Over the ensuing decades, we have come to define specialty coffee even more rigorously – largely using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point quality scale.

Our definitions, however, are not just technical. More holistic terms like “sustainable”, “traceable”, “transparent”, and “direct trade” are ubiquitous with specialty coffee, yet it’s challenging to pinpoint what these terms actually mean in the wider context of the supply chain.

Additionally, it’s always important to remember how far the industry has come – as well as to question what the future holds – and ask if these terms are still as relevant and applicable today as they were several years ago.

To find out, I spoke to Tony Dreyfuss, co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee, Rohan Kuriyan, a producer at Balanoor Plantations, and Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver, founder of the Happy Coffee Network.

You may also like our article exploring the language of specialty coffee.

Technical vs holistic definitions of specialty coffee

There is a language of specialty coffee that many of us easily recognise. Terms like “third wave”, “craft”, “artisan”, and “single origin” resonate with coffee consumers around the world.

Some of these terms, however, are becoming less and less relevant. For example, “craft” and “artisan” – which we associate with a more hands-on approach – are arguably less applicable when automation is playing such a prevalent role in the industry. 

But to objectively define specialty coffee, the majority of industry professionals use the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale. Once cupped, if a coffee scores 80 points or above, it is classified as specialty grade. 

There are also varying degrees of quality between 80 and 100 points:

• Coffee which scores 80 to 84.99 is “Very good”
• Scores of 85 to 89.99 are considered “Excellent”
• Coffee scoring from 90 to 100 points are graded “Outstanding”

The number of defects is also important when objectively defining specialty coffee. Within a 350g sample of green coffee, there must be no more than five defects.

Wendelien van Bunnik-Verver is the 2019 World AeroPress Champion, a Dutch Barista Champion, and an authorised SCA trainer. She explains that although cup scores are important, they aren’t always an indicator of whether a coffee is objectively “good” or “bad”.

“I have worked at a roastery for ten years and we didn’t buy coffee based on cup scores alone,” she says. “We sometimes bought coffees that were less than 80 points, and I tasted so many amazing coffees that weren’t specialty grade. 

“Not crossing the 80-point threshold doesn’t make a coffee bad or inferior,” she adds. “It won’t be specialty, but it can still be good coffee.”

The increasing role of sustainability in defining specialty coffee

Over the past few years, sustainability, traceability, and transparency have all become increasingly important for specialty coffee consumers. In turn, these terms have helped to redefine specialty coffee in more broader ways – and are very much still relevant today.

While we can easily define these terms on their own, their relationship to specialty coffee can be less straightforward.

Tony Dreyfuss is the co-founder and co-president of Metropolis Coffee – a roaster in Chicago, Illinois, US.

“A lot of factors go into sustainability,” he tells me. “There is economic sustainability for both producers and the overall market, as well as ecological sustainability in terms of minimising harm to the land, environment, natural resources, and people.

“For a coffee to be specialty grade, it is extremely important for it to be produced sustainably,” he adds.

Social sustainability is also key. With more consumers (especially younger generations) choosing to buy from socially responsible brands, supply chain actors and stakeholders are looking for more ways to benefit the industry as a whole. These can vary from encouraging waste reduction in coffee shops to improving access to clean water in producing communities, for example.

Rohan Kuriyan is a coffee producer at Balanoor Plantations in India, which focuses heavily on sustainability.

“For producers, specialty coffee comes full circle – including looking after our staff and workers, the environment, our entire farm ecosystem, and the coffee we harvest,” he says. “All these intricacies and factors put together help define specialty coffee, in my opinion.

“Without sustainability, it would be nearly impossible for us to survive,” he adds. “Being economically sustainable through practices like multi-cropping and implementing new farming methods are indispensable for the future.”

The push to make specialty coffee more inclusive, approachable, and accessible

As part of its marketing and branding, specialty coffee is inherently quite exclusive, and therefore comes with a higher price tag. In an effort to scale the market, however, there has been a push to make specialty coffee more accessible and approachable.

With entry barriers like price, equipment, and knowledge, it’s more than understandable that specialty coffee isn’t affordable for many people. Moreover, the sometimes judgemental mentality of the sector – such as attitudes towards dark roasts and adding milk and sugar to filter coffee – means some consumers may not feel that specialty coffee is for them.

“Coffee needs to be simplified – you don’t need to be an expert to experience and understand good coffee,” Rohan says. “Consumers can just focus on their experience without having to undergo thorough, in-depth education about coffee. We want everyone to get a taste of specialty coffee that producers work so hard to grow.”

Ultimately, making specialty coffee more inclusive would be, in a way, an attempt to change its definition. Because it’s marketed as a premium product – which is also an important part of the industry’s ethos and values, especially with paying producers fairly – specialty coffee will always remain somewhat exclusionary. 

Democratising and simplifying specialty coffee, however, is becoming increasingly relevant to ensuring the market continues to grow.

“Specialty is just a grade of coffee, it shouldn’t define who can consume it,” Tony tells me. “Having a mark or a symbol on packaging to indicate that it’s specialty coffee could be helpful, not just in educating consumers but also to enable more people to purchase and enjoy a good cup of coffee.

“That way, customers can see the mark on the bag and know that the beans they’re buying have been produced sustainably, are excellent quality, and are certified specialty grade,” he adds.

So what might the future hold?

The specialty coffee industry is ever-evolving, so ensuring the language we use to describe it stays relevant is important. In fact, even objective definitions seem to be broadening and changing to become less rigid.

In its 2021 white paper entitled Towards a Definition of Specialty Coffee: Building an Understanding Based on Attributes, the SCA explored a new framework of how to define specialty coffee:

“We can conceive the specialty-commodity relationship not as a duality but as a continuum, with coffees becoming more special as they exhibit more distinctive attributes,” the paper states. “Through this lens, it is easier to identify specialty coffee by simply assessing its attributes – both intrinsic (absence of defects, flavour attributes, bean size, etc.) and extrinsic (origin, producer, agricultural style, etc.).

“This framework makes obvious the importance of traceability and transparency since these programmes make more extrinsic attributes a part of the product,” it continues. “An untraceable coffee must be evaluated on its intrinsic attributes alone, whereas a transparently traceable coffee may have dozens of extrinsic attributes on top of the intrinsic ones, potentially making the coffee much more valuable in the marketplace.”

In April 2023, we then saw this new framework put into practice as the SCA officially launched its Coffee Value Assessment. Essentially, the new system reduces the intersubjectivity of cupping and allows industry professionals to gather much more information about a specific coffee.

Interestingly, alongside assessing its physical, affective (the cupper’s personal opinion on coffee quality based on the 100-point scale), and descriptive characteristics, cupping scores can also be based on extrinsic factors. These include “identity”, certification, and origin – so sustainability and traceability could become increasingly relevant to how we define specialty coffee.

Creating broader definitions – but not too broad

It’s evident that the industry is changing the definition of specialty coffee to become more inclusive and far reaching. But we still need to keep in mind that objective definitions are essential, too.

“The definition of specialty coffee must broaden to include sustainability, but also remain narrow enough that we’re not defining a ‘feeling’,” Tony explains. “It also needs to expand to include the terms and attributes that come with newer and more innovative processing methods.”

Wendelien, meanwhile, believes that opening up specialty coffee to more people will further help to define it.

“The power of making an impact lies with the masses,” she concludes. “The more we educate people about specialty coffee, the more they become aware of what went into producing it and what it’s worth.”

To progress and build a thriving coffee industry for the future, we need to continuously clarify and refine what we mean when we say “specialty”.

The definition must signify the efforts of everyone in the value chain, and only then will be truly relevant. But one thing is for sure: the term “specialty coffee” has evolved significantly over the past few decades – and it may have even further to go.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on if we need to redefine specialty coffee.

Photo credits: Balanoor Plantations

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post The language of specialty coffee: Is it still relevant? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Every coffee competition, however, needs a group of highly skilled and experienced judges to assess performance, and ultimately determine the rankings and overall winner. Judges not only need to stay sharp, but they also have to be transparent, honest, and thorough when providing their scores and feedback. In short, we often don’t realise just how challenging it can be to judge competitions.

So is there a way to minimise this pressure and ensure a fairer process for both competitors and judges? I spoke to Trent Rollings, a certified World Coffee Championships sensory judge, and Sonja Björk Grant, a pioneering figure in creating the World Barista Championship’s judging format and procedures, to find out more.

You may also like our article on the new rules for the 2024 World Barista Championship.

How are coffee competitions judged?

There are many coffee competitions that take place every year, but the World Coffee Championships (WCC) are some of the most prominent and exciting. These include:

• World Barista Championship
• World Brewers Cup
• World Coffee Roasting Championship
• World Cup Tasters Championship
• World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship
• World Latte Art Championship
• World Cezve/Ibrik Championship

Every WCC event (largely excluding the World Cup Tasters Championship) relies on a panel of judges to score all competitors’ performances. Scores are assessed and based on different sets of rules and parameters which are unique to each competition. This means judges must have a thorough understanding of the specific rules, and need to be attentive to every aspect of a competitor’s routine and presentation. 

Moreover, there are different types of WCC judges. For instance, technical judges assess participants’ skills and workflow – including hygiene and food safety. Sensory judges, meanwhile, focus on coffee and beverage quality, as well as how accurate flavour and mouthfeel descriptors are.

In addition to passing a certification course and attending recalibration sessions, WCC judges need to keep up with any new rules and regulations – as well as any changes and developments in the wider specialty coffee sector.

In addition to being a WCC judge, Trent Rollings is a SCA trainer and competition consultant.

“Every year, there are some rule changes,” he tells me. “Last year at the World Barista Championship, the rules were changed to allow plant milks. 

“There are also the usual updates in how scoring is done and with the prompts on the sheet,” he adds. “Judges must be updated about all of these changes.”

Exploring the challenges of judging competitions

There are countless articles focusing on WCC competitors which highlight their dedicated journey in taking part, or ultimately winning. But the process isn’t exactly straightforward and easy for the judges either.

From sensory fatigue and mental exhaustion to keeping up with rule changes, being a coffee competition judge requires a lot of time and investment.

Palate fatigue

Taste bud exhaustion or palate fatigue can be one of the biggest challenges for competition judges. At events like the World Barista, Brewers Cup, Coffee in Good Spirits, and Coffee Roasting Championships, judges are required to taste every beverage prepared by all competitors.

Sonja Björk Grant is a co-founder of Kaffibrugghúsið in Reykjavik, Iceland, and has been a WCC judge for 22 years.

“At the World Coffee Championships, there are judging slots throughout the day which are usually between two and five routines,” she says. “[If they are certified to do so], judges will sometimes switch between sensory, technical, and head judging. 

“Every judge should know the limits of their palate and their tolerance,” she adds. “For example, you can’t judge too many WCIGS routines because you would drink too much alcohol. You can also eat bread and biscuits and drink water in the calibration room to clean your palate.”

Mental fatigue

In addition to sensory fatigue, listening to and judging so many competitors can be mentally exhausting. Judges need to be just as focused and stay just as sharp for the last competitor of the day as they were for the first person.

“When they are performing, the competitors are providing you with a lot of information – it can be overwhelming for the judges sometimes,” Trent explains. “So you have to prioritise intaking the information. I avoid writing too many notes and try to focus on understanding the competitor – how they’re explaining what they are doing, which ingredients they’re using, and what they have pre-prepared for their routine.

“It’s important, however, that competitors feel that the judges are engaged with them and are paying attention to what they are saying and doing,” he adds.

Sonja emphasises how concentration is absolutely essential for judges.

“When I walk on the stage, greet the competitor, and a new routine starts, there is nothing else on my mind. I have a scoresheet before me, and I am looking for answers to the questions on the sheet,” she tells me. “Once the routine is done, I leave the stage, finish writing my comments in the calibration room, turn in my sheet, and then I forget the routine that just finished so I am ready for the next competitor. 

“I want to be very focused on staying in the moment of the routine so I don’t miss anything the barista is saying that is relevant to the drinks they are serving,” she adds. “This comes with practice and experience.”

Staying calibrated and minimising variance

As part of the WCC recertification process, judges must attend calibration sessions before the competitions take place. This is critical to ensuring all judges’ palates are as calibrated and aligned as possible to make sure the judging process is fair and consistent.

And this is especially important considering that judges often come from different countries and cultural backgrounds. In turn, they will have varying levels of exposure to different foods and cuisines, which will ultimately influence their palates.

Judges also need to ensure they are well-rested for each day of the competitions, and should avoid eating certain foods which could inhibit their ability to taste flavour notes in coffee.

“You shouldn’t eat spicy and strong-tasting or smelling foods – or anything that can taint your palate – just before and during the championships,” Trent explains.

Communication challenges

Just like the judges, WCC competitors come from all over the world. Naturally, this can present language barriers – especially considering that the championships must take place in English or with an interpreter. 

On top of that, communicating with the other judges – especially during deliberation – requires excellent verbal skills. 

“You need to know when to assert yourself and your reasoning for the score you gave, and when to say that you might not have been fully calibrated,” Trent says. “Judging is a team sport and it requires everyone to be in sync.”

As part of debrief sessions, the judges speak to every competitor to discuss their routine. While most debriefs are amicable and run smoothly, disagreements between competitors and judges are certainly possible. If this happens, it’s important to remain respectful at all times.

How can competitor organisers improve the judging experience?

First and foremost, Trent points out that consistency in the format and structure of the competitions is an important step.

“Improving consistency between the regional, national, and world levels of the championships would make a big difference,” he says. “It would help the judges, as well as the competitors, to be better prepared.”

Given how competitors receive feedback on their routines, it could be beneficial to implement a similar system for judges. For instance, head judges or WCC representatives could potentially provide individual guidance on how to improve judging techniques or how to remain calibrated.

Acknowledging the positives

Sonja emphasises that the judging experience can be highly rewarding, of course.

“I have loved my journey of being a WCC judge for 22 years,” Sonja says. “It was definitely not all a walk in the park, but what I enjoyed the most was being able to understand different coffee cultures from around the world and the people working in them.”

While it can be a difficult process, becoming a WCC judge is considered a prestigious and honourable position – and Trent recognises this.

“It’s not about competitors vs judges – we’re not looking to take away points and punish the competitors,” he says. “For the most part, we are very supportive. We want the competitor to feel like we are engaged with them.”

Taking part in the World Coffee Championships is an opportunity for coffee professionals to learn and grow. And while we mostly associate this opportunity with the competitors, it also rings true for the judges.

Ultimately, by encouraging open communication and providing better support to the judges, organisers can improve the competition experience for everyone.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how coffee competitions have changed in recent years.

Photo credits: Trent Rollings, Specialty Coffee Association, World Coffee Events

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Judging coffee competitions is challenging – and organisers need to recognise that appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Damage from the fires has been devastating. As many as 115 people have been confirmed to have sadly passed away, with many others still missing. The fires also destroyed thousands of buildings, including residential homes and historic landmarks. Some national experts claim the “official” damage totals US $5.5 billion.

Many communities in Maui and other areas of Hawaii are still recovering from the fires, which is sure to take some time. To provide support to local coffee businesses and beyond, a number of fundraisers are helping to raise money and awareness.

To find out how the global coffee industry can support communities in Maui, I spoke to James “Kimo” Falconer, President of MauiGrown Coffee. Read on for more.

You may also like our guide to Hawaiian coffee production.

What happened in Maui?

It’s important to emphasise that wildfires aren’t uncommon in Hawaii. But over the past few decades, the total area burned by wildfires has increased significantly.

The Maui wildfires in early August 2023, however, were the most devastating by far – exacerbated by the state’s lack of resources and a number of climatic factors. As far back as June 2014, the Hawaii Wildfire Management Organization reported that most of the Lahaina area (located on the northwest coast of Maui) was “extremely” vulnerable to wildfire burning.

Throughout early August, intense winds from a nearby hurricane and ongoing drought conditions worsened the rapid spread of wildfires across Maui. The fires destroyed most of the historic town of Lahaina, as well as many other areas of the island like Olinda, Pulehu-Kihei, and Kula. Thousands of people have been displaced, with many fatalities and serious injuries also sadly reported.

“We lost power at 4am on 8 August, the fire had started in a bush in a residential area,” Kimo says. “The fire was out of control in no time and burned down the entire town of Lahaina.”

On the same day, local authorities signed an emergency declaration, which included activating the Hawaii National Guard. By 9 August, Hawaiian authorities announced a state of emergency. On 10 August, US President Joe Biden issued a federal major disaster declaration.

How is the local coffee sector affected?

Every year, Hawaii produces around five million pounds (2.3 million kg) of green coffee. While Kona is one of the most well-known growing regions, the island of Maui accounts for roughly one-sixth of the state’s total coffee production.

Hawaiian coffee producers have been facing a number of challenges in recent years. These include the emergence of coffee leaf rust on several islands and legal battles over mislabelling of Kona coffee. But despite these difficulties, coffee production has been steadily rising over the last few years.

The wildfires in August, however, caused significant damage to coffee farms in Maui, as Kimo explains.

“We lost our mill, processing facilities, store, and most of our warehoused coffee,” he says. “Because of this, we won’t harvest any coffee this year.”

Other local coffee brands have also been impacted. The Maui Coffee Company, which is a family-owned and operated business, said in an Instagram post on 12 August 2023: 

“Maui Coffee and our family are okay. Lahaina is destroyed and it is heartbreaking. We have several employees who lost their homes and some of our operations were severely impacted, but we are trying our best to get things up and running for our employees, our customers, and our family.”

Sadly, even if coffee producers or local companies didn’t experience direct damage to their property, the majority of businesses had to close following hazardous conditions caused by the wildfires.

Fundraisers to support communities in Maui

Many communities and businesses are still recovering from the ongoing effects of the wildfires. In response, several fundraisers have been launched to provide support and resources:

Help Lahaina Get Caffeinated Again

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-lahaina-get-caffeinated-again

The GoFundMe campaign is organised by Christina Pundyke, who is the owner of Alba’s Cuban Coladas in Maui. The campaign is raising funds to support coffee businesses in Lahaina.

Several coffee companies will receive a share of all donations, including:

• Bad Ass Coffee
• Belle Surf Café
• Café Café Maui
• VigiLatte Artisan Coffee
• Drift Coffee
• Keiki Bowls Café
• Maui Island Coffee

VigiLatte Maui Wildfire Fundraiser

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-vigilatte-rebuild

The GoFundMe campaign is raising funds to help VigiLatte Artisan Coffee rebuild its business and support its staff, many of whom are now homeless and without work. Neighbouring businesses also affected by the wildfires will receive a share of the donations. 

VigiLatte is also continuing to sell coffee online, and all sales proceeds will also go towards the fundraiser.

Maui Coffee Co. Wildfire Employee Relief

https://www.gofundme.com/f/maui-coffee-co-maui-wildfire-employee-relief

After three of its employees lost their homes due to the fires, the Maui Coffee Company launched a GoFundMe campaign. All three employees have worked for Maui Coffee Company for over two decades.

All funds raised through the campaign will be used to provide housing, food, and basic amenities to the employees.

Other fundraising campaigns

In addition to fundraisers focusing on the Maui coffee sector, there are also several organisations working to support the wider community on the island.

• Maui Strong Fund
  • Organised by the Hawai‘i Community Foundation, Maui Strong Fund is providing immediate and long-term financial support to local people
  • HCF is working closely with state and county leaders, non-profits, and community members to better understand the changing needs of those affected by the wildfires 
• World Central Kitchen
  • World Central Kitchen’s emergency response team is currently in Maui working with local partners Chef Hui and Common Ground Collective to provide food and water to impacted residents and first responders
  • Donations are helping to support WCK’s emergency food relief efforts in these communities
• People’s Fund of Maui
  • The People’s Fund of Maui is providing direct financial assistance to people in Lahaina and Kula who are affected by the wildfires
• Maui Mutual Aid Fund
  • Donations raised are being distributed directly to Maui residents, led by Kānaka Maoli community members to ensure the most vulnerable individuals and families receive the right level of support
• Maui Rapid Response Operating Support Fund
  • The fundraising campaign is providing ongoing support and supplies to Maui Rapid Response’s central hub – which is a disaster response team including individuals from the Maui community, as well as several non-profit and direct aid organisations
• Give Directly to Maui Residents
  • The spreadsheet is updated regularly to raise awareness of affected community members, their stories, and links to their respective GoFundMe campaigns and Venmo accounts
    • Please note: This is a crowdsourced campaign and individual entries are not verified
• Maui United Way
  • The disaster relief organisation is providing immediate assistance to local non-profits, as well as impacted individuals and families

Other ways to provide support

Fundraisers and donations are incredibly important ways to help local communities and businesses in Maui rebuild from the devastating impact of the wildfires.

With some coffee companies managing to reopen in Lahaina, another way to provide support is to buy coffee.

For example, Hawaiian company Big Island Coffee Roasters launched a Lāhainā Maui Strong Blend, with 100% of in-store and online proceeds going directly to the Maui Strong Fund. 

Unfortunately, following such significant loss of infrastructure in the Maui coffee sector, Big Island was unable to fulfill orders – leading the roaster to blend the coffee with Central and South American beans as a means of continuing sales.

Other local roasters who may be selling Maui-grown coffee include Maui Coffee Roasters, Maui Coffee Company, Origin Coffee Roasters, and Maui Oma.

Despite the many challenges ahead, Kimo remains hopeful that communities in Maui can steadily recover in time.

“‘Lahaina Strong’ is our motto and the town will rebuild,” he says. “[The ongoing support] touches everyone in the community.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on four things you should know about Hawaiian coffee.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How can the coffee industry support communities in Maui? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Sadly, however, production volumes began to decline shortly after for a number of reasons. Today, although the country is not widely recognised for its coffee, its unique tropical climate is well suited for coffee production. Moreover, as a result of climate change, coffee cultivation is becoming more widespread in Sri Lanka. 

Over the past few decades, yields have been steadily increasing. According to data from the Sri Lanka Export Development Board, coffee exports rose by a staggering 84% between 2017 and 2019.

At the same time, the quality of Sri Lankan coffee is also improving. This is largely attributed to industry stakeholders and supply chain actors establishing better connections with producers. In turn, this helps them to implement farming best practices and develop more formal training programmes. 

So how could Sri Lanka start growing more specialty coffee and unlock the full potential of its coffee sector? To find out, I spoke to several industry professionals at the Market Development Facility, as well as three local coffee companies. Read on to find out more.

You may also like our article on specialty coffee in Sri Lanka: from production to consumption.

When was coffee first grown in Sri Lanka?

Coffee was first introduced to Sri Lanka in the early 16th century, but only the plants’ leaves and flowers were used (largely for culinary and ceremonial purposes). It was during Dutch colonial rule (which lasted until 1796) that coffee was grown for consumption, but first attempts were relatively unsuccessful.

However, under British colonial rule, the country’s coffee sector began to expand. It was around 1864 that production peaked – with around 111,289 ha used for growing coffee. Unfortunately, this success was relatively short-lived.

In 1868, a major outbreak of coffee leaf rust devastated Sri Lankan coffee production. This forced many producers to grow tea instead. By the 1890s, the area used for coffee cultivation had shrunk to around 4,609 ha. 

The following century was somewhat of a slow path to recovery for Sri Lanka’s coffee sector, but progress was made. In the 1980s, farmers were growing coffee across 12,140 ha – resulting in the country’s exports reaching a record 3.3 million kg.

Over the past decade or so, there has been significant investment in the Sri Lankan coffee sector, which has helped to steadily increase both yields and quality.

An overview of Sri Lankan coffee production

Today, Sri Lanka grows both robusta and arabica. But production of the latter has grown in recent years – largely due to the efforts of the Department of Export Agriculture in Sri Lanka, which has been actively encouraging arabica production in the central highlands. This area includes the main arabica-growing regions such as Nuwara Eliya, Badulla, Kandy, and Matale.

Rinosh Nasar is the founder and CEO of Soul Coffee Company, which exclusively sells Sri Lankan coffee. 

“Today, while most coffee produced in Sri Lanka is robusta, arabica planting has increased significantly in recent years,” he says. “It’s soon expected that arabica production volumes will surpass those for robusta.”

The main reason for this has been the extensive development of and investment in planting arabica varieties. During the 1980s, the San Ramon variety (which is related to Typica) was intercropped with tea, followed by Catimor in the 1990s and Lakparakum in the 2000s.

The Lakparakum variety in particular is preferred by farmers because of its high yields, uniform ripening patterns, and tolerance to coffee leaf rust, as well as its potential for high cup quality.

Other common arabica varieties grown in Sri Lanka include S9 and HDT.

When it comes to exports, the country’s Export Development Board states that the US, Middle East, Maldives, Australia, China, and Japan are some of the major markets for Sri Lankan coffee.

What about processing methods?

Post-harvest activities, including processing techniques, are believed to be responsible for up to 60% of final cup quality. This means they are vital to consider.

Kushan Samararatne is the general manager at Colombo Coffee Company, a total coffee solutions provider in Sri Lanka.

“Washed and natural processing methods are the most common,” he says.

However, in the early 2010s, there were only a few processing facilities (as well as roasting companies) across the country. In turn, most producers process coffee on their farms.

Subraja Subramaniam is part of the Research, Impact, Measurement, and Inclusion (RIMI) team at the Market Development Facility. Funded by the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade, MDF is a multi-country initiative that promotes sustainable economic development throughout the Pacific region, including in Sri Lanka.

“Most of the country’s coffee that is exported is processed on farms, and producers generally use natural sun-drying processing techniques,” she says. “The country’s centralised processing system also uses washed processing methods, which tend to receive higher cup scores and better cup quality.”

Opportunities to improve coffee quality

Like in many other coffee-growing countries, Sri Lankan producers face certain challenges when it comes to scaling yields and improving quality.

MDF defines four key opportunities to invest in Sri Lanka’s coffee sector:

• Scaling coffee-growing areas
• Expanding coffee smallholder groups and improving quality on farms
• Developing processing facilities
• Improving industry coordination and promotion

It’s estimated that up to 80% of the island nation’s total coffee production comes from smallholder farmers, who are more likely to require additional support and improved access to financial resources.

Additionally, women represent about 60% of the workforce, so ensuring gender equity initiatives are in place is essential. This is particularly important because closing the gender gap in coffee production could increase global output by 4%. This equates to around 30 billion extra cups of coffee per year.

Deshan Wickremasinghe is the Business Advisor for the Coffee Unit at MDF. 

“The main barriers to the growth of the Sri Lankan coffee sector are low yields, inconsistencies in quality, and limitations to producer knowledge,” he says. “While there are 23 large regional plantation companies in Sri Lanka, they are mainly focused on producing tea and rubber. 

“However, they are actively diversifying their crops, and coffee is one of the major crops that producers are considering growing,” he adds.

Around 200,000 ha is currently used for tea cultivation in Sri Lanka, yet marginal and unproductive land has been left abandoned. Converting small parcels of this land to coffee cultivation could help boost production levels significantly.

With a focus on processing methods in particular, there is also huge potential to develop the country’s centralised processing facilities. In theory, this would help to better maintain uniformity of green coffee, as well as preserve quality and minimise waste.

A focus on training and education

Vishan Rajakaruna is a Business Advisor for the Coffee Unit at MDF. He emphasises how farming best practices are integral to growing higher-quality coffee.

“Farmers need to be educated on plant maintenance, such as pruning and applying nutrients, to ensure healthy plant growth,” he mentions. “They also need to be trained on selective picking techniques to harvest only ripe cherries, while also understanding how certain harvesting and post-harvest management practices can impact quality.

“To enhance farmer knowledge, we must also share information with them about how the specialty coffee market functions,” he adds.

Kushan agrees, saying: “Developing overall coffee quality in Sri Lanka requires a multi-faceted approach which focuses on implementing best practices, raising awareness about the financial benefits of complying with these practices, increasing knowledge sharing, and investing in better infrastructure and equipment.”

Beyond production, however, there are other ways to support the Sri Lanka coffee industry – as increasing domestic consumption is crucial, too.

For instance, local roasters need to know how to source high-quality coffee, as well as how to best roast and store coffee. At the same time, coffee shop owners and baristas need to receive formal training and have access to high-quality equipment. Eventually, this could lead to more Sri Lankan baristas competing at an international level, including at the World Coffee Championships.

Could Sri Lanka become a more renowned specialty coffee origin in the future?

Considering its history and the recent level of investment in farmer training, it’s certainly evident that Sri Lanka has plenty of potential to grow higher-quality coffee – as long as producers receive the right support.

Tharanga Muramudali is the founder and Chairman of Helanta Coffee, a coffee farm and processing facility in Sri Lanka. 

“There is a clear production gap when it comes to Sri Lankan specialty coffee,” he says. “Harvest volumes are too low, so we need to encourage farmers to plant new trees.

“There is also a knowledge gap regarding harvesting and processing techniques,” he adds. “Baristas also need to be upskilled as they have the potential to be the face of Sri Lankan coffee on a global scale, especially at events and competitions.”

Along with other industry stakeholders, MDF has played an important role in supporting these areas of the country’s coffee sector – including publishing the Sri Lanka Arabica coffee value chain analysis report and Sri Lanka’s Coffee Renaissance: A Guide to the Specialty Coffee Industry.

“MDF has been a key player in the Sri Lankan specialty coffee sector over the past few years,” Rinosh explains. “The organisation has been actively partnering with supply chain actors in the Sri Lankan coffee industry, and has been championing its growth. 

“Today, MDF is a pivotal stakeholder in developing the sector even further by providing funding for projects, sharing technical knowledge, and offering specialised support services,” he adds.

Increasing the market for Sri Lankan specialty coffee

Vishan explains that MDF attended the 2022 Melbourne International Coffee Expo, where it showcased Sri Lankan specialty coffee on a global scale. 

“There was a very positive response – people enjoyed the unique flavour profiles,” he tells me. “Sri Lankan coffee usually has notes of orange with pleasant acidity and a very good body.

“The expo generated a lot of interest in Sri Lanka as a specialty coffee origin, with Sri Lankan coffee receiving cupping scores as high as 86 points,” he adds.

Given its history, Sri Lanka has plenty of potential to keep growing higher-quality coffee. Moreover, with improved access to resources and more formal training opportunities, the future seems promising.

However, for production to grow sustainably, the country’s coffee sector needs ongoing support – most notably when it comes to scaling coffee-growing areas and improving best practices for processing methods.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on micro lots & Monsoon Malabar: India’s future as a coffee origin.

Photo credits: Market Development Facility, Upcountry Brothers

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Market Development Facility is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Could Sri Lanka produce more specialty coffee in the future? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

In line with this, demand for more socially and environmentally responsible coffee has never been higher. Supply chain actors and stakeholders, as well as consumers, understand the importance of growing, buying, and drinking sustainable coffee.

A large part of environmentally responsible coffee production revolves around regenerative agriculture. There are many sustainable farming practices included under this term, including leveraging agroecological knowledge and principles and reviving natural ecosystems.

Another key factor related to regenerative agriculture is soil health – which ultimately dictates overall coffee quality. Without healthy soil which contains the right level and balance of nutrients, as well as having the optimal structure and biology, producers will be unable to grow high-quality coffee.

So what can farmers do to improve and maintain soil health, and why is this so important? To find out, I spoke to several industry professionals at Yara, a nitrogen-based fertiliser manufacturer and distributor.

You may also like our article exploring regenerative agriculture in coffee production.

What is regenerative agriculture?

There is no formal definition of regenerative agriculture. However, the term was first used by the Rodale Institute in the 1980s to describe more holistic aspects of organic farming. Some of these practices, which can also be used in all types of agriculture, include:

• Restoring soil health
• Protecting local environments and wildlife
• Promoting biodiversity
• Conserving water

Maria Silvia Tonti is the Vice President of the Centre for Competence for RA and Carbon at Yara. 

“We define regenerative agriculture as a systematic, outcome-based approach to adopt the best sustainable farming practices that positively affect nature across five recurrent themes: climate, soil health, resource use, biodiversity, and prosperity,” she says. “Regenerative agriculture has an inclusive approach that applies to all crop and farming systems and respects the need to be context specific in agriculture.”

Ultimately, implementing regenerative agriculture practices should also support farmers to increase both quality and yields. Additionally, it should also improve their resilience to climate change.

Victor Hugo Ramirez-Builes is the Senior Scientific & Coffee Specialist at Yara. He explains why soil health is an integral aspect of regenerative agriculture.

“Healthy soil is essential for the growth of healthy coffee plants,” he says. “If soil has low fertility levels, as well as low pH (high acidity) and water retention capacity, it will limit the growth and productivity of high-quality coffee.”

Why is soil health so important?

First and foremost, we need to understand what soil health actually means.

“Good soil health can be defined as soil conditions which allow the growth and development of healthy root systems,” Victor explains. “This can be achieved if the soil is fertile, as well as having low acidity levels, proper water retention, and good distribution between the macro and micro ‘pores’ that allow for proper water drainage and retention.

“Proper soil health also allows for the mineralisation of any organic material which is added to, such as green manures,” he adds. “Also, soil’s resistance to erosion generated by rainfall is an indicator of its health.”

There are many key aspects of regenerative coffee production. Soil health, however, plays a crucial role for a number of reasons.

Miguel Andres Amado is the Business Development Manager at Yara in Colombia.

“Improving soil health is one of the most effective ways to maintain plant productivity in the long term and increase adaptation to changing environmental factors,” he says. “There is a strong correlation between the plant-soil relationship and crop productivity.”

On top of this, healthy soil also has the ability to sequester more carbon. This reduces coffee producers’ environmental footprint and improves their resilience to climate change.

To improve soil health and quality, there are a number of applications that coffee farmers can use, including fertilisers.

Simon Pogson is the Director of Soil & Analytical Services at Yara.

“Balanced crop nutrition, combined with good agricultural practices, is crucial to the regeneration of soil health and the natural activity of soil biology,” he tells me. “However, over-application of fertilisers or using fertilisers that increase acidity levels can harm the soil’s biological population and reduce soil health, as well as damaging soil structure, nutrient cycles, and water management.”

What can coffee farmers do to improve soil health?

One of the most effective ways for producers to improve the health of their soil is to apply high-quality fertilisers.

“Fertilisers play a crucial role in adding essential nutrients to soil that coffee plants need,” Maria explains. “When coffee is harvested, a significant amount of nutrients are taken from the soil, so if nutrients are repeatedly extracted without being replaced, the soil’s capacity to provide nutrients to coffee plants also diminishes.

“This can also lead to soil degradation, and reduce coffee yields and quality,” she adds. “Replenishing soil with deficient nutrients ensures it remains fertile and supports healthy coffee cultivation.

“The supplemental microbes also help to mitigate the presence of nematodes and diseases, which thereby reduces the need for harmful chemical products,” Maria continues.

Applying fertilisers at the right time, however, is also key. Soil must be well-drained, ideally have a pH level between 5.2 and 6.3, and have the right balance and volumes of nutrients. Some of these include:

• Nitrogen
• Potassium
• Phosphorus
• Calcium
• Magnesium
• Sulphur
• Zinc
• Boron
• Other micronutrients, such as copper, iron, manganese, chlorine, nickel, molybdenum, and cobalt

Supporting producers

In order to get the best results from using high-quality fertilisers, it’s important for producers to have access to the right resources.

“Yara’s analytical and digital tools ensure that farmers can take a more precise approach to nutrient management,” Maria says. “This is key to preserving and enhancing soil health.”

Disseminating and sharing knowledge and best practices are important to improving soil health, too.

Kaio Dias is the Coffee Leader at Yara in Brazil. 

“Our digital tools and agronomic knowledge help generate more accurate recommendations for fertiliser use from the right sources at the right time, in the right place, and with the right dose,” he explains. “Yara’s NossoCafé Program in Brazil, for instance, is designed for producers to get the best results from their coffee in different growing conditions. 

“In 2022, our studies showed that by adjusting the recommended potassium levels in the soil, farmers could collectively reduce use of this nutrient by more than 80,000 tonnes per year,” he adds.

The NossoCafé Program also provides producers with fertilisers which are best suited to their individual needs, as well as offering different solutions for both arabica and conilon (or robusta). The programme also recognises and celebrates Brazilian producers who are implementing more regenerative agricultural practices. 

Sergio Petrachi is a coffee producer in Brazil, who also won the 2022 NossoCafé Quality Contest Sustainability Award. He tells me about some of the sustainable practices used on his farm.

“We apply compost produced with waste from our farm, such as cattle manure,” he says. “We also provide our workers with proper salaries, learning opportunities, and accommodation, as well as maintaining nurseries for native trees and reforesting the banks of local streams and springs.”

Benefitting the entire supply chain

Ultimately, the benefits of improving soil health can extend far beyond coffee production. Along with other variables, when soil has adequate nutrients and a healthy amount of microbes, both coffee yields and quality can increase.

Theoretically, this means producers can receive more money, and invest more back into their business. Moreover, roasters can source higher-quality coffee – ensuring demand for more sustainable specialty coffee is met.

However, one of the most crucial factors to consider is improving the coffee industry’s resilience and adaptation to climate change. According to the Coffee in the 21st Century report from Conservation International, by 2050, the coffee industry will need to produce between 4 and 14 million additional tonnes of coffee per year to meet rising demand.

Unless coffee producers can significantly increase yields per ha, this means they will need to double the size of the area under coffee cultivation by 2050. And while there is more land available to grow coffee along the Bean Belt, maintaining and promoting soil health is one of the first steps to scaling production.

“Coffee is a perennial crop, and farmers can harvest each plant for 20 years or more,” Kaio says. “However, this requires proper planning and soil preparation before planting, as well as during cultivation.”

The role of gender equity

Women can account for up to 70% of labour in coffee production in certain countries. In light of this, sharing knowledge and best practices to improve soil health with them is essential.

For example, Yara’s Champion Program in Colombia – which has an exclusive initiative focused solely on women – teaches coffee farmers how to implement more regenerative agricultural practices, as well as using water and fertilisers more responsibly.

Participants also receive mentorship and access to Yara’s resources and online platforms. Members of the programme are also encouraged to participate in a competition which assesses quality standards in line with the Coffee Quality Institute’s protocols.

“Partner coffee producers can approach Yara’s agronomists located in more than 50 countries and get precise nutrient and fertiliser recommendations using our digital farming, analytical, and agronomic tools,” Victor says.

With the threat of climate change becoming more and more prevalent, there is a shared interest across the global coffee industry to find more sustainable ways to adapt to and mitigate its effects.

One of the most effective methods is to measure, manage, and improve soil health. As a result of this small but important step, coffee producers can create a more resilient supply chain in the long term.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on environmentally sustainable coffee production & profitability.

Perfect Daily Grind

Please note: Yara is a sponsor of Perfect Daily Grind.

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Why is soil health so crucial to regenerative agriculture in coffee production? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Historically, Kazakhstan is a tea-drinking nation – which is largely attributed to Russian influence. But in recent years, coffee consumption has been on the rise, too. According to Statista, the country’s coffee market will grow by 6.58% year-on-year by 2025. Moreover, since 2020, Kazakhstan’s roast & ground market has been increasing as well – and is expected to surpass sales of instant coffee within the next two years.

Since becoming independent in 1991, the country has experienced rapid economic growth – largely thanks to a huge spike in its oil and natural gas exports. And as its middle class has grown, more people have started to consume higher-quality coffee across the country.

But just how popular could Kazakhstan’s specialty coffee culture become in the next decade or so? I spoke to several local coffee professionals to find out.

You may also like our article on whether Nepal will produce more specialty coffee in the future.

A brief history of coffee in Kazakhstan

Stanislav Tyan is the owner of Massimo Coffee Roasters in Almaty – the largest city in Kazakhstan. He is also a certified Q grader.

“It’s difficult to know exactly when coffee first arrived in Kazakhstan,” he explains. “But it’s believed that Arabic and Turkish traders probably brought coffee into the country through the Silk Road.”

The Silk Road was a network of trade routes between Europe and Asia, which were active up until the mid-15th century. 

“When Kazakhstan was still a part of the Soviet Union, coffees from India were available to buy, but were considered a highly-prized commodity,” he adds. “We used to buy instant coffee which came in a metal tin, but for most people, it was difficult to buy even one tin – you needed to have good connections to buy coffee.”

Fast forward to the late 2000s and 2010s and this was certainly changing. Following the country’s rapid economic growth, more and more coffee chains began to open in Kazakhstan. Some of these included:

• Gloria Jeans’ Coffee
• Shokoladnista
• Traveler’s Coffee
• Costa Coffee
• Starbucks

During this time, it was clear that coffee was steadily becoming accessible to more people, and that it was becoming more popular. These coffee shops became important spaces for people to meet and socialise – a sign that the “third place” was becoming more prominent in Kazakh coffee culture.

Along with Almaty, the capital city of Astana (now known as Nur-Sultan) is home to the vast majority of coffee shops and roasters in the country.

Where does Kazakhstan source coffee from?

According to Kazakhstan’s Bureau of National Statistics, the country imported around 1,900 tonnes of coffee in 2021 – most of which is roasted or soluble products re-exported from other countries, rather than green coffee to be roasted in Kazakhstan itself. But this still represents a meteoric increase of 18.9% on the previous year – showing that coffee consumption is growing at pace.

During 2021, Kazakhstan imported around 1,200 tonnes of roasted coffee from Russia, most of which was instant coffee products. Other big exporters to Kazakhstan include Italy, Brazil, the Netherlands, and Germany.

Emerging consumer trends

Assel Suleimenova and Zhemis Nurzhanova are the co-owners of Nurba’s Espresso Bar in Nur-Sultan.

“Espressos, cappuccinos, and americanos are the three most ordered beverages in our coffee shop,” they explain. “We mostly use dark roast Brazilian arabica, as well as locally roasted robusta, but we’re looking to source [other coffees] in the future.”

While instant coffee products, as well as concentrates, are still hugely popular in the country, Kazakhstan coffee culture is slowly embracing specialty.

A growing specialty coffee scene

Arina Ospanova is a co-owner of What Flat coffee shop in Almaty.

“The first specialty coffee roaster came to Karaganda, Kazakhstan from Russia in 2009,” she says. “Now, there is a growing number of specialty coffee roasters in Kazakhstan, especially in Almaty and Astana (Nur-Sultan). 

“People are becoming more curious and want to try different varieties,” she adds. “At What Flat, consumers tend to enjoy Kenyan and Colombian coffees the most, along with Ethiopian coffees as espresso.

“There’s also a big demand for arabica and robusta blends,” she continues.

Aigerim Yermakhanova is Kazakhstan’s first certified Q grader. She is also a barista trainer and quality control specialist at Spectre Coffee in Almaty.

“Kazakhs usually drink coffee with milk, similar to how they drink tea,” she tells me. “Most coffee consumed in the country is instant, however, consumer preferences are evolving – more people are drinking roast & ground and specialty coffee.

“This is largely driven by the growing number of coffee shops in the country, which offer different roast profiles and origins,” she adds. “In turn, consumer awareness of high-quality coffee is growing.

“Many coffee consumers enjoy washed coffees, but they are also open to trying different and new processing methods,” she continues.

Almaz Ospanov is also a co-owner of What Flat.

“Experimentally processed coffees are becoming quite popular,” he says. “Customers ask about them frequently. Natural processed coffees are also a favourite among consumers.”

Who drinks the most coffee?

Stanislav explains that as with many other emerging specialty coffee markets, younger demographics and tourists are helping to grow specialty coffee culture in Kazakhstan.

“However, people of all ages are slowly becoming interested in specialty coffee,” he says. “My oldest customer is Nina Vasiliyevna, who is 81 years old.

“Her son-in-law introduced her to specialty coffee – she’s probably the oldest V60 brewer in Kazakhstan!” he adds. “I taught her how to use the V60 and follow James Hoffman’s recipe, and she has been using it diligently every day.”

Nina explains why she enjoys brewing and drinking coffee.

“I love the Kenyan coffees I get from Stanislav,” she says. “I always used to drink tea but since being introduced to coffee, it makes me happy and gives me more energy.”

Similar to Nina, there is a growing number of home brewers and baristas in Kazakhstan. In recent years, it’s become easier to buy specialty coffee brewing equipment, and access to online resources has become more available.

Stanislav explains that social media plays a key role in disseminating information and inspiring more curiosity.

“Massimo Coffee is the only official supplier of AeroPress, Hario, Espro, and Comandante products in Kazakhstan,” he says. “We are seeing a big increase in the number of orders for these products, and about 40% of our sales are for filter roast profiles.”

What’s it like being a barista in Kazakhstan?

As coffee culture changes in Kazakhstan, we’re likely to see the role of the barista evolve, too.

Many Kazakh coffee professionals often move to the Middle East or Australia to train as baristas. When they returned to Kazakhstan, some of them open their own roasteries or coffee shops.

Rauan Zhumazhanov (also known as the “One Hand Barista”) is a coffee professional in Kazakhstan. 

“I worked in Kazakhstan for four years, moved to Dubai for five, and then returned to Kazakhstan,” he says. “I won the regional Latte Art Championship in Dubai seven times, and I am also the 2019 Kazakh Latte Art Champion, as well as the 2019 UAE AeroPress Champion – I love what I do.”

However, it’s still not considered a long-term career path for many in the country.

“Like in many other parts of the world, being a barista is not considered an aspirational career goal in Kazakhstan,” Almaz says. “It is mostly seen as a job for students, while roasters are usually regarded as similar to any other business.”

Increasing focus on education

Wendelien van Bunnik is the 2019 World AeroPress Champion and founder of The Happy Coffee Network. She recently visited Kazakhstan to host an AeroPress brewing workshop. 

“Going to Kazakhstan and meeting the Kazakh coffee community has been a highlight of my coffee career,” she tells me. “The country’s specialty coffee sector is still young, but I can sense an eagerness and curiosity to learn more that I haven’t seen for a long time.”

Alongside events like this, online resources are a pivotal part of growing interest in specialty coffee education.

“Barista training mostly happens on the job, but the internet has been a useful resource, and has helped us connect with coffee professionals around the world,” Arina says.

Rauan agrees, saying: “I learn a lot of barista skills from online courses and videos, especially how to pour latte art.”

Although Kazakhstan is still yet to open a recognised Specialty Coffee Association training campus, some of the country’s coffee professionals and enthusiasts travel to Russia or Turkey to become Authorised SCA Trainers or Q graders.

Moreover, there is a growing number of barista schools and training centres opening in Astana (Nur-Sultan) and Almaty.

So what could the future hold?

Although Kazakhstan’s specialty coffee sector remains small, it is clearly an emerging market with potential for growth. With a rising number of tourists and expats entering the country every year, specialty coffee culture is expected to become more popular.

The current political climate brings challenges, however. With the ongoing war in Ukraine, sourcing coffee has been difficult – but it has also inspired more roasters and green buyers to buy green coffee directly from producing countries.

“In the past, the social and political conditions in Kazakhstan have been challenging at times, such as major riots in 2021 which impacted a lot of businesses,” Stanislav says. “However, the government supports coffee businesses by levying zero customs fees for green coffee with just a 12% VAT rate.”

Furthermore, with many Kazakh coffee professionals training in other parts of the world, and then returning to their home country, we’re likely to see more specialty coffee businesses open in the coming decades.

Coffee competitions are also becoming more popular, with local coffee shops and roasters in Almaty and Astana (Nur-Sultan) launching their own barista, latte art, and brewing contests. And while there are no formal Coffee Championships in Kazakhstan as of now, this could certainly change in the future.

Kazakhstan is certainly still far from becoming a major coffee-consuming country. Its specialty coffee sector is also still in its infancy, but that’s not to say that it won’t become more popular over the next few decades.

With a growing emphasis on coffee education and competitions, it will be interesting to see how Kazakhstan’s coffee culture evolves in the years ahead.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on Ukraine’s coffee scene.

Photo credit: Dalla Corte, Brew Battle, Kristine Karpeka

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How is coffee culture changing in Kazakhstan? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Primarily a tea-growing and drinking nation, coffee production is still relatively new to Nepal. According to the Nepalese government’s National Tea and Coffee Development Board (NTCDB), it was only between the 1980s and 1990s that coffee was grown on a commercial scale in the country.

The NTCDB reports that in the 2021/22 harvest season, Nepal produced 354.9 tonnes of coffee. While this is a decline from the record 530 tonnes produced in 2018/19, production volumes have been increasing in recent years.

The country grows high-quality arabica – and there is clear potential that specialty coffee production could increase, too.

Bhavi Patel is a dairy technologist and food and travel writer, who has been writing extensively about the global coffee industry for some years now.

In this article, she explores the Nepalese coffee sector, the challenges that local farmers face, and whether the country can grow more specialty coffee. 

You may also like our article on micro lots & Monsoon Malabar: India’s future as a coffee origin.

When was coffee introduced to Nepal?

Similar to India and other producing countries, coffee is not native to Nepal. It’s believed that in 1938, nomadic hermit Hira Giri brought coffee seeds from Burma (now known as Myanmar) back to Nepal.

Hira Giri is said to have planted the seeds in Aapchaur – a hill village in the Gulmi District. However, it took another thirty years for coffee production to start increasing in the country when the Nepalese government imported coffee seeds from India in 1968. 

Throughout the following decade, small-scale coffee production spread to other regions of Nepal, including Palpa, Syangja, Kaski, and Baglung.

Commercial coffee production in Nepal

By the mid-1980s, however, farmers started to grow coffee on a commercial scale. Between 1983 and 1984, the Nepal Coffee Company (NeCCo) was established in Manigram in the Rupandehi district. This meant local farmers could collectively process and dry mill their coffees for export, which helped to boost production volumes.

Throughout the 1990s and early 2000s, more and more farmers started to grow coffee. In response, Nepal’s Ministry of Agriculture launched the Coffee Development Programme, which provided technical and financial support to local producers.

Today, the International Coffee Organisation estimates that across 42 districts in the country, there are over 32,500 households involved in coffee production. Moreover, research from Specialty Coffee Nepal, a non-profit organisation which promotes Nepalese specialty coffee culture, says that some 45% of coffee farmers are women. 

The Kavrepalanchok district in eastern Nepal is the largest coffee-producing region in the country – spanning 273ha and producing more than 32 tonnes of coffee. The second-largest coffee-growing district is the Gulmi district in western Nepal, which spans 231ha and produces 27 tonnes of coffee.

Common varieties and processing techniques

Nepal’s climate and landscape make it ideal for growing arabica – mostly because of its high altitudes. In fact, many industry professionals say only arabica grows in Nepal.

Surya Dura is the founder and Managing Director at Lake City Coffee in Pokhara, Nepal.

“About 80% of the coffee produced in Nepal can be categorised as specialty-grade coffee,” he says. “In the 2022/23 harvest season, coffee production is expected to increase to about 400 tonnes.”

The most common varieties found in Nepal are Bourbon, Pacamara, Typica, Caturra, and Catimor – certainly an indication of high-quality coffee.

Most farmers use washed processing methods, however, more producers are experimenting with natural and honey processing techniques. In recent years, anaerobic natural fermentation has started to become more popular, too.

Generally speaking, Nepalese coffee has unique floral and chocolate flavour notes, with some distinct nuttier flavours. The biggest importers of the country’s coffee are Germany, Japan, the US, South Korea, and the Netherlands.

How do people drink coffee in Nepal?

Historically, Nepal is a tea-drinking country. However, coffee consumption has been steadily growing for some years.

“Nepalese baristas working in other countries help to promote homegrown coffee,” says a representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal. “More and more coffee events are also happening in the country, which also helps to bring people from across the value chain together, as well as drawing more attention to Nepalese coffee.”

In line with this, there are more specialty coffee roasters, coffee shops, and education facilities opening in Nepal. A representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal tells me that some of the most notable specialty coffee roasters in the country include Mount Brew Coffee, Nya No Specialty Coffee, Brewshala Coffee, and many more.

Deepak Paudel is a renowned coffee professional in Nepal. He is also the founder of the Pokhara Coffee Roastery.

“Because it is often easier and quicker to learn barista skills than any other profession in the coffee industry, more and more younger people show interest in the position,” he says. “Some of them are also moving to other countries to broaden their skills so they can return to Nepal after a few years and potentially open their own coffee shops.”

Deepak adds that many Nepalese baristas work in Middle Eastern countries or in Australia, where specialty coffee culture is particularly popular.

Popular drinks and brewing methods

As in many other countries, milk-based drinks – such as cappuccinos and lattes – are popular among consumers in Nepal.

However, in recent years, more and more Nepalese coffee shops are using manual pour over brewers. As part of this, we’re seeing more baristas push to get formal training to improve coffee quality, as well as roasters offering classes and educational courses.

Furthermore, coffee consumers in the country are also showing more interest in preparing café-quality drinks at home – with some taking part in coffee workshops. Companies like Brewing House distribute and supply equipment to coffee businesses and consumers alike.

Challenges in the Nepalese coffee sector

Although figures indicate a steady increase in Nepal’s coffee production volumes in the coming years, farmers in the country still face a number of challenges.

As with many other producing countries, Nepalese coffee farmers are dealing with the effects of climate change and a shortage of workers.

Global warming poses several concerning issues for Nepal’s coffee sector. For instance, unpredictable rainfall and frost often damage cherries and blossoms on branches, which can heavily affect quality and yields.

Moreover, the impact of climate change also increases coffee plants’ vulnerabilities to pests and diseases – in particular the white stem borer (Xylotrechus quadripes). 

The Gulmi district underwent a white stem borer epidemic in 2016, which severely affected coffee producers in the region. In some cases, farmers in Nepal have reported up to 60% loss in annual yields because of the insect, which lays its eggs in the branches of coffee plants. Eventually, the plant stops producing cherries and dies.

Even more concerning are the long term effects of climate change on Nepal. Research from Kunming University suggests that Nepal will see a significant shift in its agroclimatic zones over the next few decades. In turn, this could result in up to 72% of the country’s coffee-growing areas becoming unsuitable by 2050.

Labour issues

Many origin countries are currently experiencing labour shortages in their agricultural sectors, including for coffee.

The representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal explains that in Nepal, there are three major reasons for labour issues:

• Low wages
• Lack of formal training and education for farming best practices
• Waning interest in working in agriculture

“Another issue in the Nepalese coffee sector is workers moving to other countries for employment,” Surya says. 

Fluctuations in market prices also lead to further difficulties, which is why some farmers choose to join co-operatives. Co-ops provide a number of benefits to their members, including improving access to several markets, formal training programmes, and farming inputs.

Tulasi Raj Dhital is the founder and chairman at the Central Coffee Co-operative Union Ltd. (CCCU) in Kathmandu, Nepal. 

“The prices that farmers receive for cherry and parchment coffee are fixed by the NTCDB in coordination with other stakeholders, including co-operatives,” he explains. “This means that members know beforehand what they will be paid.

“This helps to ensure co-operative members get a fair price for their coffee,” he adds. “We also help producers understand new farming techniques that help to improve yields and plant health.”

How could the Nepalese coffee sector grow over the next decade?

Ultimately, if coffee production is to become more sustainable in Nepal, farmers need to know how to adapt to the effects of climate change by implementing more climate-smart agricultural practices. Intercropping coffee with other plants, such as bananas, could also be beneficial as they can provide much-needed shade cover.

“If we could plant more coffee using proper farming techniques, as well as planting new varieties, then Nepalese coffee production could grow on a much larger scale in the next decade,” Surya explains. “Improving knowledge, planting a wider range of varieties, and encouraging more young people to take part in coffee production are the three main ways we can grow the country’s specialty coffee sector.

“Specialty coffee production has just started in Nepal, and it’s still yet to gain a big market, but it could happen soon – Nepalese coffee has a lot of potential,” he adds.

The representative from Specialty Coffee Nepal tells me that measures to provide more formal training are already underway.

“Some agricultural institutions in the country have already started including a coffee-focused syllabus as part of their curriculum,” they say. “Farmers need to have proper training, as well as more awareness about planting, harvesting, and processing coffee in the best possible ways.”

Tulasi believes that the country’s government also needs to provide more support to coffee farmers.

“Strengthening and improving logistical and transport facilities would be immensely helpful to coffee farmers,” he tells me.

What about driving consumption?

When it comes to education, Deepak says that it also plays a key role. He explains that he is working hard to attract the attention of the Specialty Coffee Association, which he believes would help baristas and roasters, as well as coffee farmers, to gain better access to different training programmes and events.

In terms of coffee competitions, Deepak believes that Nepal could one day host its own National Barista Championship or AeroPress Championship.

“Nepal already has national champions, but they’re representing other countries,” he tells me. “There are many local coffee competitions taking place, so it shouldn’t be too long before we reach the world stage.”

It’s safe to say that there’s plenty of potential for Nepal to scale its coffee production. And with more people drinking specialty coffee than ever, the future certainly looks promising.

However, at the same time, it’s also clear that for both production and consumption to grow sustainably, Nepal’s coffee sector needs more support – especially when it comes to adapting to climate change.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the white stem borer: a threat to the Nepalese coffee industry?

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post Will Nepal produce more specialty coffee in the future? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

Most of India’s coffee-growing regions are located in the southern part of the country, with some smaller “non-traditional” areas in the northeast.

In the first week of December 2022, many producers in the south of India had already started harvesting their coffee, with plenty more set to begin in the weeks ahead. However, when Cyclone Mandous hit southern India, it caused a significant amount of damage to some of the country’s largest coffee-growing areas, including Tamil Nadu. 

The storm has resulted in a number of short-term problems for Indian coffee farmers, including damaging ripe cherries. However, more concerningly, the impact of the cyclone raises questions about how India’s coffee sector is able to cope with the medium and long-term effects of climate change.

Bhavi Patel is a dairy technologist and food and travel writer, who has been writing extensively about the global coffee industry for some years now.

In this article, she explores the impact of unpredictable weather on Indian coffee farmers, and how they are recovering following recent storms.  

You may also like our article on how coffee producers can prepare for unexpected weather.

An overview of coffee production in India

According to data from the Coffee Board of India, between 2020 and 2021, over 471,000ha of land was used to grow coffee in the country. India grows both robusta and arabica, with the former accounting for around 70% of the country’s coffee production.

Along the eastern coast and southern peninsula of the country, there are “traditional” and “non-traditional” coffee-growing areas. The three largest coffee-growing regions in the country are Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu, which are all located in the south.

Smaller non-traditional growing regions (which have been recently developed for coffee production) are also located in northeast India.

Smallholders account for up to 98% of the country’s coffee farmers. This means these producers own or work on smaller parcels of land – and can sometimes mean they have less access to infrastructure and financial resources, although this isn’t always the case.

The vast majority of Indian coffee is shade grown. This has a number of benefits, including allowing plants to grow in lower temperatures.

Cooler temperatures allow coffee cherries to ripen more slowly, which gives them more time to fully develop their sugars. In turn, this means that Indian coffee is generally fuller-bodied and has more complex flavours.

The impact of recent storms on India’s coffee harvest

Given its geographical location, India is prone to experiencing erratic and extreme weather conditions. Cyclones are among the most prominent.

In simple terms, a cyclone is a large mass of air which rotates around a core of low atmospheric pressure. Generally speaking, they cause intense winds and heavy rainfall, which can have a devastating effect on both urban and rural populations – the latter of which is especially vulnerable to the impact of climate change, as well as where agriculture is also a major source of income for many people.

On 10 December 2022, Cyclone Mandous – the third most intense tropical storm of the 2022 North Indian Ocean Cyclone season – hit north Tamil Nadu. This resulted in heavy rainfall and sustained winds up to 65km and 85km per hour during the rest of the month.

During mid-December 2022, certain areas of India’s southern coffee-growing regions received up to three inches of rainfall in a week, which caused a number of problems for coffee producers.

Insight from local producers

Sundaresh is a producer at Pathinipara Estate, Pampadumpara in the southern state of Kerala.

“We received about 2.5 inches of rainfall in just five days,” he says. “The total number of ‘floaters’ [unripe cherries which rise to the top of floatation tanks] and lighter dried cherries which split open on branches also increased from 7% to 20%, which is a huge loss for us.”

While high levels of rainfall during the flowering and ripening stages are critical to the healthy development of coffee cherries, it can have serious consequences when farmers are harvesting their coffee. It’s especially important for coffee drying, too – warm, dry conditions are best for this, and rainfall can cause difficulties.

Pranoy Thipaiah is the Managing Partner at the Kerehaklu Plantation in Karnataka. He tells me that over the past few years, erratic weather conditions have become more common.

“Cyclones and other extreme weather patterns are happening more regularly, so we need to be proactive in becoming more climate resilient,” he says.

Unexpected weather patterns can also affect the ripening stages in other ways, such as causing both ripe and unripe cherries to fall off plants or split open. 

Pranathi Shetty is a producer at Kolliberri the Coffee Farm in Karnataka. 

“The heavy rains from Cyclone Mandous accelerated the ripening process of many of our plants,” she says. “We had already finished harvesting about 30% of our plants when the cyclone hit, but then suddenly, all of the cherries ripened – even ones which were only semi-ripe a week ago.

“Because of the high humidity and rainfall, some cherries still attached to branches also split open,” she adds. 

What does this mean for coffee farmers?

D.S. Shravan is a partner at Kalledevarapura Coffee and Beanrove Coffee Roasters.

“We started harvesting about a fortnight before Cyclone Mandous hit,” he says. “The varieties which tend to ripen later on, such as Chandragiri, started to ripen much earlier because of the weather conditions.

“Moreover, a lot of cherries were splitting open, and they started to dry on the branches once the sun rose,” he adds.

Nisha Thomas is a producer at Anai Kadu – Pottamkulam C Estate. 

“Shorter flowering and ripening periods means that the cherries will absorb less nutrition,” she says.

Rohan Kuriyan is a producer at Balanoor Plantations. He explains that these issues can have serious consequences for Indian coffee farmers.

“The quantity of high-quality parchment reduces, the volume of cherry increases, and there will be a higher percentage of floaters,” he says. “This is disastrous for us economically, especially as the cost of farming inputs has increased this year, but also because we have already applied all the nutrients to the plants and carried out farming best practices, and now our plants are damaged.”

Navin Rajes is a producer at MSP Coffee in Yercaud, Tamil Nadu.

“We lost about 20% of our crop because of fallen cherries,” he says. “Picking fallen cherries increases labour costs by about five times, but not all of them can be processed.”

Ultimately, to avoid mould growth and attracting pests, farmers need to collect fallen cherries as soon as possible, which means they may need to invest more money to hire pickers. Moreover, pickers in India usually receive payment per kilogram of cherry. So, when cherries swell, they become heavier, which can mean that producers end up paying more money for lower yields.

Support for local producers

It’s clear that erratic and extreme weather conditions are causing a number of issues for some of India’s coffee farmers. Moreover, because of wet and humid conditions, it could lead to more challenges in the future.

To combat these issues, Indian coffee producers have taken a number of actions, including:

• Using large industrial fans to keep coffee cherries dry.
• Covering their harvested cherry and coffee plants to protect them from heavy rainfall.
• Hiring more labourers, so that farm workers can more regularly rake and spread out coffee, thereby helping it dry more quickly.

However, because most Indian coffee is shade grown, tree canopies help to provide natural protection from heavy rainfall and winds, as well as minimising soil erosion.

Navin, meanwhile, believes that improving the climate resilience of India’s coffee sector is essential to secure its future.

“We need to be able to adapt better to changing weather patterns,” he says. “This means reworking our regular farming practices, which can be a long and tedious process, but it’s the only way forward for farmers in our area.

“Investing in infrastructure more will serve to protect the harvested cherries, as well standardising post-harvest processing,” he adds.

Understanding the impact of climate change

According to the United Nations’ latest Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report, India is one of the most climate-vulnerable countries in the world. Estimates suggest that its exposure to more extreme weather has led to a 16% loss in GDP over the past two decades – and its agricultural sector is by far the most vulnerable to this.

“We need to focus on building better infrastructure to safeguard our coffee,” D.S. Shravan says. “We can’t undo the damage caused by climate change, but we can work towards being better prepared – it’s the only way forward.”

As part of this, one of the solutions could be developing and disseminating more climate-resilient varieties in the Indian coffee sector. Organisations such as World Coffee Research have recently launched new projects to provide more support on these efforts, but it’s clear that more work needs to be done.

“These varieties could help to improve yields in India as we cope with the effects of climate change,” Pranathi says.

The growing impact of climate change means that weather conditions in India – and other coffee-producing countries – will continue to become more erratic and extreme.

“Weather conditions like this are becoming a regular occurrence in many parts of the world,” Rohan says. “The monsoon seasons are getting longer, and unpredictable rainfall is becoming more common every year during harvests. 

“Research and collaboration is critical to the survival of the Indian coffee sector,” he concludes.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on why frost in Brazil in 2021 caused global coffee prices to rise.

Perfect Daily Grind

Want to read more articles like this? Sign up for our newsletter!

The post How are Indian coffee farmers recovering after recent storms? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.