Across other parts of the world, meanwhile, the oat milk market is growing, too. Take Latin America for example. The region has an established history of consuming different traditional plant-based drinks, but in recent years, oat milk has clearly become more and more popular in Latin American countries for several reasons.

But will consumption ever reach the same heights as in more developed plant milk markets? And what impact could this have on the Latin American specialty coffee sector? To find out, I spoke to three coffee professionals and a journalist from the region.

You may also like our article exploring why more people didn’t use plant milks at the 2023 World Barista Championship.

A history of milk consumption in Latin America

Cow’s milk is widely available in many places, but it’s easy to forget that just a few centuries ago, its consumption was almost unheard of in certain parts of the world. For many farmers and agricultural workers in particular countries, the cost of purchasing and maintaining livestock and equipment required to produce and sell dairy milk was simply too expensive.

Historically, demand for cow’s milk in North America and Europe began to vastly outpace levels in other countries, including in Latin America. But once pasteurisation, transportation, preservation, and refrigeration technologies became more advanced and established in the region, the dairy market began to boom – largely driven by policy-driven strategies and government-backed marketing campaigns. The dairy industry thereby became a huge part of Latin America’s economy, similar to the US and certain European countries.

The traditional roots of plant-based food and drink

That doesn’t mean, however, that Latinos haven’t consumed plant-based food and drink for centuries either. In many indigenous Latin American cuisines, cow’s milk or other types of animal-based dairy products are not used. And while it’s true that oat milk is a relatively new entrant to the market, other types of plant-based beverages like horchata (which can occasionally contain animal milk) are immensely popular.

Introduced to Latin America by Spanish colonial powers during the 16th century, the drink was traditionally made by soaking ground tiger nuts in water, and then adding sugar, cinnamon, and lemon or lime rind. Since then, each country has adopted its own unique twist on horchata to include more native ingredients, such as:

• El Salvador, where it’s often prepared with ground morro seeds
• Mexico, which is where the most “well-known” version originates from, made using soaked rice
• Other Latin American countries also use ground and soaked peanuts and cashews

Following several state-led school feeding programmes in the 1940s, soy milk also became much more popular in the region. Some thirty years later, many Latin American countries had also become major producers of soybean – particularly Brazil.

Plant milk consumption in Latin America today

Latin America’s interest in commercially-available plant milks – including oat milk – has slowly and steadily grown over the past few years. While the region’s market hasn’t historically experienced as much development and diversification as other countries, its value is set to reach US $3.24 billion by 2028.

The relatively higher costs of manufacturing commercial plant milks has certainly constrained market growth in Latin America – especially considering that the average income per capita is lower compared to North America and Western Europe (where oat milk in particular is much more prevalent).

This, however, has been changing. As the region’s middle-class population – and their disposable income – grows, consumers are willing to spend more on higher-quality plant milks. But potentially even more significant, sustainability and health are becoming increasingly important to Latin American consumers – especially given the high rates of lactose intolerance among the population. One study from The Lancet found that up to 38% of Latinos are lactose intolerant to some degree, compared to 28% of people in northern, southern, and western Europe.

Martín Dalla Zorza is a journalist from Buenos Aires, Argentina. He is also the author of La Cafeteguía, a guide to coffee shops in Buenos Aires, and the co-founder and director of Club de Café, a specialty coffee subscription service. 

“The most widely consumed plant milks in Latin America are almond, soy and oat,” he says. “Coconut and rice are the least widespread.

“Soy is becoming less popular because consumers who value the environment are drinking less of it,” he adds. “People who opt for non-dairy milks are paying more attention to the product, their relationship with it, and sustainability as a whole.”

An emerging oat milk market

José Sojo owns Café Delirante, a coffee shop in Bariloche, Argentina. He says that just three years ago, oat milk wasn’t commercially available in his area.

“It wasn’t popular because so few people had heard about it,” he tells me. “Today, it accounts for 10% of the drinks we serve. 

“A while ago we offered it at no extra charge, which helped to increase demand significantly,” he adds.

Pedro Lisboa is the Head of Coffee Relations at Nude, an oat milk brand in São Paulo, Brazil.

“In comparison to the US and Europe, the Latin American plant milk market has been growing slowly,” Pedro explains. “While the US has more than a 20% market share, Brazil’s is below 3%. 

“Soy milk has been a driving force in the Argentinian market, while cashew milk is also big in Brazil as the country is a prominent producer,” he adds. “There are more options in bigger cities, but it’s still difficult as many supermarkets don’t have dedicated shelf space for plant milks.”

Impact on the Latin American specialty coffee sector

Both Pedro and Martin agree that specialty coffee shops have played an important role in introducing oat milk to the Latin American market. 

Martin in particular believes that as the growing middle class is able to travel internationally, people are trying plant milks in coffee shops abroad, and then returning home and requesting more options in their local cafés.

“Specialty coffee adopted plant milks before other foodservice businesses, especially in countries where drinking coffee with milk is common,” he says. “Coffee shops in trendier neighbourhoods or places frequented by tourists have been pioneers in this regard.”

In turn, the growing trend of barista-formulated plant milks – especially oat-based options – has been impossible to ignore.

Alexander Appel is a co-founder of Nude. He explains how oat milk brands, including in Latin America, are using this to their advantage.

“Both new and traditional brands are releasing barista-formulated versions with pictures of latte art on the packaging,” he tells me. “They are realising the economic and brand positioning advantages this has for them.”

Potential challenges ahead

Given that the Latin American plant milk market is less developed than others around the world, there are still obstacles ahead regarding its growth.

It will certainly take time before plant milks will become as popular as dairy in Central and South American coffee shops, but Martin believes there are pathways to do so.

“Plant milks can mask or change coffee flavour,” he tells me. “This requires re-educating the palate, which can only be achieved in the long term.

“The greatest opportunity for growth is in the cold coffee segment because drinking coffee with milk and ice can be a novel experience for many Latin American consumers, so you can add to it by using plant milks,” he adds.

Plant milks might still be catching on the Latin American market, but recent growth is undeniable – especially for oat milk.

“Price has been a big determining factor in the adoption of plant milks, but its increasing presence in supermarkets and health stores will improve visibility and allow for more competitive pricing,” Martin concludes.

Ultimately, as demand for plant milk in Latin America increases, so will its availability – and variety. And we’re likely to see oat milk come out on top, particularly in specialty coffee shops.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring the importance of Latino representation in specialty coffee.

Photo credits: William de Paula

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Alongside the creamy texture and natural sweetness, latte art is a huge part of why milk-based drinks are so widely consumed. The aesthetic appeal of latte art, as well as the well-textured microfoam used to pour it, add to the overall beverage experience.

However, with an ever-growing range of milks now available on the market – including plant-based options – it can be challenging to know which types of milk are most suitable for latte art.

To find out, I spoke with three coffee professionals. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our guide to working with plant milks.

Why do we add milk to coffee?

In many countries around the world, milk is a staple of most people’s diets – particularly cow’s milk. It’s estimated there are some 270 million cows in the world which produce milk for human consumption. Other cultures, meanwhile, prefer to drink plant milks such as soy.

As well as with many other food and beverage products, many people choose to add milk to coffee – whether as espresso or filter.

There are several reasons for this, but the most prevalent is that milk balances the “classic” bitter flavour profile that most people associate with coffee – changing it to be sweeter and less bitter. Moreover, adding milk to coffee can also enhance the texture of the beverage, making it smoother and more well-rounded.

This is even more apparent when milk is steamed – creating a silky microfoam which can be used to pour latte art.

Why is latte art so popular?

Alessandro Zengiaro is the Technical Lead at Assembly Coffee and Volcano Coffee Works in London, UK. 

“Latte art adds something to the coffee drinking experience,” he says. “Think about cooking – when a dish looks great, it improves the whole eating experience, and so does latte art with coffee.”

In fact, a study from The Journal of Sensory Studies found that customers often pay up to 13% more for high-quality latte art – and are usually happy to do so.

He adds that while customers ultimately enjoy latte art, baristas also benefit from it, too.

“It’s fun for baristas to pour latte art, and it’s a good way for them to showcase their skills,” he explains. “Events like latte art throwdowns or competitions are a good way to engage with the coffee community. 

“It was one of the main reasons I started practising latte art,” he adds.

Alexander Ntatsos is a two-time Swedish Latte Art Champion and owner of Splash Coffee Company in Stockholm, Sweden. 

“Latte art provides enormous scope for creativity,” he tells me. “There are many different techniques that new baristas can learn to help them adopt more skills in a short period of time.

“For example, [a few years ago], it took me about four years to learn how to pour a heart,” he adds. “Today, after one day of training, you can learn to pour rosettas and tulips, and a few days after that, some more advanced patterns.”

The rise of plant milks

While dairy remains the most popular milk for coffee in many different countries, consumption of plant milks has been growing for some time, too. In 2022, retail sales of plant-based milks increased by 6% to reach US $19.1 billion.

There are many reasons why consumers opt for plant milks. For instance, these milks cater to people who are either lactose intolerant or follow a vegan diet. Plant milks can also be more sustainable as they typically have a lower carbon footprint than cow’s milk. 

Attitudes towards plant milks are also changing in specialty coffee – particularly in competitions. Oat milk has been a staple of coffee shops for some time now, but in 2019, Canadian Barista Championship competitor Cristian Tellez used Minor Figures oat milk during his routine. As a result, he received zero points for his milk beverage course.

Similarly, in October 2023, German Barista Championship competitor Mikolaj Pciecha also used oat milk during his performance. The following month, Suedhang Kaffee (which Pciecha worked for) published an open statement made to SCA Germany which requested that the organisation would “refrain from the compulsory use of cow’s milk at all upcoming competitions”, as well as developing a new set of more inclusive rules for the national competition and the World Barista Championship.

This move, along with a number of other events, led to the new plant milk rule at the 2023 World Barista Championship – an indication of more widespread acceptance of plant milks. Following this, several competitors used plant milks at this year’s WBC:

• Danish competitor Patrik Rolf, who placed sixth, used coconut milk as part of a blend
• Canadian competitor and semi-finalist Benjamin Put used a blend containing 40% oat milk
• UK competitor Ian Kissick used a freeze-distilled oat milk

A big part of this is thanks to the higher-quality barista-formulated plant milks which have launched over the past few years, as well as the broader range of varieties available.

So which milk is best for latte art?

It’s fair to say that most consumers expect their milk-based beverages to be served with latte art. However, no matter which milk is used, training is always key.

Renata Zanon is a coffee trainer and consultant in Italy. She believes it’s never been more important for baristas to focus on latte art when training, as well as all aspects of preparing coffee.

“When learning how to pour latte art, we need to teach baristas how to extract great espresso first,” she says. 

Cow’s milk 

Traditionally speaking, baristas use cow’s milk to pour latte art. To do this, they need to incorporate air into the liquid to create microfoam.

Dairy milk contains various proteins, including whey and casein. Through steaming, heat, water, and air unravel these proteins and other compounds – giving a barista some degree of control over the milk’s texture:

• As milk heats up, sugars like lactose break down, which increases sweetness
• At the same time, the hydrophobic ends of the milk proteins are attracted to air bubbles, while the hydrophilic ends bind closely to water molecules
  • This creates a stable membrane that traps air bubbles, which then produces microfoam
• Finally, fats in milk enhance mouthfeel and lead to a creamier texture

“Cow’s milk is the easiest to work with, and gives the best results when it comes to microfoam and texture,” Alessandro says.

Alexander agrees, saying that cow’s milk with 3% to 3.8% fat helps to make the milk more silky and easier to pour latte art. He recommends steaming dairy milk to between 53ºC to 55ºC (127ºF to 131ºF) for the best latte art results.

He continues saying that low-fat or lactose-free milk is sometimes more challenging to use than milk with a higher fat content. Moreover, any changes to a cow’s diet can impact the quality and protein-to-fat ratio of their milk – which also affects how easy it is to work with for pouring latte art.

Plant milks

It’s important to note that there are many different types of commercially-available plant milks.

“Demand for plant-based milks from customers is up and baristas have had to adapt,” Alexander says. “When I moved to Sweden in 2016, it was hard to work consistently with plant milks as some were better than others. 

“Today, you can pour high-quality patterns with almost all of them,” he adds.

However, adding plant milks to more acidic coffees – as well as lighter roasts – can cause curdling. To combat these issues, many plant milk manufacturers add acidity regulators and stabilisers.

Oat milk

Both Alexander and Alessandro agree that oat milk is one of the easiest plant-based milks to work with. Alessandro says that it’s easier to foam than other types, while Alexander recommends steaming and pouring with it in the same way as cow’s milk – especially when first introducing the steam.

Almond milk

Because of its lower fat content, Alexander and Alessandro both agree that it’s challenging to create latte art with almond milk. To avoid any difficulties, Alexander says it’s best to pour simple shapes like hearts and tulips.

Other types of plant-based milks

Alexander tells me he has worked with soy, fava (broad) bean, pea, and potato milks. Of the alternative milks Alessandro has used, he says he found macadamia milk to be the most challenging. 

For soy milk specifically, he says incorporating more air into the liquid helps to enhance the texture of the drink.

When working with other types of plant milks, Alexander recommends introducing steam earlier on in the process. He also suggests not to heat the milk over 55ºC, as well as swirling it during the steaming process.

“I’ve noticed that the same milk from different brands has different foaming properties,” Alexander says. “I suggest keeping the temperature lower than when you steam cow’s milk by adjusting your steaming technique or adding a dash of cold milk before pouring.”

For now, it’s evident that cow’s milk remains the most popular choice for milk-based coffee beverages. Similarly, it’s also clear that dairy produces the best results for latte art.

However, there is no one-size-fits-all approach to steaming milk for latte art. And with plant milks becoming increasingly popular year-on-year, baristas need to learn how to steam a range of milks to produce the highest-quality latte art possible.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the plant milk rule at the World Barista Championship.

Image credits: Alessandro Zengiaro, Alexander Datsos

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The same goes for specialty coffee shops, which now serve a broader range of cold coffee drinks than ever before. But with such high demand for these beverages, coffee businesses need to look for new ways to diversify their cold drink options.

One of the most notable examples of how to do this is with cold milk foam – a fluffy and smooth (yet stable) topping for cold coffee drinks made popular by several coffee chains.

To learn more about how coffee shops can use cold foam, I spoke to four industry professionals. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on exploring the evolution of milk foaming technology in the coffee industry.

Using cold milk foam

Smooth and creamy milk-based coffee beverages, such as lattes and flat whites, are a firm favourite of many consumers around the world.

Cold milk foam beverages have also been popular for some time, too. Take for example the traditional Greek freddo cappuccino, which includes cold milk foam poured over shaken espresso and sugar.

It wasn’t until recently, however, that more and more coffee shops started serving cold milk foam. In 2014, Starbucks debuted its cold milk foam at the Seattle Reserve location, before rolling out cold foam across the US in the ensuing years. Five years later, UK coffee chain Costa Coffee also launched cold milk foam for some of its iced beverages.

Dhan Tamang is a six-time UK Latte Art Champion and the Global Brand Ambassador for Latte Art Factory – an automated milk foaming solution.

He explains why cold milk foam has become so popular.

“It’s such an easy customisation to add cold foam on top of any iced drink,” he tells me.

Enhancing texture

Vadym Saichuk is the Technical Support Manager at Frank Buna. He explains how cold milk foam can also improve both the texture and visual appeal of a drink.

“Creamy and smooth textures improve the overall taste experience for both hot and cold coffee drinks,” he says. “Cold milk foam in particular can be used to make creative, multi-layered drinks that are popular on social media, which can help attract new customers in turn.” 

Considering visual appeal, this is especially important for younger generations who value a more “Instagrammable” aesthetic when it comes to coffee drinks. Similar to the nitro latte, cold milk foam’s smooth-looking texture is particularly popular among Gen Z consumers.

Peter Johanson is the Business Development Manager at Löfbergs, Sweden.

“Cold coffee drinks, especially ones with milk and flavourings, have proven to be an effective way to convert younger drinkers – some of whom don’t enjoy the taste of hot coffee,” he tells me. He adds that over the past few years, sales of cold coffee drinks have seen double-digit growth in countries like Sweden and Denmark.

How to make traditional cold foam

For drinks like the Greek freddo cappuccino, the most common way to make cold milk foam was to add a few cubes of ice to some cold milk in a shaker or mixer.

After vigorously shaking or mixing for a few minutes, you produce a thick and stable cold milk foam to add to cold coffee drinks. Baristas would usually spoon the cold foam onto the beverage, which would retain its thick texture and sit on top of the liquid.

Keith Loh is the Director of Caffeine Solutions in Singapore and Indonesia.

“Although it took a long time to make cold foam this way, it really made the drink taste and feel better,” he says. “Even if the foam was warm, it still added more texture to the beverage.”

Limitations with this method

Up until recently, using a shaker or mixer was really the only way to create stable cold milk foam. However, there are a number of limitations to using this technique.

First and foremost, this method works best with skimmed milk – especially when it’s already cold. This is because it has a higher protein-to-fat ratio, which is essential to create stable and thick cold foam.

This happens for a number of reasons:

• When air is incorporated into the milk (whether through shaking or mixing), proteins disperse throughout the liquid and reduce surface tension
• Proteins contain both hydrophilic and hydrophobic ends, which respectively are attracted to and repel water molecules
• The hydrophobic ends of the proteins point inwards and away from water molecules to form strong bonds
• The lack of fats in skimmed milk means the proteins can fully encase the bubbles formed while air is incorporated into the liquid. This means the foam is much more stiff and rigid

Ultimately, this means it’s difficult to make cold milk foam with certain types of milk – especially plant milks which don’t contain soy – using the traditional method. This is largely down to their variances in protein and fat content.

This technique can also be time consuming, which can impede service and workflow.

“Traditionally speaking, making cold foam can be finicky, and means baristas have more equipment to clean throughout the day,” Dhan tells me.

Vadym agrees, saying: “Using shakers, mixers, and blenders to create consistent and high-quality cold foam are usually labour intensive, and they need to be cleaned after each use.

“Because making cold foam doesn’t use heat, the equipment must be kept clean and sanitised at all times,” he adds.

What are the benefits of serving cold milk foam in beverages?

Given the growing demand for cold coffee beverages, it only seems obvious that specialty coffee shops need to find new ways to serve them.

Cold milk foam presents a viable opportunity to do this. Coffee businesses can diversify their menus and offer new sensory experiences for customers.

“We’re only starting to scratch the surface of the benefits of adding cold foam as an ingredient to drinks,” Keith says. “On a very basic level, if your iced latte – or any milk-based iced beverage – has cold foam on top, you are already one step above your competitors.”

He adds that there could be further possibilities to create and add thicker foam to more dessert-like beverages, or adding different flavours to cold milk foam.

Vadym agrees that cold foam can be a unique selling point for coffee shops.

“Cold foam iced lattes, as opposed to just milk and espresso poured over ice, can be a wow factor and a new experience for customers,” he tells me. “But it’s not just the milk that we can use to make cold foam.

“Baristas could also make cold coffee foam, such as freddo espressos or nitro cold brew,” he adds.

Equipment used to make cold milk foam

We’ve seen many automated solutions adopted across the coffee supply chain – from roasting and espresso machine technology to milk foaming solutions which don’t rely on steam.

For cold milk foam, meanwhile, automation is also starting to play a more key role. One solution is Latte Art Factory, which debuted at the 2023 Specialty Coffee Expo in Portland, Oregon.

“Latte Art Factory doesn’t use steam,” Dhan says. “It dispenses cold milk foam as low as 4°C (39°F) thanks to its patented air pump system.

“You can easily adjust the airflow of the pump, which then allows you to create a range of textures – from liquid to stable foam,” he adds.

Vadym explains how the system works: “For cold foam, milk is stored in the machine’s refrigerator system, which is set between 2°C and 5°C (35°F and 41°F). A heating system can also be turned on to create hot milk foam.

“Baristas are able to pre-set the amount of foam to be dispensed for each recipe and cup size to reduce milk waste,” he adds. “They can also choose between 32 different textures, and a mix of up to three presets per recipe.

“Latte Art Factory includes automatic calibration technology that assesses how much air each type of milk can intake, and then adjusts settings accordingly,” Vadym continues. “Different types of milk (including plant-based options) reach different consistencies, with some milks having a texture similar to soft serve.”

Improving consistency & minimising waste

As with many other automated solutions, it’s essential that systems which create and dispense cold milk foam help to improve consistency in texture, as well as efficiency and productivity.

“Consistency in any product is important,” says Keith. “All customers pay the same amount for the same drink, so they should also receive a consistent beverage every time – that’s a basic requirement that baristas and business owners should strive for.”

In addition to this, reducing milk waste is also important – for both profitability and sustainable reasons. Automated solutions are often much more accurate and efficient at dispensing correct volumes of milk for different drinks. Over time, this can help coffee shop owners save money.

Many automated milk foam solutions also include integrated cleaning and maintenance systems. 
“It takes around 30 seconds to clean the Latte Art Factory at the end of each day, and it cleans itself in just 20 minutes,” Vadym concludes.

Given how milk foaming has evolved in recent years, it’s only natural that the specialty coffee industry embraces innovation for cold milk foam specifically.

Moreover, given how popular cold coffee drinks are, we’re sure to see even more innovation in creating cold milk foam in the coming years.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why milk foam disintegrates.

Photo credits: Latte Art Factory

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According to research from World Coffee Portal in 2021, 16% of UK consumers have tried oat milk in a coffee shop in the past 12 months – making it the most popular plant milk in the country. Moreover, UK sales of oat milk increased by over 100% between 2019 and 2020 to £146 million (US $177.8 million). 

However, the UK is just one example of a market where oat milk is thriving: it has also grown explosively across Europe, the US, Asia, and Latin America.

However, some five years ago, the vast majority of people weren’t even aware of oat milk – at that time, almond, coconut, and soy milk were the only plant-based options available.

So how did oat milk become so popular, and will it continue to be dominant? To find out, I spoke with three industry experts – read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on plant milks in the World Barista Championships.

When was oat milk first invented?

Plant milks have certainly become more popular in recent years – which is largely a result of consumers becoming more environmentally conscious, especially across younger generations.

However, some types of plant milk have been around for centuries. Soy milk, for example, can be traced back to 14th-century China, and was first commercially produced in the late 1910s across Europe, Asia, the US, and Australia.

Oat milk, meanwhile, is much newer than other plant milks. Its origins date back to the early 1990s, when Swedish food scientist Rickard Öste invented the drink while conducting research on lactose intolerance and sustainable food production. Öste later founded Oatly with his brother Bjorn – the first known commercial producer of oat milk.

In the following years, Oatly’s sales remained relatively low, largely because of a lack of marketing and branding. However, in 2012, the company hired current CEO Toni Petersson, who led a more sustainability-focused campaign over the decade that followed – primarily focusing on millennials.

In 2017, as part of its marketing campaigns in the US and UK, Oatly sales representatives provided specialty coffee shops with free samples of its barista-formulated oat milk. 

With many baristas impressed by its neutral flavour, creamy texture, and ability to create high-quality microfoam, more and more coffee shops began to stock it – even leading to stock shortages following sharp rises in demand.

In the years since, more and more competitor brands have launched their own barista oat milks – including Alpro, Minor Figures, Califia Farms, Pacific Foods, Elmhurst, and Chobani – and sales of oat milk have continued to skyrocket.

How big is the market for oat milk?

Sales of plant milks have increased significantly in recent years, but the oat milk market has seen the most growth by far. In the US alone, retail sales of oat milk increased by more than 50% to US $527.44 million in 2022 – indicating its mass appeal among consumers.

Pedro Lisboa is the Head of Coffee Relations at Nude, an oat milk company in São Paulo, Brazil.

“The oat milk market is growing rapidly in the US and Western Europe,” he says. “In Germany, for instance, oat milk represents 60% of the overall plant milk market.”

He adds that while plant milks only account for around 3% of Brazil’s overall milk market, oat milk makes up a significant percentage of this segment.

There are a number of reasons for the explosive growth of oat milk. One of these is that now more than ever, consumers are more mindful of their health, as well as their impact on the environment.

“The production of oat milk results in lower levels of carbon emissions than other plants,” Pedro says. “Even though the production of oats requires more farmland than almond milk, it uses less water. 

“Moreover, land and water use for producing cow’s milk is significantly higher,” he adds.

Jacek Walterowicz is co-founder of (Un)Ordinary, an oat milk brand in the UK.

“Consumers are aware of the sustainable benefits of oat milk, which is one of the most environmentally-friendly dairy alternatives when the ingredients are sourced and produced locally.” 

He explains that (Un)Ordinary sources its oats from Britain, which helps to reduce the company’s carbon footprint.

Alongside sustainability concerns, the growing number of people following a vegan diet has helped oat milk become more popular. According to research from the German vegan supermarket chain Veganz, 2.6 million people stated they were vegan in a 2020 survey – double the number four years prior.

On a similar note, higher levels of lactose intolerance is boosting sales of oat milk in some countries. Research has found that between 90% and 100% of East Asian people have issues consuming lactose, which makes plant milks more attractive in these markets.

And while soy milk is traditionally still very popular in many of these countries, the Asia-Pacific oat milk market is expected to grow by 14.7% year-on-year until 2026.

Many people also believe that the taste and texture of oat milk is better than other plant milks, which has also led to significant growth of the market.

Daisy Swiers is the UK Country Manager for Califia Farms, a plant milk company in California, US. 

“Many consumers prefer oat milk because of its neutral taste and similar mouthfeel to cow’s milk,” she says. “This familiar texture makes it popular among those who want to make a switch to plant-based milks.”

Why is oat milk so popular in specialty coffee?

Although oat milk sales have increased across several food and beverage categories, there has been substantial growth in the specialty coffee market in particular.

“Over the last 15 years, the specialty coffee sector has boomed,” Pedro explains. “As part of specialty coffee culture, baristas use milks which allow a coffee’s complex flavour notes to shine through.

“When steamed, oat milk has a natural sweetness which is similar to cow’s milk,” he adds.

Jacek agrees, saying: “When it comes to taste, oat milk complements the flavours in coffee, and doesn’t overpower them.

“It also performs well when steamed – creating a smooth microfoam with a creamy texture,” he adds.

Oat milk naturally contains less proteins and fats than cow’s milk – both of which are essential to create stable and high-quality microfoam. To compensate for this, many barista-formulated oat milks include plant-based gellan gum. This bonds with calcium molecules to thicken and stabilise microfoam – enabling baristas to pour high-quality latte art. 

This has even led some specialty coffee shops to use oat milk by default, including Blue Bottle and Onyx Coffee Lab. In recent years, we have also seen some national Barista Championship competitors use oat milk in their routines, despite the unwritten rule against doing so.

However, the Specialty Coffee Association recently updated its rules and regulations for several 2023 World Coffee Championships, including the World Barista Championship. As part of these rule changes, a number of plant-based milks can now be used in the milk beverage course – indicating a growing awareness and acceptance of plant milks, including oat milk.

The growth of the plant-based ready-to-drink (RTD) coffee market has also helped to drive the popularity of oat milk. Now more than ever, there is a widening range of oat-based RTD coffee drinks, such as lattes, cold brews, and nitro lattes.

What might the future hold?

Pedro believes that oat milk’s popularity is unlikely to wane anytime soon. However, he notes that there could be a number of challenges which could influence growth.

“We expect more competitor brands to enter the market, as well as a possible decline in the supply of raw materials, and in turn, price increases.

“Furthermore, distribution to smaller towns can be difficult,” he adds. “There are also some regulations on the branding and marketing of oat milk because [using terms like ‘milk’] can cause confusion for some consumers.”

As the term traditionally refers to cow’s milk, some governments and regulating bodies have imposed restrictions on using “milk” or certain other descriptors on plant-based product packaging. Under current European Union legislation, for example, the term “milk” cannot be included on plant milk packaging.

However, despite these potential setbacks, Pedro says that “oat milk will remain the most popular plant milk [for the foreseeable future]”.

He adds: “There will be increased competition from other plant milk brands which use cheaper ingredients, but there will be significant innovation in the oat milk market, in terms of how it’s produced and overall quality.”

Jacek agrees, saying: “The next few years will be challenging for the overall plant milk beverage category, but oat milk will continue to lead the market.”

Daisy believes that consumers’ focus on health will also influence the growth of the oat milk market.

“The plant-based beverage category is showing no signs of slowing down,” she says. “Consumers are looking for plant-based drinks that offer complete nutrition, as well as containing more natural ingredients and less sugar. 

“We anticipate high growth to continue as more people adopt a plant-based diet over the next five to ten years, however, depending on the brand, oat milks can contain more calories and sugars compared to other dairy alternatives,” she adds.

Furthermore, the recent emergence of plant milk blends which contain several base ingredients, such as oat, soy, and sunflower seed, could also have an impact on oat milk sales. Many of these blends have been developed to closely mimic the texture and creaminess of cow’s milk – a trend that is seemingly becoming more popular.

“Consumers have many options now, from independent brands that make fresh, bottled plant milks to more established companies which lead the market and help to create trends,” Jacek says.

It’s fair to say that oat milk has become a staple for many coffee shops around the world, and it’s likely that its growth will continue at pace over the next few years.

However, as the plant milk market gets increasingly saturated with new brands, there’s no denying that oat milk brands will need to differentiate themselves and remain competitive.

“Coffee shops and baristas now have more choice than ever before when it comes to oat drinks, so it’s up to brands to ensure their products stand out,” Daisy concludes.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on what the future holds for plant milks & coffee.

Photo credits: (Un)Ordinary, Nude

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However, in his winning 2022 World Barista Championship (WBC) routine, Australian competitor Anthony Douglas also weighed his milk course beverages to create a more consistent sensory experience for all four WBC judges.

Naturally, this has led to a pertinent question being asked in the specialty coffee sector: should more coffee shops also be weighing milk? And if so, how would this influence both barista workflow and the customer experience?

To find out more about weighing milk in coffee shops, I spoke with several coffee professionals. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on whether we should allow plant milks in the World Barista Championships.

Why weigh milk?

First and foremost, weighing milk-based beverages can help to reduce milk waste, which is particularly useful for coffee shops. Most baristas are trained to carefully eyeball the amount of milk they pour for each drink, but even the most experienced baristas can sometimes use too much.

Of course, this leads to leftover steamed milk, which if not used for other beverages, can quickly increase a coffee shop’s waste costs. In fact, some coffee shops can waste up to US $15 of leftover milk every day.

Anthony Douglas is the training manager at Axil Coffee Roasters in Melbourne, Australia. He is also the 2022 World Barista Champion.

During his winning WBC routine, Anthony prepared his milk course beverages for the judges before weighing each drink on a scale. But why did he do this?

“Baristas and WBC competitors weigh coffee doses and yields, so also weighing your milk can add another level of consistency – especially in competitions,” he says.

Kirk Pearson is the founder of Sub-Zero Coffee, a frozen coffee pop-up shop in Victoria, Australia. 

He emphasises that much like using an optimal coffee-water ratio, baristas and coffee shop owners should do the same with coffee and milk.

“A few years ago, we were using an espresso blend from ONA Coffee,” he says. “[After some experimenting], we found it tasted best with 110g of milk – no less and no more.

“It’s a great example of how weighing milk is so important,” he adds.

Most different kinds of milk (including cow’s milk and certain types of plant milks) taste sweet and have a creamy mouthfeel. In some cases, using too much milk can overpower the delicate and complex flavours in coffee – although this very much depends on the coffee you use. For instance, preparing a Gesha as a milk-based beverage could minimise the more delicate floral flavour notes.

Angus Mackie is a barista trainer at ONA Coffee and the creator of Nucleus Coffee Tool’s Compass. 

“Milk-based coffee beverages shouldn’t be considered any less important than black coffee,” he tells me. “Different amounts of milk can result in different sensory experiences when drinking a milk-based beverage, as different volumes and textures of milk can change the sweetness of a drink.”

Angus explains that after he was diagnosed with tongue cancer a few years ago, more than half of his tongue was surgically removed – leading to significant damage to his taste receptors. He says that while he was training to regain more of his palate back, milk-based beverages were particularly useful for identifying certain flavour notes and aromas.

“Moreover, weighing milk is a useful practice when training baristas to improve their milk steaming and pouring skills, as well as their palates,” he adds.

Should more coffee shops be weighing milk?

Considering the various benefits that we’ve just listed, should more coffee shops start weighing milk?

“In Melbourne specifically, around 80% of drinks served in coffee shops are milk-based – typically flat whites and lattes,” Anthony explains. 

However, Kirk tells me that weighing milk is not a common practice in the country.

“Only around 5% of Australian coffee shops weigh milk, but I would love to see more of them doing it,” he says. 

He emphasises that weighing milk for each milk-based beverage is often not practical for many baristas, which could be the reason for low uptake. However, he adds that automated milk steaming and foaming systems could help to improve barista workflow if weighing milk is something they want to start doing.

“Some coffee shops, like Axil and ONA, use automatic milk foaming systems like Übermilk,” he says. “Although it may not be realistic to weigh milk for every beverage, automated systems can dispense predetermined amounts of milk.”

Hany Ezzat is a Sales and Guest Roaster Manager at ONA Coffee. He explains that the practice of weighing milk is more common in specialty coffee shops which serve more exclusive and high-end coffees.

“Coffee shops are more likely to weigh milk if they’re using single origin coffee roasted for espresso, or if they’re serving a reserve coffee,” he says. “If a customer is paying a more premium price then they should receive a more premium service, which includes baristas being more accurate and precise with coffee to milk ratios.”

Anthony agrees, saying: “Weighing milk helps to ensure consistency, as well as training baristas to understand how different amounts of microfoam affect milk-based beverages.”

Considering the impact on baristas and consumers

Although weighing milk-based beverages could significantly slow down workflow during busy rushes, baristas could instead carry out this practice during quieter periods. This way, they have more time to focus on how they need to steam the milk to reach the required weight.

Overall, Hany believes that weighing milk is advantageous for baristas.

“It’s a positive thing,” he says. “It allows them to understand more about how to prepare and serve high-quality beverages.

“Personally, I teach the baristas I work with that they should texture milk to one consistency so that every milk-based drink has between 0.75cm and 1cm of microfoam,” he adds. 

Hany explains that in his experience, preparing milk-based beverages (mainly of a similar size, such as cappuccino and a flat white) to a more consistent texture and weight means showing the full spectrum of each coffee’s flavours.

“For instance, a roaster may develop a roast profile so that when extracted as espresso, the coffee can be paired with around 120g of milk,” he tells me. “This means that baristas should steam the milk [with a target weight in mind].

“Milk with more microfoam will weigh less than milk with less foam,” he adds. “The amount of microfoam will also have a big impact on beverage texture.

“You can weigh 120g of milk for a 6oz (170ml) drink, but if the milk isn’t textured correctly, it can negatively affect the consumer experience,” Hany continues.

Ultimately, if the coffee to milk ratio is too overpowering, or the milk texture isn’t smooth enough, consumers could receive a lower-quality beverage. However, for the most part, if baristas are trained to steam and pour milk well, the majority of consumers will receive high-quality milk-based drinks.

Will we see this practice more in coffee shops and competitions over the next few years?

In general, all of the coffee professionals I spoke with believe that Anthony’s winning WBC performance will lead to more coffee shops – as well as other WBC competitors – weighing their milk-based beverages.

“Throughout the years, WBC competitors are starting to control more and more variables,” Anthony says. “I definitely see consistency in the weight of milk becoming more prominent moving forward.

“Although two different types of steamed milk may reach the same level in a cup, they could have completely different textures,” he adds. “If you weigh the beverage after you have poured the milk, however, it’s a useful indicator as to how much foam you have created.”

He tells me how weighing milk helped him to develop the milk course section of his 2022 WBC routine.

“I trained a lot using the same amount of milk and the same workflow,” he says. “The difference between each beverage I weighed was roughly 0.2g.”

Competitions like the WBC assess a variety of technical barista skills, including precision, accuracy, and consistency. In theory, this means serving more consistent drinks to competition judges – whether in weight, flavour, appearance, or any other factor – could lead to higher overall scores.

However, despite indications that the practice of weighing milk could become common, Angus believes it could take some time for coffee shops to start adopting it.

“Milk-based beverage tasting workshops could be a useful tool,” he says. “Many coffee shops hold black coffee cupping sessions, but milk-based beverages can have a different range of sensory experiences [for both baristas and consumers]. 

“Adding milk to coffee can emphasise different levels of sweetness,” he adds. 

In order to assist baristas to understand more about weighing milk-based beverages, Angus suggests a training exercise:

1. Prepare two milk-based drinks using the same espresso recipe and steam two jugs of milk to the same texture.
2. Pour each beverage, but with a 10g weight difference. Taste to compare how different weights affect the beverage.
3. Then, prepare two-milk based drinks using the same espresso recipe, but steam two jugs of milk to different textures.
4. Pour the same weight of milk in each drink. Taste to compare how different textures affect the beverage.

Although it may not be suitable for every coffee shop, there are clear benefits to weighing milk-based drinks for baristas, café owners, and consumers alike. Not only can waste be reduced, but overall beverage quality could also increase – an important consideration for WBC competitors, too.

However, whether or not we will see more coffee shops weighing milk-based beverages in the coming years remains to be seen. But with more and more coffee shops implementing automated milk foaming solutions into their businesses, it could become easier for baristas to start weighing their milk while also maintaining a good workflow.

Enjoyed this? Then read our guide to working with plant milks.

Photo credits: Hany Ezzat, World Coffee Events

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In his winning 2022 WBC performance, we saw Australian competitor Anthony Douglas use one of the latter for his milk course category. During his routine, Anthony described a process called cryodesiccation (which is similar to freeze drying) and explained that he processed his milk using this technique.

Anthony mentions that cryodesiccation helped to enhance the natural sweetness and creaminess of his milk, and ultimately created a higher-quality beverage and overall sensory experience.

So how exactly does this process work, and could it have an influence on the wider specialty coffee sector?

To find out, I spoke with two coffee professionals. Read on to find out what they had to say. 

You may also like our article introducing extract chilling in coffee.

Understanding the cryodesiccation process

Cryodesiccation (also known as freeze drying or lyophilisation) is essentially a low temperature dehydration process. It’s mainly used in food, beverage, and pharmaceutical industries to prolong shelf life, while still maintaining quality.

In fact, the vast majority of instant coffees are freeze dried. This helps to create a more convenient product; however, the process still preserves some of the coffee’s flavours and aromas.

Broadly speaking, there are four main stages to the cryodesiccation process: pretreatment, freezing, primary drying, and secondary drying. Overall, the process involves the application of low temperatures and various different pressures to remove moisture.

Anthony Douglas is the training manager at Axil Coffee Roasters, as well as the 2022 World Barista Champion. He explains how he produced cryodesiccated milk for his WBC routine.

“Firstly, we filled metal trays with milk and then froze them,” he says. “We then placed the trays inside a vacuum chamber.

“We lowered the pressure inside the chamber and applied gentle heat underneath the trays [over a 24-hour period],” he adds. “This causes water in the frozen milk to turn into a vapour, rather than a liquid, as it thaws, which leaves behind a powder-like substance. 

“Because the process uses lower temperatures, the milk still retains a lot of its natural flavours, which are then concentrated,” he continues. 

How does the process affect flavour and mouthfeel?

In his winning 2022 WBC routine, Anthony mentions that the cryodesiccated milk powder he created was concentrated by about 900 times. He explains that he then recombined 30g of the powder with 300g of fresh milk to “double the concentration of sugars, fats, and proteins”. 

Ultimately, this helped to make his milk course beverages taste much sweeter and gave them a creamier mouthfeel, as well as possibly helping to produce better-quality latte art because of the higher amount of proteins in the milk.

“We were already using high-quality milk from Riverina Fresh, but we were struggling to create  consistent-tasting milk course beverages,” Anthony explains. “This led us to try cryodesiccation.

“We chose to use this process in my WBC routine because it didn’t change the flavour of the milk – instead, it concentrated all of its desirable aspects, such as sweetness and creaminess,” he adds. 

“When combined with coffee – specifically the anaerobic natural Sidra variety from El Diviso in Colombia – it resulted in a sweet and lush milk-based drink which helped to enhance and balance the coffee’s flavours with certain qualities of the milk,” he continues.

Have similar processes been used at the WBC before?

Although no previous WBC competitors have used cryodesiccated ingredients in their routines before Anthony, some have used similar processes for milk.

It’s believed that Canadian competitor Ben Put was the first person to use such a process at the 2017 WBC, when he concentrated his milk using freeze distillation. Morgan Eckroth, who placed second at the 2022 WBC, also used freeze-distilled whole milk in their routine to further enhance the sweetness of the coffee they served.

Freeze distilling is somewhat similar to cryodesiccation. The process works by partially freezing a liquid and then removing some of the frozen segments to produce a more concentrated liquid. With milk, this means that it will taste sweeter, richer, and creamier as more of its water content is removed.

Anthony explains the differences between the two processes.

“Different compounds thaw at different rates, so when you create freeze-distilled milk, not all of the compounds will concentrate at an even rate,” he tells me. “In my experience, you also have to get the timings and temperature right to ensure you can thaw the milk at the same rate each time you carry out the process.

“However, with cryodesiccation, milk reduces it to a powder-like substance which is consistently concentrated every single time,” he adds. “This process also increases shelf life, so when you want to use the powder, you can combine it with fresh milk at the concentration which works best, which for us was 1.8 times concentrated.”

But these processes are not just used for milk – some competitors have also carried out similar techniques with other ingredients.

Hugh Kelly is the training manager and head of Research & Development at ONA Coffee. He is also a three-time Australian Barista Champion.

He tells me about the freeze drying method, and how he has incorporated this process in several of his WBC routines – and has even used it for espresso.

“I have used freeze-dried ice cream, lychee, and peach in some of my signature drinks over the years,” he explains. “The process has a significant impact on mouthfeel and flavour, but it also usually allows for fresher-tasting fruit notes compared to dried fruit notes, which are usually more caramelised.

“When freeze-dried ingredients are ground into a powder and mixed with wet ingredients, it creates a very consistent product, in terms of water and Brix content,” he adds. “It’s also very easy to infuse the powder into liquids.”

What factors do you need to consider when using cryodesiccated milk?

For Anthony, milk concentration is just as important as any other extraction variable.

“It’s an extra variable to consider alongside dose, yield, and total extraction time,” he says. “It gives you more freedom to express the flavours in coffee.”

As it is a relatively new process to specialty coffee, there are understandably many factors to take into account when using cryodesiccation.

“This technique is still new to us, so we are still finding our way around it,” Anthony says. “The most important thing is to not over-concentrate your milk, as this can overpower the flavours of the coffee.”

This is because the sweetness and richness of the milk becomes much more intense, which can mask more delicate flavour notes in certain coffees. Ultimately, the enhanced sweetness and creaminess of the milk still needs to complement whichever coffee you decide to use.

“The different concentrations of milk also allow you to explore different extraction styles,” he continues. “For example, cryodesiccated milk which is more concentrated can work better with espresso which is extracted using a higher coffee-water ratio.” 

For context, espresso is usually extracted at a 1:2 ratio – meaning one part coffee to two parts water.

When it comes to steaming cryodesiccated milk, Anthony says that the method is largely the same as preparing regular milk.

“However, the higher concentration of fats and proteins in the milk will improve the quality of microfoam, as well as how you experience the coffee’s flavours,” he says.

Although Anthony explains that he has only used cryodesiccation with whole milk, he believes that the process could be used with various different types of milk – including plant-based options.

Will we see this process more in competitions and coffee shops?

Firstly, it’s important to note that in order to create cryodesiccated milk, you certainly need to invest in costly equipment – which undoubtedly would also take up a significant amount of space. 

Ultimately, this means that for many coffee shops and World Coffee Championship competitors, cryodesiccation may not be a feasible option.

Hugh believes that although competitors might continue to use similar techniques as part of their routines, most coffee shops are unlikely to adopt these practices.

“Using concentrated milk makes more sense for competitors than it does for coffee shops because it creates more impact for every sip of coffee you drink,” he tells me. “But if you drink too much of it, it could be off-putting, so finding the right balance and intensity is key.”

He points that using freeze-dried milk could be a more accessible option for some coffee shops.

“However, the main issue could be having access to high-quality freeze-dried milk,” he says. “There are few freeze-dried milk powders which are specifically designed for coffee because many of them don’t have the right ratio of fats, sugars, and proteins.”

Innovation is an integral part of the WBC, and milk processing is also a part of this – it allows competitors to express different flavours and textures in coffee.

“Trying milk-based beverages in new ways can significantly improve the overall sensory experience, which can be a truly unique selling point for a coffee shop, or focus of a competitor’s routine,” Hugh concludes.

However, considering the time, space, and equipment required for processes like cryodessication, it’s unlikely that it will become a widespread change for coffee shops any time soon.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring the evolution of milk foaming technology in the coffee industry.

Photo credits: World Coffee Events, Melbourne International Coffee Expo, Hugh Kelly

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However, in recent years, there has been criticism over a lack of inclusivity and accessibility in these competitions. One of the issues related to these criticisms, but which is often overlooked, is the rule that competitors must use dairy in their routines.

Some argue that the unwritten ban on plant-based milks excludes certain competitors. The rule also acts as a barrier to further innovation – a characteristic which these competitions, particularly the WBC, are revered for by the specialty coffee industry.

To explore the case for allowing plant milks in the WCC (with a particular focus on the WBC) I spoke with three coffee professionals. Read on to find out more.

You may also like our article on what the future holds for plant milks and coffee.

Rules on using dairy in the World Coffee Championships

The 2021 WBC Official Rules and Regulations state that competitors must produce a “milk beverage” containing “one single shot of espresso… [and] steamed cow’s milk”. The rules also state that competitors can be provided with only “whole milk”.

Similarly, the 2021 WLAC Official Rules and Regulations state competitors “are required to use the milk provided by the WLAC”. This is also exclusively cow’s milk.

Jack Mockford is a barista at Gourmet Coffee Bar in Leicester, UK. He explains to me why he thinks the exclusive use of dairy became a rule.

“Mainly for traditional reasons,” he says. “It’s been assumed that the best way to make a milk-based coffee beverage is with whole milk because of its high-quality microfoam – particularly for cappuccinos.”

However, things haven’t always been so straightforward. Cristian Tellez is the Director of Coffee at Ditta Artigianale in Toronto, Canada. He is also a brand ambassador for Myracle Kitchen, the North American arm of the plant-based Rebel Kitchen brand. 

Cristian competed in the 2019 Canadian Barista Championships using oat milk instead of dairy. He tells me about when he believes the requirement to use dairy was added.

“The rules generally assumed that people would use cow’s milk, but it wasn’t stated as an official rule until an UAE competitor allegedly used camel’s milk,” Cristian says. “The judges didn’t know how to assess this, so the cow’s milk rule was instated.”

However, while camel’s milk may be a less popular alternative to cow’s milk in the specialty coffee industry, plant-based milks are considerably more established. The global non-dairy market is expected to be worth US $40.6 billion by 2026.

“In the signature beverage round of the WBC, there’s so much freedom for competitors to express themselves,” Jack tells me. “So why should they be restricted to using a particular type of milk in the milk-based round?”

Why are plant-based milks excluded?

Josh Tarlo is the Head of Coffee at Kiss The Hippo in London, and the 2018 UK Barista Champion. He emphasises the importance of distinguishing between the WBC and the WLAC regarding the rule on dairy.

“It’s important to separate the WBC and the WLAC on this issue as it’s for different reasons,” Josh says. “However, both are most likely based on a lack of will by decision makers – maybe because they’re taking on a controversial subject.”

He elaborates on how changing existing rules, or instating new ones, could be an arduous task for World Coffee Events (WCE) and the SCA, who organise the WCC events.

“There would be a need to revise score sheets and rules, and this task may be too difficult or time consuming,” he says. “This is down to the volunteer nature of the committees who make these changes.”

Jack, meanwhile, believes that funding plays a significant role in maintaining the current rules on using dairy.

“There might be some financial incentive to not make changes because of funding from certain sponsors,” he tells me. “Usually a dairy company sponsors the events, which may mean there’s resistance to changing the rules.”

Jack highlights how allowing plant milks could also lead to further rule changes.

“If plant milks are accepted in the competitions, WCE would also have to address which animal milks can be used. If plant milks aren’t allowed, WCE can strictly stick with a specific type of cow’s milk.”

Cristian adds: “Dairy comes directly from cows, so it’s essentially one ingredient, whereas plant-based milks consist of several ingredients.

“It can become complicated because plant milks are effectively a blend of different ingredients,” he says. 

Issues with excluding non-dairy milks

There are a number of issues with excluding plant milks from WCC events.

First and foremost, Jack says: “Vegan or lactose intolerant barista competitors can’t experience their coffees to the same extent as other competitors using dairy.

“If they’re not able to compete using milk that they can drink, it puts them at a fundamental disadvantage.”

Cristian, meanwhile, explains how he has often had to put aside his personal values to take part in coffee competitions.

“For every year I have competed, I have had a certain level of moral flexibility. Since I started working in coffee in 2005, I have had to serve dairy, but I had to accept that.

“But for me, being vegan is an ethical choice that I stick to because it’s important to me.”

When performing at the WBC, competitors are encouraged to demonstrate their personalities, as well as their coffee skills and knowledge. For competitors who don’t consume dairy, the obligation to use cow’s milk arguably doesn’t allow them to fully express themselves.

However, the issues related to dairy are much more widespread.

“The dairy industry contributes 3.4% of the world’s carbon emissions. Thirteen of the largest global dairy farms contribute more carbon emissions than all of the UK,” Josh tells me. 

In addition, dairy cows often live much shorter lives – a decrease of around 14 or 15 years on the average lifespan of 20 years.

Challenging the status quo

In 2019, Cristian decided to challenge the dairy rule when he competed in the Canadian Barista Championships.

“I served my milk-based drinks last, which no competitor usually does,” he says. “I was highlighting that the coffee industry talks so much about sustainability, but few of us are talking about the impacts of mass-scale animal agriculture on the planet.”

Even though the Vegetarian Society claims that only 2% to 3% of the UK population is vegan, research from The Guardian reports that over a third of people in the country are interested in transitioning to a plant-based diet. Since 2015, Google searches for “vegan” have doubled in the US; in other countries, such as Australia, France, and Spain, they have tripled.

Clearly the interest in plant milks is growing – including in the coffee industry – so why the unwritten ban on them?

“When I used oat milk, I assumed it was an automatic disqualification because usually if you blatantly violate the rules, you can be disqualified,” Cristian explains. “I actually received zero for my milk-based round, so there was no chance of me winning the competition.”

He adds that while he mostly received positive feedback for his decision – which culminated in an online petition to change the WBC rules – there was some backlash.

“Some people thought I was being selfish by taking a place in the competition knowing I wouldn’t have a chance of winning,” he says. “I understand this point of view, but at the same time, we need to provoke change in the industry.”

Josh agrees with Cristian’s perspective on pushing for positive change.

“These competitions are where we showcase not only coffee as it already is, but as we wish it to be,” he says. “We push coffee forward, we innovate, and we change it.

“If we want to align these competitions with the values of today’s coffee industry, then one of the first steps is allowing alternative milks in competitions.”

Jack points out that WBC competitors often experiment with cow’s milk in their routines, particularly for the signature beverage round.

“Competitors are allowed to select their own cow’s milk to achieve different characteristics and levels of creaminess, as well as being able to treat milk prior to the competition by using different temperatures,” he tells me. “In that respect, the competition isn’t a level playing field.”

Will the rules change?

Despite the fact that dairy is considered to be more “traditional”, plant milks have been around for centuries. Soy milk dates back to 14th-century China, while almond milk first showed up in medieval European cookbooks. 

However, they have historically not been as popular as dairy.

Research suggests that this is changing. According to World Coffee Portal, some 60% of people reported trying a plant milk in their coffee in 2019. Alongside this, some coffee shops are even using oat milk by default, including Blue Bottle and Onyx Coffee Lab.

So is it time for a change to the WBC rules? All three interviewees unanimously agree that it is.

Jack says: “It wouldn’t be progressive for the SCA to not reflect changes in specialty coffee culture. Plant-based milks are a mainstay in coffee shops now.

“By using plant milks, you’re not necessarily putting yourself at an advantage. Whole milk steams impeccably and you usually get the best textures when using it.”

Josh, meanwhile, believes a rule change is necessary to create a more inclusive competition environment.

“If we exclude people who have a moral objection or dietary inability to consume dairy, we lose out on their knowledge and skills,” he says.

As for how to change the rules, Jack has some suggestions.

“Any plant-based milks which are commercially available as barista-formulated products could be acceptable because they are part of wider specialty coffee culture,” he says. “The SCA and WCE can write up an approved list of plant milks that represent the scope of products available on the market.”

However, he points out that it may be necessary to differentiate between the WBC and WLAC when changing the rules to include plant milks.

“Because the WLAC scoring system is based on aesthetics, there is perhaps more of an argument to be made for having a separate plant milk competition.”

Ultimately, any changes to the exclusive use of dairy in the WBC is down to the SCA and WCE. But considering the enormous popularity of plant-based milks, it’s safe to assume that the competitions may take on a more inclusive approach in the future.

“The first time I ever competed I had to serve sugar with my coffee,” Cristian concludes. “The rules change and we decide this as an industry. We’re professionals, we can handle changes in competitions.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether the World Barista Championship needs to change.

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As one of these many forms of coffee, ready to drink (RTD) coffee is rapidly becoming popular with consumers. For many, its appeal lies in its convenience: consumers can quickly stop somewhere and easily grab a pre-prepared RTD coffee out of a cooler or off of a shelf, and then be on their way.

However, as RTD coffee has become more popular, the segment has evolved to accommodate the needs of the modern customer. It’s no surprise, then, that plant-based RTD coffee beverages are becoming more popular with consumers around the world. 

I spoke to two individuals whose brands focus on dairy-free options to learn more about the RTD space, the different options available to consumers, and the future of this growing category. Read on to learn more.

You might also like our article on six consumer trends around the world and how café owners can adapt to them.

How has the RTD segment grown and changed?

Over the past few years, the RTD coffee category has undergone rapid and explosive growth, which is only set to continue. According to research from Mordor Intelligence, the segment is projected to grow by some 7.69% every year between 2021 and 2026. 

This growth has been fuelled by consumers looking for convenience, the emergence of cold coffee trends, and in some cases, a focus on healthier alternatives. These trends are themselves all driven by consumers from younger generations: Generation Z and millennials.

Additionally, over the past two years, the Covid-19 pandemic has pushed more consumers to order coffee online as hospitality businesses around the world shuttered. This meant there was a huge spike in at-home coffee consumption (specifically in 2020) which has in turn contributed to the growth of the RTD space.  

RTD coffees are often found in bottles and cans, and sold in many different forms. In the past few years, RTD brands have adapted to roll out new products that meet growing consumer demand, which includes cold brew, milk-based coffees, hard coffees, and plant-based options. 

Plant milk & the RTD space

Jarrett McGovern is the co-founder of Rise Brewing Company, a RTD coffee company based in New York City, US. He tells me how he’s seen first-hand that the marketplace is changing and growing to accommodate plant-based options.

“We have seen a huge shift towards plant-based foods and beverages,” he says. “Consumers are starting to realise that plant-based products can be healthier and taste better.”

He says that the carbon footprint of plant-based milks is generally much lower, which means they’re more environmentally friendly – something which also appeals to many millennial and Generation Z consumers.

“In many cases, they even have a longer shelf life for the consumer and celebrate more sustainable farming practices,” he adds.

Abby Sutton is the marketing manager at First Press Coffee, a Melbourne, Australia-based company with a strong focus on RTD coffee. She echoes Jarrett’s sentiments on plant-based products.

“We first launched our plant based iced coffees in early 2020 in response to growing demand for a healthier and indulgent alternative,” she explains.

Why do consumers choose to go plant-based?

Both interviewees note that one of the key motivations for opting for plant-based beverages is health and wellbeing.

Over the last few years, we’ve seen a growing uptake of veganism and flexitarian diets across many major coffee consuming markets.

In the US, a 2019 survey saw as many as 6% of all consumers say they were vegan, which was a staggering 500% increase in just five years. Meanwhile, UK charity Viva! says that 45% of the vegans it surveyed chose the lifestyle for health reasons.

However, this isn’t the only motivation for choosing plant-based milk.

“Consumers choose dairy-free for a variety of reasons,” Jarrett says. “There is a clean refreshing taste to plant-based products, and the nutritional value is often better than that of dairy products.”

Jarrett also notes that Rise’s dairy-free products are totally cholesterol-free, as well as being environmentally responsible. 

“When you choose a dairy-free product, you also promote the farmers that grow the plant-based alternative,” he says. “Often, their practices create a healthier earth and introduce fewer toxins into the land.”

Abby, however, notes that diet is a key change, but also that people don’t necessarily have to be vegan to choose plant milks. 

“The rise of the flexitarian has encouraged people to try new ways of enjoying milk-based drinks,” she says. “These can be beneficial to those with dietary requirements, as well as those seeking to thread a little lighter on the environment.”

So, what options are there for plant-based RTD beverages?

As recently as just 10 or 15 years ago, soy milk was pretty much the only prominent alternative to dairy. However, in the 2010s, this changed dramatically, and plenty of new plant-based milks entered the market.

“Gone are the days when a café could stock just dairy and soy,” Abby explains. “Furthermore, the amount of choice in the market has definitely fuelled a discussion around sustainability and normalised dietary requirements.”

More and more brands and coffee shops now offer a range of plant-based milk options, recognising that there can be flavour differentiation under the dairy-free umbrella. Alongside mainstays such as oat, almond, and soy, we’ve seen coconut, cashew, pea, and even potato enter the market in recent years. 

This is true for RTD brands just as it is for coffee shops. Within the segment, there seems to be a widespread desire to innovate and offer new milks and “flavours”.

In line with this, Jarrett tells me that Rise’s has seen a great amount of success come from investing and innovating in the breadth of its product range.

“All Rise products are dairy-free,” he says. “We offer nitro black cold brew coffee, as well as a series of lattes, including original oat milk, vanilla, and chocolate. We also offer our ‘London Fog’, a tea latte and a line of organic oat milks.”

Historically, RTD products have also been sweetened or flavoured to make them more appealing to everyday consumers who have less knowledge of the coffee sector. However, using plant-based milks can often achieve this without adding sugar. 

Almond milk, for instance, adds a pleasant nutty sweetness to an RTD beverage, but allows the brand to maintain its “no added sugar” label – appealing to health-conscious consumers in the process.

Like Jarrett, Abby believes it’s important to continue to innovate and offer customers a range of options as the demand for both RTD coffee and plant-based milk grows.

“Our business began with a line of black cold drip coffee beverages designed to provide clean, natural energy,” she says. “It has since grown to include three Australian almond milk iced coffees (original, no added sugar, and mocha) and an Australian oat milk iced coffee.”

By introducing plant-based RTD coffee options and continually expanding upon existing product lines with new milks and flavours, brands are offering consumers both choice and flexibility. 

Looking to the future

With the RTD market segment and plant-based milk consumption both poised to continue growing, the future for the segment is bright. Both consumers and brands are seeing that dairy-free options aren’t just better for the environment, but also that they actually taste as good if not better than some of their dairy counterparts.

Abby says she’s excited by this shift in consumer tastes. “People are seeking better, local and more sustainable alternatives,” she says. “Consumers want to minimise their environmental impact but still enjoy themselves and indulge.”

Jarrett agrees, saying there’s plenty of space for the innovation to continue. “In the future, we’re going to see even more amazing dairy-free options, and find new plants, fruits, and nuts that not only taste amazing, but have incredible health benefits, too.”

Plant-based RTD coffee beverages provide a rapidly-growing amount of choice and flexibility to a base of consumers who want convenient ways to drink dairy-free coffee beverages. 

As such, supermarkets and convenience stores are gradually giving more space to these plant-based products, with new brands entering the marketplace on a regular basis.

“Ultimately, we are not just selling a product, we are selling a belief. We create beverages for people who have a similar outlook on life,” Jarrett concludes. “We get really excited about creating the best tasting beverage we can using organic plant-based ingredients, and we are attracted to other brands that do the same.”

Enjoyed this? Then try our article exploring RTD milk based coffee.

Photo credits: First Press Coffee, Rise Brewing Company, Pexels

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However, growing concerns over the environmental and ethical impact of dairy production have led many to seek out alternatives in recent years. This has led to an astronomic rise in the popularity of plant-based milks, including soy, almond, oat, and coconut.

Many expect to see tremendous growth in the market, meaning one thing: people are talking about what the future holds for the plant milk sector.

To answer this question and look at why plant milks are so popular, I spoke with two experts. Read on to find out what they said.

You may also like our guide on choosing a non-dairy milk for specialty coffee.

A brief history of plant milk

While plant milks are a relatively new addition to the coffee shop menu, they have been around for hundreds of years.

One of the earliest recorded examples is almond milk, which has actually been mentioned in medieval cookbooks found across Europe. Many believe it became popular after the publication of a Christian treatise that forbade dairy consumption on certain days of the week.

This prompted a search for dairy-free alternatives, leading to the discovery of various nut milks, including almond, pistachio, and hazelnut.

Historically, almond milk was made by soaking ground almonds in water and straining through a cloth. However, because of the cost of foreign imports, it was an ingredient enjoyed predominantly by the wealthy, promoted as a nutritious and safe alternative to cow’s milk.

Beyond Europe, we can trace the early origins of soy milk back to 14th-century China. In particular, a tofu broth, known as doufujiang, is even believed to have been an early predecessor. However, it wasn’t until much later that it appeared outside of China, spreading to nearby Vietnam and Japan by the late 1700s.

Soy milk was first commercially produced over 100 years later in 1917. By the 1980s, it was available across the US, Europe, Asia, and Australia. US sales peaked at US $1.2 billion in 2008, before a steep decline caused by rumours about soy milk’s impact on human health and the environment.

Since the late 2000s, global almond milk sales have grown exponentially. Estimates put the current global market value at more than US $6 billion, and it is expected to double by 2025. 

Beyond almond and soy milk, another third early plant milk can be traced back hundreds of years: coconut milk. Coconut milk has been used in Southeast Asian, African, and Indian cooking for centuries.

Today, it is used in an increasingly varied number of ways, including as a dairy substitute in coffee shops. A rise in consumer demand for healthy ingredients has seen it grow in sales around the world, while its high mineral and vitamin content make it a good nutritional substitute.

Gen Z, Oatly, and the rise of barista formula milks

Despite a steady rise throughout the early 21st century, the plant milk sector has only experienced meteoric growth in the past few years.

Analysis by the Plant Based Foods Association found that sales of plant-based milks grew 5% between 2019 and 2020, altogether accounting for 14% of all milk sales in the US. And while cow’s milk remains dominant, its sales have largely stagnated, rising by just 0.1% during the same period.

Lauren Visagie is the UK Marketing Manager for Califia Farms, a plant-based beverage company headquartered in California. She tells me that it is the younger generations who are leading this charge towards plant milk.

“In general, Generation Z are buying less dairy and switching to plant-based foods,” Lauren tells me. “This is because young people are increasingly concerned about their health, ethics, and the environment.”

While there is no definitive answer, many publications use the year 1997 at the point at which Generation Z begins. This means that Generation Z, consumers are largely 24 or younger at the time of writing. 

According to recent data from market research firm Mintel, one-third of 16 to 24 year olds in the UK drink plant milks. The same research states that the number of people buying cow’s milk in the same age group fell by 6% (from 79% to 73%) between 2018 and 2019.

Camilla Barnard is the co-founder and Marketing Director of Rude Health, a UK-based dairy-free drinks and cereals company.

“More than half of dairy-alternative shoppers buy into the category because of its environmentally friendly credentials,” she says. “The rise of the internet and social media has made this information much easier to find.”

Thanks to this surge in popularity, a number of plant milk companies have seen substantial growth. Today, perhaps one of the most well-known is Swedish brand Oatly. 

Founded in 1994, Oatly witnessed a dramatic spike in sales after entering the US market in 2016. Since then, their oat milk range has become a staple in the coffee sector, and is popular among baristas and consumers alike.

Between 2017 and 2018, Oatly’s revenues increased by US $15 million. In the UK, demand has previously been so high that consumers have experienced countrywide shortages.

Furthermore, in February 2021, Oatly aired a 30-second advertisement at Super Bowl LV. Entertainment publication Variety estimates that the network hosting the Super Bowl, CBS, charges approximately US $5.5 million for this slot.

“The total oat drink category is valued at £90 million,” Lauren says. “Oat barista drinks now make up a third of all sales.” 

Oatly’s rise in popularity has even paved the way for specialist barista plant milks. As plant milks don’t contain the same level of fat found in cow’s milk, these formulas often contain added stabilisers and fats to produce higher quality and more “workable” microfoam.

What are the challenges?

Despite this extraordinary growth in the plant milk sector, there have also been some challenges.

As plant milks have “boomed” relatively quickly, it has taken some time for the regulatory landscape to catch up. For instance, it wasn’t until 2017 that a European Court of Justice ruling decreed that EU companies producing plant-based products couldn’t use terms such as “milk”, “cheese”, or “cream” for marketing purposes. 

This means that these phrases, typically associated with dairy products, couldn’t legally appear on the packaging of dairy alternatives. Instead, they reserved them solely for products derived from animals.

The EU stated that motives behind the ruling were to prevent confusion for consumers and to protect “the unique and natural blend of micro and macro nutrients of milk and dairy products [which] cannot be matched by any plant-based products”. 

Lauren says that she thinks the ruling has a negative impact on those looking to purchase plant-based products.

“It might cause confusion among consumers looking to make informed decisions around plant-based replacements for dairy,” she says. “Terms such as ‘oat milk’ have become ingrained in modern culture.”

More recently, new rules that the European Parliament has voted to pass (referred to as Amendment 171) may prohibit plant-based companies from using similar packaging to dairy products, such as milk cartons and yoghurt pots. It would also restrict marketing materials from claiming plant milks were an “alternative to” dairy products.

“It presents practical challenges for the industry,” Lauren explains. “It has rebranding marketing implications for both brands, like Califia Farms, and retailers.”

Another significant challenge is a broader increase in concerns over the environmental impact of plant milk production. Despite the fact that plant milks are advertised as an eco-friendly alternative to dairy, research has shown that almond milk in particular requires high volumes of water to produce.

For just a single litre, almond milk production uses more than 370 litres of water, compared to just 28 and 48 for soy and oat respectively. Coupled with the fact that 80% of almonds are grown in drought-ridden California, this has led many to question its long-term sustainability.

Camilla tells me that brands like Rude Health are working hard to work around these concerns. “We only use Mediterranean almonds because they’re grown in bee-friendly, smaller yields where rain is plentiful,” she explains.

“The yields are lower, making the price a bit higher, but we think it’s well worth the extra cost.”

What does the future hold for plant-based milks?

Plant milk sales have grown year-on-year for a while, and there are ultimately no signs that this growth will slow down any time soon.

However, it’s important to note that confidence in the market is heavily linked to the coffee industry. A significant percentage of all plant milks are used by coffee shops.

But they seem to be popular in coffee shops all the same; in March 2019, Starbucks rolled out the introduction of Elmhurst’s oat milk across their US stores. The brand even claimed recently that an increase in requests for plant milk has been the most notable shift in consumption across their branches.

Geographical differentiation is also a big point for brands to consider. “The US is ahead of the UK when it comes to plant-based milks,” Lauren explains. “Some 60% of the population buys plant milks compared to 35.6% in the UK.

“We anticipate the high growth to continue, and [expect] more households in the UK to start buying plant-based products in the next five to ten years.”

And while plant milk consumption is also linked to the increasing number of vegans around the world, even consumers who don’t identify as vegan are purchasing dairy alternatives. Studies show that 90% of plant-based milk drinkers also consume dairy in some capacity.

Lauren says: “With the rise in the number of ‘flexitarians’ (those with a diet centred on plants who occasionally eat meat), we are also seeing more hybrid dairy and plant-based drinks emerge, as consumers look to reap the benefits of both categories.

“Brands are responding to this demand with increasingly innovative, functional, and great tasting products, with even more innovation predicted,” she adds.

Camilla, however, believes that it will be interest in the variety of flavours offered by plant milks will help drive the market further.

She says: “We predict that more people will continue to join the trend over the next five to ten years.

“We’re already seeing more awareness and education about what flavours to use for different occasions, whether it’s almond milk in lattes, coconut milk in smoothies, or cashew milk in tea.”

Growth in the plant-based milk market has been meteoric over the last few years. Despite legislative challenges and concerns about the environment, it seems like this won’t slow down any time soon.

Furthermore, with the popularity of plant milk inherently linked to the ever-growing specialty coffee sector, it seems like demand within the industry will only continue.

So, next time you visit a coffee shop and order a latte or a cappuccino, why not consider asking for plant milk? Even if you love dairy, you might find you enjoy the change.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether or not we need to reduce dairy consumption in the coffee sector.

Photo credits: Rude Health, Lucy & Lentils

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As a result, the beverage no longer looks “fresh” and appealing to the customer. This often means the barista has to make another, which wastes coffee, milk, and service time. But why does this happen? And how can baristas stop it?

To learn more, I spoke to Sam Pinkerton of Clive Coffee and Professor Thom Huppertz. Read on to find out what they said.

You might also like Selecting The Best Milk For Coffee Foam & Latte Art

The science behind quality microfoam

To make the best possible microfoam, baristas start with cold milk, as the proteins within are fully intact. You should use a pitcher that is a size bigger than the beverage you are preparing (for example, a 6oz/170ml drink requires an 8oz/220ml pitcher).

This provides more room for aeration as you swirl the milk. Additionally, baristas often recommend making sure that the pitcher is between one-third and one-half full to allow for enough space when steaming.

Swirling is a crucial part of creating microfoam. It allows the barista more control when incorporating air and even heating the milk, as it breaks down the larger bubbles into smaller ones. This improves the consistency of the foam’s texture. Experts recommend reaching full aeration before 38°C/100°F, otherwise it will be more difficult to break down the larger bubbles.

During steaming, the jets of air from the wand actually act as makeshift whisks. These add more air throughout the milk, generating more bubbles.

If the tip of the steam wand is too far above the surface of the milk, its larger bursts of air will lead to larger bubbles, and an inconsistent texture. Conversely, if the tip of the wand is too far below the surface of the milk, it will just heat up the milk, rather than creating any foam or bubbles.

As the barista steams and swirls the milk, it’s important to also make sure the steam wand is in the right position to improve texture consistency.

Thom Huppertz is a professor of Dairy Science and Technology at Wageningen University in the Netherlands. “When air or steam gets introduced into the milk, the air bubbles that are formed rapidly become covered by the milk proteins,” he explains. “The surface covering of the milk provides the bubbles with the required stability.”

Per 240ml serving, cow’s milk contains 3.4g of protein and 3.9g of fat, which are both important for creating smooth and stable microfoam. Some 80% of the protein content in milk is made up of “caseins”, while the remaining 20% consists of whey proteins.

Both of these compounds are found on the surface of fat globules. One “side” of each protein is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water and attracts air. In comparison, the other side is hydrophilic, meaning that it clings to the water in the milk.

Ultimately, to create a smooth, stable, and consistent microfoam, there should be an even balance of air in the layer.

Why does disintegration happen?

However, no matter how stable or consistent your microfoam is, eventually all steamed milk will begin to disintegrate and bubble.

“All foams are inherently unstable,” Thom explains. “It’s only the timescale at which instability occurs that differs from material to material. For milk foams, several forms of instability can be observed.”

Sam Pinkerton is the Head of Education at Clive Coffee in Portland, Oregon. She says: “Once you steam milk, assuming it’s well-textured and the foam you’ve created is evenly incorporated, you’re working against time and gravity. 

“As the drink sits, the milk begins to drain from the foam, causing the lighter air bubbles to rise.”

Air is less dense than both milk and water, so it will gradually float to the surface, while the liquids in the foam will sink. 

Thom adds: “First, liquid will drain from the foam under the influence of gravity.

“However, over time, we also see that large air bubbles become larger, and small air bubbles disappear; this process, called Ostwald ripening, is difficult to prevent.”

Ostwald ripening is, very simply, the process by which bubbles in a foam increase in size. This occurs when the larger bubbles “pull” the smaller bubbles towards them by way of pressure differences. The smaller bubble then joins the larger bubble to increase its total area, effectively “consuming” it.

“These small bubbles combine into larger bubbles until the air pressure inside the bubble exceeds the strength of proteins holding it in, and the bubble pops,” Thom says. “This can happen to even the best microfoam.”

Altogether, Ostwald ripening means fewer bubbles in the foam over time. This causes the layer to eventually disintegrate, requiring the barista to steam a fresh pitcher of milk all over again.

What else affects foam disintegration?

Beyond the stability of the foam and its battle against time and gravity, there are a number of other factors which cause it to disintegrate.

“Competition with other compounds on the surface of the milk may prevent stable surface layers from being formed,” Thom says.

One such compound is fat. Milk fat globules typically range from 0.1 to 10 micrometres in size. The consistency of the liquid (in terms of milk fat globules) will depend on how the milk has been processed.

During processing, homogenised milk is forced through a small nozzle. This breaks up the fat globules and evenly disperses them throughout the liquid. In comparison, non-homogenised milk contains larger, more uneven fat globules.

“In the region of 10 to 30°C, unstable foams made from non-homogenised milk can form as the [uneven] fat globules can be damaged in some foaming processes,” Thom explains. “For homogenised milk, this is far less likely to happen.

“Milk fat, however, also plays a very important role. It provides the milk foam with the right sensory characteristics, the flavour and mouthfeel that consumers love.”

This is most evident in skimmed milk. The lack of fats allows the proteins to fully encase the bubbles, meaning vastly improved stability when the foam is created. However, this stability means that the milk is often too rigid for pouring good or precise latte art.

Thom also says it’s important to keep in mind the difference between dairy and plant milks when steaming. “For plant-based milk alternatives, different foaming properties are typically observed,” he says. “Some are very low in protein and it is therefore difficult to form good foams.”

Almond and oat milk, for instance, have considerably lower protein levels. However, the addition of fats through a barista “version” of these milks supports the creation of creamier, more desirable textures. In contrast, soy milk has a similar level of protein to dairy, meaning it can form a more stable microfoam. 

“[Plant milks] often contain natural or added surface-active compounds that compete with the proteins and interfere with foam formation,” Thom adds. “Often, larger air bubbles and quicker destabilisation are observed [more commonly] in plant-based alternatives than in cow’s milk.”

Making your foam more stable

When foam begins to disintegrate, bubbles usually form on the part of the beverage where the espresso and milk touch. Pouring latte art that takes up the majority of the surface in the cup (such as a simple, large heart design, for example) will help to reduce the amount of bubbles present, and help your foam remain more stable for longer.

Before pouring latte art, Sam recommends adding a small amount of milk to the espresso. He says you can gently swirl it for full incorporation – almost like the bloom phase when brewing filter coffee. This creates a stable base for your microfoam, and may slow down the disintegration process.

“Depending on the milk you are steaming, and the quality of foam you build, the time in which it takes for your foam to disintegrate will differ,” Sam explains. “You’ll usually see this take effect after just a few minutes.”

Research has found that, on average, bubbles begin to appear two to three minutes after the beverage has been poured. Serving all beverages before this point is best. It will mean that customers receive drinks that not only look appealing, but also have the best possible texture.

The roast profile of the coffee can also affect how quickly the microfoam disintegrates. Darker roasts contain more carbon dioxide, which is highly soluble in water; as a result, the CO2 diffuses quickly through foam and increases the rate at which bubbles converge. 

Additionally, fresher coffee just a few days past the roast date has higher levels of CO2, which means it produces even more bubbles and consequently causes the foam to disintegrate more quickly. For more stable microfoam, use coffee roasted a week or so ago. This will mean it has had an appropriate amount of time to degas.

While your microfoam will always disintegrate, there are of course ways to mitigate and delay the process. Ultimately, the best thing to do is create the smoothest microfoam in the first place, made stable with the smallest possible bubbles.

To achieve this, baristas should focus on their steaming technique and look for improvements there. However, it’s important to also consider the types of milk and coffee that you use, and keep an eye on how these affect the speed of disintegration.

Enjoyed this? You might also like A Guide To Working With Plant Milks

Photo credits: Clive Coffee, Tasmin Grant, Neil Soque

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