Although some Geshas still fetch eye-watering prices – like the 96.5 point washed Carmen Estate Gesha which sold for US $10,005/kg at the 2023 Best of Panama auction – it’s not uncommon to see the variety served in more high-end coffee shops around the world. Technically, Gesha is no longer an “ultra-rare” coffee.

In more recent years, specialty coffee roasters and competitors alike have started looking elsewhere for more exclusive coffees – think Wush Wush, Sidra, eugenioides, and Pink Bourbon, to name a few.

So why do these varieties (or species) start to become more popular? And why do some of them eventually start to fade into the background?

To find out, I spoke to James Fairbrass, green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US.

You may also like our article questioning why some roasters are willing to spend more than US $10,000 per kg on Gesha.

Gesha: a variety for the ages?

Many of us know the story of Gesha – largely considered the first ultra-rare coffee variety. First found in the Gesha region of Ethiopia in the 1930s, the seeds were eventually transported to research centres in Kenya and Tanzania – where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha”. 

It was during the 1950s that CATIE (the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre) in Costa Rica acquired Gesha seeds. By the 1960s, Don Francisco Serracín of Don Pachi Estate had planted the variety in the western parts of the Boquete region of Panama.

Over the course of the next four decades, more and more Panamanian producers planted Gesha, but it took some time for the industry to fully recognise its excellent quality potential and desirable sensory profile.

The breakthrough moment came at the 2004 Best of Panama auction when Hacienda La Esmeralda set a then-world record of US $21 for the highest amount paid for a pound of coffee. 

In the years since, it’s a huge understatement to say this record has been broken, as we have seen buyers pay increasingly more for Gesha at a number of auctions:

• Panama’s Ninety Plus sold an undisclosed micro lot for US $10,000/kg (or US $4,535/lb) at its own private 2019 auction
• At the 2022 Lamastus Family Estates auction, a honey processed Gesha produced by Elida Estate sold for an unbelievable US $6,034/lb. This equates to more than US $12,068/kg – by far the most expensive coffee in the world
• The highest bid at the 2023 Best of Panama auction was US $10,005/kg for a washed Gesha. In total 1,250kg of coffee received US $1,085,275, which set a new record for the Best of Panama auction

Why did it become so popular?

Once you taste Gesha, it’s easy to understand why it has become one of the most sought-after exclusive varieties. Its uniquely floral flavours and tea-like body make it one of the most exceptional coffees available on the market. Additionally, Geshas also often receive 90 points or above when scored using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale.

As a result, many baristas and coffee professionals have opted for Gesha at some of the most prestigious coffee competitions over the past two decades, including the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup.

Events such as these often have a direct influence on trends in the wider specialty coffee industry. As such, despite remaining relatively expensive, it’s become more common to see Gesha on the bar or retail shelves in some of the world’s more high-end coffee shops.

But has its popularity waned? 

We always see Gesha on stage at high-level coffee competitions. But its popularity at these events has noticeably dipped in recent years, particularly at the 2021 World Barista Championship and Brewers Cup where competitors were opting for even more exclusive varieties or species.

James Fairbrass is a green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US – a pioneering roaster which specifically focuses on more high-end coffees. 

He emphasises that when questioning whether Gesha has become less popular, looking exclusively at competitions doesn’t always provide us with the full picture.

“To look at barista competitions as an indicator for what’s popular in specialty coffee is quite a narrow view of the industry as a whole,” he tells me. “It’s a niche within a niche.”

James continues that in his experience, demand is actually higher than ever – with both roasters and consumers willing to pay more. 

“Just look at the vast majority of coffee auctions, from Cup of Excellence, to Best of Panama, to single producer private auctions,” he says. “The highest scoring – and often highest valued – coffees are usually Geshas.

“If the popularity of Gesha was waning, I’d argue that we would also see a decline in the amount of money that roasters around the world are willing to pay – and we’re simply not seeing that,” he adds.

The emergence of other ultra-rare varieties (and species)

Given that Gesha has become more widely available in specialty coffee shops in recent years, it’s fair to say we can’t really refer to it as an “ultra-rare” variety anymore.

We can, however, look at competition trends as an indication of which other exclusive varieties (or even species) could be on the rise.

Eugenioides

At the 2021 World Coffee Championships, this “forgotten” coffee species very much had the spotlight. Coffea eugenioides is a parent species of arabica, and is believed to have originated from east Africa.

Both the 2021 World Barista Champion (Diego Campos) and World Brewers Cup winner (Matt Winton) used eugenioides in their routines, with several other competitors also using it that same year. And there’s a reason for this: the species has a fascinating sensory profile – with strong notes of tropical fruit, high levels of sweetness, and a silky mouthfeel.

Although interest in eugenioides certainly remains, demand is still very low. Moreover, growing this species is especially challenging and yields are relatively small.

Sidra

Another variety that has quickly gained more popularity is Sidra. In 2019, Jooyeon Jeon used a Sidra from La Palma y el Tucán in her winning WBC routine. Likewise, Cole Torode – who placed third – used the exact same coffee.

Three years later, Sidra also won the World Barista Championship when Australian competitor Anthony Douglas used it in his routine.

The exact origins of Sidra are somewhat unknown. Many believe, however, that the variety originates from the Pichincha province in Ecuador. Claims about its origin vary from that it’s genetically similar to Ethiopian heirloom varieties to that it is the result of crossbreeding Typica with Bourbon.

But again, as with other more exclusive varieties and species, scaling production of Sidra is challenging – largely because it requires full-shade conditions and is highly susceptible to certain pests and diseases.

Pink Bourbon

During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety – including the winner, Boram Um. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile (similar to Panamanian and Ethiopian coffees), interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about its origins. Owner of Aromas del Sur Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia is often credited for helping to discover the variety. Recent research indicates Pink Bourbon is genetically linked to Ethiopian landrace varieties, but this study has not yet been scientifically verified.

The potential for more producers to grow Pink Bourbon is currently largely limited to Colombia, which means it will most likely take some time for production to scale.

Wush Wush

Originating from the Wushwush region of Ethiopia, the Wush Wush variety can now also be found in Colombia. With a fairly varied range of flavour notes (including blueberries, vanilla, maple, and lavender), this coffee became particularly popular a couple of years ago.

Proud Mary Coffee, meanwhile, has been buying Wush Wush from Nancy and Oscar Maca at Finca El Zafiro in Colombia since 2016.

“If people are still sleeping on Wush Wush, they need to wake up – it’s delicious!” James says.

In fact, Proud Mary sometimes sells Wush Wush as part of its “deluxe” range.

“We often see these coffees purchased for competitions or for special events, which is great, but it inevitably means that very few people actually get the opportunity to taste them,” he adds. “To sell more, we need to get more customers to taste them and realise that they are special coffees. And that’s where the deluxe menus in our cafés have had a huge impact.”

Laurina

In 2018, MAME Coffee co-founder Emi Fukahori used an anaerobically fermented Laurina for her winning World Brewers Cup routine. In partnership with Daterra (which produced the coffee), Emi helped to re-introduce specialty coffee to one of the most exciting varieties in some years.

As well as having a desirable flavour profile (including flavour notes of melon and citrus fruits), Laurina is also naturally low in caffeine. In turn, the variety has been a unique selling point for many roasters looking to offer higher-quality alternatives to decaf coffee. 

Laurina has definitely become more popular in recent years, so it’s not exactly “ultra-rare” in comparison to other varieties and species. But it’s still difficult to grow at scale – mostly because it contains less caffeine, which is a natural pest repellant.

Are ultra-rare varieties destined to rise and fall?

Competitions will always continue to have an impact on which rare varieties and species become popular in the wider specialty coffee sector. And with competitors always looking for the “best” coffee to use during their routines, it’s becoming more important for them to rediscover more unique coffees.

“As an industry, we’re always searching for something new and exciting,” James says. “Innovation has always been a part of the specialty coffee industry. From what we’re seeing, the varieties that people are looking to experience are a part of that mindset, too.”

However, considering that Gesha has seemingly fallen out of favour with competitors, is it inevitable that other varieties will face the same fate?

For most of these “rediscovered” coffees, there is still a lot of potential for them to remain in the spotlight. What’s more, outside of competitions, it’s likely that they will stay popular for even longer – but production of these coffees will remain low for the foreseeable future.

Based on James’ experience at Proud Mary Coffee, demand for Gesha continues to be high – so it’s possible that the same will apply to other ultra-rare varieties.

“We’re selling more Gesha than we ever have before,” he asserts. “Both as pour overs in our coffee shops and through our e-commerce platforms.” 

The impact of experimental processing methods

In conjunction with a growing interest in more exclusive and ultra-rare coffees, there has been a rise in more experimental and advanced processing techniques. These methods can have a huge impact on flavour and mouthfeel, and open up new possibilities when it comes to experiencing coffee.

They can, however, often mask the innate characteristics of coffee, which can pose challenges when it comes to more delicate varieties and species.

“As an industry, we have spent the better part of the last 25 years telling our customers that origin, variety, terroir, and processing are all important – that these are the things that make coffee special,” James explains. “With the rise in popularity of experimental processing, I worry that we’re going to lose a lot of that.”

The range of ultra-rare and exclusive coffees is continuing to grow. And if Best of Panama prices are anything to go by, some roasters are still willing to pay a premium to secure them. 

“We’re going to continue buying as much deluxe, rare, and exotic coffees as we can, and we’ll find ways to sell them,” James concludes.

But whether these varieties and species will retain their levels of popularity – or eventually begin to fade – remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring whether coffee competitions are moving away from Gesha.

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During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile, interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about the origins of Pink Bourbon – which of course restricts our understanding of this unique variety.

But given that more and more roasters and coffee shops have started to offer this coffee in recent years, does it have potential to reach the same heights as Gesha or other similar varieties?

To find out more, I spoke to Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia, a producer at Finca Monteblanco and Aromas del Sur, Boram Um, co-owner of Um Coffee Co. and Fazenda Um, and Isaiah Sheese, owner of Archetype Coffee. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article on the Ombligon variety.

What is Pink Bourbon & where does it come from?

Like many other new or “rediscovered” arabica varieties (or even species), the exact origins of Pink Bourbon are unknown.

Rodrigo is a producer and the owner of Aromas del Sur – a co-operative which unifies all the farms he owns and manages. He is often credited for helping to discover the Pink Bourbon variety.

“As part of a joint effort with importers and exporters that we were working with at the time, the Aromas del Sur team found Pink Bourbon in 2013,” he says. “We believe it’s native to southern Huila in Colombia.”

According to Rodrigo, the variety first appeared in the San Adolfo area of the Acevedo municipality in Huila during the 1980s.

“There is no verified information about its specific origins,” he tells me. “When coffee leaf rust (la roya) first appeared in the region in the 1980s, more producers started to grow this variety unknowingly because it was resistant to the disease – and was highly adaptable to its environment and produced higher yields.

“We were one of the first producers to grow Pink Bourbon as a commercial crop, so we set out to find other farmers who were growing smaller quantities and were unaware of its quality potential,” he adds.

Dispelling prior claims about Pink Bourbon

It’s common to hear that Pink Bourbon is a natural hybrid of Red and Yellow Bourbon varieties. However, recent research is likely to have disproved this theory.

In late September 2023, Café Imports published an article stating that after conducting genetic testing in partnership with RD2 Vision, Pink Bourbon is likely to have come from an Ethiopian landrace variety.

However, it’s important to note that this research has not been scientifically verified, so the variety’s exact origins and heritage can’t be known for certain.

Growing Pink Bourbon

Even in optimal environmental conditions, Pink Bourbon is challenging to grow successfully. Not only do producers need to meticulously maintain plants, they must also isolate them from other varieties to ensure successful cross-pollination.

Rodrigo, meanwhile, says Pink Bourbon’s resilience and productivity are beneficial. 

“To date, we’re not aware of any diseases which it’s susceptible to,” he explains.

Boram is the 2023 World Barista Champion, and used Pink Bourbon from his farm in Brazil in his winning routine. He tells me his experience growing this variety is very different to Rodrigo’s – possibly due to different terroirs in Brazil and Colombia.

“Pink Bourbon is very susceptible to certain diseases and fungus, which is why we grow it in a controlled and safe environment,” he says.

Isaiah Sheese placed fourth at the 2023 World Barista Championship, and also used Pink Bourbon. He says he has noticed subtle differences in the variety’s physical characteristics.

“Some cherries are longer and thinner like Gesha or Ethiopian landrace varieties,” he explains. “However, we have also seen cherries which are rounder, and therefore more dense – which could be a result of growing at a higher elevation.”

One of the variety’s most distinctive traits, of course, is its slight pink hue.

“The cherries are orange or salmon-coloured,” Rodrigo says. “The plants also have more elongated leaves, which are light green or yellow-green in colour. Newer leaves start off as more orange coloured.”

What does it taste like?

Pink Bourbon not only stands out for its strikingly-coloured cherries, but also for its sweet and complex flavour profile.

“It’s usually more acidic – like citrus fruit flavours – with delicate notes of white florals and honey-like sweetness,” Boram says.

Isaiah agrees, telling me: “Pink Bourbon usually cups similarly to washed Ethiopians or Panamanian Geshas – with floral, pink lemonade, honeysuckle, and jasmine flavour notes, and a very elegant silky texture.”

Rodrigo, meanwhile, often picks up more tropical tasting notes.

“It’s a very complex coffee, with flavours of peach, papaya, and melon, as well as more floral notes such as jasmine, rose, and green tea,” he says. “It’s a very balanced coffee in terms of body and acidity.” 

Using different processing techniques to highlight certain flavours

Similar to other varieties, choosing specific processing methods can help make Pink Bourbon stand out even more.

Rodrigo explains he has found that Pink Bourbon cherries contain higher amounts of sugar (or have a higher Brix level) than other varieties, which makes them adaptable to different processing methods.

“We can use a diverse range of processing techniques, ranging from conventional methods to more unique processes, such as cold fermentations and thermal shock,” he tells me. “Personally, in terms of improving complexity, I prefer using cold fermentation.”

For Boram, the variety’s stand-out flavour profile worked well with anaerobic fermentation – which led him to choose it for his WBC routine.

“I’ve found that anaerobic fermentation processing methods bring out its best potential, but the key factor is drying the cherries properly,” he says. “We slowly dry the coffee in a temperature and humidity-controlled dark room with no UV light.

“We then manage to highlight more of the sweet floral and honey notes,” he adds. “Pink Bourbon is a fairly new variety to Brazil, so it’s important that more producers try growing it, too.”

For his World Barista Championship performance, Isaiah used a Pink Bourbon sourced by one producer (Lucy Galindez of Finca Bella Vista in Colombia), and then processed by another (Diego Bermudez of Finca El Paraiso). Diego is well-known for creating the thermal shock process.

“We have always loved fully washed Pink Bourbon,” Isaiah says. “But when we tasted it using Diego’s two-stage thermal shock fermentation, it elevated the flavour notes even more. We were blown away.”

Roasting Pink Bourbon

With roasters offering more and more unique varieties, they often need to tweak their roast profiles accordingly to get the best results – and Pink Bourbon is no exception.

Isaiah worked with his team at Archetype Coffee to roast his competition coffee, which was roasted for espresso. 

“Compared to washed Pink Bourbon, the two-stage thermal shock processing method definitely changes how this coffee reacts to heat when roasting – it’s similar to a natural process coffee,” he says. “While washed coffees generally require a more aggressive and upfront approach, you need to be more gentle when you start roasting thermal shock processed coffee.

“What’s more, we used the Stronghold S7 to roast my competition coffee, which is a very different style of roaster than a traditional drum machine because it also includes a halogen-powered heat source,” he adds.

Boram also had to adjust his roasting technique for his Brazilian Pink Bourbon – which he explains was largely because of different climatic conditions.

“Coffees in Brazil are usually grown at lower altitude in a different kind of terroir, so they tend to be less dense,” he tells me. “So we roasted the coffee for longer using lower temperatures to make sure it developed properly.”

Could the market for Pink Bourbon grow in the coming years?

It’s clear the market potential for Pink Bourbon is huge, with interest in this variety steadily rising year after year. But considering that some farmers face a number of challenges when it comes to scaling production, we may not get to see the variety in as many coffee shops and roasteries as we would like in the coming years.

Rodrigo, however, is hopeful that Pink Bourbon has a permanent place in the Colombian specialty coffee sector.

“Pink Bourbon will remain one of the most important varieties in our market,” he says. “We are proud to be the pioneers of growing this coffee.”

Boram also believes the success Rodrigo and other Colombian producers have experienced with this variety could help increase its production – as well as in other countries.

“Given that Colombia produces such high-quality Pink Bourbon, I hope this will increase peoples’ interest in this variety, including in Brazil,” he concludes.

Specialty coffee is always on the lookout for the latest “it” variety, and now more than ever, there are many options to choose from. 

Pink Bourbon is eye-catching for a number of reasons, including its complex and desirable flavour profiles. As a result, there is certainly potential for this variety to become a new darling of specialty coffee – but this may take some time.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the Typica Mejorado variety.

Photo credits: World Coffee Events, Specialty Coffee Association, Aromas del Sur

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At the 2023 WBC, meanwhile, several of the top six competitors chose to use lesser-known varieties – including winner Boram Um with Pink Bourbon and second runner-up Jack Simpson with Ombligon. 

Representing Hong Kong, fourth runner-up Dawn Chan also used a more exclusive variety called Typica Mejorado. Dawn sourced the coffee from Finca Soledad in Ecuador. 

Not much is known about the origins of Typica Mejorado, nor its market potential. To learn more about this variety, I spoke with José Pepe Jijón, the owner of Finca Soledad. Read on for more of his insight.

You may also like our article on Ombligon coffee & whether it could become more popular.

Where does Typica Mejorado come from?

Similar to the Sidra variety, it’s believed Typica Mejorado (also referred to as Typica Mejorada) originated from a Nestlé breeding facility in the Pichincha province of Ecuador.

Pepe Jijón is a first generation coffee farmer. At Finca Soledad, he grows Sidra and Gesha, as well as Typica Mejorado.

According to what many coffee professionals believe, he tells me researchers at the Pichincha breeding lab imported different coffee seeds (mainly sourced from Ethiopia) to develop new F1 hybrid varieties which produced both high yields and good cup quality.

Following this, it’s said that Don Olger Rogel – who was a field technician working at the lab at the time – identified two seeds which resulted in the most desirable sensory profiles. He named them Sidra and Typica Mejorado, and helped to disseminate seeds to farms in Ecuador.

“Don Olger provided our co-op with the first Typica Mejorado seeds in Ecuador,” Pepe says. “I was lucky enough to plant them on my farm in 2010.”

Although it’s certainly similar in name to Typica, Typica Mejorado is not related to this variety. It’s likely to have been given this name as its sensory profile is very similar to Typica, but often with more complex and expressive flavour notes. 

Where is Typica Mejorado grown?

While Typica Mejorado is mainly produced in Ecuador, the variety is also grown in Costa Rica and Colombia. The plants are typically tall, but produce low yields. 

Pepe explains the plants look very similar to Gesha.

“You wouldn’t be able to tell the difference if you had a Typica Mejorado plant next to a Gesha plant,” he says.

The seeds (or beans) of Typica Mejorado plants, however, are not all the same size. Some tend to be longer (similar to Gesha), while others are much smaller. Pepe explains this is because altitude and terroir have a big impact on how Typica Mejorado plants develop and grow.

Some of the oldest Typica Mejorado plants are found in Ecuador, including at Finca La Soledad. 

“I still have some of the mother trees which I continue to take seeds from because they have adapted so well to the terroir,” Pepe says. “However, just like Gesha and heirloom varieties, Typica Mejorado is very susceptible to environmental changes, such as excessive rain and exposure to sunlight. 

“The plants tend to also have a poor root system, similar to Gesha again,” he adds. “But after growing Typica Mejorado for 13 years, the variety has evolved to become more resistant to certain pests and diseases.”

Common sensory profiles

Generally speaking, Typica Mejorado has a very interesting and unique flavour profile. In fact, some coffee professionals say they even prefer it to Gesha.

“The variety has very clean citric and red fruit notes, and is very similar to Gesha in terms of flavour,” Pepe says. “You can really play around with this coffee and use different processing techniques, and allow it to really shine.”

At the 2023 WBC, Dawn Chan of Wanwan Coffee Roasters (who placed fifth) used Typica Mejorado from Finca Soledad. During his routine, Dawn said he chose the variety because it was a new sensory experience for him, and also allowed him to improve his brewing skills. 

The specific coffee Dawn used was Typica Mejorado tyoxidator. This is named after a processing technique used at Finca Soledad which is similar to the washed method.

“The coffee tastes amazingly sweet, which is why people love it,” Pepe explains. “Essentially, we aerobically ferment the cherries in open containers and then depulp them. Following this, we anaerobically ferment the coffee in the mucilage to create a very sweet coffee.”

Lastly, the coffee is washed and then dried.

Pepe points out it’s important to not submerge the cherries in water at the beginning of the tyoxidator processing method.

“We don’t wash the cherries because I think it’s invasive to the flavours in the coffee,” he tells me. “Instead, we want all the yeasts and natural bacteria in the fermentation tank to influence the flavours in the coffee.”

When it comes to roasting, Pepe says Typica Mejorado doesn’t need a specific roast profile. He suggests tweaking roast development according to the different sizes and densities of the beans.

Is there a wider market for Typica Mejorado?

The quality potential for Typica Mejorado is undeniable. But could we start to see it more often in specialty coffee shops?

Given that it produces such low yields, it’s unlikely that Typica Mejorado will appear on more coffee shops menus in the near future. However, as well as being used at the 2023 WBC, the variety also placed first, third, and fourth at the 2021 Cup of Excellence competition.

“People around the world are asking for Typica Mejorado seeds,” Pepe says. “I think it’s a result of the coffee’s beautiful flavour profile and the hard work of farmers in Ecuador who have been able to showcase what these coffees can do.”

Pepe tells me that Dawn’s routine at the 2023 WBC is not only highlighting Typica Mejorado, but also the quality potential of Ecuadorian coffee. He explains this is encouraging a new generation of young people to work in coffee production.

“My son is 18, and five or six years ago, he didn’t want to work in coffee because he saw how I was struggling,” Pepe says. “But now that I’m receiving support from the international specialty coffee community and improving the marketing of my coffee, my son is helping me on the farm. 

“I’m not sure that he will work in the coffee sector in the long term, but he is certainly falling in love with coffee thanks to Typica Mejorado and Sidra,” he adds. 

A similar path to Gesha?

As for its market potential in the future, Pepe believes Typica Mejorado could become as popular as Sidra. This variety has become more well known following 2022 World Barista Champion Anthony Douglas using it in his winning routine, with seemingly more and more specialty coffee shops serving it.

Moreover, Pepe thinks Typica Mejorado may follow a similar path to Gesha.

“Gesha wasn’t so popular when it was grown in Ethiopia or Costa Rica, but it became very famous when produced in Panama,” he says. “It took 20 to 25 years for producers to start showcasing more of its highly floral characteristics.

“I think Typica Mejorado and Sidra are on the same path,” he adds. “We haven’t yet discovered the full potential of Typica Mejorada and Sidra because we’ve only been growing them for ten years, but they are already showing great promise.”

Like with many other more exclusive varieties, excitement about Typica Mejorado is growing in specialty coffee. With such high quality cup potential, it’s certainly a coffee we should pay attention to.

However, with smaller yields and plants which grow different-sized beans, it’s unlikely that producers in Ecuador and beyond will be able to sustainably scale production any time soon.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on Sidra coffee.

Photo credits: Jose Pepe Jijon, Specialty Coffee Association

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It’s clear that specialty coffee sees plenty of potential with the quality of these varieties. In turn, the market for high-quality low-caf coffee is slowly but steadily growing. 

Another coffee variety which is naturally low in caffeine is AC1. First discovered in Ethiopia, the Instituto Agronômico de Campinas (IAC) has carried out extensive research on this coffee to better understand its market potential. And there have been some promising results, too.

To learn more about AC1, I spoke to Dr. Julio Mistro, a researcher at IAC, and Kenean Dukamo, head of coffee at Ethiopian exporter Daye Bensa. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on Laurina coffee.

Where does AC1 come from?

Like other low-caf varieties, AC1 is naturally low in caffeine. Comparatively, AC1 contains around 0.76mg of caffeine per gram of coffee, while arabica contains an average 8 to 12 mg/g.

So where does AC1 come from?

Around 60 years ago, a group of agronomists and researchers from the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation travelled to Ethiopia. The group collected 621 variations of arabica seeds, which were shared with research institutes around the world. These included the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE) in Costa Rica.

Dr. Alcides Carvalho – a researcher at the IAC at the time – requested some of the seeds sent to CATIE, which were planted at Fazenda Santa Elisa in Campinas, Brazil in 1973. Some 26 years later, IAC researcher Maria Bernadete Silvarolla identified three arabica plants which produced coffee with very low caffeine content. These were the AC1, AC2, and AC3 varieties.

Dr. Julio Mistro leads the research project on Fazenda Santa Elisa. 

“AC1 is a tall plant with less angular branches [than other coffee plants], and produces relatively low yields,” he says. “The variety is moderately tolerant to coffee leaf rust, but is very sensitive to higher temperatures and dry conditions.”

Research on the AC1 variety

In a 2011 study titled Characterisation of AC1: A naturally decaffeinated coffee, IAC researchers compared AC1 to Mundo Novo. This variety is a natural cross between Bourbon and Typica which is popular in Brazil. Researchers chose Mundo Novo because of its relatively low caffeine content (between 1% and 1.2%).

Researchers compared a number of factors between the two varieties, including the development of:

• Cherry growth
• Sugars
• Organic acids
• Amino acids
• Phenolic compounds

Although AC1 cherries are smaller than Mundo Novo, there are many similarities in chemical composition between both varieties. Ultimately, this has led researchers to conclude there is potential for the AC1 variety in the global coffee market.

Is there a place in the market for low-caf varieties?

While naturally low-caffeine varieties are a relatively new discovery in the global coffee industry, decaffeinated coffee is immensely popular. According to research firm SkyQuest, the value of the global decaf coffee market will reach US $28.86 billion by 2030.

Although moderate caffeine consumption is safe for most consumers, there are many reasons why people choose to drink decaffeinated coffee. These include allergies and health concerns – especially about the processes used to remove caffeine from green coffee.

These concerns largely stem from past processes which used chemical solvent methyl chloride to remove caffeine. When consumed in high amounts, methyl chloride can potentially be toxic – which has led many companies to stop using this chemical solvent altogether.

Different decaf processes

Today, there are a number of safe ways to decaffeinate coffee, with each one having its own impact on coffee flavour and quality. The most common method is the Swiss Water process, which has been in commercial use since the 1970s.

The Swiss Water process uses fresh water containing soluble compounds from green coffee (apart from caffeine, which is removed using a carbon filter). This mixture is referred to as green coffee extract (GCE).

Green coffee is then soaked in this mixture for up to ten hours, which allows the caffeine compounds to transfer from the green beans to the GCE. This leaves around 0.01% caffeine content.

For many specialty coffee professionals, the Swiss Water decaf method preserves most of the coffee’s inherent characteristics. Moreover, it’s one of the safest and most natural ways of removing caffeine from green coffee.

Other methods include:

• The Mountain Water Process, developed by Descamex
• Carbon dioxide method
• Descafecol’s sugarcane method

Given that the various decaffeination processes can affect coffee quality and flavour profile in different ways, there is certainly more market potential for low-caf varieties. As these coffees are naturally low in caffeine, they don’t need to be chemically treated or modified. This means there is potential to preserve quality and flavour as much as possible.

Could AC1 become more popular?

With interest in low-caf varieties like Laurina and Aramosa growing in the specialty coffee sector, is there the same potential for AC1?

Although more research is needed to answer more definitively, it’s clear that low caffeine levels can be detrimental to the growth of AC1 and other low-caf coffees. This is because caffeine acts as a natural repellent against insects and pests, so coffee plants which contain less caffeine can die more quickly. In turn, despite growing interest from specialty coffee roasters and consumers, there is little incentive for producers to plant low-caf varieties.

“The IAC doesn’t recommend commercial production of AC1, and we have never distributed seeds for commercial planting,” Julio tells me. “AC1 needs different treatment compared to other varieties in Brazil, including more fertiliser application and irrigation, as well as more intensive weed, pest, and disease control methods.

“Even with these strict measures, which also cost more money, yields would still be low,” he adds. “We would need to carry out more complex studies to better understand how to scale AC1 production sustainably.”

Using low-caf varieties to diversify production

In light of the challenges associated with growing AC1 and low-caf varieties, agronomists are using these coffees to determine future market potential.

“The IAC has cross pollinated AC1 with other prominent Brazilian arabica varieties, including Catuaí, Mundo Novo, Obatã, and Ouro Verde,” Julio explains. “We then developed new cultivars with not only high yield potential, but with caffeine levels between 0.03% and 0.10%.”

Julio adds that the IAC is carrying out regional trials to select which plants could be best for commercial production.

“It will take around six or seven years to conduct these tests successfully,” he says. “We are open to collaborating with companies that are willing to invest in the final phase of the programme.”

In June 2023, the IAC reported it had planted several of these low-caf varieties on farms across Brazil, with results already seeming promising.

“The aim of the programme is to develop varieties that are more productive than Laurina, but have even lower levels of caffeine,” he tells me. “On average, Laurina contains about 0.6% caffeine, but produces very low yields and is highly susceptible to several diseases.”

Kenean Dukamo, who placed second at the 2022 Cup of Excellence Ethiopia competition, tells me that while he doesn’t grow AC1 or other low-caf varieties, there is certainly interest in doing so.

“We would be open to growing a coffee variety that is naturally low in caffeine, so we could sell it as an alternative to decaf,” he says.

Innovation is rampant in specialty coffee, and this includes expanding and diversifying the market for low-caf varieties like AC1. While it’s clear that more research is needed to better understand how to scale production of these coffees, roasters and consumers alike are increasingly showing interest.

But ultimately, for producers to grow more naturally low-caffeine varieties as sustainably as possible, it’s important they receive the right level of support and guidance.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether low caffeine varieties could replace decaf.

Photo credits: Julio Mistro, Kenean Dukamo

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The 2023 World Barista Championship was no exception to this trend, with many of the six finalists using unique coffees in their routines. For example, Australia’s Jack Simpson (who placed third) used Ombligon for his espresso, milk, and signature beverage courses. 

Ombligon is a relatively unknown arabica variety grown in Colombia, but interest in this coffee is certainly growing following this year’s WBC. In line with this, is there potential for the market for Ombligon to grow in the coming years?

To find out, I spoke to Jack Simpson and Juan Pablo Campos. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on Sidra coffee.

What is Ombligon and where does it come from?

Like many other rare arabica varieties, the exact origins of Ombligon are unknown. Currently, Ombligon only grows in Huila, Colombia – a prominent producing region in the south west of the country.

The name “Ombligon” – which translates from Spanish to English as “belly button” – comes from this variety’s unique shape.

Juan Pablo Campos is a founding partner of Lohas Beans, a specialty coffee exporter in Colombia. Lohas Beans works closely with Nestor Lasso at Finca El Diviso – a well known Colombian coffee producer who grows several different unique arabica varieties, including Ombligon.

Juan explains that he and other coffee professionals believe Ombligon is related to an Ethiopian heirloom variety. He adds that because the variety is a natural mutation, it also shares similar traits to other native Colombian coffee varieties.

“Ombligon has similar characteristics to Caturra, such as wide leaves, cherries which grow close together, branches which grow vertically, and high yields,” he tells me. “However, many Colombian coffee professionals agree that Ombligon could be a natural mutation of other varieties like Pacamara, Bourbon, or even Castillo – mostly because of the high yield potential and resistance to coffee leaf rust.”

Producers in Huila, Colombia grow Ombligon at different altitudes, but between 1,600 and 1,800 m.a.s.l. tends to work best.

Jack Simpson is the Head of Quality Control & Sales at Axil Coffee Roasters in Melbourne, Australia. He is also the 2023 Australian Barista Champion. He tells me he first came across Ombligon a few months before the 2023 WBC while sampling coffees from Finca El Divisio. 

“I was intrigued,” he says. “I had never heard of this variety before and it had a very unique flavour profile.”

Growing and processing the variety

Juan explains that Ombligon isn’t particularly challenging to grow. This is mostly because it produces high yields and is fairly resilient to certain diseases – particularly coffee leaf rust (or la roya).

However, there are still important considerations to factor in when growing Ombligon.

“It produces rather large beans, so producers who aren’t used to this could end up breaking or chipping some of them when using traditional depulpers for washed processing methods,” Juan says. “To avoid this, you need to properly adjust depulpers to accommodate the larger beans.

“Ombligon is also denser than other varieties, with less ‘floaters’ or non-developed beans present in floatation tanks,” he adds.

When it comes to processing methods for Ombligon, there has been much innovation with natural fermentation techniques. Colombian producer Nestor Lasso has been pivotal in developing these methods, which have led to some exciting results.

Juan explains the process includes the following steps:

• After careful harvesting, mainly overripe Ombligon cherries (which have Brix levels ranging from 24°Bx to 26°Bx) are selected for processing
• The cherries are placed in bags and left to oxidise for 48 hours. This is followed by a 12-hour resting period, and then another 60-hour oxidation stage
• After 60 hours, the bags of cherries are left open to increase the temperature inside of them
• The cherries are then washed in 32°C (89.6°F) water to reduce the temperature difference between the water and inside the cherries
• Ombligon cherries are then placed into sealed plastic tanks to undergo anaerobic fermentation
• The cherries are washed in 60°C (140°F) water to stop the fermentation process, and are then dried using specialist dehumidifying equipment

Processing Ombligon for competitions

Juan tells me the processing techniques for Ombligon are much stricter and more precise when used for competitions.

“We process Ombligon cherries in stainless steel tanks in 200kg batches,” he says. “This means the variables are more controlled and are on a smaller scale, which helps to enhance the characteristics that Nestor wants to highlight for competitors who use this coffee.”

What does it taste like?

Jack explains that there were several reasons why he chose Ombligon for his 2023 World Barista Championship routine.

“This coffee is very unique. It’s complex, but it also has definable flavours and characteristics, which I think is one of the most important elements to consider when choosing a coffee for competitions.

“Using a variety that is new and interesting always excites me, but this year, Ombligon also fit so well into my routine,” he adds. “I spent a lot of time learning about Nestor’s innovative approach to fermentation, so his processing technique combined with the complexity of this coffee was a perfect choice.”

Many coffee professionals report tasting notes of raspberry, guava jam, mango, and white chocolate. Jack, meanwhile, tells me he has tasted red cherry, blood plum (a type of cherry plum), blood orange, watermelon, yellow peach, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and toffee. 

During his 2023 WBC milk beverage course, Jack also mentioned notes of boysenberry ice cream and malted chocolate.

“The mouthfeel is incredible – it’s very silky and thick, and it coats the mouth,” he says. “It also has a long-lasting sweet finish, which is one of the reasons why I chose this coffee.”

Roasting Ombligon

To highlight all of Ombligon’s best qualities, finding the right roast profile is essential.

Jack explains how he spent a lot of time adjusting the roast profile. He found that the coffee works well as both espresso and filter.

“For espresso, I found that we needed to take a more gentle approach, as well as using a longer development time than usual, to balance the acidity,” he says “The Agtron readings were quite low, [which indicates a darker roast profile], but this made for a more balanced, sweet espresso.

“When prepared as espresso, I tasted more flavours of stone fruit, citrus, and chocolate,” he adds. “Meanwhile when roasted for filter, there were more flavours of cherry and a more vibrant acidity.”

Could Ombligon become more popular?

Given its potential for producing high yields and resilience to certain diseases, it seems there is some potential for Ombligon production to scale in the coming years. Moreover, there is a spotlight on this variety following the 2023 World Barista Championship – and this is likely to continue for some time.

Additionally, when using the right processing methods, Ombligon has produced some excellent flavour profiles that many coffee professionals and enthusiasts would certainly be interested to try.

However, for many producers, there is an obvious level of risk when experimenting with growing and processing new varieties. In order for more farmers to grow Ombligon, they would need the right level of support and access to resources.

“If it’s possible for more producers to grow Ombligon, I would love to see more of it in specialty coffee,” Jack says. “Nestor did an amazing job with the coffee I used, so it will be exciting to see what the future holds for Ombligon.”

With its potential to produce incredible results in the cup, demand for Ombligon is likely to increase over the next few years – albeit at a very slow and steady pace. As this variety is currently only grown in Huila, Colombia, the ability to scale production is somewhat limited.

If we want to see Ombligon in more coffee shops, more producers would have to start growing this variety. For this to happen, they would need plenty of support and access to the right resources.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on what happened at the 2023 World Barista Championship.

Photo credits: Specialty Coffee Association, Juan Pablo Campos, Lohas Beans

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But over the past decade or so, specialty coffee’s fixation on single origin coffees has become more and more pronounced. As well as the perception of higher quality, transparency and traceability have become increasingly important for consumers – people now want coffees which have a “story” behind them.

However, in recent years, blends have made something of a comeback. At previous World Barista Championships, we have seen more and more competitors use blends as part of their routines. Furthermore, as coffee prices have increased, more roasters have started to switch their focus towards blends to manage their costs more effectively.

So – are single origin coffees still more popular among specialty coffee consumers? And if they are, are they still really “better” than blends? To find out, I spoke to Joel Singer, founder and general manager at Origin Coffee in South Africa, and Lloyd Thom, green buyer at Campos Coffee in Australia. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why knowledge of coffee origin matters.

What does “single origin” really mean?

Like with many other terms in specialty coffee, there is no formal definition of “single origin coffee”. Although we can determine that single origin coffees are sourced from one location, this can range from:

• One specific country
• A region within a country
• One particular farm or producer (who may own multiple farms)
• A specific plot of land on one farm (such as micro or nano lots, depending on the size)

Consequently, these coffees often have more unique flavour profiles, and are more expressive of the terroir in the region where they were grown. The term “terroir” – which is typically used in the wine industry – essentially encompasses all of the factors that contribute to the flavours in coffee. Some of these include:

• Altitude
• Soil quality & composition
• Climatic conditions
• Organisms which live or grow in, on, and around coffee farms

Furthermore, single origin coffees become more popular because more consumers care more about traceability and transparency. Compared to a blend – made up of several different component coffees – single origins are much easier to trace back to one particular region, farm, producer, or plot of land.

To market these coffees more effectively, roasters will often include more information on the packaging – such as altitude, variety, processing method, and cup score. They may also share more information about the producer and the farm with the consumer as a means of “bridging the gap” between the two.

Does “specialty” imply “single origin”?

For the most part, specialty coffee roasters and coffee shops have long since associated single origins with higher quality for a number of reasons.

This idea first came about during the third wave of coffee during the mid-to-late 2000s, which was marked by quality and traceability becoming much more important for both roasters and consumers. 

“The bigger commercial brands built their reputation on providing a consistent, yet sometimes lower-quality, product depending on their price points,” Joel says. “Back then, the way to differentiate your brand was to focus on traceability – who is the producer and where does your coffee come from.

“It was a cue to the customer that something was different about your coffee,” he adds.

Single origin coffees also helped to show consumers that some roasters work more closely with producers, and thereby know more about where their coffee comes from and how it was grown. Among other things, this can result in farmers receiving higher prices for their coffee, as well as establishing more trust with roasters to develop long-term working relationships.

“Single origins account for a relatively minor percentage of Campos’ overall sales, but they are at the core of our story and philosophy as a company,” Lloyd tells me. “We talk about the places these coffees come from and the people and processes involved.

“We aim to celebrate the origin itself, including the associations people may have with that specific country or region,” he adds.  

A premium experience

With specialty coffee consumers placing a growing emphasis on factors like traceability and sustainability, they are often willing to pay higher prices for single origin coffees – as long as they are high-quality.

[When drinking single origin coffee], it’s almost like you’re taking the customer on a journey that they didn’t necessarily know they wanted to go on,” Joel says. “But they appreciate it once they experience it.”

Ultimately, by being able to taste more unique and interesting sensory profiles, consumers get to enjoy the full spectrum of a coffee’s flavour. At the same time, they are also learning more information about origin and coffee production – adding more value to the overall experience.

“Offering single origins plays an important role in brand perception for roasters – similar to selling a range of expensive items,” Lloyd tells me. “They might be out of a customer’s price range, but the fact that the roaster has these coffees tells the consumer that they know what they’re doing [when it comes to high-quality coffee].”

But what about specialty coffee blends?

There’s no doubt that single origin coffees helped pave the way for a general push towards higher-quality coffee, and irrevocably shaped the specialty coffee sector for the better.

However, that’s not to say blends don’t have an important role to play, too.

Blends have been a staple of the coffee industry since its beginnings, and are a combination of at least two different coffees. These coffees may vary across a number of factors, including:

• Different countries (e.g. Brazil and Kenya)
• Various regions with a country
• Coffees from different producers in the same region
• Different varieties or processing methods from the same farm (in this case, coffees can be known as single-origin blends)

Historically, blends have been perceived as being lower quality in comparison to single origin coffees. This can certainly be true in some cases, especially when the flavours in the different coffees aren’t complementary, or their solubility levels aren’t similar enough to ensure even extraction.

Furthermore, it can be common practice for larger commercial roasters to blend arabica with lower-quality robusta to keep them cost-effective – which has added to the overall perception of blends as being lower quality in recent years.

However, more recently, this narrative has changed – especially in specialty coffee. The idea behind blends is to create consistent and more repeatable flavour profiles, and to create a more well-rounded, versatile coffee than a single origin might be able to offer.

Blends in competitions

Over the past two years, we have seen this most notably on the stage at the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup. 

At the 2023 WBC, for instance, winner Boram Um used a blend of anaerobically fermented Gesha and natural Pink Bourbon in his milk beverage course. Italian competitor Daniele Ricci, who placed second, also used a blend of Colombian Gesha and Caturra from the same farm.

During their performances, both competitors emphasised how blending their coffees helped to create a more balanced and well rounded taste experience.

Dependability & consistency

Consumers are clearly willing to pay more for single origin coffees, but sometimes the decision simply boils down to consistency.

“Roasters don’t create blends that are better than the sum of their parts just to sell cheaper coffee,” Joel says. “Blends tend to be at entry-level price points for good reasons.

“At our coffee shops, around half of sales are blends,” he adds. “But with wholesale customers, it’s about 90% – prices are a concern for the vast majority of hospitality businesses.

“If every roaster was only selling single origins, consumers wouldn’t necessarily have the same experience wherever they go,” he continues.

So, are single origin coffees “better” than blends? Well, it’s difficult to say. Ultimately, the answer is completely subjective and based on an individual’s preference, so it’s impossible to draw a conclusion across the board.

As an industry, the most important thing will be acknowledging that both single origins and blends have a huge potential for quality – and as such, that they can coexist harmoniously.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on specialty coffee blends: How exciting can they be?

Photo credits: Lloyd Thom, Campos Coffee

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Rare coffee species and varieties can become more revered for a number of reasons, including their high cup quality and desirable sensory profiles. However, some varieties are also sought after because of their unusual physical characteristics, such as large bean size.

One of these is Maragogipe (or Maragogype) – a natural mutation of Typica, which is one of the most genetically important arabica varieties in the coffee industry. Maragogipe produces very large cherries and beans, which ultimately has an impact on how you process and roast it.

To learn more about Maragogipe, as well as whether there is a wider market for this variety, I spoke with three coffee professionals. Read on to find out more.

You may also like our article on how El Salvador can leverage Pacamara coffee like Panama leveraged Gesha.

Where did Maragogipe come from?

According to World Coffee Research, the variety was first discovered in 1870 in the municipality of Maragogipe in Bahia, northeast Brazil – hence its name. 

It’s believed that Maragogipe is a natural mutation of Typica, which has historically been known for its large bean size and high cup quality. As a result of its single dominant gene, Maragogipe produces unusually large leaves, cherries, and beans – which has led many coffee professionals to name it the “elephant bean”.

Researchers have also concluded that Maragogipe is a parent species of Pacamara and Maracaturra, which both yield very large beans. While the latter originated from Nicaragua, the former grows primarily in El Salvador, where it frequently receives high scores at annual Cup of Excellence competitions.

Gerson Silva Giomo is a Scientific Researcher at Instituto Agronômico de Campinas (IAC) in Brazil.

Up until the 1950s, Gerson explains that it was common to find small numbers of Maragogipe plants growing in some of the main coffee-growing regions in Brazil. 

“Because of its low yields, Maragogipe has never been grown on a large commercial scale,” he explains.

Although the variety’s potential cup quality is very high when grown at high altitudes, its yield potential is not. Moreover, Maragogipe is also highly susceptible to several pests and diseases, including:

• Coffee leaf rust
• Coffee berry disease
• Nematodes

Mauricio Salvaverra is a producer at Divisadero Coffee in El Salvador.

“Before the 1950s and 1960s, more farms in El Salvador used to grow Maragogipe,” he explains. “However, because of its low yields and susceptibility to la roya (coffee leaf rust), more farmers started to grow Bourbon and Pacamara.” 

Declines in production

Gerson tells me that because it produces lower yields, many farmers in Brazil began to replace Maragogipe with more productive varieties – such as Mundo Novo. 

“Today, the production of Maragogipe in Brazil is largely limited to a small number of farms who cater to customers looking for larger-sized beans,” he says. 

Despite the challenges associated with its production, the variety’s unique characteristics have made it more popular in a range of origin countries. These include Mexico, Guatemala, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Colombia, and Hawaii.

How is it processed and roasted? 

When it comes to processing and roasting, bean size is certainly an important factor for any kind of coffee. However, it is especially relevant for varieties which produce very large beans, like Maragogipe.

“Generally speaking, natural processing methods help to enhance the variety’s complexity, sweetness, and body, as well as highlighting more fruity flavours,” Gerson explains. “Conversely, with washed processing techniques, Maragogipe is less sweet and has a less pronounced body, but you can enhance the acidic and floral aromas.”

Brandon von Damitz is a co-founder and co-owner of Big Island Coffee Roasters in Hawaii, which grows a 94-point Kaʻū Maragogipe with notes of peach, bergamot, and honey.

“The variety’s potential lies in how well it responds to its terroir, farming practices, processing method, roast profile, and brewing method,” he says. “What I love about Maragogipe grown in Hawaii is that it’s both high quality and versatile.

“The variety works well with a number of roast profiles and brewing methods,” he adds. “The size of the beans, as well as its other attributes, all play a role in determining how we apply heat when roasting.”

Mauricio mentions that because Maragogipe has such desirable sensory properties, producers often sell and market it as a single origin micro or nano lot. He adds that some producers also use honey processing techniques, or even controlled fermentation methods.

“Some roasters say that it’s not the easiest variety to roast,” he says. “However, I have clients in Australia, France, and the US who would certainly buy more Maragogipe if we had more available.”

Brandon agrees, saying: “Given its rarity and low yields, we prefer to sell and market Maragogipe by itself, [rather than in a blend].”

What does Maragogipe coffee taste like?

As with any variety, flavour profile and sensory attributes are naturally a result of the plant’s terroir. This includes the soil, climate, altitude, and the region in which the coffee grows.

Furthermore, post-harvest processing methods also have a significant impact on a coffee’s cup profile.

It’s fair to say that over the years, opinions on the quality of Maragogipe have ranged widely. For example, in William Ukers’ book All About Coffee, which was first published in 1922, he states:

“The green bean is of huge size, and varies in colour from green to dingy brown. It is the largest of all coffee beans… but woody and generally disagreeable in the cup.”

However, many coffee professionals agree that with agricultural best practices, Maragogipe can produce high-quality coffee with desirable characteristics.

“Typically, Maragogipe is naturally very sweet and low in acidity,” Gerson explains. “It also has some floral nuances, as well as honey and sometimes spice tasting notes.”

Brandon agrees, telling me: “I love the dynamic sweet-savoury flavour and aroma qualities of Maragogipe. 

“It has peach-like flavours with some chocolate undertones, as well as some more herbaceous notes of hops and sandalwood,” he adds. “The sensory experience can change day-to-day, as well as when using different brewing methods, so there is plenty to enjoy from a single coffee.”

Is there a wider market for this variety?

Undoubtedly, Maragogipe is a popular choice among specialty coffee roasters who sell more exclusive varieties. 

Mauricio says he has been growing Maragogipe for nearly a decade, and sells the coffee as part of Divisadero’s nano lot range. 

“The variety’s bean size and great cup quality usually rivals that of Pacamara in El Salvador,” he explains. “However, because Maragogipe is expensive to produce, very few farmers are interested in planting more, and market prices remain very high.”

While Maragogipe isn’t considered an ultra-exclusive variety, Brandon tells me that it can be difficult for consumers to find it.

“We’re fortunate that it grows in Hawaii where we can experiment with different growing regions and processing methods to create even more diverse and unique sensory experiences,” he says. 

Brandon adds that when Big Island Coffee Roasters first sold Maragogipe, it was notably very popular among its customers – indicating there is growing demand.

“The combination of its rarity, size, and flavour profile means it’s a unique coffee that people don’t want to miss out on,” he explains. “When it’s sold out, it’s gone until the next harvest season.”

Gerson tells me that IAC has been studying Maragogipe since 1931, with a specific focus on genetic modification to improve yields.

“Knowing that in the specialty coffee market there is growing demand for varieties which produce larger beans, the IAC has preserved several female Red and Yellow Maragogipe plants in its germplasm bank for future use,” he explains.

“With the goal of increasing productivity, the IAC has developed specific protocols for commercial Maragogipe production,” he adds. “These include a particular focus on defining best plant spacing, nutrition, and phytosanitary management (ensuring the plants are free from dangerous pests and diseases).”

Is there potential to improve yields?

Although there are clear challenges when it comes to Maragogipe production, Gerson is hopeful that it could become more widespread.

“Based on the IAC’s Maragogipe lineage selection, as well as the application of farming and post-harvest processing best practices, production of Maragogipe could increase in Brazil,” he explains.

Brandon is also optimistic about the variety’s future in the specialty coffee market.

“Maragogipe’s cup qualities are more suitable for consumers who are more adventurous, and usually have more developed palates,” he says. “It’s a fantastic entry point for people who want to experience what different coffee varieties have to offer.”

It’s clear that specialty coffee places a lot of value on more exclusive and highly-prized varieties, and producers and roasters selling Maragogipe can certainly capitalise on this.

However, at the same time, the variety’s low productivity and vulnerability to pests and diseases pose a significant number of challenges for scaling production. 

So if we want to see more Maragogipe available in the future, further research and extensive support for coffee producers is certainly necessary.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee varieties: a crash course in Gesha vs Bourbon.

Photo credits: Gerson Silva Giomo, IAC, Juleigh Burden, Kelleigh Stewart

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Many popular coffee varieties in Kenya include SL-28 and SL-34, which were first introduced to the country’s farmers more than 90 years ago. While SL varieties are high quality, they are also highly susceptible to various pests and diseases – making them difficult for farmers to grow.

However, as part of a wider discussion on introducing more disease-resistant and climate-resilient varieties to Kenya’s coffee sector, farmers are starting to grow others. One of these is Ruiru 11 – a high-yielding dwarf F1 hybrid which is more resistant to a number of pests and diseases.

To find out more about Ruiru 11, and whether or not it will become more widespread, I spoke to two local coffee farmers. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article exploring two popular Kenyan coffee varieties: SL-28 and SL-34.

The origins of Ruiru 11

As with many other hybrid varieties, Ruiru 11 was developed because of the increasing prevalence of pests and diseases. The most prominent example was a coffee berry disease (CBD) epidemic in 1968, which destroyed around half of Kenya’s coffee production that year.

CBD is caused by the Colletotrichum fungus, which turns cherries brown or black – leading to rot and premature drying. Ultimately, this has a detrimental impact on a coffee plant’s yield and quality.

In response to rising cases of CBD, a coffee station in Ruiru began breeding coffee varieties in the 1970s which were more resistant to the disease – as well as still producing satisfactory volumes of high-quality coffee.

One of these varieties was Ruiru 11 – a disease-resistant dwarf F1 hybrid which could be grown at different altitudes. According to World Coffee Research, the variety was developed using genetic material from many different varieties – including a Catimor female parent and a selection of K7, SL-28, N39, and Sudan Rume male parents.

These varieties were largely chosen for their higher levels of resistance against CBD, as well as coffee leaf rust (CLR) – a fungus which eventually kills coffee plants. However, alongside their disease resistance, these varieties also give Ruiru 11 a reputation for high yields and good quality coffee.

When was Ruiru 11 first planted?

Ruiru 11 was first introduced to Kenyan coffee farmers in 1985, which marked a significant change for the country’s coffee sector.

Compared with other varieties, which are more slow-growing, Ruiru 11 generally produces its first harvest within two years of planting. Its plants are also small and compact, which means producers can grow more of them in a smaller area.

Watson Wanjau is a coffee farmer in Kenya, who has been producing the variety for the past decade.

“I grow Ruiru 11 on some small parcels of land,” he says. “Because you can plant the variety closer together than others, such as SL-28 and SL-34, you can increase productivity.”

He adds that Ruiru 11 requires fewer fungicides and fertilisers than other popular varieties in Kenya – meaning it’s typically more affordable for farmers to grow than SL varieties.

One of the most significant ways in which Ruiru 11 has proliferated is through top-working. This is when farmers graft new plant material of one variety onto an established root system of another – essentially eliminating the need for producers to plant more Ruiru 11 seeds.

“Top-working is the easiest way of helping more farmers grow Ruiru 11,” Watson explains. “Producers can utilise the already established root systems to convert their plants.”

However, he adds that top-working is still a new concept for many Kenyan coffee farmers, so the level of success can vary widely depending on the producers’ experience levels. Furthermore, rootstock grafting is a complex process which usually requires the assistance of specialists.

In light of this, Watson suggests that producers should first plant Batian, which has some of the same parents as Ruiru 11. Farmers can then graft Ruiru 11 scions (the term for offshoots and twigs) onto the root systems of Batian to make top-working easier.

Are more Kenyan farmers growing the variety?

Symon Sogomo is a coffee farmer at Sogomo Coffee Estate in Trans-Nzoia County, Kenya. The farm grows three varieties, including Ruiru 11, Batian, and some SL plants. 

He explains that when it comes to planting more Ruiru 11, some of the country’s older farmers are somewhat apprehensive – especially when growing Batian for top-working.

“There is a noticeable difference in how Batian and Ruiru 11 both grow,” he explains. 

Kenya’s main annual coffee harvest runs from March to July. So while Batian is a high-yielding plant, it can sometimes produce less coffee in the following harvest – especially if yields were high in the previous year.

“But whenever a new variety is introduced, it will always be viewed differently initially,” he adds. “When I asked some older farmers about when Ruiru 11 was first introduced, they said that farmers didn’t know how to grow it and agronomists didn’t know how to manage it.”

Under optimal conditions, producers can grow up to 3,000 Ruiru 11 plants per hectare, which will produce a consistently high volume of cherries – providing farmers with a number of benefits.

Ultimately, this, as well as other reasons, has led to a sharp rise in demand for the variety.

“It is a variety which Kenyan coffee farmers fully support,” he says. “It was developed in Ruiru, so it is Kenyan variety, rather than others which were brought over by colonists.”

However, as certified Ruiru 11 seeds must be sourced from the Coffee Research Foundation in Kenya (along with all other seeds in the country), supply has not been able to meet demand. Moreover, the research institute has started to shift its focus towards cultivating Batian in recent years.

“My coffee-growing region is relatively young compared to other areas in Kenya, so we plant more Batian than Ruiru 11,” Watson says. “However, many farmers want to plant Ruiru 11, but they can’t source the seedlings.”

At his nursery, Watson tells me he and his team grow Ruiru 11 seedlings obtained from the Coffee Research Foundation. They also supply seedlings to other local farmers to help boost the variety’s production.

Understanding the challenges of Ruiru 11 production

Although there are clear advantages to growing Ruiru 11, some Kenyan farmers are concerned that its quality is not as high as the SL varieties – potentially resulting in lower prices.

Symon, meanwhile, believes that few consumers would be able to taste the difference between Ruiru 11 and SL varieties. He says this is largely because the former is still considered a “young” variety in Kenya, so its sensory profile is still yet to be fully explored.

However, one of the bigger concerns around Ruiru 11 is its susceptibility to certain pests and diseases – despite the drive behind its cultivation and its supposed resilience.

As Ruiru 11 is often grown alongside other varieties, pests and diseases can actually spread more easily than initially thought to plants in some cases.

“We have had some unusual cases of CLR and CBD on Ruiru 11 plants,” Symon tells me. “Agronomists told us that the genetic materials for these plants were probably not selected to a high enough standard.

“Ruiru 11 which is 100% genetically accurate should be completely resistant to both of these diseases,” he adds.

Watson says that there have been more cases of CBD affecting Ruiru 11 plants, but expert agronomists have warned producers to not treat the plants accordingly. This is largely because the effects of CBD on Ruiru 11 are often non-threatening. 

“We were advised to collect and burn the affected cherries,” he tells me. “However, these cases are still concerning because when it was first introduced, Ruiru 11 experienced these issues. 

“We hope that it is just a normal reaction to being planted with other, more traditional varieties,” he adds.

Alongside a small number of unusual CBD cases, Ruiru 11 is also sensitive to drought stress. The variety’s higher yields are contingent on a significant amount of water – a growing issue considering the rising number of Kenya’s droughts in recent years.

“Producers growing Ruiru 11 need to have an alternative source of water if rainfall is lower than expected,” Watson says. “To produce healthy cherries, the variety needs a lot of water, so it’s important to also have large irrigation tanks and systems in place.”

Looking to the future

Considering the increasing demand for Ruiru 11 seeds in Kenya, it’s more than likely that production volumes will grow in the coming years. However, this is mostly dependent on whether seeds will become available to more farmers.

Watson hopes that the Coffee Research Foundation will address this problem in the near future, mainly by cultivating more seeds and increasing producers’ access to them.

He emphasises that top-working is one of the ways in which farmers can supply themselves – and potentially others – with more Ruiru 11 plants.

“More than half of our Ruiru 11 plants were cultivated using top-working,” he says. “Most other Ruiru 11 farmers have done the same.

“Moreover, top-working seems to be working better and better every year,” he adds.

Although top-working can be complex and difficult, if supply chain stakeholders invest in teaching Kenyan coffee farmers the best practices for this process, the country’s Ruiru 11 production could certainly grow.

Thanks to its generally solid tolerance for a range of major diseases, there is no doubt that Ruiru 11 will continue to be prominent across Kenyan coffee production. Its increased resilience, as well as its high yields and cup quality, make it well worth growing for many of the country’s farmers.

Some researchers and producers also believe that as the variety evolves, it will continue to acclimate to Kenya’s soil and climatic conditions, and more research about how to best cultivate it will be summarily conducted. However, ultimately, whether or not this happens will all depend on one thing – seed availability.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring land succession in Kenyan coffee production.

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One of these coffees is Sidra (also known as Sydra or Bourbon Sidra). While the variety itself is not especially well known, it is becoming increasingly prominent at WCC events – and was notably used by the 2019 World Barista Champion Jooyeon Jeon in her winning routine and the 2022 World Barista Championship winner Anthony Douglas.

To understand more about Sidra, I spoke with several coffee professionals. Read on for their insight about this unique arabica variety.

You may also like our article on excelsa coffee.

Understanding the origins of Sidra

Sadly, there is little information available about Sidra; however, it is believed that the variety originally comes from the Pichincha province in Ecuador. Some people claim that Sidra originated from a Nestlé coffee breeding facility in the region, which developed hybrids using Ethiopian and Bourbon varieties. It is reported that Don Olger Rogel was the first person to introduce Sidra, as well as Typica Mejorada, to the Ecuadorian coffee sector.

Although the facility closed down some years ago, it’s believed that Sidra was one of “unreleased” varieties which was developed by Nestlé. Initially, it was reported that Sidra was produced by crossbreeding Typica with Bourbon – two high-quality varieties from which many coffee plants today can be traced back to.

However, some farmers and roasters have sent Sidra samples to research institutions for genetic testing, and have found that the samples were genetically similar to Ethiopian heirloom varieties – an overarching term used for the many wild or genetically unidentified varieties which are native to the East African country. Other tests, meanwhile, have revealed different parentage.

When contacted for comment, World Coffee Research said it’s possible that Sidra does not have a clear genetic identity. Instead, Sidra could be a few different varieties that farmers refer to under the same name – something the organisation says is not uncommon in the coffee industry given the lack of a formal seed sector.

Although it is difficult to universally determine the flavour profile of Ethiopian heirloom varieties, they generally have more floral and fruity characteristics. Sidra also has a similar cup profile, with high levels of sweetness.

Where is Sidra grown?

Despite being genetically linked to Ethiopia, Sidra is mainly produced in South America – primarily in Ecuador and Colombia. The variety grows between 1,650 and 1,800 m.a.s.l. (metres above sea level).

One of the first coffee farms to commercially grow Sidra was La Palma y El Tucán in Cundinamarca, Colombia. Producers planted around 1,800 Sidra trees in 2012, followed by an additional 4,300 plants in 2015 after the variety became more popular in the specialty coffee sector.

Sidra plants have distinctively thick trunks and can grow up to four metres tall. They produce dark green leaves and have elongated five-petal flowers, with cherries that grow densely packed together along its branches. The cherries are also larger and rounder than other arabica varieties with pointed ends. The seeds (or beans) of the Sidra variety are generally longer and thinner than most arabica varieties – similar to Gesha. 

José Pepe Jijón is the owner of Finca Soledad – a coffee farm in the Imbabura province of Ecuador. He explains some of Sidra’s other similarities to Gesha.

“Just like Gesha, Sidra requires shade to grow successfully. Some say it originally grew in forests,” he tells me. “It requires an ecosystem, so it can’t be planted in full sun conditions.

“Sidra produces high yields and is resistant to several pests and diseases, but not coffee leaf rust,” he adds.

Coffee leaf rust is a common term for hamileia vastatrix, a fungus which prevents photosynthesis in the leaves of coffee plants. It appears as yellow spots on the underside of leaves, before developing into a yellow-orange powder that can easily transmit to other plants.

Producers at La Palma y el Tucán say that Sidra is also highly susceptible to diseases such as ceratocystis fimbriata and coffee berry disease – both of which are detrimental to plant growth and coffee quality.

Popularity in the specialty coffee sector

Although there is little information about Sidra available in the coffee industry, it has become increasingly popular over the past several years, mainly because of its high cup quality.

Cole Torode is the Head of Coffee and Operations at Forward Specialty Green Coffee Importers in Alberta, Canada.

“Sidra is one of the most exciting coffee varieties available,” he says. “It has dynamic flavours and an interesting mouthfeel. You can expect ripe stone fruit notes, such as nectarine, apricot, and peach.

“It also has some citrus notes; I notice a lot of orange or orange blossom flavours,” he adds. “It can have white grape and wine-like notes as well.”

Pepe agrees, saying: “After cupping hundreds of Sidra samples, we found it has botanical and mint flavours. 

“On a cupping table with 20 other coffees, we can usually recognise Sidra because of its botanical and mint notes,” he adds.

However, as with any other coffee variety, the processing method has a significant impact on flavour, aroma, and mouthfeel.

Arturo Arevalo is the founder of Selvadentro and previously worked at La Palma y El Tucán.

“In my experience, no matter which processing method you use for Sidra, the flavour profile is sweet, with notes of honey, malt, and red apple,” he says. “The acidity is mild, but with a citrus-like profile. 

“The mouthfeel is well-rounded and velvety,” he adds.

The fermentation technique used for Sidra grown at La Palma y El Tucán, known as the “bio innovation method”, has been used to further develop its flavours.

“The bio innovation method adds layers of complexity to the coffee, which enhances and deepens its flavour profile,” Arturo tells me. 

This is because the technique involves adding microorganisms which are native to the farm to the cherry, helping to break down sugars and produce more acids. The higher concentration of organic acids can often result in tropical fruit notes, as well creating a more intense and heavy mouthfeel.

Cole, meanwhile, tells me he prefers natural processed Sidra. He says that many producers who grow Sidra use this technique to highlight the variety’s fruit characteristics.

“It’s a playful, complex coffee,” he says. “It has a lot of different elements and it is very tactile.”

Is there a wider market for Sidra?

As a result of its increasing popularity in the specialty coffee sector, Sidra has been used in several WCC events. At the 2019 World Barista Championships, Jooyeon Jeon placed first and Cole placed third using Sidra grown at La Palma y el Tucán. 

Sidra is currently commercially grown on a much lower scale than other arabica varieties – mainly because it results in the highest cup quality when grown above 1,700 m.a.s.l.

However, some coffee professionals believe this will change over the coming years.

“Sidra and Typica Mejorada could become more commonly grown in Ecuador,” Pepe tells me. “Young farmers in the country should plant more of these varieties; it’s a chance for Ecuador to establish itself more as an ‘exotic’ origin.”

Cole agrees, saying that there are several international markets for Sidra.

“The sensory profile of this variety is more suited to North American and Middle Eastern consumers, who prefer more intense and dominant flavours,” he says. “Fermented coffees with lots of flavour are popular in these markets.”

Pepe believes that Sidra is much more than just a “trending” competition coffee. He explains that because of the range of flavours it produces, he foresees that consumer demand for Sidra will increase over the next few years.

“Sidra, as well as Typica Mejorada, is a new variety in the Ecuadorian coffee industry, so it still has a lot of potential,” he adds. “For instance, it took around thirty years for Panamanian Gesha to become popular, and I think that Sidra could be on the same trajectory.”

It’s no secret that the specialty coffee sector prizes exclusive and unique coffee species and varieties, and Sidra certainly seems to have joined that category.

There’s no doubt that Sidra is becoming more popular among some third wave coffee roasters and coffee competitors.

We can expect to see more Sidra lots used at WCC events in the coming years, and who knows – it may well start to appear on certain specialty coffee shop menus. However, just how much production volumes will increase over the next few years remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether coffee competitions are moving away from Gesha.

Photo credits: @instintocoffee

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Since then, however, annual harvest volumes have been steadily declining. Between 2019 and 2020, production volumes fell by 4.9% to 29 million 60kg bags. 

Some 95% of Vietnamese coffee is robusta, while arabica makes up the remaining 5%. Unfortunately, robusta has a negative reputation because of historical associations with poor quality.

As part of improving farmers’ income, bolstering arabica production in Vietnam has been a key focus for many stakeholders in the country’s coffee industry. In many cases, this has meant trialling new hybrid varieties as well as implementing agroforestry practices.

To learn more about these new farm management techniques, I spoke with two people involved in the BREEDCAFS project taking place in northwest Vietnam. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on introducing climate-resilient coffee hybrids in Vietnam.

Challenges in Vietnamese coffee production

One of the biggest challenges that Vietnamese coffee producers face is the country’s widespread reputation for producing lower-quality robusta at scale. However, beyond this, even where arabica coffee is concerned, the country’s farmers face a number of challenges.

Laurent Bossolasco is the Asia-Pacific Regional Manager for ECOM Sustainable Management Services (SMS).

“Vietnamese coffee producers – whether they are growing arabica or robusta – face challenges that are also common elsewhere across the Bean Belt, such as the rising costs of hiring labour and fertilisers, as well as price volatility,” he says.

“Although farmgate prices are currently higher, this hasn’t always been the case,” he adds. “Coffee prices were low two to three years ago; in some countries they were even below the costs of production.”

Generally speaking, coffee farmers have to reinvest a significant proportion of their income into farm costs on a yearly basis. These include regular seasonal maintenance, replanting old trees, or buying agricultural inputs to maintain or improve yield and quality.

However, alongside these costs, producers also need to earn enough money to support themselves and their families.

“While Vietnamese arabica farmers can largely cover their production costs, our research has indicated that prices still aren’t high enough for them to earn a living income,” Laurent explains.

“Around 17% of the arabica producers we surveyed earned more than a living income between 2019 and 2020,” he tells me. “Between 2021 and 2022, however, this number increased to 85%.”

As well as issues of income stability, Vietnamese farmers also face a number of challenges as far as coffee quality is concerned. 

“Most Vietnamese arabica is Catimor, which is largely grown in full sun conditions,” Laurent explains. “This variety is more resistant to diseases like coffee leaf rust, but historically has not been of high quality.

“Arabica farms are not irrigated in Vietnam, so more unpredictable rainfall could affect their growth and yield,” he adds. “Rising temperatures are likely to cause higher levels of pest outbreaks, which could force farmers at lower altitudes to turn to other cash crops.”

Furthermore, climate change is becoming more of an issue for many countries along the Bean Belt, including Vietnam. The country’s increasing annual temperatures could see some of its coffee-growing regions decline in size and suitability by as much as 50% within the next 30 years.

“The age of coffee trees is also a challenge that farmers need to address, so breeding and adopting new hybrid varieties that are fit for agroforestry practices can help to tackle these issues in Vietnamese coffee production,” Laurent says.

F1 hybrid varieties

One possible solution to improve the resiliency of Vietnamese arabica plants is the development of new F1 hybrid varieties – but what exactly are these?

Clément Rigal is a coffee agronomist at French agricultural research organisation CIRAD.

“First generation (or F1) coffee hybrids are made by crossing two coffee plants which both have desirable characteristics, such as producing higher yields and high-quality coffee, or having a higher tolerance to drought,” he says. 

“This type of selection process has been carried out by farmers for centuries, however, breeders are now more systematic in their approach,” he adds. “They have access to parent trees from different origins and can more extensively measure the performance of the F1 hybrids.”

Laurent adds: “Most arabica varieties grown currently in Vietnam are not likely to be able to tolerate higher instances of diseases and pests, as well as rising temperatures and other environmental threats related to climate change.

“ECOM and CIRAD have developed breeding programmes to improve the genetic diversity of robusta and arabica,” he adds. “The arabica hybrids were developed by crossing traditional varieties with wild varieties from Sudan and Ethiopia.”

Developing hybrid varieties successfully requires extensive knowledge and technical skills, as Clément explains.

“The only F1 hybrid that can be propagated by seeds is Starmaya, but the seeds must be propagated in dedicated seed gardens,” he says. “This F1 hybrid variety was developed by CIRAD and ECOM.”

Starmaya is a hybrid between an arabica plant and the rust-resistant Marsellesa variety, which CIRAD and ECOM first field-tested in Nicaragua in the mid-to-late 2000s. It can grow at medium altitudes while still producing high yields and desirable flavour profiles.

“Hybrid varieties yield between 20% and 40% more than their parent varieties, as well as the control varieties used in our study,” Laurent tells me. “In our sensory evaluations, the hybrid varieties scored the same or higher than more traditional ones.”

Planting F1 hybrids on coffee farms

In order for farmers to reap the benefits of new hybrid varieties, a key focus needs to be accessibility. Making it easier to acquire and plant seedlings, for instance, is one area to begin with.

Laurent, for instance, tells me how CIRAD and ECOM have been supporting producers in Vietnam to plant more F1 hybrids.

“The BREEDCAFS project was first implemented in northern Vietnam, with a long-term objective of scaling production if successful,” he says. “ECOM SMS also set up a nursery and propagation site to carry out other trials in the Central Highlands to test different climatic conditions.”

“The three commercial hybrid varieties which performed well in trials in Central America were selected for the BREEDCAFS project in Vietnam,” Laurent says. “These include Centroamericano (H1), Starmaya, and Mundo Maya (EC16).”

As part of planting these new hybrid varieties, CIRAD and ECOM have been encouraging producers to adopt more agroforestry techniques on coffee farms. Essentially, these practices include growing a number of crops (including coffee) among trees and woodland.

Clément explains that this is carried out for a number of reasons.

“In many countries along the Bean Belt, nitrogen-fixing shade trees are mostly planted on coffee farms,” he says. “Shade trees can improve soil conditions and help coffee plants adapt better to microclimates, which can result in higher-quality coffee.

“In Vietnam specifically, most agroforestry systems on coffee farms also include fruit trees,” he adds. “Some fruit trees compete with coffee plants and require high levels of inputs and maintenance, but they provide farmers with higher economic return.”

Because of the increased competition with fruit trees, Clément emphasises why planting more F1 hybrids is so important for Vietnamese arabica farmers.

“The F1 hybrids developed in the BREEDCAFS project are better adapted to shadier environments than traditional varieties, such as Catimor, and can grow well when intercropped with fruit trees,” he explains. “Moreover, fruit trees can help to mitigate extreme variations in temperature as a result of climate change, therefore supporting the future of coffee production.”

By supporting arabica plants to thrive in a higher range of temperatures, Laurent tells me that coffee quality can be improved in the long term.

“Intercropping trees on coffee farms helps producers to develop shade conditions,” he says. “This can ensure the cherries mature more slowly to develop more flavours and aromas.

“As well as this, intercropping can provide more natural pest and disease control methods, alongside increased protection from extreme weather conditions, such as frost, heat waves, or hail,” he adds.

How can hybrid varieties benefit Vietnamese farmers?

There are clearly a number of ways in which hybrid varieties with better climate resilience can help farmers in Vietnam benefit, not least by making arabica production more viable. 

It’s important to note, however, that scaling the production of these hybrid varieties requires extensive support from industry stakeholders.

“Monitoring the impact of these agroforestry practices is necessary,” Laurent says. “Academic research and public-private partnerships are crucial to assess the impact of these practices on yields and quality.

“ECOM SMS supports producers to optimise their inputs – such as fertilisers, water, and labour – and therefore reduce production costs and generate higher profits,” he adds. “What’s more, this helped to lower the farm’s carbon footprint and lessen the impact on the environment.”

And with climate change becoming an increasing concern for the global coffee industry, developing more climate-resilient hybrid varieties has never been more important.

“Hybrid coffee varieties were selected as part of the BREEDCAFS project because they have desirable characteristics,” Clément says. “Previously, the selection was mostly focused on selecting varieties with higher yields, as well as a higher resistance to pests and diseases.

“In more recent years, however, the selection process includes a broader scope to also include coffee quality and climate resilience,” he adds. “The goal is to propagate hybrid varieties that are more compatible with farming practices, such as agroforestry, to create more sustainable farming systems.”

Alongside this, a growing focus on improving arabica quality in Vietnam will benefit farmers and the country’s coffee sector more widely.

“Higher-quality varieties will allow Vietnamese producers to market their coffee better, potentially increasing prices, too,” Laurent explains. “Higher yields, combined with intercropping fruit trees, may generate higher revenue and potentially create new additional benefits, such as carbon sequestration schemes.”

Clément adds that on coffee farms in Latin America, these F1 hybrid varieties have been found to score higher than more traditional arabica varieties.

“On coffee farms in Latin America – where CIRAD first selected and tested hybrid varieties –  F1 hybrids had higher cupping scores than Catimor,” he says. “In Vietnam, we are still measuring the quality results.

“Higher quality should, in theory, increase farmgate prices, which should improve farmers’ profitability and provide them with additional income to face potential future challenges,” he concludes.

With research already showing that hybrids can help drive up quality and be more climate-resilient, they could clearly have a number of benefits for Vietnamese coffee farmers interested in arabica production. 

Going forward, the hope is that the uptake of these varieties could support producers in other countries to adopt agroforestry systems and plant shade trees. Ideally, this would allow them to maintain current farm altitudes, as opposed to “climbing higher” to reach more suitable growing conditions – especially as climate change becomes more of an issue in the coffee industry.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on tasting “forgotten” wild coffee species: an experiment.

Photo credits: Laurent Bossolasco, Clément Rigal

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