Although some Geshas still fetch eye-watering prices – like the 96.5 point washed Carmen Estate Gesha which sold for US $10,005/kg at the 2023 Best of Panama auction – it’s not uncommon to see the variety served in more high-end coffee shops around the world. Technically, Gesha is no longer an “ultra-rare” coffee.

In more recent years, specialty coffee roasters and competitors alike have started looking elsewhere for more exclusive coffees – think Wush Wush, Sidra, eugenioides, and Pink Bourbon, to name a few.

So why do these varieties (or species) start to become more popular? And why do some of them eventually start to fade into the background?

To find out, I spoke to James Fairbrass, green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US.

You may also like our article questioning why some roasters are willing to spend more than US $10,000 per kg on Gesha.

Gesha: a variety for the ages?

Many of us know the story of Gesha – largely considered the first ultra-rare coffee variety. First found in the Gesha region of Ethiopia in the 1930s, the seeds were eventually transported to research centres in Kenya and Tanzania – where the variety was first recorded as “Geisha”. 

It was during the 1950s that CATIE (the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre) in Costa Rica acquired Gesha seeds. By the 1960s, Don Francisco Serracín of Don Pachi Estate had planted the variety in the western parts of the Boquete region of Panama.

Over the course of the next four decades, more and more Panamanian producers planted Gesha, but it took some time for the industry to fully recognise its excellent quality potential and desirable sensory profile.

The breakthrough moment came at the 2004 Best of Panama auction when Hacienda La Esmeralda set a then-world record of US $21 for the highest amount paid for a pound of coffee. 

In the years since, it’s a huge understatement to say this record has been broken, as we have seen buyers pay increasingly more for Gesha at a number of auctions:

• Panama’s Ninety Plus sold an undisclosed micro lot for US $10,000/kg (or US $4,535/lb) at its own private 2019 auction
• At the 2022 Lamastus Family Estates auction, a honey processed Gesha produced by Elida Estate sold for an unbelievable US $6,034/lb. This equates to more than US $12,068/kg – by far the most expensive coffee in the world
• The highest bid at the 2023 Best of Panama auction was US $10,005/kg for a washed Gesha. In total 1,250kg of coffee received US $1,085,275, which set a new record for the Best of Panama auction

Why did it become so popular?

Once you taste Gesha, it’s easy to understand why it has become one of the most sought-after exclusive varieties. Its uniquely floral flavours and tea-like body make it one of the most exceptional coffees available on the market. Additionally, Geshas also often receive 90 points or above when scored using the Specialty Coffee Association’s 100-point scale.

As a result, many baristas and coffee professionals have opted for Gesha at some of the most prestigious coffee competitions over the past two decades, including the World Barista Championship and World Brewers Cup.

Events such as these often have a direct influence on trends in the wider specialty coffee industry. As such, despite remaining relatively expensive, it’s become more common to see Gesha on the bar or retail shelves in some of the world’s more high-end coffee shops.

But has its popularity waned? 

We always see Gesha on stage at high-level coffee competitions. But its popularity at these events has noticeably dipped in recent years, particularly at the 2021 World Barista Championship and Brewers Cup where competitors were opting for even more exclusive varieties or species.

James Fairbrass is a green coffee buyer at Proud Mary Coffee in Portland, Oregon, US – a pioneering roaster which specifically focuses on more high-end coffees. 

He emphasises that when questioning whether Gesha has become less popular, looking exclusively at competitions doesn’t always provide us with the full picture.

“To look at barista competitions as an indicator for what’s popular in specialty coffee is quite a narrow view of the industry as a whole,” he tells me. “It’s a niche within a niche.”

James continues that in his experience, demand is actually higher than ever – with both roasters and consumers willing to pay more. 

“Just look at the vast majority of coffee auctions, from Cup of Excellence, to Best of Panama, to single producer private auctions,” he says. “The highest scoring – and often highest valued – coffees are usually Geshas.

“If the popularity of Gesha was waning, I’d argue that we would also see a decline in the amount of money that roasters around the world are willing to pay – and we’re simply not seeing that,” he adds.

The emergence of other ultra-rare varieties (and species)

Given that Gesha has become more widely available in specialty coffee shops in recent years, it’s fair to say we can’t really refer to it as an “ultra-rare” variety anymore.

We can, however, look at competition trends as an indication of which other exclusive varieties (or even species) could be on the rise.

Eugenioides

At the 2021 World Coffee Championships, this “forgotten” coffee species very much had the spotlight. Coffea eugenioides is a parent species of arabica, and is believed to have originated from east Africa.

Both the 2021 World Barista Champion (Diego Campos) and World Brewers Cup winner (Matt Winton) used eugenioides in their routines, with several other competitors also using it that same year. And there’s a reason for this: the species has a fascinating sensory profile – with strong notes of tropical fruit, high levels of sweetness, and a silky mouthfeel.

Although interest in eugenioides certainly remains, demand is still very low. Moreover, growing this species is especially challenging and yields are relatively small.

Sidra

Another variety that has quickly gained more popularity is Sidra. In 2019, Jooyeon Jeon used a Sidra from La Palma y el Tucán in her winning WBC routine. Likewise, Cole Torode – who placed third – used the exact same coffee.

Three years later, Sidra also won the World Barista Championship when Australian competitor Anthony Douglas used it in his routine.

The exact origins of Sidra are somewhat unknown. Many believe, however, that the variety originates from the Pichincha province in Ecuador. Claims about its origin vary from that it’s genetically similar to Ethiopian heirloom varieties to that it is the result of crossbreeding Typica with Bourbon.

But again, as with other more exclusive varieties and species, scaling production of Sidra is challenging – largely because it requires full-shade conditions and is highly susceptible to certain pests and diseases.

Pink Bourbon

During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety – including the winner, Boram Um. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile (similar to Panamanian and Ethiopian coffees), interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about its origins. Owner of Aromas del Sur Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia is often credited for helping to discover the variety. Recent research indicates Pink Bourbon is genetically linked to Ethiopian landrace varieties, but this study has not yet been scientifically verified.

The potential for more producers to grow Pink Bourbon is currently largely limited to Colombia, which means it will most likely take some time for production to scale.

Wush Wush

Originating from the Wushwush region of Ethiopia, the Wush Wush variety can now also be found in Colombia. With a fairly varied range of flavour notes (including blueberries, vanilla, maple, and lavender), this coffee became particularly popular a couple of years ago.

Proud Mary Coffee, meanwhile, has been buying Wush Wush from Nancy and Oscar Maca at Finca El Zafiro in Colombia since 2016.

“If people are still sleeping on Wush Wush, they need to wake up – it’s delicious!” James says.

In fact, Proud Mary sometimes sells Wush Wush as part of its “deluxe” range.

“We often see these coffees purchased for competitions or for special events, which is great, but it inevitably means that very few people actually get the opportunity to taste them,” he adds. “To sell more, we need to get more customers to taste them and realise that they are special coffees. And that’s where the deluxe menus in our cafés have had a huge impact.”

Laurina

In 2018, MAME Coffee co-founder Emi Fukahori used an anaerobically fermented Laurina for her winning World Brewers Cup routine. In partnership with Daterra (which produced the coffee), Emi helped to re-introduce specialty coffee to one of the most exciting varieties in some years.

As well as having a desirable flavour profile (including flavour notes of melon and citrus fruits), Laurina is also naturally low in caffeine. In turn, the variety has been a unique selling point for many roasters looking to offer higher-quality alternatives to decaf coffee. 

Laurina has definitely become more popular in recent years, so it’s not exactly “ultra-rare” in comparison to other varieties and species. But it’s still difficult to grow at scale – mostly because it contains less caffeine, which is a natural pest repellant.

Are ultra-rare varieties destined to rise and fall?

Competitions will always continue to have an impact on which rare varieties and species become popular in the wider specialty coffee sector. And with competitors always looking for the “best” coffee to use during their routines, it’s becoming more important for them to rediscover more unique coffees.

“As an industry, we’re always searching for something new and exciting,” James says. “Innovation has always been a part of the specialty coffee industry. From what we’re seeing, the varieties that people are looking to experience are a part of that mindset, too.”

However, considering that Gesha has seemingly fallen out of favour with competitors, is it inevitable that other varieties will face the same fate?

For most of these “rediscovered” coffees, there is still a lot of potential for them to remain in the spotlight. What’s more, outside of competitions, it’s likely that they will stay popular for even longer – but production of these coffees will remain low for the foreseeable future.

Based on James’ experience at Proud Mary Coffee, demand for Gesha continues to be high – so it’s possible that the same will apply to other ultra-rare varieties.

“We’re selling more Gesha than we ever have before,” he asserts. “Both as pour overs in our coffee shops and through our e-commerce platforms.” 

The impact of experimental processing methods

In conjunction with a growing interest in more exclusive and ultra-rare coffees, there has been a rise in more experimental and advanced processing techniques. These methods can have a huge impact on flavour and mouthfeel, and open up new possibilities when it comes to experiencing coffee.

They can, however, often mask the innate characteristics of coffee, which can pose challenges when it comes to more delicate varieties and species.

“As an industry, we have spent the better part of the last 25 years telling our customers that origin, variety, terroir, and processing are all important – that these are the things that make coffee special,” James explains. “With the rise in popularity of experimental processing, I worry that we’re going to lose a lot of that.”

The range of ultra-rare and exclusive coffees is continuing to grow. And if Best of Panama prices are anything to go by, some roasters are still willing to pay a premium to secure them. 

“We’re going to continue buying as much deluxe, rare, and exotic coffees as we can, and we’ll find ways to sell them,” James concludes.

But whether these varieties and species will retain their levels of popularity – or eventually begin to fade – remains to be seen.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article exploring whether coffee competitions are moving away from Gesha.

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In fact, when it comes to processing methods in particular, it doesn’t take long to realise just how much specialty coffee producers draw inspiration from winemaking. We’re seeing the influence of the wine industry more and more in recent years, with producers using advanced processing methods more often – and thereby continuing to expand the range of flavours we can experience.

To learn more, I spoke to Camilo Merizalde, founder and director of the Santuario Project, and Carlos Pola, owner of the San Antonio, Las Brisas, and San Roque farms in El Salvador. Read on to learn what they had to share.

You may also like our article comparing coffee & alcohol production.

How has coffee processing changed in recent years?

For many specialty coffee professionals and enthusiasts, experimental processing is one of the industry’s most exciting topics. Although most coffee is processed using the three “traditional” methods – natural, washed, and honey – more advanced and novel techniques have been appearing at pace over the past few years.

We’re all well aware of how far coffee processing has evolved recently. But fewer of us may realise that winemaking has been key to this level of innovation.

For example, 2015 World Barista Champion Saša Šestić famously showcased carbonic maceration during his winning performance. He used the Sudan Rume variety which quickly caught people’s attention for its intense, fruity aromas, and heightened sweetness.

Saša’s WBC performance instantly thrusted carbonic maceration into the spotlight, and helped to generate even more interest in experimental processing. He wasn’t alone, however.

Camilo Merizalde is the founder and director of the Santuario Project, a specialty coffee producer and exporter with farms and wet mills in Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil, and Mexico. Together with Saša, he developed the carbonic maceration process.

Similarly, 2019 World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion Dan Fellows won using a frozen fermented Pacamara coffee. Like Saša, Dan collaborated with another coffee processing expert: Carlos Pola.

Exploring the influence of winemaking

Wine and coffee share several fundamental similarities. First and foremost, their unique sensory qualities are influenced by several factors, including:

• Terroir
• Fermentation
• Processing methods

Terroir describes a group of location-specific environmental conditions that include climate, terrain, soil, farming practices, and the effects of local culture and heritage. Although winemakers first coined the term centuries ago, it’s now commonly used in the specialty coffee sector.

However, the biggest similarities between winemaking and coffee production are found in processing methods.

“So many of the processing methods we use in coffee are the result of trends in winemaking, as well as extensive research about the anatomy of the coffee cherry and all the ways we can modify and accentuate flavour and quality,” Camilo says.

Carlos tells me has been experimenting with carbonic maceration and cold fermentations since 2018. He believes that because winemaking is such an ancient profession, the coffee industry can learn so much from it.

“The characteristics of the fruits are similar and, most importantly, winemaking dates back centuries,” he explains. “The practices and protocols used in the wine industry can be replicated in the much newer specialty coffee sector.”

He adds that processing methods like carbonic maceration and cryo-maceration – both influenced by winemaking – help his coffee to stand out in an increasingly competitive market.

“These techniques have helped us differentiate our coffees through creating extraordinary sensory attributes and higher scores,” he explains. “In our experience, it helps us to enhance flavour profile and prolong the shelf life of coffee.”

Fermentation is key

Fermentation is a chemical reaction that uses enzymes to break substances down into simpler ones. Typically – as mostly in the case of anaerobic fermentation – it requires a total absence of oxygen and the presence of yeast or bacteria, sugar, and heat. 

In alcohol production, enzyme-producing yeasts break sugars down into ethanol and other compounds, which gives different alcoholic drinks their distinctive flavours and aromas. 

All processing methods involve some level of fermentation, but not all of them have an impact on sensory profile. Some producers ferment coffee to more easily remove the seeds from the skin and mucilage (like washed processing), while others will use fermentation to heavily influence tasting notes and mouthfeel.
When carried out under controlled conditions, fermentation can produce a highly diverse range of flavours in coffee.

Anaerobic fermentation

Anaerobic fermentation always occurs in a low-oxygen environment. Typically, producers de-pulp coffee (although not always) before sealing it in airtight tanks or other vessels. A valve is also used to expel gases created through the fermentation process.

In turn, this method substantially alters the final sensory profile. In most cases, the flavours tend to be more intense, highly complex, and rather unconventional – especially compared to washed coffees.
As a result of these more unique flavour profiles, anaerobic fermentation is becoming more common. Some do believe, however, that this process can lead to inconsistent results if variables aren’t controlled tightly enough.

Lactic fermentation

La Palma y El Tucan, a farm in Cundinamarca, Colombia, is widely believed to have championed the lactic fermentation process. Technically, it’s a variation of anaerobic fermentation because it also occurs in a low-oxygen environment. 

After sorting coffee cherries, producers seal them in tanks. The anaerobic environment encourages the growth of lactobacillus cultures – the same bacteria used in dairy production – which convert sugars into a lactic acid solution. 

Producers often kick-start the process by inoculating the tank with a starter culture. However, like other complex and extended fermentation methods, lactic fermentation can be difficult to execute successfully.

To avoid this, some producers add a salt solution during the processing stage to control the rate and level of fermentation. If done correctly, the process produces a very sweet coffee with a medium-to-high body, with more fruity and yoghurt-like flavours and mouthfeel.

Yeast-assisted fermentation

Yeast application (also referred to as yeast inoculation) is the processing method that is perhaps most directly influenced by winemaking. Humans have been using yeast to ferment food and drink for thousands of years.

Under the right conditions, certain yeasts will grow directly on the skin of coffee cherries. However, it’s important to differentiate between spontaneous (wild) fermentation and commercial inoculation. 

Like winemakers, coffee producers can choose whether to allow yeasts to develop naturally or to intentionally add them. There are advantages to both methods, so the decision often comes down to which method is most accessible and sustainable. In other cases, it’s more about achieving a specific outcome in terms of flavour and quality.

Similar to lactic fermentation, producers begin the commercial inoculation process by introducing a starter culture to the coffee cherries. Typically, producers will use Saccharomyces cerevisiae, which is a type of yeast that works especially well for processing coffee. 

Spontaneous fermentation, meanwhile, happens much more slowly. It’s also less predictable, which means stricter quality control methods are essential to achieving good results.

Carbonic maceration and winemaking

Probably the most famous processing technique borrowed from winemaking – especially in specialty coffee – is carbonic maceration. In the 1930s, wine producers in France’s Beaujolais region helped the method become more well known.

Wine from this region is generally made using the Gamay grape, which results in light red wines with pronounced bitterness and acidity. Carbonic maceration softens the grapes, giving the wine a sweeter and fruitier bouquet.

Like other experimental processing methods, carbonic maceration uses fermentation to amplify certain flavour attributes, or even introduce new ones.

Firstly, producers de-pulp the coffee cherries before sealing them in plastic or stainless steel tanks. Next, they flush the tanks with carbon dioxide. This forces oxygen out through a one-way valve. 

During fermentation, the same valve allows other gases to escape. Finally, after a predetermined period of time, the producer places the coffee on raised beds so it can dry. Here, it undergoes further fermentation – similarly to natural processed coffees.

“Carbonic maceration gives us the opportunity to delve deeper into more complex flavours,” Camilo says.

However, he notes that while carbonic maceration is inspired by the winemaking process, there are some notable differences.

“One of the most notable is the concentration of the mucilaginous layer on both coffee cherries and grapes, as well as the microbial composition of both,” he adds. “We personally believe that the coffee industry is still lightyears behind the wine industry in terms of processing.”

What does carbonic macerated coffee taste like?

In a previous article for PDG, Saša explains that he uses carbonic maceration to “target specific microorganisms by controlling different variables during fermentation”.

“These variables include tank temperature, environment, time, yeast and bacteria esters, and many more,” he elaborated. “Doing so allows us to elevate the flavour profile of the coffee, raising its cup score and changing its taste in a specific way.”

One style of carbonic maceration encourages the growth of microorganisms like Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, which both produce acetoin. Saša says that this gives the coffee a creamy, buttery mouthfeel.

The microorganisms present in the fermentation tank break down the sugars in the cherries more slowly. This results in coffees with complex flavours – often described as bright and winey.

In Panama, where producers consistently grow high-scoring specialty coffees, innovation in carbonic maceration is a growing trend. Producers say the resulting coffees are more layered and complex than those processed using other methods. They also have higher levels of acidity and a wider range of flavours and aromas.

Considering humans have been drinking wine for much longer than coffee, winemaking has left an indelible legacy on coffee production. As more coffee producers experiment with methods like carbonic maceration, it’s likely that the industry will continue to lean on winemaking for inspiration.

“While we have been experimenting with wine for thousands of years, coffee processing with similar fermentation techniques has been around for just a few years, so there is much work to be done and many more years of experimenting,” Carlos concludes. 

“In the process, the possibilities for better and different profiles in coffee are enormous.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on experimental coffee processing in Panama.

Photo credits: Camilo Merizalde, Carlos Pola, Finca Campo Hermoso Quindio, Edwin Noreña

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One of these methods is lactic fermentation: a process championed by the innovative La Palma y El Tucán in Colombia. Classified as anaerobic fermentation, the process involves creating an ideal environment for the growth of lactobacillus cultures. This usually results in a creamier mouthfeel, as well as more yoghurt-like flavours.

So considering how lactic fermentation can impact sensory profiles, it’s also fair to assume that these coffees need to be roasted and brewed in different ways to highlight their best characteristics.

To find out more, I spoke with Felipe Sardi, co-founder of La Palma y El Tucán, and Christopher Feran, coffee industry consultant and expert. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article exploring trends in experimental coffee processing.

What is lactic fermentation?

Although lactic fermentation is a relatively novel processing method in the specialty coffee sector, it’s certainly not new to the food industry. For centuries, professional chefs and home cooks alike have been using fermentation to preserve different foods – or even enhance flavour. Some common lacto-fermented foods include:

• Pickles
• Kimchi
• Sauerkraut
• Yoghurt
• Certain cheeses
• Kombucha
• Sourdough bread
• Specific types of hot sauce

So let’s break down what lactic fermentation is. Essentially, it’s a type of anaerobic fermentation, which means no oxygen is present during the process. The dominant microorganisms are Lactic Acid Bacteria (LAB), which thrive in oxygen-free environments. LAB converts simple carbohydrates into lactic acid – as well as carbon dioxide, ethanol, and sometimes acetic acid.

Felipe Sardi is the co-founder and CEO of La Palma y El Tucán in the mountains of Zipacon, Cundinamarca in Colombia. In 2019, seasoned coffee professional World Barista Champion Jooyeon Jeon used a Sidra coffee from La Palma y El Tucán in her winning routine, which helped to cement its position as a pioneering specialty coffee farm.

He explains how they developed their own lactic fermentation process.

“After depulping the cherries, the coffee is sealed in tanks to remove (or significantly decrease) the presence of oxygen during the fermentation process,” he says. “This allows facultative anaerobic lactic acid bacteria like Leuconostoc mesenteroides – which is naturally present on the beans – to rapidly multiply and consume the sugars in the mucilage. This produces lactic acid. 

“Compared to natural processing, up to 90% of glucose and fructose are removed from the beans,” he adds. “The drop in pH level from the increase in lactic acid also triggers enzymatic reactions, which can impact flavour, too. We closely monitor variables like temperature and pH at multiple stages to control fermentation.”

Finding the best method

In specialty coffee, there are two primary lactic fermentation methods that producers currently use: either inoculating with a specific LAB starter or using a 2-3% salt brine. Both are implemented in a low-oxygen environment under strict control to promote healthy LAB growth. 

Christopher Feran is a coffee consultant, green buyer, roaster, and lapsed Q-grader. He explains in detail how these processes work. 

“LAB are halotolerant or halophilic, which means they grow or thrive in high-saline conditions,” he says. “This obviously gives these bacteria an advantage compared to microbes that are halophobic or require oxygen.

“I believe the best method for lactic fermentation is the one that achieves the desired result in the most reliable, safe, and economical way,” he adds. “In most cases, using a 2% salt brine is sufficient to produce a good cup profile. But for producers who have the resources, inoculation is certainly the most reliable and repeatable method.”

Felipe tells me how La Palma y El Tucán developed its lactic fermentation processing method in a way that highlights the farm’s unique terroir.

“We found that strict anaerobic conditions and extended fermentation times beyond 80 hours produce the best results,” he says. “We also adapted our process based on field observations. For example, lowering temperature will inhibit fungal growth which can create undesirable flavours.”

What’s the impact on coffee flavour and mouthfeel?

When drinking lactic fermented coffees, there are notable differences in flavour and texture. Research has shown that using LAB during processing will produce more distinctive floral, fruity, creamy, and buttery flavour notes, as well as a creamier mouthfeel. 

“Based on our experience, lactic fermentation can create more intense sweetness,” Felipe says. “Lactic fermented coffees also have more notes of chocolate and butter, and a more velvety body. 

“The high lactic acid content contributes directly to the coffee’s sensory profile,” he adds. “These are highly distinctive flavours which aren’t typically found in conventionally processed coffees.”

Christopher, meanwhile, points out that there are many types of lactic fermentation. Each one can influence the final cup profile and overall sensory experience in different ways.

“For example, you can ferment cherries before using a pulped lactic fermentation process, or implement a carbonic maceration-style processing method,” he says. “It’s difficult to generalise lactic fermentation.

“The results vary depending on how you develop your processing technique,” Christopher adds. “Salt-lactic fermentations using dried cherries tend to result in brighter and more complex coffees with a creamier mouthfeel. In comparison, pulped lactic fermentations usually produce brighter and more floral and tropical flavours.”

How to roast & brew lacto-fermented coffees

Roast profile development is based on a wide range of variables, but processing methods are one of the most prominent. 

Felipe believes lactic fermented coffees can benefit from roast profiles which enhance sweetness and chocolate flavours. 

“Pour over brewing methods can also help highlight more of the unique and subtle flavours,” he explains. “Since these processing methods are so novel, leveraging specialist and customised roasting and brewing techniques is useful.”

Why interest in these coffees is increasing

Like other processing methods, lactic fermentation can provide certain benefits to some producers. For instance, one study from 2016 showed that these techniques can improve the fermentation process itself – as well as increase quality and cup score.

“The complex flavours and aromas created during lactic fermentation seem to have the potential to improve quality, but it requires in-depth knowledge and a lot of trial-and-error to achieve desirable results and no defects,” Felipe tells me. “When done properly, we have found that lactic fermentation can increase the quality of coffee which has more unique flavours.

“However, the process may not improve the flavour profile for more traditional coffee drinkers,” he adds.

On another note, Christopher tells me the lactic fermentation process isn’t a be-all and end-all solution to improving coffee quality.

“I don’t believe that processing is a silver bullet,” he says. “If a producer is using other methods, lactic fermentation can be a cleaner and safer alternative, but I would argue that the process differentiates a coffee rather than improves it.”

Will lactic fermented coffees continue to be popular in the future?

Lactic fermentation and other experimental processing methods will undoubtedly continue to progress and evolve. As a result, they are sure to have a positive impact on the specialty coffee sector – and remain popular, too.

“Many lactic fermentations are easy to execute and are lower risk than other advanced processing methods,” Christopher tells me. “Additionally, they require more simple and widely available materials, such as sea salt, so it’s likely they will grow in popularity.”

While Felipe agrees, he adds that lacto-fermented coffees will largely remain a more niche segment of the specialty coffee market.

“As processing techniques improve and consumer awareness increases, lactic coffees certainly seem poised to become more popular among specialty coffee enthusiasts who are looking for new experiences,” he says. “However, given the complexity and the degree of control required, these techniques are likely to be a smaller part of the wider market.

“But for producers who are focused on innovation and creating distinctive flavours, lactic fermentation offers a promising path forward,” he concludes.

It takes plenty of dedication, knowledge, and time to carry out lactic fermentation to the highest standards. But Felipe and Christopher both believe these processing methods are some of the most reliable and economical ways to change coffee flavour and mouthfeel.

When done right, there are clear advantages to implementing such techniques. Without the right resources and level of knowledge, however, producers may struggle to see as much success as they would hope to.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on coffee roasting and experimental processing methods.

Photo credits: La Palma y El Tucan

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This includes pour over brewing methods. In recent years, we have seen some major changes in how coffee shops and competitors prepare pour overs – largely with an overarching focus on controlling as many extraction variables as possible.

In line with this, a much wider range of manual and automatic pour over brewers are now available – with some models designed to impact brewing variables in different ways.

So it’s clear that pour over coffee is changing. But what might the future hold?

To find out, I spoke to Dušan Matičič, the head roaster at GOAT STORY, Carlos Medina, a barista and the 2023 World Brewers Cup Champion, and Erik Freudenberg, the 2023 German Brewers Cup Champion. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on the future of espresso.

A brief history of manual pour over coffee

Around the world, filter coffee is immensely popular. In some countries and regions, consumption of filter coffee dates back centuries:

• In Latin American countries like Costa Rica, many people still use traditional wooden chorreador brewers and cloth filters (or bolsitas)
• Touba coffee (or Sufi coffee), which is prepared similar to pour over, is common in Senegal and other West African countries

One of the precursors in the evolution of pour over brewing, however, was the launch of the Melitta brand in the early 1900s. After Melitta Bentz fashioned a pour over brewer using a brass pot and a filter, the Melitta brand became one of the first to start selling commercially-available paper filters. This, of course, revolutionised modern pour over coffee.

Following this, many other companies started to design different variations of manual pour over brewers. In 1941, German scientist Peter Schlumbohm invented the iconic Chemex – which was named “one of the best-designed products of modern times” by the Illinois Institute of Technology.

Other notable manual brewers include the Hario V60 and Kalita Wave. In 2004, Japanese company Hario designed its revolutionary V60 brewer, which quickly became more popular in specialty coffee following the 2010 World Brewers Cup.

The flat bottom Kalita Wave, meanwhile, was officially launched in 2010 by Japanese brand Kalita Co. – which also helped to further elevate pour over brewing methods.

How has pour over changed?

Over the past decade or so, the number of manual pour over brewers available on the market has only continued to grow. Although the V60 still remains one of the most popular, specialty coffee shops are now using a wider range of manual brewers – including the Origami, GINA, Graycano, and Orea, to name a few.

Given the increasing diversity of pour overs, brewing methods are also changing. One of the most noticeable developments has been a much bigger emphasis on precision and controlling as many extraction variables as possible.

Effectively, specialty coffee has become more “scientific” about brewing filter coffee (and espresso), which has helped to deepen our understanding of how certain brewing variables impact extraction. 

Erik, who also works part-time as a barista and is an avid home brewer, explains how people have become more willing to experiment with different variables.

“We now know more about how many different brewing variables affect the extraction of flavour, so we therefore feel more comfortable to play around with them,” he says.

The influence of advanced processing methods

Since the early 2000s, specialty coffee has developed a clear preference for single origin coffees – which has thereby influenced filter brewing methods.

In more recent years, however, the increasing popularity of experimental processing methods is also changing how we prepare pour overs.

Dušan roasts coffee for GOAT STORY, which manufactures the GINA coffee maker. This brewer – which was famously used by 2018 World Brewers Cup Champion Emi Fukahori – utilises three different extraction methods (including full immersion, pour over, and cold drip) by turning a valve located at the bottom.

“When I look back to six years ago, as an industry, we were much more focused on clean and crisp washed coffees,” he says. “Pour overs are still the preferred brewing method to best highlight these characteristics. 

“Today, however, the diversity of processing methods is much wider,” he adds. “This helps to bring coffees to life. With coffees that have more intense flavour profiles, you need to fine-tune your brewing recipes.

“Generally speaking, it’s simply a matter of how to tone down or enhance complexity,” Dušan continues. “This can be done in so many different ways, from trying different pour over brewers to experimenting with different grind sizes.”

Carlos agrees, and explains how he tweaks his pour over recipes based on the processing method used.

“Heavily fermented coffees are more sensitive, so you have to adapt your recipe to fit,” he tells me. “For instance, I have roasted and brewed coffees which have been fermented for up to 720 hours. In this case, I had to grind coarser and use a lower brewing temperature to avoid extracting undesirable flavours.”

Blends

Despite single origins dominating the specialty coffee market, blends have made something of a comeback in recent years. While we mostly associate blends with flavours more suited to traditional coffee drinkers, there has been renewed interest in higher-quality blends – including at competitions.

This was most noticeable at the 2021 World Barista and Brewers Cup Championships:

• The 2021 World Brewers Cup Champion Matt Winton used a 60:40 blend of naturally processed Coffea eugenioides from Finca Inmaculada in Colombia and washed Catucai from Hacienda La Florida in Peru
• Andrea Allen and Hugh Kelly, who respectively placed second and third at the 2021 WBC, both used blends which included eugenioides
• Additionally, 2022 WBC Japanese competitor Takayuki Ishitani – who placed fourth – used a blend of robusta and an anaerobic fermented Gesha in his routine

Simply put, the process of developing blends has become much more thoughtful and deliberate to create new flavour experiences.

“Single origin coffees are a great way to showcase how terroir and processing impact the final cup profile, but blends can create synergy between different coffees and offer something truly unique,” Carlos says.

Considering that different coffees have different solubility levels, blends certainly impact pour over recipes – meaning we need to tweak brewing variables accordingly to achieve the best results.

Erik used a blend for his 2023 WBrC routine, saying it created one of the most memorable coffees he’s ever tasted.

“I think we’ve reached a point where single origins have become so good by themselves that in order to create an even better experience, we have started to blend multiple exceptional coffees together,” he says. “Blends can shift our perception of flavour altogether.”

Different brewers, different extraction

When preparing pour overs, the emphasis is very much on the “experience” of making coffee – similar to the Slow Food culinary movement. Essentially, brewing a manual pour over allows you to take your time and become fully immersed in the process.

With so many brewers now available, coffee shops, consumers, and competitors have to change their pour over recipes accordingly to get the best results. Factors such as the shape, design, and material of different manual brewers all influence how coffee is extracted. 

“Each model of brewer will have an effect on extraction – whether it’s enhancing certain qualities or making it easier to brew specific coffees,” Carlos says. 

For instance, a brewer’s ridge or groove design (as well as the number of ridges it has) will significantly impact flow rate. The V60 has spiral-shaped ridges which help to prevent the filter from sticking to the walls of the brewer – and thereby ensure a more even flow rate.

In comparison, the Orea V3 brewer only has four ridges at the base – which means the flow rate is much quicker. To get the best results between these two brewers, it’s important to change several brewing variables, such as grind size, water temperature, and level of agitation, to name a few.

The role of automation

Although manual pour over brewers have evolved significantly in recent years, it’s been hard to ignore how automation has shaped filter coffee brewing for the long term.

Alongside the more scientific approach to pour over extraction, more and more coffee shops have started to leverage the power of automation to serve high-quality filter coffee.

Automated pour over brewing systems can manage a number of variables – such as brew time, temperature, and water dispersion – much more precisely than humans. 

“In a coffee shop, automated brewers definitely have an edge on baristas,” Erik says.

Not only does this help baristas to free up more of their time and focus on other tasks, it massively increases the consistency of extraction. In turn, whether you embrace it or not, automation has played a key role in improving the quality of pour over coffee.

Similarly, now more than ever, consumers are also turning to automated brewing solutions at home. We’ve seen more and more companies and brands design high-quality automated pour over systems with a number of features, such as prewetting and blooming functions.

How could pour over coffee evolve in the future?

Given the rapid rate of innovation in specialty coffee, pour over brewing could change in many ways in the years to come.

“We are seeing a growing interest in pour overs,” Dušan says. “People are continuing to explore new ways of brewing, including how to highlight different flavours.”

Carlos believes as the industry’s knowledge of extraction continues to deepen, filter coffee will continue to evolve.

“From automated to hybrid to no-bypass brewers, pour over coffee is sure to evolve to become so much more,” he says.

Erik also agrees, saying: “We will see more super-specialist tools, brewers, and techniques, and we will also gain an even better understanding of the impact of different brewers on coffee flavour.

“I think we will also become more resourceful in our quest to perfect brewing coffee,” he says. “I simply hope that filter coffee becomes even better in the future.”

Pour over coffee has come a long way over the past century or so. And with an ever-growing range of manual and automatic brewers – as well as evolving recipes and a deeper understanding of extraction variables – it’s sure to keep on changing.

“There are so many varieties waiting to be rediscovered or cultivated, so the future is bright for filter coffee,” Dušan concludes. “And with the impact of climate change potentially leading to the emergence of new origins, this could bring a new dimension to pour over coffee.”

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the history of manual brewing methods.

Photo credits: Sinan Musly, SCA Germany, Specialty Coffee Association, World Coffee Events, GOAT STORY

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During the final round of 2023 World Barista Championship, we saw two competitors use the Pink Bourbon variety. Known for its slight pink hue and complex flavour profile, interest in this variety has been growing for some time now.

There is, however, very little verified information available about the origins of Pink Bourbon – which of course restricts our understanding of this unique variety.

But given that more and more roasters and coffee shops have started to offer this coffee in recent years, does it have potential to reach the same heights as Gesha or other similar varieties?

To find out more, I spoke to Rodrigo Sanchez Valencia, a producer at Finca Monteblanco and Aromas del Sur, Boram Um, co-owner of Um Coffee Co. and Fazenda Um, and Isaiah Sheese, owner of Archetype Coffee. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article on the Ombligon variety.

What is Pink Bourbon & where does it come from?

Like many other new or “rediscovered” arabica varieties (or even species), the exact origins of Pink Bourbon are unknown.

Rodrigo is a producer and the owner of Aromas del Sur – a co-operative which unifies all the farms he owns and manages. He is often credited for helping to discover the Pink Bourbon variety.

“As part of a joint effort with importers and exporters that we were working with at the time, the Aromas del Sur team found Pink Bourbon in 2013,” he says. “We believe it’s native to southern Huila in Colombia.”

According to Rodrigo, the variety first appeared in the San Adolfo area of the Acevedo municipality in Huila during the 1980s.

“There is no verified information about its specific origins,” he tells me. “When coffee leaf rust (la roya) first appeared in the region in the 1980s, more producers started to grow this variety unknowingly because it was resistant to the disease – and was highly adaptable to its environment and produced higher yields.

“We were one of the first producers to grow Pink Bourbon as a commercial crop, so we set out to find other farmers who were growing smaller quantities and were unaware of its quality potential,” he adds.

Dispelling prior claims about Pink Bourbon

It’s common to hear that Pink Bourbon is a natural hybrid of Red and Yellow Bourbon varieties. However, recent research is likely to have disproved this theory.

In late September 2023, Café Imports published an article stating that after conducting genetic testing in partnership with RD2 Vision, Pink Bourbon is likely to have come from an Ethiopian landrace variety.

However, it’s important to note that this research has not been scientifically verified, so the variety’s exact origins and heritage can’t be known for certain.

Growing Pink Bourbon

Even in optimal environmental conditions, Pink Bourbon is challenging to grow successfully. Not only do producers need to meticulously maintain plants, they must also isolate them from other varieties to ensure successful cross-pollination.

Rodrigo, meanwhile, says Pink Bourbon’s resilience and productivity are beneficial. 

“To date, we’re not aware of any diseases which it’s susceptible to,” he explains.

Boram is the 2023 World Barista Champion, and used Pink Bourbon from his farm in Brazil in his winning routine. He tells me his experience growing this variety is very different to Rodrigo’s – possibly due to different terroirs in Brazil and Colombia.

“Pink Bourbon is very susceptible to certain diseases and fungus, which is why we grow it in a controlled and safe environment,” he says.

Isaiah Sheese placed fourth at the 2023 World Barista Championship, and also used Pink Bourbon. He says he has noticed subtle differences in the variety’s physical characteristics.

“Some cherries are longer and thinner like Gesha or Ethiopian landrace varieties,” he explains. “However, we have also seen cherries which are rounder, and therefore more dense – which could be a result of growing at a higher elevation.”

One of the variety’s most distinctive traits, of course, is its slight pink hue.

“The cherries are orange or salmon-coloured,” Rodrigo says. “The plants also have more elongated leaves, which are light green or yellow-green in colour. Newer leaves start off as more orange coloured.”

What does it taste like?

Pink Bourbon not only stands out for its strikingly-coloured cherries, but also for its sweet and complex flavour profile.

“It’s usually more acidic – like citrus fruit flavours – with delicate notes of white florals and honey-like sweetness,” Boram says.

Isaiah agrees, telling me: “Pink Bourbon usually cups similarly to washed Ethiopians or Panamanian Geshas – with floral, pink lemonade, honeysuckle, and jasmine flavour notes, and a very elegant silky texture.”

Rodrigo, meanwhile, often picks up more tropical tasting notes.

“It’s a very complex coffee, with flavours of peach, papaya, and melon, as well as more floral notes such as jasmine, rose, and green tea,” he says. “It’s a very balanced coffee in terms of body and acidity.” 

Using different processing techniques to highlight certain flavours

Similar to other varieties, choosing specific processing methods can help make Pink Bourbon stand out even more.

Rodrigo explains he has found that Pink Bourbon cherries contain higher amounts of sugar (or have a higher Brix level) than other varieties, which makes them adaptable to different processing methods.

“We can use a diverse range of processing techniques, ranging from conventional methods to more unique processes, such as cold fermentations and thermal shock,” he tells me. “Personally, in terms of improving complexity, I prefer using cold fermentation.”

For Boram, the variety’s stand-out flavour profile worked well with anaerobic fermentation – which led him to choose it for his WBC routine.

“I’ve found that anaerobic fermentation processing methods bring out its best potential, but the key factor is drying the cherries properly,” he says. “We slowly dry the coffee in a temperature and humidity-controlled dark room with no UV light.

“We then manage to highlight more of the sweet floral and honey notes,” he adds. “Pink Bourbon is a fairly new variety to Brazil, so it’s important that more producers try growing it, too.”

For his World Barista Championship performance, Isaiah used a Pink Bourbon sourced by one producer (Lucy Galindez of Finca Bella Vista in Colombia), and then processed by another (Diego Bermudez of Finca El Paraiso). Diego is well-known for creating the thermal shock process.

“We have always loved fully washed Pink Bourbon,” Isaiah says. “But when we tasted it using Diego’s two-stage thermal shock fermentation, it elevated the flavour notes even more. We were blown away.”

Roasting Pink Bourbon

With roasters offering more and more unique varieties, they often need to tweak their roast profiles accordingly to get the best results – and Pink Bourbon is no exception.

Isaiah worked with his team at Archetype Coffee to roast his competition coffee, which was roasted for espresso. 

“Compared to washed Pink Bourbon, the two-stage thermal shock processing method definitely changes how this coffee reacts to heat when roasting – it’s similar to a natural process coffee,” he says. “While washed coffees generally require a more aggressive and upfront approach, you need to be more gentle when you start roasting thermal shock processed coffee.

“What’s more, we used the Stronghold S7 to roast my competition coffee, which is a very different style of roaster than a traditional drum machine because it also includes a halogen-powered heat source,” he adds.

Boram also had to adjust his roasting technique for his Brazilian Pink Bourbon – which he explains was largely because of different climatic conditions.

“Coffees in Brazil are usually grown at lower altitude in a different kind of terroir, so they tend to be less dense,” he tells me. “So we roasted the coffee for longer using lower temperatures to make sure it developed properly.”

Could the market for Pink Bourbon grow in the coming years?

It’s clear the market potential for Pink Bourbon is huge, with interest in this variety steadily rising year after year. But considering that some farmers face a number of challenges when it comes to scaling production, we may not get to see the variety in as many coffee shops and roasteries as we would like in the coming years.

Rodrigo, however, is hopeful that Pink Bourbon has a permanent place in the Colombian specialty coffee sector.

“Pink Bourbon will remain one of the most important varieties in our market,” he says. “We are proud to be the pioneers of growing this coffee.”

Boram also believes the success Rodrigo and other Colombian producers have experienced with this variety could help increase its production – as well as in other countries.

“Given that Colombia produces such high-quality Pink Bourbon, I hope this will increase peoples’ interest in this variety, including in Brazil,” he concludes.

Specialty coffee is always on the lookout for the latest “it” variety, and now more than ever, there are many options to choose from. 

Pink Bourbon is eye-catching for a number of reasons, including its complex and desirable flavour profiles. As a result, there is certainly potential for this variety to become a new darling of specialty coffee – but this may take some time.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the Typica Mejorado variety.

Photo credits: World Coffee Events, Specialty Coffee Association, Aromas del Sur

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On top of this, the number of producers growing more exclusive arabica varieties (or even different species) has been increasing, too. In turn, the specialty coffee sector is becoming even more exciting.

However, with more producers taking a similar approach, is it becoming more difficult for them to differentiate their coffee?

To find out, I spoke with two coffee producers and a green coffee buyer. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on why more producers don’t market their coffee.

Keeping up with innovation in coffee processing

It’s often said that post-harvest processing practices are responsible for up to 60% of overall coffee quality. But not only that, processing methods have a huge impact on coffee flavour and mouthfeel.

In line with this, experimental processing methods have become immensely popular in specialty coffee. By tweaking and tightly controlling a range of variables, producers can create exciting, deeply complex flavours in their coffee. In some cases, they can even increase cup scores.

It’s then no wonder that producers – especially those who have the resources and right level of support – are trying out new processing methods. Some of these include carbonic maceration, lactic fermentation, and anaerobic fermentation, which are all quickly becoming more and more common in specialty coffee.

Jamie Jongkind is the European sales manager at Nordic Approach. He says innovation in processing methods is a natural progression of the specialty coffee market.

“Processing methods which were once thought to be novel are now the new baseline, which helps to drive innovation,” he tells me. “As long as the level of innovation is reasonable, roasters will keep buying these coffees. As a result, they push the industry to do better.”

Growing rare varieties

In recent years, another noticeable way that producers have started to differentiate their coffees is by growing rare and exclusive arabica varieties. Some of these include:

• Gesha – often considered the darling of specialty coffee
• Sidra – an unknown variety believed to have come from a breeding facility Ecuador
• Pink Bourbon – which won the 2023 World Barista Championship 
• Sudan Rume – used by 2015 World Barista Champion Sasa Sestic in his winning routine
• Java – an Ethiopian landrace variety with high quality potential
• Laurina – a naturally low-caf variety which won the 2018 World Brewers Cup

While it is certainly more difficult to successfully grow some of these varieties, there are benefits to doing so – including higher prices in some cases.

José Giraldo is a third-generation coffee producer and the founder of Café 1959 in Colombia – a farm which has been growing coffee for more than 50 years. 

He explains that in Colombia there has been somewhat of an evolution in the coffee sector. Increasingly, producers are focusing on growing rare varieties and carrying out novel processing techniques.

He says between the 1970s and 1990s, Colombia was mostly known for producing milder-tasting coffees such as Caturra and some Typica varieties.

“More and more Colombian producers are growing native Ethiopian varieties like Gesha and Wush Wush, other varieties like SL 28, Sidra, and Mokka, or even species like eugenioides,” José explains. “A growing number of producers are also using natural, anaerobic fermentation, or carbonic maceration processing methods.”

So is it becoming harder for producers to differentiate their coffees?

With more producers than ever before now implementing experimental processing methods and growing rarer varieties, is it becoming more difficult for them to stand out in the market? 

Jamie actually believes it’s becoming easier.

“With producers using more innovative processing techniques, it’s now more accessible for a wider range of producers to differentiate themselves by offering a bigger selection of coffees or by having more unique protocols which are more suitable to their terroir,” he says.

José agrees, saying that better access to the internet is helping producers to drive innovation on farms.

“Today, farmers have much more access to a lot of information and resources so they can discuss different varieties or processing methods with each other,” he says. 

However, that’s not to say producers don’t face challenges when it comes to differentiating their coffees.

“‘Trending’ coffees and processing methods change so fast – even between harvests – which makes it even more difficult to forecast what’s coming next,” José says. “I think this is driving producers to innovate and create novel processing methods or plant different varieties to stand out in a highly competitive market.”

Jorge Raul Rivera is a second-generation coffee producer at Finca Santa Rosa in El Salvador, which predominantly grows Pacamara.

“People are paying high prices for Gesha, so it’s a trendy specialty coffee variety,” he says. “People want what’s trendy.”

Is there growing pressure on farmers to innovate?

Continuous innovation is key to driving growth in the specialty coffee market. However, demand for more “exciting” coffees is undoubtedly putting an increasing amount of pressure on producers.

For instance, deciding to implement a new processing method or grow a different variety can involve serious risk that producers may need to absorb themselves. Farmers ultimately need to ensure they can find buyers for these new coffees. At the same time, they also may need to make some difficult choices when carrying out these new farming practices – as well as investing significant amounts of money upfront.

“This situation is sometimes more dangerous than pests or diseases,” José tells me. “It’s a huge investment in terms of money and time. And it’s not always guaranteed that producers will receive a premium price just because they grow this variety.”

Helping absorb risk

Jamie acknowledges there is growing pressure on producers to become more innovative. But, he believes roasters are also becoming more aware of how much work they are asking from producers.

“The hype about having new varieties every other year – which is largely driven by roasters – seems to have been replaced by a bigger emphasis on processing methods, which for the producer is much easier to handle,” he says.

Jamie explains that Nordic Approach follows certain procedures to ensure producers can sustainably carry out these processing methods. This begins by working closely with producers to understand their specific motivations, abilities, and skills, as well as the equipment and resources they already have access to.

Following this, Jamie adds that Nordic Approach helps producers to make sure experimental processing methods are controlled. However, he stresses it’s important to also clearly communicate that it’s not always guaranteed they can replicate results. Pre-contracting and pre-financing coffees can also help to ensure producers don’t bear the brunt of the financial risk.

Ultimately, trying new processing methods means producers must have a deep understanding of different market needs, as well as the willingness and ability to experiment with different variables.

José, meanwhile, says that scaling new experimental processing methods can be a huge risk, but the results are sometimes worth it.

“You need to try different things to get different results,” he says. “It can be difficult, but if you account for the responsibility of all the supply chain stakeholders, you can reduce the risk.”

Quality comes first

For any coffee business, standing out from competitors is vital – and this includes producers, too.

However, Jorge explains that farmers’ financial risks will increase more if they don’t focus on quality first and foremost.

“I don’t think farmers lose money if they don’t differentiate their coffee,” he says. “I think they lose money if they don’t strive for and prioritise quality.

“If you are able to produce coffee that stays fresher for longer and has desirable flavour notes then people are likely to pay more for that coffee,” he adds.

Is it possible to become even more experimental?

With so many innovative processing methods used in specialty coffee now, it’s important to ask just how much room there is for further growth and experimentation.

Jamie says that similar to the wine and tea industries, there is always space for more innovation.

“The coffee industry has never stopped developing, but previously the space for growth was smaller,” he tells me. “Now, there are influences from across the value chain, as well from other industries. I don’t think innovation in specialty coffee will ever stop.”

Jorge, however, thinks experimentation (especially with processing methods) should remain as natural and localised as possible. 

“We were talking to a microbiologist in Colombia. He carries out fermentation with local microbes on the coffee farm, which I believe is the right way to do things,” he says. “Some people use yeast and bacteria that comes from other parts of the world, which I think can create imbalance as nature takes its own course.”

Additionally, Jamie points out that we must keep social and environmental sustainability in mind when pushing for innovation in specialty coffee.

“We have the opportunity to not only demand the next ‘big thing’, but to simultaneously incorporate sustainability and ethics across the supply chain,” he tells me. “We want to make sure value is created out of respect for shared effort, dedication, and vision.”

In an ever-growing competitive market, it’s essential that producers stand out and showcase their highest-quality coffees.

But as the specialty coffee industry continues to diversify, and producers continue to use new processing methods and varieties, it’s important we keep the right approach in mind. Ultimately, there needs to be a balance between innovation and sustainability.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how producers can define sensory profiles for their coffee.

Photo credits: Zacharias Elias Abubeker, Jorge Raul Rivera

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At the 2023 WBC, meanwhile, several of the top six competitors chose to use lesser-known varieties – including winner Boram Um with Pink Bourbon and second runner-up Jack Simpson with Ombligon. 

Representing Hong Kong, fourth runner-up Dawn Chan also used a more exclusive variety called Typica Mejorado. Dawn sourced the coffee from Finca Soledad in Ecuador. 

Not much is known about the origins of Typica Mejorado, nor its market potential. To learn more about this variety, I spoke with José Pepe Jijón, the owner of Finca Soledad. Read on for more of his insight.

You may also like our article on Ombligon coffee & whether it could become more popular.

Where does Typica Mejorado come from?

Similar to the Sidra variety, it’s believed Typica Mejorado (also referred to as Typica Mejorada) originated from a Nestlé breeding facility in the Pichincha province of Ecuador.

Pepe Jijón is a first generation coffee farmer. At Finca Soledad, he grows Sidra and Gesha, as well as Typica Mejorado.

According to what many coffee professionals believe, he tells me researchers at the Pichincha breeding lab imported different coffee seeds (mainly sourced from Ethiopia) to develop new F1 hybrid varieties which produced both high yields and good cup quality.

Following this, it’s said that Don Olger Rogel – who was a field technician working at the lab at the time – identified two seeds which resulted in the most desirable sensory profiles. He named them Sidra and Typica Mejorado, and helped to disseminate seeds to farms in Ecuador.

“Don Olger provided our co-op with the first Typica Mejorado seeds in Ecuador,” Pepe says. “I was lucky enough to plant them on my farm in 2010.”

Although it’s certainly similar in name to Typica, Typica Mejorado is not related to this variety. It’s likely to have been given this name as its sensory profile is very similar to Typica, but often with more complex and expressive flavour notes. 

Where is Typica Mejorado grown?

While Typica Mejorado is mainly produced in Ecuador, the variety is also grown in Costa Rica and Colombia. The plants are typically tall, but produce low yields. 

Pepe explains the plants look very similar to Gesha.

“You wouldn’t be able to tell the difference if you had a Typica Mejorado plant next to a Gesha plant,” he says.

The seeds (or beans) of Typica Mejorado plants, however, are not all the same size. Some tend to be longer (similar to Gesha), while others are much smaller. Pepe explains this is because altitude and terroir have a big impact on how Typica Mejorado plants develop and grow.

Some of the oldest Typica Mejorado plants are found in Ecuador, including at Finca La Soledad. 

“I still have some of the mother trees which I continue to take seeds from because they have adapted so well to the terroir,” Pepe says. “However, just like Gesha and heirloom varieties, Typica Mejorado is very susceptible to environmental changes, such as excessive rain and exposure to sunlight. 

“The plants tend to also have a poor root system, similar to Gesha again,” he adds. “But after growing Typica Mejorado for 13 years, the variety has evolved to become more resistant to certain pests and diseases.”

Common sensory profiles

Generally speaking, Typica Mejorado has a very interesting and unique flavour profile. In fact, some coffee professionals say they even prefer it to Gesha.

“The variety has very clean citric and red fruit notes, and is very similar to Gesha in terms of flavour,” Pepe says. “You can really play around with this coffee and use different processing techniques, and allow it to really shine.”

At the 2023 WBC, Dawn Chan of Wanwan Coffee Roasters (who placed fifth) used Typica Mejorado from Finca Soledad. During his routine, Dawn said he chose the variety because it was a new sensory experience for him, and also allowed him to improve his brewing skills. 

The specific coffee Dawn used was Typica Mejorado tyoxidator. This is named after a processing technique used at Finca Soledad which is similar to the washed method.

“The coffee tastes amazingly sweet, which is why people love it,” Pepe explains. “Essentially, we aerobically ferment the cherries in open containers and then depulp them. Following this, we anaerobically ferment the coffee in the mucilage to create a very sweet coffee.”

Lastly, the coffee is washed and then dried.

Pepe points out it’s important to not submerge the cherries in water at the beginning of the tyoxidator processing method.

“We don’t wash the cherries because I think it’s invasive to the flavours in the coffee,” he tells me. “Instead, we want all the yeasts and natural bacteria in the fermentation tank to influence the flavours in the coffee.”

When it comes to roasting, Pepe says Typica Mejorado doesn’t need a specific roast profile. He suggests tweaking roast development according to the different sizes and densities of the beans.

Is there a wider market for Typica Mejorado?

The quality potential for Typica Mejorado is undeniable. But could we start to see it more often in specialty coffee shops?

Given that it produces such low yields, it’s unlikely that Typica Mejorado will appear on more coffee shops menus in the near future. However, as well as being used at the 2023 WBC, the variety also placed first, third, and fourth at the 2021 Cup of Excellence competition.

“People around the world are asking for Typica Mejorado seeds,” Pepe says. “I think it’s a result of the coffee’s beautiful flavour profile and the hard work of farmers in Ecuador who have been able to showcase what these coffees can do.”

Pepe tells me that Dawn’s routine at the 2023 WBC is not only highlighting Typica Mejorado, but also the quality potential of Ecuadorian coffee. He explains this is encouraging a new generation of young people to work in coffee production.

“My son is 18, and five or six years ago, he didn’t want to work in coffee because he saw how I was struggling,” Pepe says. “But now that I’m receiving support from the international specialty coffee community and improving the marketing of my coffee, my son is helping me on the farm. 

“I’m not sure that he will work in the coffee sector in the long term, but he is certainly falling in love with coffee thanks to Typica Mejorado and Sidra,” he adds. 

A similar path to Gesha?

As for its market potential in the future, Pepe believes Typica Mejorado could become as popular as Sidra. This variety has become more well known following 2022 World Barista Champion Anthony Douglas using it in his winning routine, with seemingly more and more specialty coffee shops serving it.

Moreover, Pepe thinks Typica Mejorado may follow a similar path to Gesha.

“Gesha wasn’t so popular when it was grown in Ethiopia or Costa Rica, but it became very famous when produced in Panama,” he says. “It took 20 to 25 years for producers to start showcasing more of its highly floral characteristics.

“I think Typica Mejorado and Sidra are on the same path,” he adds. “We haven’t yet discovered the full potential of Typica Mejorada and Sidra because we’ve only been growing them for ten years, but they are already showing great promise.”

Like with many other more exclusive varieties, excitement about Typica Mejorado is growing in specialty coffee. With such high quality cup potential, it’s certainly a coffee we should pay attention to.

However, with smaller yields and plants which grow different-sized beans, it’s unlikely that producers in Ecuador and beyond will be able to sustainably scale production any time soon.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on Sidra coffee.

Photo credits: Jose Pepe Jijon, Specialty Coffee Association

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Looking at these coffees in particular, one of the most noticeable trends is that many are sourced from Colombia. Although the country certainly has a reputation for producing high-quality coffee, it appears that a small but growing number of Colombian farmers are selling rarer and lesser known varieties and species – which many WBC competitors are using in their performances.

Additionally, many of the Geshas used on the WBC stage over the past few years were grown in Colombia, too. So why have Colombian coffees become so popular in competitions? And is this trend likely to continue in the future?

To find out, I spoke with Elias Bayter at Forest Coffee, Maria Alejandra Escobar Huertas at Café Granja La Esperanza, and 2023 World Barista Championship runner-up Daniele Ricci. Read on to learn what they had to say.

You may also like our article on whether coffee competitions are moving away from Gesha.

Which coffees does Colombia grow?

According to the International Coffee Organisation, Colombia is the world’s third-largest producing country, as well as the largest producer of arabica. It’s estimated more than 550,000 smallholder families grow coffee across 17 different regions and departments in the country.

Colombia is also known for producing consistently high-quality and well-balanced arabica varieties. The country’s optimal growing temperatures, high altitudes, plentiful access to water, and rich volcanic soil result in ideal conditions for cultivating excellent coffee.

Common arabica varieties grown in Colombia include:

• Typica – one of the most genetically and culturally important arabica varieties in the world
• Bourbon – produces excellent cup quality when grown at high altitudes
• Caturra – a natural mutation of Bourbon, with good yield and cup quality potential
• Castillo – most common arabica variety in Colombia, developed for its resistance to leaf rust (or la roya)

As well as producing high-quality varieties, a growing number of Colombian coffee farmers have started to use more experimental processing methods to enhance sensory profiles even further.

Why are more World Barista Championship competitors using Colombian coffees?

At such prestigious events like the World Barista Championship, coffee professionals have long been using some of the most exclusive, top-scoring arabica varieties to showcase their unique and desirable flavour profiles. However, in recent years, it seems that more and more competitors have chosen Colombian coffees for their routines.

Elias Bayter is the co-owner of El Vergel Estates in Tolima, Colombia. He is also a managing partner and processing director at Forest Coffee – a Colombian specialty coffee exporter. 

“I think a lot of WBC competitors are now using Colombian coffees because our approach to processing methods has evolved in many ways,” he says. “What’s more, there is so much diversity in terms of varieties, climate, and topography – positioning Colombia as a top producer of high-quality coffee.”

When have we seen Colombian coffees on the WBC stage?

Looking at World Barista Championships over the past few years, there have been many notable competitors who used Colombian coffees. Some of these include:

• Italian barista Daniele Ricci, who placed second at the 2023 WBC. Daniele used a blend of Gesha and Caturra from Finca Milan
• Australia’s Jack Simpson, who placed third at the 2023 WBC. Jack used Ombligon – a relatively unknown arabica variety – from Finca El Diviso
• This year’s US Barista Champion Isaiah Sheese, who used Pink Bourbon sourced from Finca Bella Vista 
• The 2022 World Barista Champion Anthony Douglas, who used Sidra also from Finca El Diviso
• The first-ever Colombian to win the WBC, 2021 Champion Diego Campos, who used Coffeea eugenioides – a “forgotten” coffee species from Inmaculada Coffee Farms, tipped as the new darling of specialty coffee
  • Several other competitors used Colombian eugenioides at the 2021 WBC, including runner-up Andrea Allen and Australia’s Hugh Kelly, who placed third

Maria Alejandra Escobar Huertas is the Marketing Director at Café Granja La Esperanza – a prominent coffee farm in Colombia. Like Elias, she also believes that new processing techniques are driving more WBC competitors to use Colombian coffees. 

“Not only are new varieties helping to increase the popularity of Colombian coffees, innovation in post-harvest processing is also key,” she says.

Has Colombia started growing more high-end varieties?

Although Colombia is already known for producing high-quality varieties like Castillo, Typica, Bourbon, and Caturra, a seemingly growing number of more exclusive and high-end coffees have been recently emerging from the country.

Along with Gesha – which Colombia is starting to grow more of – other rare varieties and species produced in Colombia include:

• Sidra – developed using native Ethiopian varieties and Bourbon
• Pink Bourbon – a hybrid between yellow Bourbon and red Bourbon
• Ombligon
• Eugenioides
• Java – a selection from an Ethiopian landrace population called Abysinia first introduced to Latin America in the early 1990s
• Pacamara – originated from a cross between Pacas and Maragogype, and known for its large bean size
• Sudan Rume – rare Bourbon variety, most notably used by 2015 World Barista Champion Sasa Sestic

“Some Colombian producers start by planting Gesha and Pink Bourbon as new varieties on their farms,” Elias says. “There are also many natural mutations, which can quickly become part of the up-and-coming varieties because they’re more unique.”

Daniele Ricci is a barista at MAME Coffee in Zurich, Switzerland. 

“I have tasted many varieties from Colombia, and the standard of quality is amazing,” he tells me. “I have had the opportunity to try Pink Bourbon, Sidra, Mokka, Sudan Rume, and of course Gesha and Caturra – which I used in my 2023 WBC routine.”

“Famous” coffee producers

In addition to varieties with excellent cup potential and innovative processing methods, Colombia is home to some of the most well-known farms and estates in specialty coffee. Many WBC competitors have sourced coffees from these farms – helping to establish their reputations even further.

“A coffee from La Palma y El Tucan won the 2019 WBC, while Finca Los Nubes won in 2021, and El Diviso in 2022,” Daniele says. “I have used coffees from Cafè Granja La Esperanza in three different national competitions, too – I find their coffees to taste incredible.”

Elias tells me the hard work and dedication of Colombian coffee producers has helped them to become more acknowledged in the global specialty coffee sector.

“I think these farms are well-known because they focus on developing higher-quality coffees using innovative processing methods and growing new varieties,” he explains. “It’s a lot of hard work, but the competitions are a way for farmers to showcase their coffees.”

Could we see this trend continue in the coming years?

With innovation showing no signs of slowing down in Colombia’s specialty coffee sector, it’s safe to assume many World Barista Championship competitors will continue to use Colombian coffees.

“Colombia grows excellent coffees even without using experimental processing or fermentation techniques,” Daniele says. “But new and emerging trends also influence competitors, as well as any rule changes made in the year they will be competing.

“Also, farmers in Colombia are implementing so many new harvesting and processing techniques that it will take years for us to taste the results,” he adds.

Elias agrees, saying: “I think a new trend that will become more popular is farms developing their own varieties by planting seeds from the same tree for five generations. This is so it becomes a natural mutation which is unique to the farm.

“There are so many producers in Colombia – ranging from small to large – who are approaching processing methods in a really innovative way,” he adds. “This gives WBC competitors who use these coffees more of an edge.”

With such a prominent spotlight on Colombia, more and more groundbreaking industry events are taking place in the country, such as PRF Colombia, which will be held on 14 and 15 September 2023 at the Plaza Mayor venue in Medellín. In turn, Colombia’s reputation as a leading producer of high-quality arabica will only continue to grow.

Maria, meanwhile, says that Colombia is starting to grow more “boutique” coffees similar to Panama and El Salvador – further solidifying its place as a popular origin for WBC competitors. 

“Thanks to the country’s rich history of coffee production – as well as the many growing regions – we will continue to innovate and evolve,” she tells me.

Other prominent countries at the WBC

Aside from Colombia, Panama has been a favourite among World Barista Championship competitors for some time now. Producing some of the finest Geshas in the world, Panamanian coffees are prized for their delicate and complex flavour profiles – and thereby perform well on the WBC stage.

But are there any producing countries which we could potentially see more of at the World Barista Championship?

“Some Central and South American countries, like Guatemala and Ecuador, produce excellent quality coffees,” Maria says.

Daniele, meanwhile, tells me: “Brazil will definitely prove that it’s not just about quantity, and some Asia-Pacific producing countries may also become more popular.”

Colombia certainly has potential to remain a firm favourite among World Barista Championship competitors – especially with so many new and exciting arabica varieties and processing methods.

However, at the same time, we also need to pay attention to other producing countries in Latin America and beyond – and see if they can build a similar reputation to Colombia, too.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on the PRF Colombia final-line up.

Photo credits: Specialty Coffee Association, Café Granja La Esperanza

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One example is the shape of the drinking vessel. Findings from a 2018 research paper state the shape of the cup significantly affects our sensory perception of specialty coffee. This has led some coffee shops, and even some World Barista Championship competitors, to serve certain coffees in different-shaped cups.

Similar research has long been applied and used in the wine industry, where sommeliers and bartenders pair certain wines with different-shaped glasses to heighten the sensory experience. 

Ultimately, using the right glass helps to improve and complement a wine’s flavour profile. So could serving coffee in a wine glass also change its flavours and aromas – and potentially enhance the experience, too?

To find out, I spoke to Marek Krupa, co-founder and CFO of Kruve, and Rafael Silva, owner of Sicafé in El Salvador. Read on for more of their insight.

You may also like our article on whether filter basket shape can affect the flavour of coffee.

How do we perceive flavour & aroma?

To understand the flavour profile of coffee, we first need to break down what taste, aroma, and flavour actually mean. Some broad definitions include:

• Taste (or gustation): the sensation of perceiving flavour in the mouth and throat when eating or drinking. There are five basic tastes which our taste buds perceive: salty, bitter, sweet, sour, and umami
• Aroma: a noticeable and distinctive smell caused by a complex mixture of volatile compounds
• Flavour: the sensory perception of both taste and aroma

We often talk about how post-harvesting methods, processing techniques, roast profiles, brewing methods, brew temperature, and water quality impact a coffee’s flavours and aromas. Although all of these factors certainly contribute to flavour profile, there are also a number of other considerations to account for, such as the shape of your drinking vessel.

Marek explains how Kruve designed its EQ range of glassware specifically to enhance the sensory experience of drinking coffee.

“A drinking vessel has a significant impact on perception of flavour and aroma because it changes the way the coffee smells and tastes, as well as how you drink coffee,” he says. “What’s more, our senses, feelings, and emotions also impact how we experience coffee.”

How do different-shaped drinking vessels affect coffee flavour and mouthfeel?

Most specialty coffee shops serve drinks in ceramic cups or wide-mouth, thick-rimmed glasses. With wine, however, most sommeliers or bartenders use stemware glasses which consist of three parts: the bowl, stem, and foot.

According to world-renowned sommelier Aldo Sohm, the type and shape of a wine glass has a huge impact on sensory perception.

In his book Wine Simple, Sohm explains that a well-designed wine glass helps concentrate the aromas which are specific to a certain type of wine. This means the aromatic compounds “hit” your nose and tongue in the right way, which helps to elevate the flavours. 

In Wine Simple, Sohm explains the best wine glasses should be handmade with a very thin and smooth rim. This is so the wine “hits” the tip of the tongue, which is where we taste sweetness. 

Moreover, in his book, Sohm further explains even small differences in shape and design can change how we perceive flavour. For instance, a small ridge at the lip of the glass can create a slight bubble. This means the wine “hits” further back on your tongue where we taste bitterness, and ultimately leads to a less enjoyable sensory experience.

In line with this, it’s common for bartenders and sommeliers to serve certain wines in specific glasses, so that the shape and size will enhance the aromas and flavours. Glasses with smaller bowls are usually paired with white wines, while bigger glasses with wider openings are used for light-bodied red wines, for example.

Similarly, in a 2015 study, Japanese researchers used a specialist camera to record how different-shaped glasses affect the density and position of vapours at the rim when drinking wine. These vapours carry aromatic compounds into your nose, and are also responsible for the vast majority of flavours in wine.

So what about coffee?

Like wine, Marek tells me that drinking vessel shape and design have similar effects on coffee.

“We designed our glasses to have a thin single-walled rim so coffee flows onto your tongue, similar to a wine glass,” he says. “Our filter coffee and espresso glasses have ample headspace to capture the aromas.

“This is critical to enhancing the sensory experience because if you can capture and funnel aromas into the olfactory system, you can increase taste,” he adds.

Rafael explains that he likes to serve filter coffee in wine glasses at Sicafé – which is a farm, miller, and exporter in El Salvador.

“Drinking coffee from a wine glass offers a very different and unique experience,” he says. “Coffees can be better appreciated in a wine glass because the shape of the glass concentrates the aromas and flavours.”

What about different materials?

Along with the shape and design of a drinking vessel, the material is also important. Some materials are more susceptible to heat loss than others, while others can absorb or leach flavours and aromas into the brewed coffee. In both cases, the flavours and aromas in the coffee will change.

Some examples are:

• Plastic – this material has the best heat retention, but can absorb or add flavours and aromas
• Ceramic – good heat retention and doesn’t absorb or impart any flavours and aromas
• Metal – poor heat retention and can impart or remove flavours and aromas

Glass, meanwhile, is a non-porous material. This means it doesn’t interfere with the flavours and aromas of coffee. Moreover, as visuals are an important part of the overall sensory experience, many people enjoy being able to see their filter coffee through the glass while drinking.

Silva says this is one of the main reasons why he prefers using wine glasses.

“The wine glasses we use provide a better sensory experience because they maintain beverage temperature, so the flavours remain bright,” he explains. “Ceramic is better at conserving beverage temperature, but usually the shape of ceramic drinking vessels are wide at the top, which means more aromatic compounds evaporate more quickly.

“This doesn’t allow you to appreciate coffee as you would drinking from a wine glass,” he adds.

Should coffee shops use wine glasses for certain coffees?

Although there are several benefits to serving and drinking coffee from a wine glass, not many coffee shops decide to do this.

Arguably one of the main reasons is that wine glasses break easily. In a busy coffee shop, this could be a major health and safety hazard. Similarly, because filter coffee is brewed at high temperatures, most wine glasses (unless they are tempered) would break when coffee is poured into them. This means baristas would have to wait until the coffee had reached a lower temperature before serving – which would not only slow down service, but also stop the customer from experiencing the full spectrum of a coffee’s flavours and aromas.

Rafael, however, says that wine glasses could be an option for some specialty coffee shops to offer a unique experience.

“It would allow less experienced customers to appreciate specialty coffee even more,” he tells me. “Flavours and aromas can be more easily perceived in wine glasses than in mugs or cups.”

For instance, wine glasses could be used for light roast single origin coffees once cooled to a certain temperature.

What about using different-shaped cups?

Compared to using wine glasses, serving coffee in different-shaped cups is a more feasible option for most coffee shops.

In fact, prominent Norwegian roaster Tim Wendelboe has been serving specific kinds of coffee in different-shaped ceramic cups for some time now. This is largely based on research that aroma and sweetness are more perceivable when drinking from round or bulbous-shaped vessels. 

We have also seen World Barista Championship competitors make similar decisions. The 2023 WBC runner-up Daniele Ricci, for example, used specific cups for his espresso. These were designed to have a high back and low front so that the judges could fully assess the coffee’s aromatic compounds.

Marek explains how using different-shaped cups can benefit coffee shops.

“Like red wine, coffee also contains tannins which can make it taste astringent,” he says. “To avoid this in the wine industry, red wine glasses have a wide surface area, which increases the oxidation of the wine. 

“As wine (and coffee) oxidises, the tannins break down, which makes it taste sweeter,” he adds. “Our Excite glasses have double the surface area than the Inspire glasses, so the same coffee will taste sweeter when drinking from the former.”

Ultimately, there are clear benefits to serving coffee in a wine glass. The shape and design of these vessels can help to enhance flavour and aroma, and provide a whole new sensory experience to consumers.

At the same time, however, wine glasses aren’t practical for most coffee shops. In light of this, using different-shaped cups for certain coffees could offer a similar experience – and help to elevate your coffee.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on how different materials affect the flavour of coffee.

Photo credits: Dorothee Brand, Marek Krupa

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The post Does drinking from a wine glass change the flavour of specialty coffee? appeared first on Perfect Daily Grind.

The 2023 World Barista Championship was no exception to this trend, with many of the six finalists using unique coffees in their routines. For example, Australia’s Jack Simpson (who placed third) used Ombligon for his espresso, milk, and signature beverage courses. 

Ombligon is a relatively unknown arabica variety grown in Colombia, but interest in this coffee is certainly growing following this year’s WBC. In line with this, is there potential for the market for Ombligon to grow in the coming years?

To find out, I spoke to Jack Simpson and Juan Pablo Campos. Read on to find out what they had to say.

You may also like our article on Sidra coffee.

What is Ombligon and where does it come from?

Like many other rare arabica varieties, the exact origins of Ombligon are unknown. Currently, Ombligon only grows in Huila, Colombia – a prominent producing region in the south west of the country.

The name “Ombligon” – which translates from Spanish to English as “belly button” – comes from this variety’s unique shape.

Juan Pablo Campos is a founding partner of Lohas Beans, a specialty coffee exporter in Colombia. Lohas Beans works closely with Nestor Lasso at Finca El Diviso – a well known Colombian coffee producer who grows several different unique arabica varieties, including Ombligon.

Juan explains that he and other coffee professionals believe Ombligon is related to an Ethiopian heirloom variety. He adds that because the variety is a natural mutation, it also shares similar traits to other native Colombian coffee varieties.

“Ombligon has similar characteristics to Caturra, such as wide leaves, cherries which grow close together, branches which grow vertically, and high yields,” he tells me. “However, many Colombian coffee professionals agree that Ombligon could be a natural mutation of other varieties like Pacamara, Bourbon, or even Castillo – mostly because of the high yield potential and resistance to coffee leaf rust.”

Producers in Huila, Colombia grow Ombligon at different altitudes, but between 1,600 and 1,800 m.a.s.l. tends to work best.

Jack Simpson is the Head of Quality Control & Sales at Axil Coffee Roasters in Melbourne, Australia. He is also the 2023 Australian Barista Champion. He tells me he first came across Ombligon a few months before the 2023 WBC while sampling coffees from Finca El Divisio. 

“I was intrigued,” he says. “I had never heard of this variety before and it had a very unique flavour profile.”

Growing and processing the variety

Juan explains that Ombligon isn’t particularly challenging to grow. This is mostly because it produces high yields and is fairly resilient to certain diseases – particularly coffee leaf rust (or la roya).

However, there are still important considerations to factor in when growing Ombligon.

“It produces rather large beans, so producers who aren’t used to this could end up breaking or chipping some of them when using traditional depulpers for washed processing methods,” Juan says. “To avoid this, you need to properly adjust depulpers to accommodate the larger beans.

“Ombligon is also denser than other varieties, with less ‘floaters’ or non-developed beans present in floatation tanks,” he adds.

When it comes to processing methods for Ombligon, there has been much innovation with natural fermentation techniques. Colombian producer Nestor Lasso has been pivotal in developing these methods, which have led to some exciting results.

Juan explains the process includes the following steps:

• After careful harvesting, mainly overripe Ombligon cherries (which have Brix levels ranging from 24°Bx to 26°Bx) are selected for processing
• The cherries are placed in bags and left to oxidise for 48 hours. This is followed by a 12-hour resting period, and then another 60-hour oxidation stage
• After 60 hours, the bags of cherries are left open to increase the temperature inside of them
• The cherries are then washed in 32°C (89.6°F) water to reduce the temperature difference between the water and inside the cherries
• Ombligon cherries are then placed into sealed plastic tanks to undergo anaerobic fermentation
• The cherries are washed in 60°C (140°F) water to stop the fermentation process, and are then dried using specialist dehumidifying equipment

Processing Ombligon for competitions

Juan tells me the processing techniques for Ombligon are much stricter and more precise when used for competitions.

“We process Ombligon cherries in stainless steel tanks in 200kg batches,” he says. “This means the variables are more controlled and are on a smaller scale, which helps to enhance the characteristics that Nestor wants to highlight for competitors who use this coffee.”

What does it taste like?

Jack explains that there were several reasons why he chose Ombligon for his 2023 World Barista Championship routine.

“This coffee is very unique. It’s complex, but it also has definable flavours and characteristics, which I think is one of the most important elements to consider when choosing a coffee for competitions.

“Using a variety that is new and interesting always excites me, but this year, Ombligon also fit so well into my routine,” he adds. “I spent a lot of time learning about Nestor’s innovative approach to fermentation, so his processing technique combined with the complexity of this coffee was a perfect choice.”

Many coffee professionals report tasting notes of raspberry, guava jam, mango, and white chocolate. Jack, meanwhile, tells me he has tasted red cherry, blood plum (a type of cherry plum), blood orange, watermelon, yellow peach, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and toffee. 

During his 2023 WBC milk beverage course, Jack also mentioned notes of boysenberry ice cream and malted chocolate.

“The mouthfeel is incredible – it’s very silky and thick, and it coats the mouth,” he says. “It also has a long-lasting sweet finish, which is one of the reasons why I chose this coffee.”

Roasting Ombligon

To highlight all of Ombligon’s best qualities, finding the right roast profile is essential.

Jack explains how he spent a lot of time adjusting the roast profile. He found that the coffee works well as both espresso and filter.

“For espresso, I found that we needed to take a more gentle approach, as well as using a longer development time than usual, to balance the acidity,” he says “The Agtron readings were quite low, [which indicates a darker roast profile], but this made for a more balanced, sweet espresso.

“When prepared as espresso, I tasted more flavours of stone fruit, citrus, and chocolate,” he adds. “Meanwhile when roasted for filter, there were more flavours of cherry and a more vibrant acidity.”

Could Ombligon become more popular?

Given its potential for producing high yields and resilience to certain diseases, it seems there is some potential for Ombligon production to scale in the coming years. Moreover, there is a spotlight on this variety following the 2023 World Barista Championship – and this is likely to continue for some time.

Additionally, when using the right processing methods, Ombligon has produced some excellent flavour profiles that many coffee professionals and enthusiasts would certainly be interested to try.

However, for many producers, there is an obvious level of risk when experimenting with growing and processing new varieties. In order for more farmers to grow Ombligon, they would need the right level of support and access to resources.

“If it’s possible for more producers to grow Ombligon, I would love to see more of it in specialty coffee,” Jack says. “Nestor did an amazing job with the coffee I used, so it will be exciting to see what the future holds for Ombligon.”

With its potential to produce incredible results in the cup, demand for Ombligon is likely to increase over the next few years – albeit at a very slow and steady pace. As this variety is currently only grown in Huila, Colombia, the ability to scale production is somewhat limited.

If we want to see Ombligon in more coffee shops, more producers would have to start growing this variety. For this to happen, they would need plenty of support and access to the right resources.

Enjoyed this? Then read our article on what happened at the 2023 World Barista Championship.

Photo credits: Specialty Coffee Association, Juan Pablo Campos, Lohas Beans

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