Over the ensuing decades, we have come to define specialty coffee even more rigorously – largely using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point quality scale.

Our definitions, however, are not just technical. More holistic terms like “sustainable”, “traceable”, “transparent”, and “direct trade” are ubiquitous with specialty coffee, yet it’s challenging to pinpoint what these terms actually mean in the wider context of the supply chain.

Additionally, it’s always important to remember how far the industry has come – as well as to question what the future holds – and ask if these terms are still as relevant and applicable today as they were several years ago.

To find out, I spoke to Tony Dreyfuss, co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee, Rohan Kuriyan, a producer at Balanoor Plantations, and Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver, founder of the Happy Coffee Network.

You may also like our article exploring the language of specialty coffee.

Technical vs holistic definitions of specialty coffee

There is a language of specialty coffee that many of us easily recognise. Terms like “third wave”, “craft”, “artisan”, and “single origin” resonate with coffee consumers around the world.

Some of these terms, however, are becoming less and less relevant. For example, “craft” and “artisan” – which we associate with a more hands-on approach – are arguably less applicable when automation is playing such a prevalent role in the industry. 

But to objectively define specialty coffee, the majority of industry professionals use the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale. Once cupped, if a coffee scores 80 points or above, it is classified as specialty grade. 

There are also varying degrees of quality between 80 and 100 points:

• Coffee which scores 80 to 84.99 is “Very good”
• Scores of 85 to 89.99 are considered “Excellent”
• Coffee scoring from 90 to 100 points are graded “Outstanding”

The number of defects is also important when objectively defining specialty coffee. Within a 350g sample of green coffee, there must be no more than five defects.

Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver is the 2019 World AeroPress Champion, a Dutch Barista Champion, and an authorised SCA trainer. She explains that although cup scores are important, they aren’t always an indicator of whether a coffee is objectively “good” or “bad”.

“I have worked at a roastery for ten years and we didn’t buy coffee based on cup scores alone,” she says. “We sometimes bought coffees that were less than 80 points, and I tasted so many amazing coffees that weren’t specialty grade. 

“Not crossing the 80-point threshold doesn’t make a coffee bad or inferior,” she adds. “It won’t be specialty, but it can still be good coffee.”

The increasing role of sustainability in defining specialty coffee

Over the past few years, sustainability, traceability, and transparency have all become increasingly important for specialty coffee consumers. In turn, these terms have helped to redefine specialty coffee in more broader ways – and are very much still relevant today.

While we can easily define these terms on their own, their relationship to specialty coffee can be less straightforward.

Tony Dreyfuss is the co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee – a roaster in Chicago, Illinois, US.

“A lot of factors go into sustainability,” he tells me. “There is economic sustainability for both producers and the overall market, as well as ecological sustainability in terms of minimising harm to the land, environment, natural resources, and people.

“For a coffee to be specialty grade, it is extremely important for it to be produced sustainably,” he adds.

Social sustainability is also key. With more consumers (especially younger generations) choosing to buy from socially responsible brands, supply chain actors and stakeholders are looking for more ways to benefit the industry as a whole. These can vary from encouraging waste reduction in coffee shops to improving access to clean water in producing communities, for example.

Rohan Kuriyan is a coffee producer at Balanoor Plantations in India, which focuses heavily on sustainability.

“For producers, specialty coffee comes full circle – including looking after our staff and workers, the environment, our entire farm ecosystem, and the coffee we harvest,” he says. “All these intricacies and factors put together help define specialty coffee, in my opinion.

“Without sustainability, it would be nearly impossible for us to survive,” he adds. “Being economically sustainable through practices like multi-cropping and implementing new farming methods are indispensable for the future.”

The push to make specialty coffee more inclusive, approachable, and accessible

As part of its marketing and branding, specialty coffee is inherently quite exclusive, and therefore comes with a higher price tag. In an effort to scale the market, however, there has been a push to make specialty coffee more accessible and approachable.

With entry barriers like price, equipment, and knowledge, it’s more than understandable that specialty coffee isn’t affordable for many people. Moreover, the sometimes judgemental mentality of the sector – such as attitudes towards dark roasts and adding milk and sugar to filter coffee – means some consumers may not feel that specialty coffee is for them.

“Coffee needs to be simplified – you don’t need to be an expert to experience and understand good coffee,” Rohan says. “Consumers can just focus on their experience without having to undergo thorough, in-depth education about coffee. We want everyone to get a taste of specialty coffee that producers work so hard to grow.”

Ultimately, making specialty coffee more inclusive would be, in a way, an attempt to change its definition. Because it’s marketed as a premium product – which is also an important part of the industry’s ethos and values, especially with paying producers fairly – specialty coffee will always remain somewhat exclusionary. 

Democratising and simplifying specialty coffee, however, is becoming increasingly relevant to ensuring the market continues to grow.

“Specialty is just a grade of coffee, it shouldn’t define who can consume it,” Tony tells me. “Having a mark or a symbol on packaging to indicate that it’s specialty coffee could be helpful, not just in educating consumers but also to enable more people to purchase and enjoy a good cup of coffee.

“That way, customers can see the mark on the bag and know that the beans they’re buying have been produced sustainably, are excellent quality, and are certified specialty grade,” he adds.

So what might the future hold?

The specialty coffee industry is ever-evolving, so ensuring the language we use to describe it stays relevant is important. In fact, even objective definitions seem to be broadening and changing to become less rigid.

In its 2021 white paper entitled Towards a Definition of Specialty Coffee: Building an Understanding Based on Attributes, the SCA explored a new framework of how to define specialty coffee:

“We can conceive the specialty-commodity relationship not as a duality but as a continuum, with coffees becoming more special as they exhibit more distinctive attributes,” the paper states. “Through this lens, it is easier to identify specialty coffee by simply assessing its attributes – both intrinsic (absence of defects, flavour attributes, bean size, etc.) and extrinsic (origin, producer, agricultural style, etc.).

“This framework makes obvious the importance of traceability and transparency since these programmes make more extrinsic attributes a part of the product,” it continues. “An untraceable coffee must be evaluated on its intrinsic attributes alone, whereas a transparently traceable coffee may have dozens of extrinsic attributes on top of the intrinsic ones, potentially making the coffee much more valuable in the marketplace.”

In April 2023, we then saw this new framework put into practice as the SCA officially launched its Coffee Value Assessment. Essentially, the new system reduces the intersubjectivity of cupping and allows industry professionals to gather much more information about a specific coffee.

Interestingly, alongside assessing its physical, affective (the cupper’s personal opinion on coffee quality based on the 100-point scale), and descriptive characteristics, cupping scores can also be based on extrinsic factors. These include “identity”, certification, and origin – so sustainability and traceability could become increasingly relevant to how we define specialty coffee.

Creating broader definitions – but not too broad

It’s evident that the industry is changing the definition of specialty coffee to become more inclusive and far reaching. But we still need to keep in mind that objective definitions are essential, too.

“The definition of specialty coffee must broaden to include sustainability, but also remain narrow enough that we’re not defining a ‘feeling’,” Tony explains. “It also needs to expand to include the terms and attributes that come with newer and more innovative processing methods.”

Wendelien, meanwhile, believes that opening up specialty coffee to more people will further help to define it.

“The power of making an impact lies with the masses,” she concludes. “The more we educate people about specialty coffee, the more they become aware of what went into producing it and what it’s worth.”

To progress and build a thriving coffee industry for the future, we need to continuously clarify and refine what we mean when we say “specialty”.

The definition must signify the efforts of everyone in the value chain, and only then will be truly relevant. But one thing is for sure: the term “specialty coffee” has evolved significantly over the past few decades – and it may have even further to go.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on if we need to redefine specialty coffee.

Photo credits: Balanoor Plantations

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Alongside the rise of specialty coffee has been a preference for lighter roast profiles. And with this shift has also been a wave of more novel and innovative taste and mouthfeel descriptors – including “crème brûlée”, “structured”, and “melted chocolate ice cream”. 

These flavour notes are certainly exciting, and are sure to spark a lot of interest from both seasoned and new specialty coffee drinkers. At the same time, however, it’s crucial that tasting notes remain accurate – or roasters could risk losing the loyalty and trust of their customers.

To learn more, I spoke to Dakota Graff, Director of Coffee and green buyer at Onyx Coffee Lab, and Manny Carrera, owner of Argyle Coffee Roasters.

You may also like our article on whether tasting notes for specialty coffee are going too far.

Tasting notes serve an important purpose

As an industry, we often assess and score coffee based on the balance of five key attributes. These are:

• Acidity
• Sweetness
• Bitterness
• Mouthfeel (or body)
• Aftertaste
  • We sometimes talk about umami (a Japanese word that is often used to describe savoury flavours in food, as well as full-bodied textures) characteristics in coffee, too

Additionally, though, we also use specific flavour notes to describe what we experience when drinking coffee. In 2017, World Coffee Research published the second edition of its Sensory Lexicon, which formally identifies 110 flavour, aroma, and texture attributes in coffee – ranging from chocolate and brown sugar to pineapple and fermented.

Tasting notes are usually selected by roasters and green buyers during cuppings, and are printed on the majority of specialty coffee packaging.

The idea behind this is to create reference points to describe coffee flavour and aroma. This is so that roasters can communicate to consumers how a particular coffee tastes.

In turn, flavour notes can serve two important purposes: reassuring the consumer that they will know what to expect and to help introduce new people to specialty coffee. In both cases, the consumer can enjoy their drinking experience even more.

The subjectivity of tasting notes

Although they are certainly useful, flavour notes are also subjective and largely based on the opinions of a small number of coffee professionals. For example, while one person may taste strawberry jam in their cup, another may taste fresh strawberries – and they could both be “right”. Ultimately, what you taste is dependent on your palate and the foods and cuisines you have been exposed to.

Moreover, the resources we use to identify tasting notes, like the Specialty Coffee Association Coffee Taster’s Flavor Wheel, are more relevant for people in consuming countries such as Europe and North America). And even with the development of localised Flavor Wheels in places like Taiwan and Indonesia, for example, criticisms still remain about the lack of inclusivity with flavour notes in specialty coffee.

Manny Carrera is the founder, owner, and head roaster at Argyle Coffee Roasters in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, US.

“We never really wanted to put flavour descriptors on our bags because we felt it would alienate some customers,” he says. “People just felt terrible when they weren’t able to pick up baker’s chocolate or pineapple acidity, so we chose not to print them on our packaging.”

Instead, Manny explains that Argyle prints “what we taste” on their bags to acknowledge the subjectivity of coffee flavour notes. He believes this language provides consumers with more room to identify their own tasting notes with less influence from roasters.

The rise of unconventional flavour notes

It’s been hard to ignore the more and more unusual and unorthodox flavours appearing on specialty coffee packaging. Tasting notes such as melted chocolate ice cream, banana pudding, crème brûlée, and orange creamsicle have been referenced by certain roasters, as well as World Coffee Championship competitors. While these descriptors can certainly be exciting and help to draw people in, they also have the potential to alienate certain consumers.

“Tasting notes should be about welcoming people further into specialty coffee,” Manny tells me. “I think it’s possible for roasters to take flavour notes too far in an attempt to stand out.”

Similar to the “what we taste” concept, Manny explains that he often refers to coffees using flavour descriptors like “traditional”, “modern”, or “exotic” to better explain sensory characteristics to less experienced consumers.

Acknowledging the importance of subjectivity

More than 800 volatile aromatic compounds have been found in coffee, which creates a somewhat endless number of possibilities when it comes to identifying flavour. Developing your palate and having more exposure to a wide range of different foods and cuisines certainly helps with this.

Dakota Graff works at pioneering roaster Onyx Coffee Lab in northwest Arkansas, US.

“We don’t taste without referring to other benchmarks or references, and so unfortunately, our coffee flavour lexicon is complex, but also limited to personal experience,” he says. “[There are always] extra opinions when it comes to flavour.”

Improving accuracy while maintaining interest

One way that Dakota believes roasters could better communicate tasting notes – while also acknowledging personal preferences – is to follow in the footsteps of other craft beverage industries such as wine and beer. 

For example, a consumer buying beer first decides on the type of beer they would like to drink, and several factors may influence their decision. They may want to buy sour beer or IPAs in the warmer months, and opt for stout and ale in the colder seasons, for instance.

It’s also likely that the consumer will already have expectations about what each type of beer will taste like, largely based on region or method of production.

In line with this, Dakota emphasises that educating consumers (especially those who are new to specialty coffee) about how origin, processing methods, and roast profiles can impact coffee flavour could help to improve accuracy of descriptors – and thereby enhance the customer experience.

Ultimately, when identifying and selecting tasting notes, a better approach for roasters could be to develop a more thorough understanding of the preferences of their consumers in conjunction with the flavours they are tasting.

Flavour notes on coffee bags are important for both roasters and consumers, and even producers. And while tasting notes certainly need to draw consumers in, roasters also have to ensure descriptors are accurate and balanced.

If not, roasters risk losing consumer trust and loyalty – something which many cannot afford to do.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how producers and roasters can develop specific flavour profiles for coffee.

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Every coffee competition, however, needs a group of highly skilled and experienced judges to assess performance, and ultimately determine the rankings and overall winner. Judges not only need to stay sharp, but they also have to be transparent, honest, and thorough when providing their scores and feedback. In short, we often don’t realise just how challenging it can be to judge competitions.

So is there a way to minimise this pressure and ensure a fairer process for both competitors and judges? I spoke to Trent Rollings, a certified World Coffee Championships sensory judge, and Sonja Björk Grant, a pioneering figure in creating the World Barista Championship’s judging format and procedures, to find out more.

You may also like our article on the new rules for the 2024 World Barista Championship.

How are coffee competitions judged?

There are many coffee competitions that take place every year, but the World Coffee Championships (WCC) are some of the most prominent and exciting. These include:

• World Barista Championship
• World Brewers Cup
• World Coffee Roasting Championship
• World Cup Tasters Championship
• World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship
• World Latte Art Championship
• World Cezve/Ibrik Championship

Every WCC event (largely excluding the World Cup Tasters Championship) relies on a panel of judges to score all competitors’ performances. Scores are assessed and based on different sets of rules and parameters which are unique to each competition. This means judges must have a thorough understanding of the specific rules, and need to be attentive to every aspect of a competitor’s routine and presentation. 

Moreover, there are different types of WCC judges. For instance, technical judges assess participants’ skills and workflow – including hygiene and food safety. Sensory judges, meanwhile, focus on coffee and beverage quality, as well as how accurate flavour and mouthfeel descriptors are.

In addition to passing a certification course and attending recalibration sessions, WCC judges need to keep up with any new rules and regulations – as well as any changes and developments in the wider specialty coffee sector.

In addition to being a WCC judge, Trent Rollings is a SCA trainer and competition consultant.

“Every year, there are some rule changes,” he tells me. “Last year at the World Barista Championship, the rules were changed to allow plant milks. 

“There are also the usual updates in how scoring is done and with the prompts on the sheet,” he adds. “Judges must be updated about all of these changes.”

Exploring the challenges of judging competitions

There are countless articles focusing on WCC competitors which highlight their dedicated journey in taking part, or ultimately winning. But the process isn’t exactly straightforward and easy for the judges either.

From sensory fatigue and mental exhaustion to keeping up with rule changes, being a coffee competition judge requires a lot of time and investment.

Palate fatigue

Taste bud exhaustion or palate fatigue can be one of the biggest challenges for competition judges. At events like the World Barista, Brewers Cup, Coffee in Good Spirits, and Coffee Roasting Championships, judges are required to taste every beverage prepared by all competitors.

Sonja Björk Grant is a co-founder of Kaffibrugghúsið in Reykjavik, Iceland, and has been a WCC judge for 22 years.

“At the World Coffee Championships, there are judging slots throughout the day which are usually between two and five routines,” she says. “[If they are certified to do so], judges will sometimes switch between sensory, technical, and head judging. 

“Every judge should know the limits of their palate and their tolerance,” she adds. “For example, you can’t judge too many WCIGS routines because you would drink too much alcohol. You can also eat bread and biscuits and drink water in the calibration room to clean your palate.”

Mental fatigue

In addition to sensory fatigue, listening to and judging so many competitors can be mentally exhausting. Judges need to be just as focused and stay just as sharp for the last competitor of the day as they were for the first person.

“When they are performing, the competitors are providing you with a lot of information – it can be overwhelming for the judges sometimes,” Trent explains. “So you have to prioritise intaking the information. I avoid writing too many notes and try to focus on understanding the competitor – how they’re explaining what they are doing, which ingredients they’re using, and what they have pre-prepared for their routine.

“It’s important, however, that competitors feel that the judges are engaged with them and are paying attention to what they are saying and doing,” he adds.

Sonja emphasises how concentration is absolutely essential for judges.

“When I walk on the stage, greet the competitor, and a new routine starts, there is nothing else on my mind. I have a scoresheet before me, and I am looking for answers to the questions on the sheet,” she tells me. “Once the routine is done, I leave the stage, finish writing my comments in the calibration room, turn in my sheet, and then I forget the routine that just finished so I am ready for the next competitor. 

“I want to be very focused on staying in the moment of the routine so I don’t miss anything the barista is saying that is relevant to the drinks they are serving,” she adds. “This comes with practice and experience.”

Staying calibrated and minimising variance

As part of the WCC recertification process, judges must attend calibration sessions before the competitions take place. This is critical to ensuring all judges’ palates are as calibrated and aligned as possible to make sure the judging process is fair and consistent.

And this is especially important considering that judges often come from different countries and cultural backgrounds. In turn, they will have varying levels of exposure to different foods and cuisines, which will ultimately influence their palates.

Judges also need to ensure they are well-rested for each day of the competitions, and should avoid eating certain foods which could inhibit their ability to taste flavour notes in coffee.

“You shouldn’t eat spicy and strong-tasting or smelling foods – or anything that can taint your palate – just before and during the championships,” Trent explains.

Communication challenges

Just like the judges, WCC competitors come from all over the world. Naturally, this can present language barriers – especially considering that the championships must take place in English or with an interpreter. 

On top of that, communicating with the other judges – especially during deliberation – requires excellent verbal skills. 

“You need to know when to assert yourself and your reasoning for the score you gave, and when to say that you might not have been fully calibrated,” Trent says. “Judging is a team sport and it requires everyone to be in sync.”

As part of debrief sessions, the judges speak to every competitor to discuss their routine. While most debriefs are amicable and run smoothly, disagreements between competitors and judges are certainly possible. If this happens, it’s important to remain respectful at all times.

How can competitor organisers improve the judging experience?

First and foremost, Trent points out that consistency in the format and structure of the competitions is an important step.

“Improving consistency between the regional, national, and world levels of the championships would make a big difference,” he says. “It would help the judges, as well as the competitors, to be better prepared.”

Given how competitors receive feedback on their routines, it could be beneficial to implement a similar system for judges. For instance, head judges or WCC representatives could potentially provide individual guidance on how to improve judging techniques or how to remain calibrated.

Acknowledging the positives

Sonja emphasises that the judging experience can be highly rewarding, of course.

“I have loved my journey of being a WCC judge for 22 years,” Sonja says. “It was definitely not all a walk in the park, but what I enjoyed the most was being able to understand different coffee cultures from around the world and the people working in them.”

While it can be a difficult process, becoming a WCC judge is considered a prestigious and honourable position – and Trent recognises this.

“It’s not about competitors vs judges – we’re not looking to take away points and punish the competitors,” he says. “For the most part, we are very supportive. We want the competitor to feel like we are engaged with them.”

Taking part in the World Coffee Championships is an opportunity for coffee professionals to learn and grow. And while we mostly associate this opportunity with the competitors, it also rings true for the judges.

Ultimately, by encouraging open communication and providing better support to the judges, organisers can improve the competition experience for everyone.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how coffee competitions have changed in recent years.

Photo credits: Trent Rollings, Specialty Coffee Association, World Coffee Events

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A wide variety of coffee businesses exhibit and take part in trade shows – ranging from more established brands to smaller players in the market. But no matter the size of the business, these events offer exciting opportunities to connect with potential investors, partners, and customers.

For smaller business owners, however, there are some challenges to overcome. Attendance costs can be high, logistics and travel arrangements can prove to be a headache, and ultimately, in an industry dominated by multinationals and other large companies, smaller brands may struggle to get their money’s worth at these trade shows.

To learn more, I spoke to Josh Tarlo, founder of Headstand, and David Donde, founder of Truth Coffee Roasting – read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article on why trade shows are opportunities for coffee education.

Weighing up the costs

Coffee is very much a social beverage – friends gather in cafés, business is conducted over a few espressos, and independent coffee shops are often at the heart of local communities. 

It then makes sense that the coffee industry collectively loves an opportunity to network and connect with other professionals at trade shows. The type of events in the global coffee sector vary widely – from more informal and consumer-focused festivals to B2B expos. 

While networking and business opportunities are obviously the two main purposes of coffee trade shows, some include pioneering and innovative competitions like the World Coffee Championships and Coffee Masters.

First and foremost, before taking part in any event, companies need to register as exhibitors and book booths. The costs of doing so can range significantly, depending on the size and location of the event, as well as demand for exhibitor spots. Rough estimates include £500 (US $634) at smaller regional events to upwards of £50,000 (US $63,463) for the biggest booths at the largest and most popular shows. 

For larger businesses with more substantial marketing budgets, booking trade show booths is a relatively simple process. Smaller companies, however, must divide spending much more carefully. Return on investment for these brands is essential as a stand at a three-day coffee festival might represent a big chunk of their marketing expenditure.

Accounting for all expenses

Josh Tarlo is the founder of Headstand – a coffee leaf seltzer company which also sells loose coffee leaf and herbal mixes. He also has several years of experience working as green buyer and in roasteries, as well as taking part in UK Coffee Championships.

“[Return on investment] is very dependent on the trade show in question as there seems to be different pricing everywhere,” he says. “I think some of the smaller regional trade shows are interesting because you can theoretically cover your costs in retail sales.

“Recently, I was speaking with people who exhibited at Glasgow Coffee Festival, and they were saying that it’s one of the few events where they actually make money,” he adds.

The costs of attending a trade show can quickly stack up. Booking and building an exhibition stand is already expensive, and most coffee events encourage exhibitors to offer free samples to visitors.

David Donde is founder of Truth Coffee Roasting in Cape Town, South Africa – and is also a seasoned competition judge.

He puts it quite bluntly, saying: “If you’re holding on to the idea that you are going to break even at a trade show, you may as well shoot yourself in the foot, it’s going to be less painful.”

The importance of attending trade shows

It’s unrealistic to expect most small coffee businesses to cover their costs at all events they attend. But that doesn’t mean exhibiting is always a fruitless endeavour.

Trade shows essentially provide a captive audience in a concentrated space, which offers a rare kind of access to many different industry professionals, potential buyers, and consumers. So capitalising on this exposure can be a worthy investment of both time and money.

“The only thing I’m looking to get out of a trade show is exposure,” David says. “Trade shows have given me exposure to international media, the public, and trade partners.

“Trade shows are one of the few ways a coffee business can engage with the public one-on-one,” he adds. “Seldom can you have that dialogue with customers – we can’t always do that in a supermarket or a café. The trade show is the perfect place for everyone to listen to each other.”

Beyond consumers and the general public, however, expos are obviously some of the most effective ways to find new business partners. 

“From a trade perspective, it’s an opportunity to meet buyers and the bigger groups who might be unaware of your business, or typically assume your business is too small to work with,” David says – something which is rarely replicated elsewhere in the industry.

Trying to stand out from the crowd

Trade shows can certainly help ease more of the cold-calling approach to sales and business development, and provide a more neutral ground for buyers and sellers to connect.

Josh, however, emphasises that it’s not always a level playing field.

“From a brand-building perspective, unless you have some kind of new product development that you’re trying to showcase, it’s never really financially viable to attend unless you’re a key player in the market,” he tells me. “There’s so much going on at the larger events especially. There is so much noise, so it’s a hard environment to make an impact in.

“Meeting buyers can be so random,” he adds. “Some trade shows in other industries organise pitches and meetings with buyers in a more structured way. Coffee events are sometimes just a roll of the dice – we just put up a stand and hope the buyers walk by.”

Knowing where and how to invest in resources

So how can small businesses make sure they grab attention at trade shows, especially more established and bigger events?

“The primary resource to consider is time,” David explains. “If I’m attending a trade show, I have to consider whether I can invest in it fully.

“If you don’t go there with a stack of information, with novel products, or be prepared to have interesting and new conversations, then all is lost,” he adds.

Meanwhile, Josh explains that focusing on market relevance and proximity is key.

“Bristol Coffee Festival is interesting to our brand because we have a lot of wholesale accounts in the area,” he tells me. “Our customers are physically close to the venue, so it’s a brand-building exercise that serves them.”

And ultimately, attracting a higher number of booth visitors is not always the most important end goal.

“I want to go to trade shows that are closest to my market, not necessarily the biggest ones,” David says. “Exhibiting at a trade show with 40,000 people walking past you who potentially don’t care about your products is worth a lot less than going to one with three people who do, and who you wouldn’t be able to reach otherwise.”

Advice for trade show newcomers

David and Josh are both clear on one thing: with the exception of a few events, it’s incredibly difficult for small businesses to recoup their investments they make when taking part in coffee trade shows. Exhibition costs are high, sampling is a necessity, and sales aren’t always significant.

However, trade shows do offer captive audiences. People attend because they either work in the coffee sector or have a specific interest in coffee – and an engaging booth can draw attention, regardless of the scale of the event.

Moreover, presence at a trade show alongside some of the biggest names in the industry creates a useful platform for small businesses looking to grow.

Alternatives to exhibiting at events

Given that not all brands – particularly smaller companies – can regularly attend expos, what are some other ways to reach your target market and potential buyers?

As one example of many, social media has transformed marketing techniques, and allows brands to reach more consumers than ever before.

“We spend £100 or £200 through social media channels and create vastly more consumer impressions than I would at a trade show,” Josh says. “I could tie in sampling on top of that, and do a guerilla giveaway somewhere I perceive as relevant or with high foot traffic.

“I can get a lot more from my investment with this approach, in terms of numbers or impressions,” he concludes.

With so many expos and festivals taking place every year, it’s important for coffee businesses to have a presence in an ever-changing market. But at the same time, companies need to understand what works best for them.

And this is especially true for smaller brands with smaller marketing budgets. Ultimately, balancing the costs of attending with the potential sales possibilities is key.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on ten tips for trade show exhibitors.

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To avoid these health issues, many people opt for decaf coffee. But in recent years, naturally low-caf varieties like Laurina have also become a popular choice, allowing consumers to enjoy specialty coffee without compromising on quality.

There is, however, a seemingly new decaf alternative on the market: Paraxanthine (or Px) coffee. So what exactly is it and could it have an impact on the coffee industry?

To find out, I spoke with Jeffrey Dietrich, CEO of Rarebird Coffee, and Chahan Yeretzian, Professor of Chemistry and the Head of the Coffee Excellence Center at the Zurich University of Applied Sciences.

You may also like our article on why drinking too much coffee can cause caffeine “jitters”.

What is Px?

In the simplest terms, Px is the main product of the metabolism of caffeine. 

Coffee plants synthesise caffeine from the organic molecule xanthosine. When we consume caffeine, the human body metabolises it primarily using the enzyme cytochrome P450, which breaks down about 80% of the caffeine content into Px, with the remaining 20% broken down into theobromine and theophylline.

Because coffee plants don’t synthesise Px when producing caffeine, outside of the human body, scientists have to create Px in a lab. This is done by breaking down caffeine through an enzymatic process similar to the one in your liver. 

Caffeine and Px essentially work the same way in the body. A 1995 clinical trial showed that both caffeine and Px inhibit adenosine receptors – resulting in mental stimulation, the release of adrenaline and dopamine, and kickstarting the sympathetic nervous system (the fight or flight response). Px has also been found to produce similar cardiovascular, hormonal, and metabolic effects to caffeine. 

Px as a food and beverage ingredient, however, is not a new concept, with many commercially-available energy drinks and workout supplements containing this ingredient. But Px coffee is quite unique.

As of now, Rarebird is the first and only company to sell Px coffee – and even won the Best New Product Open Class category award at the 2023 Specialty Coffee Expo in Portland, Oregon.

Jeffrey explains that Px coffee is essentially identical to “traditional coffee” – it can be brewed the same way, and also smells and tastes the same. He says Rarebird starts by roasting high-quality decaffeinated beans before infusing them with Px provided by its supplier.

Does Px impact coffee flavour and mouthfeel? 

Chahan explains that Px has very little effect on coffee sensory profiles.

“Given the quantities [of Px] used, the impact on flavour is negligible,” he says. He adds that isolated caffeine only has a slight taste, and that Px has even less.  

Jeffrey agrees, saying: “I can confidently say Px is very comparable to caffeine in terms of taste. You’re not going to see any difference in terms of mouthfeel and the organoleptic properties of coffee.”

He adds that Rarebird has been working with Major Cohen, a retired Senior Project Manager at Starbucks, and Paul Songer, a head judge at Cup of Excellence, to source high-quality decaf options. The company currently only offers medium roast Colombian coffee, but will start selling different origins and roast profiles in the coming months.

What are the benefits of drinking Px coffee?

Although Px coffee is a relatively new concept, there are over a decade of in vitro and clinical trials that demonstrate the various health benefits of Px. These include:

• A 2012 study on rats which showed that Px is a stronger stimulant than caffeine
• A 2015 study on rats which showed that caffeine and Px increased brain dopamine levels, and that Px did so more effectively
• Another 2015 study on rats which suggested that Px enhances athletic performance to a greater extent than caffeine – and more consistently between individuals who are both slow and fast caffeine metabolisers
• A 2021 clinical trial of enfinity Px showed that daily consumption of Px improved measures of cognition, memory, reasoning, response time, and attention
• In 2023, Rarebird funded a study of Px which suggests it is a safer alternative to caffeine for achieving similar stimulant effects

Moreover, research also indicates that genetics play a huge role in how the body metabolises caffeine, and therefore the extent of its effects. Individuals who produce less of the enzyme cytochrome P450 metabolise caffeine more slowly. This means they are more likely to feel its negative effects when consuming higher quantities. 

“I wouldn’t go further than saying Px’s difference from caffeine in this regard is a hypothesis developed from Px coffee drinker feedback and anecdotes,” he adds. “We’re excited to see what future clinical studies show, but I’d want to see those results before claiming these benefits.”

He notes that Px won’t have as much of an effect on people who are tolerant of caffeine.

“But for a lot of people – probably the majority of whom do experience that jittery, over-caffeinated feeling – you’ll feel a difference with Px coffee.”

Does Px have negative health effects?

Many clinical studies have indicated that Px consumption has little to no negative side effects, but it’s important to note that Px-infused coffee and other products are not made naturally.

“Most people don’t know anything about Px, but it’s not because we don’t feel it or aren’t exposed to it – we actually know it way better than we think we do,” Jeffrey says. “We’re not making something new, strange, or scary that your body hasn’t already experienced.”

He adds that while much more research needs to be carried out on Px coffee specifically, he believes there are more benefits to discover.

Chahan also points out that people who metabolise caffeine more quickly will probably have to drink more Px coffee to feel similar effects.

“I would assume that for the same level of effect in terms of physical and mental improvement, you will probably need to intake a higher dose compared to caffeinated coffee,” he says.

Similarly, for fast caffeine metabolisers, Px coffee doesn’t offer the same adrenaline rush that caffeine can – which can be both a pro and a con.

“The big difference I see between caffeine and Px is that caffeine triggers the body’s fight and flight response,” Jeffrey explains. “Px doesn’t trigger that.”

Could consumption of Px coffee grow in the coming years?

Given the recent boom in popularity of the functional coffee market, there is certainly potential for Px coffee to become more available – although decaf is likely to always remain the most popular caffeine-free option.

Jeffrey says Rarebird launched a subscription service in August 2023 which has received favourable feedback from consumers, including improved sleep quality and the ability to drink coffee later in the day.

“Around 92% of our customers are telling us they feel better when drinking Px coffee compared to caffeinated beans,” he adds.

Chahan also believes the wider market of fortifying coffee with functional ingredients will grow in the coming years as consumers become more focused on quality and health.

Alongside decaf, half-caf and low-caf options are steadily becoming more popular among consumers who want to be more mindful of their caffeine intake.

And as we learn more about Px coffee, it could certainly have an impact on the industry – and more roasters and companies could start selling their own products. For now, let’s wait and see.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on whether low-caf varieties could replace decaf.

Photo credits: Rarebird Coffee

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There are, however, an increasing number of mobile coffee businesses in the industry – including coffee trucks. These businesses allow operators to move around and cater to a wider range of customers and events. Additionally, coffee trucks can allow business owners to enter the market more affordably, with less upfront investment required.

So how does one start a coffee truck business? And can they ever be fully profitable? 

To learn more, I spoke to Howard Gill, Head of Sales at Grind, and Anthony Duckworth, owner of Dear Coco Street Coffee. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on the growth of drive-thru coffee.

What are coffee trucks?

The wider food and beverage industry is no stranger to mobile businesses. In the US and across Europe, modern food and catering trucks have been popular since the early 2010s – especially following the 2008 economic recession. 

But in fact, what we often refer to as “street food” – where vendors sell food and beverages on a street or other public places – has long been popular in many parts of the world such as Asia, Africa, Latin America, and the Caribbean. 

Coffee trucks, however, are a relatively new business model in comparison. Although they are very similar to food trucks, they are usually much smaller as they only have to accommodate an espresso machine, a grinder, and other small pieces of equipment, rather than a small commercial kitchen.

As with any mobile food and beverage business, coffee trucks are available in a variety of sizes – ranging from trailers to vans to kiosks, or even bikes. Operators and owners can choose to customise their own setups, or buy pre-outfitted mobile coffee businesses.

To run as efficiently as possible, most coffee trucks include built-in boiler and waste storage systems, and typically electrical outlets for plug-in appliances.

Over the years, many major coffee chains and brands have launched their own coffee trucks, including Intelligentsia, Starbucks, Costa Coffee, and Dunkin’. While some of these trucks are in continuous operation, many were introduced as part of a specific marketing campaign, or only operate during specific times of the year.

Moreover, despite having the capabilities to do so, it’s also important to note that not all coffee trucks move from place to place to do business. For some operators, it may make more sense to remain in one set location in order to build a more loyal consumer base.

Why invest in a coffee truck?

By far the most obvious reason to start a mobile coffee business is the much lower level of upfront investment required than opening a brick and mortar café. 

Howard is the Head of Coffee at UK roaster Grind. Founded in 2011, the company operates eleven coffee shops and three coffee trucks in London. According to Howard, Grind initially launched its trucks to cater to mobile events like the Soho House Festival, but soon decided to establish more permanent locations following popular demand.

“It’s literally like a tiny cafe,” he says. “It’s just easier to move around if you need to. But there’s still the same focus on customer service, beverage quality, and speed.

“Initial set-up costs are also lower and you don’t waste time paying rent while you’re decorating,” he adds. “I’ve honestly been surprised about our longevity. It was exciting to see our truck go into Spitalfields Market, as well as how accommodating and supportive customers have been.”

Establishing a sense of community

As coffee trucks are mobile businesses, building a loyal consumer base is essential to running a successful operation.

Anthony co-owns Dear Coco Street Coffee – a London-based coffee truck – with his wife, and the business is named after their youngest daughter. While Anthony tells me he always wanted to run a street coffee business, he says the pandemic encouraged him to start earlier than planned.

“One of the biggest advantages is the intimacy – it’s a barista and a customer side-by-side on the street,” he says. “There’s no barrier between us, we’re in it together – rain, hail, or shine.

“Delivering a specialty coffee experience on the street creates unexpected moments of delight,” he adds.

Unlike brick and mortar coffee shops, weather has a much bigger impact on the coffee truck experience.

“When it’s sunny, the truck is slammed,” Anthony says. “If it’s dark, only locals will brave the conditions to support us. If customers aren’t sure we’ll be there, they won’t take the gamble and will visit their local coffee shop instead.”

Mobile coffee business operators often use social media to communicate information most effectively with customers. These can include opening hours and new menu items, which only further helps to establish a presence in local communities.

“After two years of running the business, we’ve become a fixture of the community even though we drive away at the end of each day,” Anthony says. “We’ve become a meeting spot – I had no idea what a big part of the community we would become.”

Getting started with a coffee truck

Although they are usually much lower than opening a coffee shop, the costs of starting a coffee truck can vary. Important factors include:

• Whether you are buying or renting a vehicle
• The size of your setup
• How much you want to customise your mobile coffee business
• How much equipment you need to buy
• Whether you’re an independent or franchise business

For those looking to start a coffee truck franchise, initial investment is typically significantly lower – and it’s likely you would be provided with all the equipment, training, and support you would need. In turn, this option is much better suited to people who have less coffee experience.

Anthony, meanwhile, tells me that he initially invested £40,000 (around US $49,900) in his coffee truck business – and that the process was fairly quick in his experience.

“It took about five months from the initial idea through to the launch,” he explains. Throughout the whole process, Anthony says he purchased an Italian Piaggio Apè truck, outfitted it with a La Marzocco Linea Mini espresso machine, secured planning permission and a street trading licence from his local council, and sourced coffee suppliers.

Accounting for ongoing operational costs

While both coffee trucks and brick and mortar cafés of course need to remain profitable in order to be successful, there are some key differences between the two.

“Our net profit is 40% versus a typical net profit of 5% to 10% for a coffee shop,” Anthony tells me. “To deliver the best coffee experience and attract the best baristas, our payroll sits at around 18%. 

“We pay head barista wages to all team members to acknowledge that they work alone (or with an assistant on weekends) in sometimes challenging conditions,” he adds.

Howard explains that Grind’s operational costs for its coffee trucks are similar, but that successfully developing and running these businesses requires a certain level of expertise.

“The spaces we operate in have been accommodating in terms of licensing,” he tells me. “Powering a coffee truck, however, requires some technical knowledge as espresso machines rely on a lot of electricity and have to be set up properly.”

Important considerations for mobile coffee businesses

Although launching a coffee truck may seem much more straightforward than opening a coffee shop, the process is not without its challenges. For instance, most mobile coffee businesses can only offer takeaway beverages, which certainly poses some limitations for operators.

Additionally, baristas also need to adapt to a different environment. Taring scales, for example, could prove tricky if your vehicle isn’t stable and doesn’t have level surfaces.

But above all else, weather is especially important. 

“Coffee is temperamental, so every change in temperature or humidity affects the grind setting, so we usually have to dial in multiple times per day,” Anthony says. 

Given the limited and much smaller space, coffee truck owners should be more mindful of the beverages and products they can offer.

“We also have to be selective in how we meet customers’ needs,” Anthony tells me. “We can’t be everything to everyone or offer the usual indoor comforts of coffee shops. There’s convenience and experience – and we hope to deliver the latter. It’s important to be selective and intentional about the experience we want to offer.”

Taking your time along the way

Starting a coffee truck will naturally take less time than opening a physical coffee shop. Anthony, however, cautions against rushing the process or skipping any key steps – including creating a business plan, checking plans with local councils, assessing the level of competition, and projecting sales data.

“We all want to deliver a remarkable, memorable, and distinctive specialty coffee experience underpinned by exceptional customer experience in a consistent and sustainable way,” he adds. “While coffee trucks throw up unique challenges, it’s important to focus on the main factors.”

Coffee trucks will never be as popular as coffee shops, but there is a clear place for them in the market – and they serve an important purpose, too.

With the right level of planning and preparation, operators can successfully launch and run their own mobile coffee business.

“Make sure your coffee is good and then focus on everything else,” Howard concludes. “Get your customer service and brand identity on point as well, and the rest will take care of itself.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how to start a specialty coffee business with little funding.

Photo credits: Anthony Duckworth, Dear Coco Street Coffee

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North America and Western Europe have long been the largest markets for specialty coffee. At the same time, however, consumers in less established markets – like Eastern Europe and South and Southeast Asia – are becoming increasingly interested in specialty coffee.

While many people in these countries still favour commodity-grade and instant coffee products, consumer preferences are shifting. With more and more chains and smaller independent coffee businesses expanding into these markets, specialty coffee is becoming more popular.

To learn more, I spoke to Laurynas Arlauskas, Events Coordinator at the Lithuanian SCA Chapter, Matija Hrkać, CEO and Operations Director at Cogito Coffee in Croatia, and Binny Varghese, a Q processing professional and consultant in India.

You may also like our article on how coffee businesses can expand into new markets.

What’s driving the growth of specialty coffee?

Specialty coffee consumption is increasing around the world for a number of reasons. One of the biggest is the expansion of multinational coffee chains – notably Starbucks – into different markets. As these chains enter or expand into new markets, consumers are introduced to different coffees, brewing methods, and types of beverages.

Similarly, passionate coffee professionals and enthusiasts often move abroad for some time and then return home, and bring their specialty coffee knowledge back with them. This then helps to drive the proliferation of smaller independent coffee shops in previously untapped markets, and increases consumer interest in specialty coffee.

The growth of specialty coffee in these regions is also the result of the habits of younger generations who have increasingly higher amounts of disposable income. For instance, Forbes estimates that Gen Z alone currently has around US $360 billion in disposable income – a large majority of which these consumers enjoy spending on higher-quality food and beverage products like specialty coffee. 

Health and sustainability are also increasingly important considerations for many coffee consumers. Plant milks, for example, are often perceived as a healthier and more eco-conscious option instead of cow’s milk. Additionally, specialty coffee brands have started to develop convenient ready-to-drink (RTD) products with added health supplements.

The rise of at-home brewing – largely the result of Covid-19 – has also shaped specialty coffee consumption as well. With many coffee shops closed during the pandemic, coffee drinkers wanted to replicate café-quality drinks at home.

Eastern Europe: A blossoming specialty coffee market

In comparison to Western Europe, the specialty coffee market is much smaller in Eastern Europe. That doesn’t mean, however, that growth isn’t taking place – especially in countries like the Czech Republic, Hungary, Croatia, Poland, Romania, and the Baltics.

In Poland, for instance, the number of specialty coffee shops has increased significantly in recent years. Likewise, in Romania, the number of specialty coffee shops grew from just three in 2013 to more than 90 in 2019. Hungary’s specialty coffee scene has also exploded in recent years, with around 150 cafés open in the country as of 2019.

As specialty coffee becomes more popular in Eastern Europe, Specialty Coffee Association chapters have started to open in countries like Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Hungary, Lithuania, Poland, Slovakia, and Romania.

As well as volunteering for the Lithuanian SCA Chapter, Laurynas has worked in the coffee industry since 2016. He explains that the chapter started ten years ago, and initially aimed to change people’s perceptions about the barista role as a career choice.

“Specialty coffee ambassadors in the Baltics are doing a great job,” he says. “They have influenced both older and younger generations by changing the habits that a ‘typical’ coffee drinker would have. 

“Coffee shops in these countries have managed to create spaces that attract not only specialty coffee enthusiasts, but also people in general who enjoy higher-quality products,” he adds.

Industry events are playing a key role in growing the market

Every year, it seems there are more and more coffee events taking place across the globe. And while some markets may be saturated with industry events, the growing number of coffee festivals in Eastern European countries are indicative of the region’s increasing interest in specialty coffee. Some examples include:

• Prague Coffee Festival
• Warsaw Coffee Festival
• Bucharest Coffee Festival
• Vilnius Coffee Festival
• Zagreb Coffee Break

The Zagreb Coffee Break festival launched in 2018 as a way to connect the local coffee community with international roasters, baristas, and enthusiasts. 

Matija is the CEO and Operations Director of Cogito Coffee, a specialty coffee roastery and shop in Zagreb. Established in 2014, Cogito now has seven locations across Croatia, as well as one in Dubai and one in Philadelphia, US.

Matija admits that while the specialty coffee market in Croatia is still relatively small, things are changing rapidly.

“Croatia is a very popular tourist destination, and people that visit are looking for specialty coffee shops,” he explains. “This is a great opportunity for us to showcase coffee quality and new ways of thinking not just to tourists, but also to locals.”

He adds that younger Croatians are helping to encourage this.

“We see that younger people in particular are travelling more, so they are exposed to different cultures and ideas,” he tells me. “This is great for specialty coffee shops because it gives us a chance to build a loyal and educated customer base, and spread knowledge about quality coffee more than ever before.”

The Southeast Asian market

Looking even further east, specialty coffee is making waves in Southeast Asia. Industry analysts anticipate strong market growth in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), which includes the following countries:

• Indonesia
• Malaysia
• Philippines
• Singapore
• Thailand
• Vietnam

According to Euromonitor International, between 2014 and 2019, sales of specialty coffee in Southeast Asia grew at a compound annual rate of 6% – compared to a global average of 5%.

This growth can be attributed to a number of factors, including the rising popularity of specialty coffee among younger consumers and the increasing availability of premium coffee products. 

Thailand, for example, is now home to a large number of young, qualified coffee professionals. Its consumers also spend more than US $1 billion on coffee annually, with US $33 million of this total spent in the “premium coffee” market.

The popularity of cold coffee drinks has also skyrocketed, with high-quality RTD options available on many coffee shop menus.

Considering that Thailand and its neighbouring countries are traditionally tea-consuming, it’s clear that specialty coffee is having a huge impact.

Looking at South Asia: From production to consumption

As for South Asia, while the specialty coffee market is still in its relatively early stages of development, there is plenty of potential for growth. In India, for example, the number of coffee drinkers has increased rapidly over the past two decades.

This is the result of factors such as rising disposable incomes, changing consumption habits and preferences, and increasing exposure to global coffee culture.

Binny is a coffee professional and consultant in India. He is also the creator of C for Coffee, an upcoming documentary about specialty coffee culture in India.

“There is an increasing trend of specialty coffee shops and chains opening across the country,” he says. “Indian coffee producers are also pushing the boundaries with coffees, particularly when it comes to processing.”

Further afield, while specialty coffee markets in other South Asian countries like Pakistan and Sri Lanka are less developed, Nepal has grown significantly in recent years.

“Nepal is definitely making some noise,” Binny explains. “There are more barista training schools in Nepal than in India, while the tourist influx – especially in Kathmandu – has also helped shape its specialty coffee culture. 

“Plus, there are many events hosted by the local SCA community throughout the year, which helps to push innovation and growth,” he adds.

Improving coffee production

With countries like India, Nepal, and Sri Lanka also producing coffee, there is ample opportunity to improve quality across the entire supply chain.

As producers receive more support to improve farming practices, we can expect to see even more growth in the coming years. However, there are also significant challenges which farmers must face in these regions, including lack of infrastructure and skilled labour. 

“When it comes to countries like Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka, coffee is not main agenda because it’s not the biggest cash crop,” Binny explains. “Skilled knowledge is limited and climate change creates even more problems, like floods in Pakistan.”

It’s evident that specialty coffee is no longer confined to the most developed markets. The ASEAN market is already growing rapidly, while the future of the Eastern European and South Asian markets also look equally as promising.

With more and more consumers exposed to specialty coffee around the world, we can expect to see continuous growth – but the rate will largely be dependent on each individual country.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on Dubai’s blossoming specialty coffee scene.

Image credits: Blue Tokai Coffee, Quick Brown Fox Coffee Roasters

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But among an increasingly diverse range of high-level coffee competitions, the World AeroPress Championship stands out as one of the most inclusive and accessible. From its humble beginnings in 2008 with just three competitors to some 120 regional and national events now taking place in over 60 countries, the WAC has changed exponentially over the past 15 years.

A big part of the evolution of coffee competitions is keeping them fresh and current. In October 2023, WAC organisers announced a new multi-round, points-based format for this year’s national Australian championship, which is sure to change the future of the event.

The 2023 World AeroPress Championship will take place on 1 December in Melbourne, Australia. In anticipation of this year’s world final – and how it might change in the coming years – I spoke to 2019 World AeroPress Champion, Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver, and Tim Williams, CEO of the WAC, to learn more.

You may also like our article on how coffee competitions are changing.

How did the World AeroPress Championship start?

The format of AeroPress Championships is relatively simple. Each round, three competitors have five minutes to prepare, extract, and serve three identical coffees using either an AeroPress Clear or original brewer. The panel of three judges then blindly cups all coffees, before pointing to their favourite on the count of three. 

It’s exactly this more informal, less rule-focused approach that has made the World AeroPress Championship so popular. Regional and national competitions attract thousands of participants and visitors every year, but how did it all begin?

Let’s go back to 2008. The AeroPress had been available for three years, and the 2004 World Barista Champion Tim Wendleboe had just started to distribute the brewer in Norway. 

As well as being the CEO of the WAC, Tim Williams is also the founder of Fieldwork Coffee – a micro roaster in Australia. He explains, rather wryly, that the AeroPress came with instructions but “if you followed them, the coffee kind of sucked”.

He adds that the initial idea for the competition was born from the fact that no one really knew how to use the brewer to make high-quality coffee. So industry legend Tim Wendelboe and Tim Varney (his coffee shop manager at the time) organised the first-ever national AeroPress Championship, with the premise that “whoever brews the best cup of coffee wins”.

This first competition was a small affair – with Tim Wendelboe, Tim Varney, and local coffee enthusiast Anders Valde taking part.

“There were three competitors and maybe ten people watching,” Tim Williams says.” It was just a bit of fun one afternoon.”

The WAC begins to grow

Following the first AeroPress Championship, a second competition was held in Norway in 2009. A year later, other Nordic countries had started to host their own versions of the event. 

“They would happen at trade shows, with maybe 40 or 50 people watching,” Tim tells me. “They were very casual events that would just sort of happen, there wasn’t a lot of structure to them. 

“It certainly wasn’t like countries were competing against each other,” he adds. “The focus was more on the individual.”

In the years since, the more informal format of the World AeroPress Championship has stayed true to its roots. But more importantly, it has helped to set several important precedents in specialty coffee competitions. For one, a coffee enthusiast (and not an industry professional) won the first-ever AeroPress Championship – even beating a World Barista Champion.

“Andres was a regular customer at Tim Wendelboe,” Tim Williams recalls. “He wasn’t a coffee pro.”

Additionally, the WAC was one of the first coffee competitions to see women crowned as the winners. Danish competitor Maria Hagemeister was announced as the 2010 World AeroPress Champion – the first-ever female winner only two years after the first event. 

We’ve also seen other women win the World AeroPress Championship – helping to improve inclusivity and representation in specialty coffee:

• Belgian competitor Charlene de Buysere, who won in 2012
• Paulina Miczka, representing the UK, who won in 2017
• US competitor Carolina Ibarra Garay in 2018
• Dutch barista Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver, who won in 2019
• Rawirat Techasitthanet (better known as Jibbi Little), who is the 2022 World AeroPress Champion

Then and now: How has the competition changed?

The World AeroPress Championship has clearly evolved over the past 15 years, with around 120 annual regional and national heats taking place on top of the world finals. One factor that Tim and other organisers strive to maintain, however, is the competition’s intimate and easy-going format.

Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver is the founder of the Happy Coffee Network, as well as the 2019 Dutch Barista Champion. She competed in the World AeroPress Championship the same year.

“I figured I would throw my AeroPress in my backpack, hop on my bike and head over there, have a beer, brew a cup of coffee, and have a good time,” she tells me. “Even if I had been kicked out in the first round, I still would have had the best time.”

As well as retaining its fun identity throughout the years, the WAC has also remained accessible to a wide range of competitors. For example, Tim explains that entry fees for the national championships are capped – and equate to around eight hours of a local barista’s wages.

Additionally, the WAC also covers national AeroPress Champion’s travel and accommodation fees to attend the world finals, and provides all competitors with the same coffee.

Tim says that because of its more accessible nature, “the competition continues to have a huge number of sign-ups around the world”.

Notable rule changes

For the most part, the format of the World AeroPress Championship has largely remained the same.

One of the most significant rules changes, however, happened in 2021. That year, organisers decreased the dose competitors could use – reduced down from a theoretically unlimited amount of coffee to 18g. 

“I think that was a big shock to a lot of people,” Wendelien says. 

Essentially, limiting the dose means there is less reason to use the popular bypass brewing method, which Wendelien took advantage of in her winning 2019 routine. She recalls that she was introduced to bypass brewing shortly before taking part in competition. This technique involves using a higher dose and less brewing water to extract concentrated coffee, which is then diluted with water to taste. It’s somewhat similar to Alan Adler’s original AeroPress recipe.

“I think bypass brewing paid off because if you use a really high dose, you can do different things to emphasise the acidity,” Wendelien explains – adding that it can even increase the chances of winning.

“Having judged six or seven championships since my win, I know how difficult it is to stand out,” she says. “You’re tasting the same coffee, and sometimes everyone even uses the same water, so the differences are often really small.”

Partly thanks to its use at the World AeroPress Championship, bypass brewing has gained a lot of traction in the wider coffee industry. Wendelien, however, believes reducing the dose was a necessary rule change.

“If you have a similar recipe that wins four times in a row, people will inevitably start to copy and paste,” she tells me. “With the new rule, it kind of re-sparked creativity again by setting some limits.”

What might be in store for the future?

Looking back on the impact of the World AeroPress Championship, Tim believes it has “definitely inspired a lot of other competitions”.

It’s also clear that aspects of the WAC have influenced wider specialty coffee culture. One example is the inverted brewing method, which became popular among coffee shops and home brewers after being used for the 2009 winning recipe.

“We didn’t really anticipate this degree of responsibility,” Tim says. “Winning actually means a lot. I think six or seven years ago, we didn’t acknowledge the gravitas of the competition. It was just a bit of fun, and if you did well at the competition then great. And if you didn’t, well, it was too bad.

“One day, somebody pulled me aside and said, ‘Well that’s true for you because you have a career in coffee, but for the entry-level barista, putting AeroPress Champion on their CV becomes a gateway for them’,” he adds.

New products, new formats?

With new AeroPress products recently released – including the XL brewer and Flow Control cap – it’s important to question how these could influence the future of the competition. For now, WAC competitors cannot use these new accessories and brewers, but that could always change in the future.

“Without giving too much away, this year’s national Australian Championship will explore some of these opportunities,” Tim hints. While we still know very little about the new multi-round points-based format, it could have a big impact on the World AeroPress Championship going forward.

Competitors can, however, use the new AeroPress Clear. This could help them more easily observe how ground coffee interacts with the brewing water, and potentially exert more control over brewing variables. As a result, they may be able to brew better coffee and increase their chances of winning – as long as their recipe is dialled in right.

It seems that the WAC will continue to remain one of the more fun, creative, and inclusive competitions in the specialty coffee sector. In turn, it’s cemented its spot as one of the most exciting events taking place every year.

But as for what else the future holds, we will have to wait and see what happens in Australia this December.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on if there is space for new coffee competitions.

Photo credits: Mavick Media, Shane Gallagher

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To add to this, the precision of fully-automatic machines is only improving. Now more than ever, users are able to control different variables – ranging from grind size to extraction time to how much microfoam is dispensed.

However, the argument still remains that these machines can diminish the “craft” of making coffee. In turn, the majority of specialty coffee shops and roasters still favour traditional (or automatic) espresso machines. This way, baristas can showcase their skills much more obviously.

But has specialty coffee’s opinion about fully-automatic espresso machines started to change? 

One of the most recent examples of this potential shift in perspective was on 17 August 2023, when the Specialty Coffee Association opened applications for the 2024-27 World Latte Art Championship qualified sponsorships. For the first time since the competition began in 2005, manufacturers of both traditional and fully-automatic espresso machines can apply.

So is this a signal of wider change, or just a shift in the competition format? To explore this further, I spoke to Carmen Clemente, 2022 World Latte Art Champion, and Umberto Majer, President and CEO of VEA. 

You may also like our article on how super-automatic espresso machines are evolving.

Automatic vs. fully-automatic: What’s the difference? 

In most coffee shops around the world, you’ll find an automatic espresso machine. This is a term used to describe what we consider a standard espresso machine in the specialty coffee sector.

Essentially, automatic machines require baristas to grind and dose coffee into portafilters, which are then inserted into the machine’s groupheads. The barista presses a button, and the machine extracts the espresso according to a predetermined yield. Once the target weight is reached, it will automatically stop brewing.

In comparison, when using semi-automatic espresso machines, baristas need to manually start and stop extraction by pushing a button. For obvious reasons, these machines require baristas to be more attentive to yield and extraction time. If not, they risk pulling a bad shot.

Baristas also need to steam milk and pour latte art by hand if using an automatic or semi-automatic espresso machine.

So this brings us to fully-automatic machines. Carmen is also the co-founder of the World Latte Art & Coffee Center in Milan, Italy with her partner and fellow competitor Manuela Fensore. She explains the differences.

“Fully-automatic espresso machines basically do all the tasks which are normally carried out by the barista,” she says. “They grind, dispense, tamp, and extract coffee, and even dispose of the used coffee grounds.”

Beyond this, some fully-automatic machines can also foam, dispense, and pour different types of milk – including plant-based options.

How has fully-automatic espresso machine technology evolved in recent years?

Espresso machine technology in general has come a long way over the past decade or so. Alongside more striking and ergonomic designs, overall machine performance has improved significantly. Baristas are now able to tweak more extraction variables than ever before to serve excellent espresso. Some of these include pre-infusion time and flow rate.

Similarly, fully-automatic espresso machine technology has also become much more advanced.

“A few years ago, it was difficult to extract a decent cup of coffee using these machines,” Carmen says. “But as a result of innovation in machine technology, and the support of several prominent figures in the specialty coffee industry, you can now get outstanding results.”

It’s true that in recent years a number of seasoned specialty coffee professionals and competitors have become brand ambassadors for fully-automatic espresso machine manufacturers. Some of these include:

• The 2023 World Barista Champion, Boram Um, who recently became the global brand ambassador for Eversys
  • The 2017 World Barista Champion, Dale Harris, is also an Eversys brand ambassador
• Regular World Barista Championship competitor Wojciech Tysler, who is the first-ever brand ambassador for Franke Coffee Systems

“There is still room for improvement, such as how evenly the coffee is distributed in the extraction chamber and ensuring that all spent coffee grounds are flushed from the filter,” Carmen adds. “But fully-automatic espresso machine technology is continuously improving.”

Umberto is the President and CEO of VEA, a professional coffee equipment manufacturer which includes brands like Carimali, Heylo, Elektra, and Slingshot.

“In recent years, the technology powering fully-automatic espresso machines has advanced significantly,” he says. “Generally speaking, these machines have become more user-friendly and reliable, and also serve high-quality coffee.”

Convenience is key

One of the biggest drivers of growth in the coffee industry is convenience. Whether it’s capsules, mobile ordering, or ready-to-drink coffee, consumers have started to prioritise convenience now more than ever.

At the same time, the specialty coffee sector has also been embracing automation to improve efficiency and productivity. We’ve seen this across the board – ranging from optical sorters on coffee farms to AI-driven roasters to automated tampers.

In line with these changes, it becomes clear why fully-automatic espresso machines have become more advanced and quality-focused, too.

“Manufacturers have developed self-adjusting grinders, so baristas don’t need to manually change grind size throughout the day – or even the lifespan of the machine,” Umberto explains. “Grinder performance can vary due to various external factors like humidity, which can then affect performance and coffee quality.

“Additionally, fully-automatic espresso machine features like pre-infusion, temperature stability, and pressure control all help to achieve a better extraction. And this results in tastier drinks,” he adds.

Where do fully-automatic espresso machines fit into specialty coffee?

The specialty coffee sector is continuing to adopt more automated solutions. With this in mind, it’s important to understand the role that fully-automatic machines will play in the future. 

Despite the growing use of automated milk foaming solutions, we certainly won’t see many coffee shops transition away from traditional espresso machines any time soon.

But that doesn’t necessarily mean specialty coffee isn’t willing to accept fully-automatic machines. Earlier this year, the SCA opened up its 2024-27 World Latte Art Championship qualified sponsorship applications to fully-automatic espresso machine manufacturers for the first time.

New WLAC sponsors

To be considered for WLAC sponsorship, espresso machines need to meet rigorous standards and pass a series of tests. Any machine which meets this criteria is deemed as “competition grade”, and can then be selected as the sponsor machine for three years.

In addition to technical skills, WLAC judges assess several aesthetic attributes of competitors’ latte art. These include foam quality, contrast between coffee and milk, level of difficulty, and overall visual appeal. Considering this, the SCA must feel assured that fully-automatic machines can produce well-textured microfoam to the same standards as traditional espresso machines.

For this year’s World Latte Art Championship (to be held in Taipei, Taiwan from 17 to 20 November), Sanremo’s automatic Café Racer is the qualified sponsor espresso machine. This means we’re still yet to see if the SCA selects a fully-automatic machine for next year’s event – and how that could impact the competition.

“Overall, the introduction of these machines is likely to shift the focus of the competition more towards the craft of latte art,” Umberto says. “This could potentially make the championship more accessible to a wider range of coffee professionals.”

Carmen, meanwhile, has a slightly different opinion on the new sponsorship rules.

“I’m concerned the competition might lose its charm if we don’t get to see the full range of a barista’s movements when steaming milk,” she says.

Looking to the future

As part of the discussion about fully-automatic machines at the WLAC, we also need to look beyond competitions.

Many argue that these machines can strip away the artisanal aspects of preparing coffee, or even diminish the necessary human elements that baristas provide – which is a cornerstone of specialty coffee culture. 

There is certainly some merit to these perspectives, but Carmen believes fully-automatic machines will serve a different purpose which only enhances specialty coffee.

“These machines allow customers to drink great coffee in places where they typically couldn’t before,” she tells me – pointing to hotels, service stations, and supermarkets as examples. 

She also emphasises that baristas will continue to play a key role in coffee shops, and their replacement is unlikely.

“There will always be the need for a trained professional to understand how to extract espresso and serve drinks,” she continues. “Baristas will always need to check coffee and beverage quality, and resolve any issues with the machines.”

A positive impact

Like with many other automated solutions, fully-automatic espresso machines have the ability to improve workflow and productivity.

Umberto explains that because these machines can take on more of the barista’s tasks, there is potential to enhance the customer experience. 

“Baristas can focus on other aspects of their job – such as pouring latte art and interacting with customers – without sacrificing quality during busy periods,” he says. “As a result, fully-automatic espresso machines can augment a barista’s skills, while maintaining customer satisfaction.”

Whether you embrace it or not, automation will keep serving an increasingly important purpose in specialty coffee, and this includes fully-automatic espresso machines.

And with these machines becoming even more advanced and precise, they have the potential to influence the specialty coffee industry in many different ways – whether at competitions or across the wider sector.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how espresso machines have changed in the 21st century.

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Damage from the fires has been devastating. As many as 115 people have been confirmed to have sadly passed away, with many others still missing. The fires also destroyed thousands of buildings, including residential homes and historic landmarks. Some national experts claim the “official” damage totals US $5.5 billion.

Many communities in Maui and other areas of Hawaii are still recovering from the fires, which is sure to take some time. To provide support to local coffee businesses and beyond, a number of fundraisers are helping to raise money and awareness.

To find out how the global coffee industry can support communities in Maui, I spoke to James “Kimo” Falconer, President of MauiGrown Coffee. Read on for more.

You may also like our guide to Hawaiian coffee production.

What happened in Maui?

It’s important to emphasise that wildfires aren’t uncommon in Hawaii. But over the past few decades, the total area burned by wildfires has increased significantly.

The Maui wildfires in early August 2023, however, were the most devastating by far – exacerbated by the state’s lack of resources and a number of climatic factors. As far back as June 2014, the Hawaii Wildfire Management Organization reported that most of the Lahaina area (located on the northwest coast of Maui) was “extremely” vulnerable to wildfire burning.

Throughout early August, intense winds from a nearby hurricane and ongoing drought conditions worsened the rapid spread of wildfires across Maui. The fires destroyed most of the historic town of Lahaina, as well as many other areas of the island like Olinda, Pulehu-Kihei, and Kula. Thousands of people have been displaced, with many fatalities and serious injuries also sadly reported.

“We lost power at 4am on 8 August, the fire had started in a bush in a residential area,” Kimo says. “The fire was out of control in no time and burned down the entire town of Lahaina.”

On the same day, local authorities signed an emergency declaration, which included activating the Hawaii National Guard. By 9 August, Hawaiian authorities announced a state of emergency. On 10 August, US President Joe Biden issued a federal major disaster declaration.

How is the local coffee sector affected?

Every year, Hawaii produces around five million pounds (2.3 million kg) of green coffee. While Kona is one of the most well-known growing regions, the island of Maui accounts for roughly one-sixth of the state’s total coffee production.

Hawaiian coffee producers have been facing a number of challenges in recent years. These include the emergence of coffee leaf rust on several islands and legal battles over mislabelling of Kona coffee. But despite these difficulties, coffee production has been steadily rising over the last few years.

The wildfires in August, however, caused significant damage to coffee farms in Maui, as Kimo explains.

“We lost our mill, processing facilities, store, and most of our warehoused coffee,” he says. “Because of this, we won’t harvest any coffee this year.”

Other local coffee brands have also been impacted. The Maui Coffee Company, which is a family-owned and operated business, said in an Instagram post on 12 August 2023: 

“Maui Coffee and our family are okay. Lahaina is destroyed and it is heartbreaking. We have several employees who lost their homes and some of our operations were severely impacted, but we are trying our best to get things up and running for our employees, our customers, and our family.”

Sadly, even if coffee producers or local companies didn’t experience direct damage to their property, the majority of businesses had to close following hazardous conditions caused by the wildfires.

Fundraisers to support communities in Maui

Many communities and businesses are still recovering from the ongoing effects of the wildfires. In response, several fundraisers have been launched to provide support and resources:

Help Lahaina Get Caffeinated Again

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-lahaina-get-caffeinated-again

The GoFundMe campaign is organised by Christina Pundyke, who is the owner of Alba’s Cuban Coladas in Maui. The campaign is raising funds to support coffee businesses in Lahaina.

Several coffee companies will receive a share of all donations, including:

• Bad Ass Coffee
• Belle Surf Café
• Café Café Maui
• VigiLatte Artisan Coffee
• Drift Coffee
• Keiki Bowls Café
• Maui Island Coffee

VigiLatte Maui Wildfire Fundraiser

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-vigilatte-rebuild

The GoFundMe campaign is raising funds to help VigiLatte Artisan Coffee rebuild its business and support its staff, many of whom are now homeless and without work. Neighbouring businesses also affected by the wildfires will receive a share of the donations. 

VigiLatte is also continuing to sell coffee online, and all sales proceeds will also go towards the fundraiser.

Maui Coffee Co. Wildfire Employee Relief

https://www.gofundme.com/f/maui-coffee-co-maui-wildfire-employee-relief

After three of its employees lost their homes due to the fires, the Maui Coffee Company launched a GoFundMe campaign. All three employees have worked for Maui Coffee Company for over two decades.

All funds raised through the campaign will be used to provide housing, food, and basic amenities to the employees.

Other fundraising campaigns

In addition to fundraisers focusing on the Maui coffee sector, there are also several organisations working to support the wider community on the island.

• Maui Strong Fund
  • Organised by the Hawai‘i Community Foundation, Maui Strong Fund is providing immediate and long-term financial support to local people
  • HCF is working closely with state and county leaders, non-profits, and community members to better understand the changing needs of those affected by the wildfires 
• World Central Kitchen
  • World Central Kitchen’s emergency response team is currently in Maui working with local partners Chef Hui and Common Ground Collective to provide food and water to impacted residents and first responders
  • Donations are helping to support WCK’s emergency food relief efforts in these communities
• People’s Fund of Maui
  • The People’s Fund of Maui is providing direct financial assistance to people in Lahaina and Kula who are affected by the wildfires
• Maui Mutual Aid Fund
  • Donations raised are being distributed directly to Maui residents, led by Kānaka Maoli community members to ensure the most vulnerable individuals and families receive the right level of support
• Maui Rapid Response Operating Support Fund
  • The fundraising campaign is providing ongoing support and supplies to Maui Rapid Response’s central hub – which is a disaster response team including individuals from the Maui community, as well as several non-profit and direct aid organisations
• Give Directly to Maui Residents
  • The spreadsheet is updated regularly to raise awareness of affected community members, their stories, and links to their respective GoFundMe campaigns and Venmo accounts
    • Please note: This is a crowdsourced campaign and individual entries are not verified
• Maui United Way
  • The disaster relief organisation is providing immediate assistance to local non-profits, as well as impacted individuals and families

Other ways to provide support

Fundraisers and donations are incredibly important ways to help local communities and businesses in Maui rebuild from the devastating impact of the wildfires.

With some coffee companies managing to reopen in Lahaina, another way to provide support is to buy coffee.

For example, Hawaiian company Big Island Coffee Roasters launched a Lāhainā Maui Strong Blend, with 100% of in-store and online proceeds going directly to the Maui Strong Fund. 

Unfortunately, following such significant loss of infrastructure in the Maui coffee sector, Big Island was unable to fulfill orders – leading the roaster to blend the coffee with Central and South American beans as a means of continuing sales.

Other local roasters who may be selling Maui-grown coffee include Maui Coffee Roasters, Maui Coffee Company, Origin Coffee Roasters, and Maui Oma.

Despite the many challenges ahead, Kimo remains hopeful that communities in Maui can steadily recover in time.

“‘Lahaina Strong’ is our motto and the town will rebuild,” he says. “[The ongoing support] touches everyone in the community.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on four things you should know about Hawaiian coffee.

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