willingness and ability to experiment with different variables.

José, meanwhile, says that scaling new experimental processing methods can be a huge risk, but the results are sometimes worth it.

“You need to try different things to get different results,” he says. “It can be difficult, but if you account for the responsibility of all the supply chain stakeholders, you can reduce the risk.”

Quality comes first

For any coffee business, standing out from competitors is vital – and this includes producers, too.

However, Jorge explains that farmers’ financial risks will increase more if they don’t focus on quality first and foremost.

“I don’t think farmers lose money if they don’t differentiate their coffee,” he says. “I think they lose money if they don’t strive for and prioritise quality.

“If you are able to produce coffee that stays fresher for longer and has desirable flavour notes then people are likely to pay more for that coffee,” he adds.

Is it possible to become even more experimental?

With so many innovative processing methods used in specialty coffee now, it’s important to ask just how much room there is for further growth and experimentation.

Jamie says that similar to the wine and tea industries, there is always space for more innovation.

“The coffee industry has never stopped developing, but previously the space for growth was smaller,” he tells me. “Now, there are influences from across the value chain, as well from other industries. I don’t think innovation in specialty coffee will ever stop.”

Jorge, however, thinks experimentation (especially with processing methods) should remain as natural and localised as possible. 

“We were talking to a microbiologist in Colombia. He carries out fermentation with local microbes on the coffee farm, which I believe is the right way to do things,” he says. “Some people use yeast and bacteria that comes from other parts of the world, which I think can create imbalance as nature takes its own course.”

Additionally, Jamie points out that we must keep social and environmental sustainability in mind when pushing for innovation in specialty coffee.

“We have the opportunity to not only demand the next ‘big thing’, but to simultaneously incorporate sustainability and ethics across the supply chain,” he tells me. “We want to make sure value is created out of respect for shared effort, dedication, and vision.”

In an ever-growing competitive market, it’s essential that producers stand out and showcase their highest-quality coffees.

But as the specialty coffee industry continues to diversify, and producers continue to use new processing methods and varieties, it’s important we keep the right approach in mind. Ultimately, there needs to be a balance between innovation and sustainability.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how producers can define sensory profiles for their coffee.

Photo credits: Zacharias Elias Abubeker, Jorge Raul Rivera

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So considering that different processing techniques have such significant influence over sensory profiles, it also makes sense that certain processing methods work better when paired with different brewing methods.  

One example is natural processed coffee and espresso. With natural processing methods resulting in fruitier flavours and a more pronounced body, these coffees tend to work well as espresso.

So, what do coffee professionals need to know when using natural coffees for espresso? To find out, I spoke to Leif An, founder and head roaster at Stereoscope Coffee, and Altuğ Baser, founder and head roaster at BOXX Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article on coffee roasting and experimental processing methods.

What is natural processing?

First and foremost, let’s break down what natural processing is.

Believed to be one of the oldest processing methods, this technique (also known as dry processing) is relatively straightforward to carry out. However, if not implemented to high standards, it can be difficult to achieve consistently good results with natural processing methods.

Essentially, the process involves a few simple steps:

• After cherries are harvested and sorted, they are placed on raised beds or patios to dry in the sun
  • The cherries are left completely intact. This includes the fruit and mucilage (the sticky layer between the outer skin and parchment that surrounds the seed, or bean)
• Farm workers leave the cherries to dry until they reach between 11% and 12% moisture content
  • Producers and farm workers need to frequently turn the cherries while they’re drying to avoid mould development
• Once dried, the cherries are depulped and hulled – and turned into green coffee ready for export

It’s safe to say there’s a lot of risk involved with natural processing methods. As this technique so heavily relies on plenty of sunlight and warm, dry weather conditions, the cherries need to dry within a certain amount of time. If not, the chance of over-fermentation increases significantly. This results in more unpleasant flavour notes, including overripe fruit or sour yoghurt. Conversely, the cherries can also dry too much – which can lead to a number of problems, such as uneven roast development.

When done right, however, natural processing methods can create more interesting and “funky” fruit flavours, as well as an enhanced body and velvety mouthfeel. In turn, a growing number of specialty coffee shops and roasters are including more and more natural processed coffees on their menus.

Using natural processed coffees for espresso

Natural processed coffees certainly work well as both filter and espresso. But there are several reasons why the latter brewing method helps to highlight the more desirable characteristics of natural processing methods.

As many baristas know, it can be difficult to achieve consistent results when extracting washed and experimentally processed coffees as espresso. Leif explains that this could be a result of roast profiles.

“It’s usually easier to develop roast profiles for natural processed coffees, more so than washed coffees,” he says. “This means it’s usually easier to replicate flavour profiles.

“With washed coffees, it can be difficult to develop roast profiles enough sometimes,” he adds. “This underdevelopment then affects espresso extraction because the washed process results in brighter and cleaner flavours. It’s harder to dial in these coffees as espresso is more concentrated, so trying to balance out brightness can be trickier.”

Altuğ, meanwhile, tells me how roasting in larger batches can impact roast profile development – and thereby the final cup profile.

“When roasting washed coffee in big batches, you need to roast at higher temperatures,” he says. “Natural coffees, however, require less heat, so they are often easier to roast – which can produce better results when prepared as espresso.”

Both Leif and Altuğ say Stereoscope and BOXX always have a natural processed coffee on bar.

“The flavour profiles of these coffees are more suited to people who are not familiar with specialty coffee,” Leif tells me. “They’re a lot sweeter and fruitier, so it’s like a gateway to drinking more specialty coffee.”

What about milk-based beverages?

In recent years, more and more coffee businesses have started creating roast profiles for milk-based drinks to complement coffee’s inherent characteristics. So considering natural processed coffees already have more prominent sweet flavours, do they pair well with milk?

“Washed processed coffees can sometimes taste astringent as espresso, which can lead to unpleasant flavours when you add milk,” Leif says. “It’s much easier to make a good cappuccino or cortado with natural processed coffees, and the flavours tend to resonate more with customers.”

Altuğ agrees, saying that natural processed coffees often have more lactic flavours and creamier mouthfeel. These sensory descriptors often denote more of the sour and acidic characteristics of yoghurt, which can work with milk-based beverages – as long as the coffee is extracted well.

Tips and advice on using natural coffees for espresso

No matter which processing method is used for a specific coffee, Leif tells me baristas should focus on highlighting its innate characteristics.

“Coffee has unique flavours depending on how it’s grown, processed, and roasted,” he says. “Baristas should focus more on trying to highlight inherent flavours, and not so much on trying to bring out a certain flavour.

“It’s best to cup the coffee to understand its full potential, regardless of which brewing method you use,” he adds.

However, when it comes to natural processed coffee specifically, there are certain factors baristas need to keep in mind.

Based on his experience, Leif says the degassing period for natural coffees usually takes longer than other processing methods. For comparison, he explains that while he finds washed coffees often take about two weeks to fully degas, natural processed coffees will typically degas in about three weeks. This then makes it easier to extract more of the coffee’s flavours.

Tweaking extraction variables

Leif also suggests extracting natural processed coffees as espresso for longer to better highlight sweetness. Moreover, the natural process tends to result in a slightly higher moisture content than washed processing methods, which can impact the solubility of the coffee. In line with this, using a slightly finer grind size can help to achieve better-tasting and more consistent results.

Increasing the yield for natural processed coffees can also produce sweeter and fruitier flavours in the cup. Altuğ suggests starting with a 1:2.5 water to ground coffee ratio, and then tweaking accordingly from there.

Over the past few years, we can see that specialty coffee has certainly embraced natural processing methods. More and more coffee shops and roasters are offering natural processed coffees – both as filter or espresso.

But when preparing as espresso in particular, it’s important to treat natural processed coffees differently to other processing methods. That way, these coffees can truly shine – and customers can potentially experience completely new flavour profiles.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring naturals, pulped naturals, and honey processed coffees.

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Depending on geographical location and climatic conditions, the blooming season begins at different times. One thing, however, is for sure: the flowers will eventually fall off the coffee plant.

What happens to coffee flowers next is largely up to producers. But with a growing number of farmers looking to diversify their income by upcycling coffee waste, there could be an opportunity to make better use of coffee flowers – and thereby also produce less waste.

To find out more, I spoke to Lívia Macarini Pereira, an Agronomic Specialist at Daterra Coffee in Brazil, and Brandon von Damitz, coffee producer and co-founder of Big Island Coffee Roasters in Hawaii. Read on to learn more.

You may also like our article on why coffee plants flower & what it means for producers.

Why do coffee plants flower?

In general, coffee plants start to flower around three to four years after planting. The blooming phase then lasts for approximately two to three months. Each bud can develop up to four flowers, which grow in clusters along the axis (stem) of the leaves.

Lívia explains that the flowering stage is an essential part of coffee production.

“For coffee plants, the male and female gametes are located at the same flower,” she says. A gamete is a reproductive cell of an animal or a plant.

Although arabica is a self-pollinating plant, robusta plants rely on cross-pollination to reproduce.

“Flowers are colourful and contain nectar, which attracts insects that assist with the pollination process,” she adds. “Insects transfer pollen from the male structures to the female ones, which is essential to the robusta plant’s reproduction.”

Before coffee plants can flower, Lívia tells me that they need heavy rain.

“The blooming phase begins once coffee plants intake a lot of water,” she says.

Brandon also explains that weather plays a key role in the onset of coffee flowering. 

“After one to two months of dry weather (which is defined as less than half of the monthly average precipitation levels), flowers will emerge following heavy rainfall,” he tells me. “Coffee plants produce the most flowers around one to two months after the harvest season has ended.”

Temperature is also an essential factor for coffee plant growth. The ideal temperature range for the flowering process to begin is between 19ºC and 24ºC (68ºF and 75.2ºF).

Following the first rains of the season, buds on coffee plants will start to flower. In order for the plants to grow healthy and strong, they need to be left undisturbed. As such, it’s common for most workers to leave the farm during this period.

What happens when the flowers fall off coffee plants?

One of the most important factors when it comes to the flowering of coffee plants is uniformity. Essentially, consistent blooming on coffee plants indicates that the cherries will also ripen at a similar rate – which means producers can harvest higher-quality coffee and have to spend less time hand picking ripe cherries off plants.

“Flowers are a promise of future fruit,” Brandon tells me. “A big, healthy set of flowers is what every coffee farmer wants to see on their plants because it also indicates a big, healthy yield potential.

“Flowers also signify how producers need to take care of their coffee plants, including monitoring and preventing the spread of the coffee berry borer,” he adds.

These insects feed on coffee cherries, and some species even feed on the seeds – and thereby potentially decrease coffee quality and yields.

“Farmers also need to be prepared to apply fertilisers and implement other plant treatment protocols as the cherries begin to form and mature,” Brandon says.

However, despite healthy growth and uniform blooming, it’s inevitable that the flowers will fall off the plants at some point.

“Following the peak blooming period, flowers will remain on the plant, but will then wither and darken,” Lívia tells me. “The flowers will then fall off, and will quickly start to decompose on the ground.

“Essentially, they are naturally recycled as compost, which releases nutrients into the soil,” she adds.

Both Lívia and Brandon note that coffee flower petals in particular decompose at a faster rate to other plant tissues as they contain higher nutrient concentrations. Coffee plants will then absorb these nutrients, which contribute to overall healthy growth.

How else could producers use coffee flowers?

With a growing focus on reducing waste in the coffee industry, some coffee professionals have started to find new ways to recycle byproducts – including at the production stage. Some of these include:

• Selling cascara (the pulp and skin of the coffee fruit) as tea
• Repurposing coffee husk (the skin, mucilage, pulp, and parchment of the coffee cherry) into products such as biocomponents, bacterial inhibitors, biogas, food production, and animal feed
• Using coffee leaves as ingredients in perfumes, facial cleansers, deodorisers, and tobacco substitutes

Although these products can be useful ways to reduce waste in coffee production, they are all very minor revenue streams in comparison to selling coffee. In turn, they often represent more of a side project for producers, rather than a major driver for income.

However, it’s important to note that unlike other coffee waste byproducts, flowers can be used as natural fertilisers. Ultimately, this means that they already contribute to a circular economy model in the coffee industry.

But that’s not to say producers aren’t able to repurpose coffee flowers to potentially diversify their income. One of the most common ways to reuse coffee flowers is to sell them as tea or as other beverages, including kombucha.

Using coffee flowers for tea & herbal infusions

Brandon explains that Big Island Coffee Roasters uses flower petals to create its coffee blossom tea. He says this is a herbal infusion which contains dried coffee flowers, as well as other ingredients, which can be steeped in hot water.

“Once the flowers begin to wilt, they can be harvested directly from the plant,” Brandon says. “The resulting tea is delicate, sweet, and floral.”

To prepare coffee blossom tea, he recommends using 1g of dried coffee blossoms per 200g of water, with a steep time of ten minutes.

“We use very few flowers in each batch of coffee blossom tea – we can basically only collect the flowers in the right climatic conditions,” Brandon adds. “Time is of the essence, and most producers and farm workers are usually too busy with other activities to collect and dry coffee flowers.”

Processing methods

With experimental processing methods becoming increasingly popular in specialty coffee – including infused and flavoured coffees – some farmers have started to incorporate coffee flowers in their post-harvest processing techniques.

Lívia tells me that in 2018, Daterra collected flower petals as part of an experiment to control flavour profile and enhance coffee quality. 

“We harvested some flowers right after they had blossomed, and then added them to dried coffee cherries in two different conditions: aerobic (with oxygen) and anaerobic (without oxygen),” she says. “The results were amazing – both conditions led to an increase in cup score and flavour complexity. 

“However, we harvested the flowers at their most crucial phase, which damaged the flowering process completely,” she adds.

The flowering phase is a crucial period in the growth cycle of coffee plants. However, at the same time, it’s clear that producers can also use coffee flowers to add more value to their products.

Moreover, income diversification can be valuable for coffee farmers. But ultimately, the growing market for selling coffee flowers – whether as tea or other products – still remains very small.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on a Brazilian roastery’s coffee flower kombucha.

Photo credits: Lívia Macarini Pereira

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Traditionally, coffee is processed using washed, natural, and honey processing methods. In certain Asian countries, other processing methods such as wet hulling (or Giling Basah) and Monsoon Malabar have also been in use for decades.

However, now more than ever, there are a seemingly endless number of ways to process coffee. From anaerobic fermentation to carbonic maceration, these experimental processing methods help to enhance coffee flavour – and even create new ones.

Flavoured and infused coffees are also part of this conversation. This is when producers purposefully introduce other ingredients when processing coffee so that the green beans absorb or take on certain sensory attributes.

But as part of the broader discussion on how these coffees can fit into the specialty sector, it’s important that we differentiate between the two. To learn more, I spoke with three coffee professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on issues with infused coffees.

What are flavoured and infused coffees?

It can be difficult to define exactly what infused and flavoured coffees are. There are no formal industry terms for these coffees, so definitions are largely down to personal opinions.

Nanelle Newbom is the Sales West representative at Equal Exchange. She is also a roaster and green buyer at Torque Coffees. She explains what she considers to be a flavoured coffee.

“It’s when you add other separate ingredients to either green or roasted coffee in order to create a new flavour,” she says. “In my opinion, altering the flavour of a coffee by adding yeast strains or controlling the levels of oxygen during processing doesn’t create a flavoured coffee.

“However, I think adding certain ingredients, such as cinnamon sticks, to the fermentation tank during processing results in a flavoured coffee,” she adds.

Another important point that Nanelle raises is whether the ingredients added are natural or artificial.

“For many coffee professionals, the difference between adding natural and artificial ingredients is more of a sliding scale,” she explains. “The answer is not always so clear because what we define as a flavoured coffee can differ greatly, it doesn’t necessarily make a conflicting opinion incorrect.”

Comparisons to infused coffees

Saša Šestić is the founder of ONA Coffee and Project Origin. He is also the 2015 World Barista Champion and an expert in fermentation processing techniques – particularly carbonic maceration. In 2021, Saša wrote two articles for Perfect Daily Grind: one about issues with infused coffees and the other answering common questions about infused coffees.

Saša explains his definition of an infused coffee. 

“It’s the addition of particular ingredients and flavourings,” he tells me. “These could be essential oils, spices, acids, herbs, fruits, vegetables, or any other ingredient. We must be able to detect the presence of these ingredients or flavourings in the final beverage.

“Infusion can happen during fermentation, when the coffee is drying on patios, during storage, or in barrels,” he adds. “Coffee can be infused when it’s green, or after roasting, or even once the coffee is ground.”

Nanelle, meanwhile, believes that infused coffees are mainly created when you add ingredients or flavourings during processing.

What about barrel aged coffee?

Barrel aged coffee is another form of flavoured coffee. This involves placing green coffee inside of barrels which have been used to manufacture beverages such as whiskey, wine, rum, and other alcoholic drinks.

Steven Restrepo is the Head of Coffee at Café de Colita. He explains the purpose of barrel ageing coffee.

“You want the green coffee to absorb some of the flavours of the barrel,” he tells me.

As green coffee is highly susceptible to a number of environmental conditions, the wood of the barrel will influence the flavours in the coffee. Typically, this practice results in fruity, fermented and more “funky” flavour notes which are often indicative of the product which was previously made in the barrel.

“I roasted a few batches of barrel aged coffee a few years ago,” Nanelle says. “People were really interested in it, and it sold very well as both retail bags and by the cup.

“Personally, I prefer smelling this coffee over drinking it, but it certainly generated a lot of interest,” she adds.

So what are the differences between infused and flavoured coffees?

The definitions of both flavoured and infused coffees largely rely on the opinions of coffee professionals. In turn, gaining a clear understanding of the key differences between the two is difficult.

“Flavoured coffees are those which have been modulated using fermentation and the addition of yeasts and bacteria, as well as by adding artificial flavours,” Steven says. 

While Saša believes that infusion can happen at any stage of the supply chain, Steven thinks otherwise.

“Infused coffees are ones which have been infused with artificial flavours after roasting,” he explains.

Nanelle, meanwhile, provides another perspective.

“There are many coffees which include added supplements like CBD or collagen, for example,” she tells me. “These are often referred to as ‘infused’ coffees, but whether they are infused after roasting to avoid denaturing or otherwise destroying the additional supplement is relatively unknown.”

However, Nanelle further explains that the line between infusing and flavouring coffee can be blurred.

“For example, you can add yeast used for beer production into the fermentation tank, which I consider to be controlling the fermentation process, but not infusing the coffee,” she says. “But, I would consider adding hops during processing to result in infused coffee.

“People can also add different fruits, which blurs the line even further,” she adds. “Fruit is fermentable and produces different sugars which yeast strains feed on, but fruit also imparts its own flavours, so I would say it results in infused coffees.”

It’s clear that there are many challenges when it comes to defining the difference between infused and flavoured coffees. However, Saša expects that this will change in the future.

“I anticipate that as we learn more about the complexities of infused and flavoured coffees, the definitions will change and evolve,” he says.

Are these coffees beneficial to the specialty sector?

There is certainly an argument that infused and flavoured coffees can cause a number of issues, especially when it comes to a lack of transparency.

Nanelle says that ultimately, it comes down to whether or not the addition of flavour adds value.

“Any flavour or infusion added once the coffee reaches its export destination takes away value from producers,” she says. “It removes all the intrinsic value of terroir, farming best practices, and processing.

“Instead, it adds value for roasters by removing it from producers,” she adds.

Steven, meanwhile, says infused and flavoured coffees allow producers, traders, and roasters to offer a new kind of product.

“You can enhance flavour profiles without adding any ingredient to the roasted coffee,” he explains. “Our clients ask for personalised, unique products, so why not support farmers to achieve this? 

“As long as there is demand for these types of coffee, we will create them,” he adds.

Is there a market for these coffees?

Although opinions and preferences on flavoured and infused coffees are divided among industry professionals, Steven says that there is clearly a market for these types of coffees.

“What started our journey into fermentation processing techniques was our clients in China asking us to look into whisky-infused coffees,” he tells me.

After initial success, Steven explains he experimented with adding different ingredients.

“We used apple, orange, strawberry, chocolate, chewing gum, and lemon,” he adds. “But our best-selling infused and flavoured coffees are passion fruit and cinnamon.”

In addition to these coffees, Steven believes there is significant demand for extended fermentation processing techniques.

“Prolonged, controlled, or newer fermentation processing methods are all the rage in specialty coffee – demand is high and continues to increase,” he says. “China, South Korea, Japan, and Saudi Arabia are some of the leading markets for these coffees.”

Nanelle agrees, saying that demand from roasters and consumers alike is growing.

“Some of these coffees are more targeted towards the end customer, while some are geared more towards roasters,” she explains. “Even small or relatively newer roasters want to drive innovation and want to differentiate themselves.

“This puts producers in a strong position to market a newly expanding range of products – potentially at a higher price, too,” she adds.

Transparency is key

Many coffee professionals are in agreement that in order to obtain the most value from these coffees, there needs to be complete transparency about how they are flavoured or infused.

“For instance, if a roaster uses additives to flavour or infuse the coffee, then there needs to be open communication about this process so that no value is stripped from producers,” Nanelle explains.

Steven agrees, saying: “In my experience, some people aren’t transparent enough about their flavoured or infused coffees.

“We are open to sharing our techniques because it takes years to learn how to do it successfully – and even longer to master them.”

However, he emphasises that complete transparency about flavouring and infusion processes would be beneficial to the coffee sector.

“People who don’t fully understand the work that goes into these procedures – and thereby the uniqueness of these coffees – can often be quite negative about them,” he says. “But it’s a labour of love – you can’t create these coffees just to make money.”

While the coffee industry could certainly benefit from outlining a clear definition for both “infused” and “flavoured” coffees, it’s also evident that we need to understand more about both to assess their future in the coffee sector.

“Establishing clear industry standards is helpful, so as to not defame or devalue these coffees,” Nanelle concludes. “Moreover, we can increase people’s awareness of the coffees they are buying, selling, and consuming.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on answering some common questions about infused coffees.

Photo credits: Steven Restrepo

Perfect Daily Grind

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The post Is there a difference between infused and flavoured specialty coffee? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

However, as with any newly emerging coffee processing technique, farmers need to take great care when manipulating fermentation to process coffee. By tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create some truly wonderful flavours in their coffees and increase final cup scores.

But how can farmers do this in a way which balances success and profitability? To find out, I spoke with four industry experts to understand more about the process. Read on for more of their insight on fermentation and coffee flavour and quality.

You may also like our article on how to ensure consistency in coffee fermentation & processing.

What is fermentation?

Despite its recent growth in popularity in the specialty coffee sector, fermentation has long been a part of coffee production. 

All coffee undergoes some level of fermentation. As soon as cherries are harvested, the sugars and acids contained within the mucilage of the coffee fruit (a sticky, translucent substance which surrounds the seeds) begin to break down. This is largely where the sweetness in coffee derives from.

With washed coffee processing, farmers soak depulped cherries in water for several hours to remove any remaining flesh and mucilage. This usually results in a cleaner-tasting and brighter flavour profile, and can highlight more of the coffee’s acidity.

However, over the past few years, there has been an increasing focus on controlling fermentation during processing, as well as using selected microbes to facilitate fermentation. These methods can have a number of benefits, which include enhancing flavours and preserving them for longer. 

When we talk about fermentation, however, we must differentiate between the two main ways by which it takes place. These are anaerobic and aerobic fermentation – which are different due to the presence or absence of oxygen.

When including selected yeasts in coffee processing, the presence or absence of oxygen triggers various reactions, namely the growth or breakdown of a number of substrates. These substrates produce various chemical and volatile compounds, such as acids and alcohol.

In general, anaerobic fermentation is most common, whether the cherries are in sealed or open tanks. With open tanks, generally speaking, only the surface is exposed to oxygen, which means anaerobic fermentation occurs further down the tank. This allows the sugars to break down over a longer period of time, creating sweeter and more complex flavours.

In theory, the longer the duration of fermentation is, the more intense the flavours in the coffee will be. This is because more flavour compounds are created and transferred into the coffee beans over longer periods. However, it’s important that this process is controlled to facilitate the transfer of desirable flavours.

In order to carry out fermentation successfully, farmers can add selected microorganisms (which include yeasts and bacteria) to better facilitate fermentation. One of the most commonly used yeasts in the coffee industry is Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is also widely used to make bread, wine, and beer. 

However, in recent years, many coffee farmers have started to branch out and use different microorganisms, which can result in a number of different sensory profiles.

Camille Duez is the Coffee and Cocoa Fermentation Global Technical Support specialist at Lalcafé, a company which specialises in the development, production, and marketing of yeasts and bacteria.

“We develop and produce yeasts which are known to result in desirable flavour profiles in coffee,” she says. “Many of the flavours you perceive in fermented coffee are a result of the strain of yeast used in the process,” she explains. 

How can yeast inoculation affect coffee flavour and quality?

Although it’s often said that fermentation can help to enhance coffee quality and flavour, producers need to understand more about how the process works in order to carry it out successfully.

Dr. Renaud Boulanger is the coordinator of the Sensory Quality of Fresh and Processed Products department at the Mixt Research Unit at CIRAD, a French agronomic research institute.

“During fermentation, the breakdown of sugars and acids by the yeast produces aromatic and volatile compounds,” he says. “These compounds are then secreted into the water (also known as the fermentative medium) and are absorbed by the green coffee beans.”

Renaud explains that there are two ways this can happen.

“One way is through passive transfer,” he says. “Because of the difference in compound concentration between the water and the green coffee, the aromatic compounds move from the most concentrated area to the least concentrated.

“Active transfer, meanwhile, is when specific proteins allow the green coffee to absorb the aromatic compounds,” he adds.

But understanding which aromatic compounds are transferred from the yeast to green coffee beans is also equally important.

In a 2020 study entitled Transfer kinetics of labelled aroma compounds from liquid media into coffee beans during simulated wet processing conditions, the transfer of three compounds from yeast to green coffee was measured. 

The study analysed four different coffee samples, all of which had various amounts of pulp attached, including depulped cherries with no mucilage and parchment, as well as depulped cherries with only parchment.

The three compounds measured in the study were butanal, 2-phenylethanol, and isoamyl acetate. 

“We chose these compounds because they often result in more herbaceous, floral, and fruity flavours in coffee,” Renaud tells me. 

Specifically, butanal is responsible for apple, chocolate, and bread-like flavours in coffee, while the presence of 2-phenylethanol creates more floral notes. Isoamyl acetate, meanwhile, can produce more tropical flavour notes, such as banana.

The study found that out of all three compounds, the transfer of 2-phenylethanol was by far the highest at all levels of pulp attachment. However, all compounds produced by yeasts can transfer to green coffee, albeit at different rates and concentrations.

How can producers control the transfer of flavour?

In essence, the 2020 study indicates that using different yeasts during fermentation can exacerbate and heighten different flavours in coffee. This means producers can select different yeasts dependent on the sensory profile they want to create for a specific coffee.

Lalcafé produces six different yeast strains, which have different fermentative properties that in turn enhance a variety of flavour compounds in coffee. Ultimately, this means farmers can create a more diverse range of flavour profiles.

Jean Faleiros is the owner of Fazenda El Dorado in Alta Mogiana, Brazil. He tells me how he selects certain strains of yeast to create specific flavours in his coffee.

“If I want to create a more fruity flavour profile, with notes of red fruits, I use the Lalcafé Intenso yeast strain,” he says. “If I want to produce a more exotic sensory profile, I use the Lalcafé Oro strain. 

“For a more clean and bright coffee, I use the Lalcafé BSC yeast strain,” he adds, explaining that this Lalcafé strain helps to break down the mucilage on coffee cherries more quickly.

With regards to improving coffee quality, lactic acid bacteria are becoming more commonly used by producers to result in cleaner and brighter coffees, sometimes used alongside yeasts. 

“When using yeast, the body, flavours, sweetness, and complexity of a coffee can increase,” Camille explains. “When you also add lactic acid bacteria, such as Lalcafé Bactifresh product, you can also enhance the brightness and clarity of a coffee.”

Jean tells me: “In my experience, controlled fermentation using yeasts helped to improve the quality of my coffee, as well as creating flavour profiles that were previously impossible to produce without using inoculation.”

Ultimately, controlling the transfer of flavour during fermentation comes down to which types of flavours the farmer is looking to produce in a coffee. 

This is especially beneficial for producers as they can create more unique sensory experiences for a range of different markets – helping to differentiate their product and potentially meaning they can receive a higher price per pound for each lot.

“I know which flavour profile each of my customers prefers,” Jean says. “Each market has its own preferences, and using yeast helps me to create more specific and repeatable flavour profiles.”

However, it is important to note that many other variables will also influence coffee flavour and quality – such as coffee variety, altitude, and the nutrient content of the soil, for example. This means producers need to also keep these factors in mind when carrying out fermentation.

Moreover, as yeasts are living microorganisms, producers need to be mindful when using them.

“Yeasts are living single-celled microorganisms,” Camille says. “Essentially, this means it’s not easy to control everything during the fermentation process. 

“There are also a number of other factors which affect the final cup profile, including terroir, climatic conditions (such as temperature), cherry ripeness, and the quality of water used to grow and process coffee,” she adds.

Other considerations

Alongside influencing coffee quality and flavour, producers also need to take into account a number of other factors when using yeasts during fermentation.

“When carrying out anaerobic fermentation, for example, we need to control temperature, pressure, pH, and several other variables,” Jean says.

Furthermore, many producers also focus on the total fermentation time.

In theory, the longer the fermentation time, the more aromatic and volatile compounds will be absorbed by the green coffee.

In the Transfer kinetics of labelled aroma compounds from liquid media into coffee beans during simulated wet processing conditions study, the concentration of the 2-phenylethanol compound increased throughout fermentation when using Lalcafé’s Oro, Cima, and Intenso yeast strains.

However, the concentration of other compounds, namely isoamyl acetate, peaked at 24 hours and then began to steadily decline past this point during fermentation – meaning controlling total fermentation time has a significant effect on flavour.

Other processes also take place during fermentation, such as germination. This results in the degradation of certain flavour compounds, or even a reverse transfer of them. There has to be a balance – which is why fermentation duration is so key.

As well as fermentation time, the amount of pulp retained on the coffee cherries is also important to consider.

The results of the study also found that green coffee containing parchment (a paper-like skin covering the beans) absorbed less aromatic compounds created by the yeast. This is because parchment can act as a molecular filter, meaning producers may need to take this into account when fermenting their coffee.

With the exception of wet hull processing, parchment is kept on the coffee beans as they are processed. Removing the parchment could prove to unveil a range of new flavour profiles – but producers should be mindful that this could impact the roasting process, too.

Roasting fermented coffees

While producers certainly need to understand how fermentation affects coffee quality and flavour, roasters also have to know so they can optimise their roast profiles.

Pedro and João Foster are the co-owners of Fuzz Cafés in Rio de Janeiro. They have purchased coffee from Jean for some time.

“We have been roasting the Abacaxi ‘pineapple’ coffee for around three years now,” says Pedro.

João tells me how the coffee’s flavour profile has developed over the years.

“In the first harvest year, we tasted pineapple and flavours similar to black pepper,” he explains. “In the second year, there were more lemon notes, as well as pineapple, and the coffee scored 90 points. 

“It can be difficult to maintain such a consistent flavour profile, but it shows how useful it can be to predict flavour profiles,” he adds.

However, certain factors need to be taken into account when roasting fermented coffees.

“Traditional Brazilian fermented green coffees will stay fresh for up to four months, and the more delicate flavours will deteriorate more quickly,” João says. “But we recently roasted robusta, which had been fermented with Lalcafé’s Cima yeast strain, 18 months after harvest and it was still bright and clean-tasting.”

Pedro offers some advice when roasting yeast inoculated coffees. 

“We often roast with a higher air flow, so it’s more similar to convection roasting,” he explains. “This can help to highlight the more subtle fruity and floral flavours.”

There’s no denying the growing popularity of experimentally processed coffee among roasters and baristas in the specialty coffee sector, and it’s likely that demand will continue to increase.

For farmers looking to produce these coffees, investing in the right equipment and resources beforehand is essential – as is being prepared to experiment slowly and work your way up towards processing like this on a larger scale.

And while experimental processing may not be viable for some producers, it’s certainly clear that controlled fermentation can have a number of benefits when it is leveraged effectively.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee roasting & experimental processing methods.

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Please note: Lalcafé is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

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